Tender Co. Denim

[mtchfrnk]

So I got the size 3, thinking they would have a 32 waist (as listed on Superdenim and Hickorees). However, these measure at 34! I'm not sure if I need to see about the size 2s. My waist is a 33.5, and these have just a tad bit of room, so we'll see. It's a bit hard to gauge, since these are clearly made to fit comfortably on the hips, which these do. Like most, I'm accustomed to sizing with a snug fit, to let the fabric stretch with repeated wear. I haven't had a chance to hem these-- they've still got a 37-inch inseam, so I had to roll the cuffs several times over...

They look great. You're right that there isn't enough consumer representation. Believe it or not I have both pairs of jeans and haven't posted anything about them yet. Soon, soon, I will.

I had the same sizing experience with my 132s, and although I'm curious to see how a 2 would fit, I'm certainly not going to exchange or anything. As you mention, they're meant to be roomy, and I'm stoked to wear them "as the artist intended."

Ditto for multi-roll cuffs -- the guidebook says the jeans are "cut long for cuffing," so fuck it, I'm gone cuff 'em.

[grooveholmes]

Thanks Snake, LC, and mtch for the kind words. I think I will stick with these and just use a belt for the extra bit of space.

This may be a question for William to answer, but I'm wondering what a hot soak might do? I'd like to get some shrink out of these (I know there will be little) but I'm also asking with regard to bleeding.

[Snake]

I don't think the jean will shrink anymore. They were washed or soaked and dip dyed twice.

Here is another pic of my jacket

[grooveholmes]

That is a sweet jacket Snake-- beautiful color and nice fit. Have you soaked it or anything yet?

mtchfrnk - hurry up and gets some fit pics up. I need to see those 130s and 132s...

[thewickett]

that jacket has always looked amazing.. I'm assuming it doesn't come cuffed in the sleeves, right? If so.. awesome idea doing that yourself.. the color contrast looks great.

[rodeo bill]

just got home to see all these great pictures! Thanks all:) Grooveholmes those look great, I really like the roomier fit from your pictures. That's certainly the way I think of them as being meant to look.

Snake- very happy to see you're still rolling with cuffs- me too...

Mitch, looking forward to pics as and when, but I reckon I'll see you first!

Grooveholmes, re hot soaking- they've already got pretty hot during the dyeing, and they've also had a wash afterwards, so there shouldn't be too much shrinkage, although there will always be a bit (as you know). They should stretch back out to fairly close to how they are now with a few wears after a soak. Colour bleeding wise, yes they will lose some of the indigo with the first few washes/soaks, so wash them separately (or with things you want blue...), but this will also even out the indigo- dye that comes off will sink back in to other parts of the cloth, if that makes sense? So basically, they don't 'need' a soak, in the way people like to soak raw denim, but obviously whatever you do will just make them yours, so go with what seems like a good idea!

[grooveholmes]

Thanks, William! I'll wear these in for a bit and then give em a really hot soak to see if I can get a little more shrinkage out of them. If not, it's no big deal, as these are quite fine right now.

Mitch, did you hem yours at all? I'm on the shorter side, so I'm looking at about a 31-32' inseam as ideal with room for cuffing. However, I kind of like having several rolls weighing the legs down a bit. Just out of curiosity, how do you wear yours, William?

[LC_Miey]

Theres one last pair on of Tender 132 on sale at Unionmade at $245 if anybody interested, they are stated as size S though.. not sure what the waist measurement..

http://www.unionmadegoods.com/tender_Type_132_Dip-Dyed_Jeans_168.html

[Snake]

Grooveholmes - Thanks. no soak yet.

Thewickett - I got the cuff idea from William when he posted his fit pic earlier in this thread.

[mtchfrnk]

130, ~2 days wear

132, ~1.5 mos wear

[LC_Miey]

the weft on 130 is significantly less blue than 132.. how come this is the case?

by the way, awesome fit on both of them! lovee it

[mtchfrnk]

132 indigo dyed fly button

132 selvedge pocket reinforcement, interior. Worthy of a patent and a photo spread in "Blue Jeans of the Old West"

132 reinforced pocket mouth. Note thickness. There's an extra layer of denim in there.

132 wear on back pocket corner. Cotton/indigo is compressed and glossy, almost like plastic. Weird!

130. Note shiny hardware, polished by weld dying. Also note "snob's thumb" pocket. Set in behind waistband. Easy access. Look like a dandy; stand around with your thumb hooked in.

130 snob pocket, interior. Calico lining is cut on the selvedge, with bottom free. You can hide a little wad of cash behind it. Don't tell anyone, it's secret.

