atlast&co , butcher products , timeworn clothing

[MJF9]

These landed recently... enjoying a bit of Timeworn / At Last / Butcher Products again

[MJF9]

Measurements crop up quite a bit... this is for the Lot 161 after a 30C wash, hang dry and a little wear

I'll post a comparison between 161, 162 and 147 when I get a chance

[holden7]

Hi guys, new here. In your opinion, is this jacket worth $450?

 

 

[CSL]

1 hour ago, holden7 said:

Hi guys, new here. In your opinion, is this jacket worth $450?

I'm not as familiar with the brand as many here but Atlast&co are well respected and on a par with the best Japanese heritage brands.
(Assuming the item is brand new) I would say a jacket of that type made by Freewheelers, Real McCoys, Buzz Ricksons, etc would cost a similar amount.

If it's used, slightly different scenario = how much you want it, how flexible the seller is on the price, etc.
 

Edited January 11 by CSL

[Alec Leamas]

@holden7 I would agree with the above.

FWIW, this jacket will likely never be made again - it was a seasonal piece from a few years ago (I don't know the exact year).

Is this the one currently on ebay? There is one for sale by a seller I have bought a few things from - items have always been in great condition.

[Alec Leamas]

12 hours ago, MJF9 said:

Measurements crop up quite a bit... this is for the Lot 161 after a 30C wash, hang dry and a little wear

I'll post a comparison between 161, 162 and 147 when I get a chance

The thigh measurements are insane! Looks like I might have to have a pair!!

[holden7]

2 hours ago, CSL said:

I'm not as familiar with the brand as many here but Atlast&co are well respected and on a par with the best Japanese heritage brands.
(Assuming the item is brand new) I would say a jacket of that type made by Freewheelers, Real McCoys, Buzz Ricksons, etc would cost a similar amount.

If it's used, slightly different scenario = how much you want it, how flexible the seller is on the price, etc.
 

Yep, used, and the seller doesn't negotiate at all

 

13 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

@holden7 I would agree with the above.

FWIW, this jacket will likely never be made again - it was a seasonal piece from a few years ago (I don't know the exact year).

Is this the one currently on ebay? There is one for sale by a seller I have bought a few things from - items have always been in great condition.

I have seen this eBay listing, but alas, no, it is not my size. I found it on Buyee. It seems that this jacket was released in 2015

[okimoto]

@holden7 was this the size 36? It’s a great looking jacket. Shame it’s not in your size. There is a size 38 in the white plaid version available as well as a size 42 in the red plaid, both around the same price or higher. Looking through past sales, the wool A2 jackets normally go for around the price you mentioned

[Lorcan]

Same model plaid jacket in a 40 sold for 62,000yen on mercari a while back, sometimes I look on there to try and gauge what things are actually selling for https://jp.mercari.com/item/m80766089983 as you can select sold out listings as a search parameter on there.

[holden7]

24 minutes ago, okimoto said:

@holden7 was this the size 36? It’s a great looking jacket. Shame it’s not in your size. There is a size 38 in the white plaid version available as well as a size 42 in the red plaid, both around the same price or higher. Looking through past sales, the wool A2 jackets normally go for around the price you mentioned

Yep, I am probably size 36 and unfortunately this is the only listing available at the moment

16 minutes ago, Lorcan said:

Same model plaid jacket in a 40 sold for 62,000yen on mercari a while back, sometimes I look on there to try and gauge what things are actually selling for https://jp.mercari.com/item/m80766089983 as you can select sold out listings as a search parameter on there.

Didn't know that! With the fees and shipping to my country the jacket will cost me around $550. Pretty expensive...

[Double 0 Soul]

I wouldn't pay anything like that price.. the pattern matching looks like dog shit!

This one looks good..

..this one is shockingly bad.. Walmart-esque

Maybe do an internship at SunSurf

[holden7]

17 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

I wouldn't pay anything like that price.. the pattern matching looks like dog shit!

This one looks good..

..this one is shockingly bad.. Walmart-esque

Maybe do an internship at SunSurf

Some issues with quality control, I guess...? Also, do you mean that the pattern matching looks bad on the jacket that I attached too? Here is the back

 

[Double 0 Soul]

7 hours ago, holden7 said:

Hi guys, new here. In your opinion, is this jacket worth $450?

 

 

 

2 minutes ago, holden7 said:

Some issues with quality control, I guess...? Also, do you mean that the pattern matching looks bad on the jacket that I attached too? Here is the back

Tha back is better than the one i posted above but looking at the pocket flaps^

The right hand is attatched perfectly (so they are capable of doing it) but the left hand isn't

It's a very basic thing to get right, if you can't then don't charge me over the odds for a poorly constructed garment.. even the sections between the knitten hem are offset on one side and to add insult to injury.. they've got the pattern upside down

I'd hate the see the wallpaper in their house

[Double 0 Soul]

..so these pieces of material need flipping through 180°

to get the chevrons to line up

[ATWM]

Just me, but you asked for opinions. I wouldn’t. 

[julian-wolf]

^ Yep. “Worth” is a tricky thing to ask opinions on. Only you can say what it’s worth to you. To me, that looks worth maybe $50.

