Loopwheeled/Vintage T-Shirts

[Sensuki]

16 minutes ago, serotonin flood said:

Thanks for the write up!  What are your favorite loopwheeled shirts that you own?

My favourite is my Stevenson Overall Loopwheeled Henley shirt in size Large. It's the recent one that was posted about earlier in the thread made of undyed, unbleached cotton. It's sewn with the flat-(over)locking technique where the stitching is visible on the exterior of all of the seams as well as beneath. I think the reason they chose this construction is because they have a shoulder yoke on this henley where the direction of the fabric has been changed for better movement. It would be a bit odd having two overlocked seams pointing into your shoulder.

It also has some nice ribbing fabric on the arms and the placket is lined with a plain weave woven fabric so it keeps its shape. The buttons are fake mother of pearl (unfortunately). There is one flaw on the one I have and that's the lockstitch at the base of the placket that sews the pieces together isn't straight and is noticeably diagonal. That said, with Atsu's "it doesn't have to be perfect" motto I'm not too surprised.

The fabric is really uniform in weave, reasonably soft, fairly loose weave, on the lighter side of medium weight and has quite a dry hand. It doesn't really crease or wrinkle when you wear it, it folds/relaxes similar to how a hand-woven fabric behaves. It performed reasonably well in the humid Australian summer, I wouldn't think twice about wearing it whereas I found some of the other fabrics (Freewheelers, Full Count in particular) were not great in the summer and it wasn't long before I was a hot, sweaty mess.

The combo of fit, design and fabric is what makes it my favourite. It's nice and long in the body, which suits me because I always tuck my shirts in.

Edited July 4, 2017 by Sensuki

[serotonin flood]

Wow that sounds really nice!  What would you recommend for someone looking for more of just a regular t shirt?

[Sensuki]

20 minutes ago, serotonin flood said:

Wow that sounds really nice!  What would you recommend for someone looking for more of just a regular t shirt?

I really like my Warehouse loopwheel t-shirt from last season. I regret not getting it in multiple colors. I also really like my Freewheelers t-shirts. Not great for summer but awesome for winter and really interesting neppy fabric made from American cotton. I would also recommend the Tezomeya too, which I'm wearing now!

I need a ~17.5" shoulder and a 19"(min) -21"(max) chest and generally don't buy anything less than 27" in length these days. So I guess it depends on your measurements as to which t-shirts would work for you.

Edited July 4, 2017 by Sensuki

[Geeman]

Seconded on the Warehouse ts

[Sensuki]

Here are the photos of the Tezomeya Loopwheel Tee 175cm, excuse the wet hair.

Macro

[dudewuttheheck]

Wow that fabric looks stunning!

[Capsicum Fried Meat]

I believe that Tezomeya fabric feels really comfortable when wearing

[Sensuki]

Yes it's probably the most comfortable t-shirt I've worn. Pretty impressed! Definitely going to get a few of the other colors for the warmer weather.

[Broark]

Had to pick up these for the summer!

[Sensuki]

I grabbed some Jelado AG-94202 Lightweight Short Sleeve Henleys today in Heather Grey and Natural, will try and take some photos on the weekend. Corlection have them hiding out the back waiting for the next season.

I am not sure if they are loopwheeled or not yet as I haven't really taken a close look / haven't worn them, but they are really thin compared to any of the other japanese t-shirts, and even thinner than the Tezomeya as well, so they should be quite nice for sping/summer in a few months. 

Wouldn't be surprised if they're done in the same factory that do the Loop&Weft or Stevenson ones from the last run as the construction/design is very similar. Flat overlocking on all seams including the hem, placket in a woven fabric and same back reinforcement.

Will take a photo tomorrow in the sunlight!

The AUD is set to rise to .8-.85 USD soon and will probably make similar gains against the JPY as well, so I may do another Tezomeya order soon.

Edited July 21, 2017 by Sensuki

[Sensuki]

Shoddy photos of the Jelado Lightweight Henleys

Lots of color variation in the Heather Grey and the Natural has some blue-grey slub thread in it

[dudewuttheheck]

Those Jelado shirts look incredible! How about some shots out of the bag?

[Sensuki]

Sure thing, I'll give it a shot tomorrow, it got dark pretty quick after I took those.

[mlwdp]

How do y'all feel about slubb cotton tshirts?

[Claytonimus]

30 minutes ago, mlwdp said:

How do y'all feel about slubb cotton tshirts?

If done right: dope.

[mlwdp]

6 hours ago, Claytonimus said:

If done right: dope.

Yeah I usually stick to Buck Mason tshirts for that.  At $30 a pop they're not bad for some made in LA tshirts.  Just wish they had more colors and straight hem tshirts though.  And v-necks.

Edited July 25, 2017 by mlwdp

[Sensuki]

There's a small new brand in Australia that currently does upper tier scarves, scotland-knitted sweaters and fine sartorial gloves that is apparently doing a sample run of loopwheel pocket tees and short sleeve henleys through an osaka knitting factory. I won't spill the name of the brand yet (as I am not sure if I'm allowed to), but as soon as I get any more information, I'll share it.