[holden7]

You convinced me. Will be waiting for a better price and, as Double 0 Soul  pointed out, better construction, lol

Now to the corduroy jacket... does anyone own it? Seller asks $750, it is in a mint condition. Really like the color

 

[Alec Leamas]

2 hours ago, holden7 said:

You convinced me. Will be waiting for a better price and, as Double 0 Soul  pointed out, better construction, lol

Now to the corduroy jacket... does anyone own it? Seller asks $750, it is in a mint condition. Really like the color

 

I love this one. I personally would not stretch to $750 though.

 

I have a similar one by Tenderloin in a size S though...if you're interested in this style!

(it would be a LOT less than $750)

Edited January 11 by Alec Leamas

[l13902733261]

11 hours ago, holden7 said:

Seller asks $750

The tag price was 98000 JPY

[holden7]

3 hours ago, l13902733261 said:

The tag price was 98000 JPY

Lol, I see. Thanks!

[holden7]

By the way, the first item that I really liked from them was their plaid wool jacket. I learned that it was long sold out and even used ones are being sold for +$400. Then I learned that Militora did a reproduction and decided to get it instead. Didn't wear it long enough yet, but the quality seems to be good enough. 90% wool, 10% nylon (not all wool like TWC) and 100% ribbed cuffs. Just sharing my experience for anyone interested. However, if I find the TWC original version for a good price, then I will probably get it too

[Double 0 Soul]

It look 100x better made than the first one you posted 👍

[Lorcan]

There’s also Aero if you want red/black plaid in that style https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/mens/waterfront/mto088

Marlon’s had pretty iffy pattern matching!

[MJF9]

Aha so is this the jacket equivalent of Connor's jeans wonky stitching?!! 

@holden7 great value then mate! Costs will rise for this kind of gear 😁

 

[Double 0 Soul]

No not at all! .. the AtLast Buffalo jacket is just a very poorly made garment.. folks skilled in the trade will take pride in making garments, matching patterns ..ect while less skilled folks just throw them together for a pay check.

It you look at both versions posted, one has the pattern the correct way around while the other has the pattern the wrong way around.. if they were trying to replicate a period detail the pattern would be either the right or the wrong way for both..  they obviously didn't know or even care.

Ok Marlon's jacket isn't the best but that doesn't make the AtLast jacket acceptable.. for instance, if i'd paid a carpenter to make me a bookshelf and it was all wonky.. i'd be pretty fucking annoyed about it.. if you showed me a picture of Marlon Brando stood next to a wonky bookshelf.. i'd still be pretty fucking annoyed about it. 

Are we to think Marlon's stamp of approval makes poorly made garments ok?.. who even says Marlon cared that his pattern didn't match.. i'm sure he didn't pay a Japanese clothing company who're supposed to be meticulous in such things $450 for it.. it could've been cheap af for all we know.. Lee Marvin could have bitten the pocket flap off in a barroom brawl.. Vivien Leigh might have stitched it back on after a few Highballs..

[ATWM]

I get the attention to detail, the perfection of craft in deciding where value is in a garment. Speaking for myself only, that’s really only half the story. Some missed details really just don’t matter in any functional way, and don’t negatively impact aesthetics (depending on what aesthetics are appreciated). I wouldn’t buy these jackets because I just don’t like them, and I’m just not much a fan of what I’ve seen from TWC. Even their take on more widely available heritage patterns, I prefer the others more. I wouldn’t buy them for $4.50 let alone $450. Pattern matched or not. Maybe that would change if I got to try something on but that won’t happen.

It makes sense to me given your particular work that you’d be so finely attuned to such things, but since I got interested in clothes in a deeper way I can’t say I’ve been blown away by the detail differences when it comes to functional quality. The Japan made stuff is, by and large, more nicely finished. But it isn’t, I would say (with some exceptions) a huge variation in finishing quality from a lot of older cheaper stuff that I’d had - at least in the aggregate. I’ve come across some poorly made things for sure, but as a whole - I find the value added for me is more in fabrics, materials and patterns as opposed to assembly.

One example, a few months ago I purchased a boiled wool fleece jacket from de Bonne Facture, who pride themselves in making things in small ateliers in France. The label on the inside of the jacket is upside down! I can’t think of a more obvious visual oversight. They offered to exchange it, for me to send it back and them to fix it, or for them to reimburse me at a local tailor to do it. Nah, I kept it. I like it. I probably would keep misaligned patterns if I liked that jacket and it was otherwise not functionally compromised for it.

Or like, the whole brand of Tender, lol. One of my favorites, if not favorite brand of all, and nearly every piece I have included some sort of wonkiness, and not necessarily even the sort that seems intended. Wouldn’t have it any other way.

Different strokes!

[Double 0 Soul]

48 minutes ago, ATWM said:

Or like, the whole brand of Tender, lol. One of my favorites, if not favorite brand of all, and nearly every piece I have included some sort of wonkiness, and not necessarily even the sort that seems intended. Wouldn’t have it any other way.

Different strokes!

Agreed^ .. if the wonkyness is inherent within the brand ethos.

I haven’t seen much from AtLast but I wouldn’t attribute wonkyness to the brand (it usually looks pretty clean) in this case it just looks like poor workmanship.

Wonkyness or not.. all I ask is, if you want me to pay $450 for your garment then I want you to care about the way you make it.. I didn’t see much care taken in the above.

[MJF9]

Hahaha I was only teasing / joking lads 😁

[Double 0 Soul]

We know!

I thought you'd tell by the Marlon Brando spiel

[MJF9]

I haven't read the essays properly as I was on the move with no reading spex - I will look forward to that pleasure later