 

Edit:

Just ordered 3 more Tezomeya shirts

Taisha-iro
Oitake-iro
Un-dyed Loop Wheel Knit Basque Shirt

Edited July 26, 2017 by Sensuki

[Sensuki]

Just went a bit crazy

On the way

Loop & Weft LRC1031 Vintage Inspired Crewneck Tee - Oatmeal
Loop & Weft LRC1009 Supima Cotton Lightweight Henley Tee - Heather Grey
Tezomeya Plain Loopwheel Tee - Taisha-iro
Tezomeya Plain Loopwheel Tee - Oitake-iro
Tezomeya Undyed Loop Wheel Knit Basque Shirt
Warehouse 4601 Loopwheel Plain Tee - Heather Grey

Edited July 27, 2017 by Sensuki

[garden gnomes in space]

1 hour ago, Sensuki said:

Just went a bit crazy

On the way

Loop & Weft LRC1031 Vintage Inspired Crewneck Tee - Oatmeal
Loop & Weft LRC1009 Supima Cotton Lightweight Henley Tee - Heather Grey
Tezomeya Plain Loopwheel Tee - Taisha-iro
Tezomeya Plain Loopwheel Tee - Oitake-iro
Tezomeya Undyed Loop Wheel Knit Basque Shirt
Warehouse 4601 Loopwheel Plain Tee - Heather Grey

I have not seen real world photos of either of those Tezo colors.  Be sure to post when they arrive!

[Sensuki]

Absolutely man, I thought they'd be nice and different to the usual colors. Order is expected to ship in just over 2 weeks according to Bandanna Almanac

[Sensuki]

Not what I said I was going to do, but here is a photo trying to compare the different tones of color between a Uniqlo Supima Cotton Tee (as an example of a basic every day white tee), the Stevenson Overall Loopwheeled Henley in Natural Unbleached, Undyed cotton and the Tezomeya Unbleached, Undyed cotton tee.

Sorry for the lighting again, but it's just about to rain. As you can see the Stevenson one is a warm off-white, but the Tezomeya is definitely not white.

Here's a bonus pic of me in my Warehouse 4601 Loopwheeled Henley Tee in White, and some Grandpa Pyjama pants.

I've had the Warehouse henley for 9-10 months and worn  it 1-2 times every two weeks. It's been mostly hand-washed, but it also underwent a few harsh washes while trying to remove sweat smells (the issue was actually the hard water in my apartment making it difficult to clean things, which I solved by using warmer water and sodium carbonate) and underarm stains from deodorant (used a mix of hydrogen peroxide, dish soap and bicarb soda which worked well). The cotton on the henley has pilled, but not it an unattractive way. It looks the same now as it did after 2 months of wears. The hand feel isn't quite as nice as it was new however.

Edited July 29, 2017 by Sensuki

[Sensuki]

Loop & Weft LRC1009 from S/S16 (last one in size 40 at Okayama Denim). Very lightweight supima cotton henley with Corozo buttons(!). Probably won't wear this until the weather warms up a bit.

Photos of other stuff to come, just managed to snap this before it got dark.

Edited August 5, 2017 by Sensuki

[Sensuki]

My Tezomeya drop is due at the start of next week, I have prepared myself accordingly.

That said, the current organic detergent I am using uses similar ingredients and is about half the price for double the amount, so we'll see how they perform against eachother.

 

[Sensuki]

Loop & Weft LRC1031 Vintage Inspired Tee (Oatmeal)

I would consider the color more of a light Heather Gray than an Oatmeal. The body is a recycled cotton yarn with several irregular traits. It's deliberately knitted slightly off-grain and it's very neppy in the sense that it's unfiltered, loads of cotton seed and plant are stuck in the fibers, way more so than any other t-shirt fabric I've come across. This makes it slightly itchy at times, but the neps will come out with washes.

Sleeve ribbing in a very similar style to the latest Stevenson Natural cotton tee.

I ordered a size 40 mainly due to the fact that the shoulder size on the 38 was listed as really small (42cm). The actual garment is a bit oversized to what I would consider my ideal fit range, but only slightly. I could hot soak it a few times to try and shrink it down a bit, there's enough extra length (71-72cm) to do that.

[Sensuki]

On 7/25/2017 at 6:08 PM, Sensuki said:

There's a small new brand in Australia that currently does upper tier scarves, scotland-knitted sweaters and fine sartorial gloves that is apparently doing a sample run of loopwheel pocket tees and short sleeve henleys through an osaka knitting factory. I won't spill the name of the brand yet (as I am not sure if I'm allowed to), but as soon as I get any more information, I'll share it.[/quote]

I got an update on this today

The brand is aarch.co

Here is a photo of the sample fabric: 

The fabric is tubular knit at Wakayama, Japan, but not loopwheeled.

The first run is plan t-shirts in four colours - White, Grey, Indigo and Army Green

The price will be $80AU

Release date is a few weeks

[Guest]

4 hours ago, Sensuki said:

I got an update on this today

The brand is aarch.co

Here is a photo of the sample fabric: 

The fabric is tubular knit at Wakayama, Japan, but not loopwheeled.

The first run is plan t-shirts in four colours - White, Grey, Indigo and Army Green

The price will be $80AU

Release date is a few weeks

As an Aussie this interests me.. 

Has anyone tried the Entry SG loopwheel tees? They look good but wondering about quality and also how much shrinkage to expect.

[S21]

I've got an Entry SG Henley and the quality is really good with hardly any shrinking. 

[Spiraltoy]

Really like the sleeve ribbing on these. Thanks for all the pics and thorough reviews!

[Sensuki]

No worries mate. I should post some more up as I've had thorough time to wear a lot of the stuff I bought since July. Just haven't got around to taking any photos

[Sensuki]