130 back pocket wear. Probably due to dying process more than my wearing. See the bright blue?

130 denim detail. Weld-dyed hair.

130 interior front. Note, again, pocket mouth reinforcement; denim pocket bags; snob's thumb pocket construction: attached in one go, down, across, up, and then back the same way.

[mtchfrnk]

the weft on 130 is significantly less blue than 132.. how come this is the case?

by the way, awesome fit on both of them! lovee it

Thanks! My 130s are dyed with weld, a yellow vegetable dye, not indigo. There are some detailed pictures of both fits w/weld overdye at the okiya denim blog.

[grooveholmes]

Nice work, Mitch-- diggin' the pics and info! You're a pretty tall dude-- it must be nice being able to get the max out of those inseams. I think both fits look good on you-- the 132s in particular, though I shouldn't speak too soon, since you're still breaking in the 130s.

The weld dying is very nice, as is the thumb/"snob's" pocket (my favorite detail). I really dig the weld overdye, too. Those will turn out lovely over time-- can't wait to see evo pics a few months from now. It's nice to see the contrast stitching as well. Not that I don't appreciate the 132s. It's just the opposite: I find the "blues" (weft, stitching, etc.) quite beautiful. Great stuff.

[mtchfrnk]

Nice work, Mitch-- diggin' the pics and info! You're a pretty tall dude-- it must be nice being able to get the max out of those inseams.

Yes, I decided as a young boy to grow up tall and skinny. I am not sure why more people don't do this.

[ThisSunday]

I haven't checked this thread in a while, but there are some beautiful pieces on display. Great work

[wgmds]

ok, i think i'm biting the bullet on these mother fuckers. 132s, would it be possible to get some tender buttons for suspenders?!

[LFC4ever]

Who would have the 130's in stock please? Size 36.

[grooveholmes]

Yes, I decided as a young boy to grow up tall and skinny. I am not sure why more people don't do this.

Haha nice. So my parents lied... it isn't genetic. I knew should have willed myself taller!

Mitch-- do the 130s have chainstitched hems?

William-- was there a particular reason for not chainstitching the 132s? Not complaining, as I don't find it a necessary feature or necessary marker of "quality". Just curious!

LFC-- I think so far Okiya is the only shop that has the 130s. I know that Hickorees and Unionmade will be carrying them this Spring, but an exact date isn't known. Last I checked, Hickorees said some time in February.

[mtchfrnk]

Once I have my cuffs set, I really don't like to unroll them. But for you, I'll check.

And I checked: no chainstitch hem. If I recall, William's jeansmaker used to have a chainstitch hemmer but unfortunately had to ditch the machine when moving workspaces.

PS:

Who would have the 130's in stock please? Size 36.

130s etc. are part of the spring/summer line. Everybody who physically has a pair (ie me and Emil and OkiyaDenim) is cheating. We got advanced screening tickets. SPOILER ALERT: in the end it turns out they're awesome.

But yeah, general release is coming w/in the next few months.

And hey everybody. Don't forget Tender has stuff besides denim pants. A denim vest, for instance. Get pumped.

[ThisSunday]

I ordered a woad dyed tee. Can't wait to get it. I'm too broke to get that jacket but I'll definitely be purchasing another piece sometime this year

[grooveholmes]

Once I have my cuffs set, I really don't like to unroll them. But for you, I'll check.

And I checked: no chainstitch hem. If I recall, William's jeansmaker used to have a chainstitch hemmer but unfortunately had to ditch the machine when moving workspaces.

Honored, really, to be held in such high regard haha. Thanks for checking, for real. Re: the unfortunate jettisoning of said chainstitch machine-- hmmm I'm debating whether or not to just go ahead and send em to Schaffer's for a nice chainstitch hem (with sufu discount) or to take them to my local tailor (quicker turnaround).

Also, thanks for being a great resource for Tender goods. Your blog is the pretty great. It's a near-perfect compilation of the info from this thread, with great, articulate, commentary.

ThisSunday-- this thread could use some more sweet style pics-- looking forward to seeing em, man. I don't think I can afford anything else at the moment, but I've been sweatin' the belts for some time now.

[Snake]

I have the woad dyed T. Definitely my favorite t-shirt. I love the rib cuffs. I want to get the weld dyed T and the S buckle belt, can't decide which one though....leaning towards the black one.

That denim vest looks good too. Can't wait for William to post pics for the SS11 season.

[wgmds]

just bought a pair of 132s. super excited! hopefully they ship out soon! and now, i can finally get a pair of engineer boots without looking like a dick in skinny jeans. it was between these and a pair of 700WH, i hope these are as wonderful as i think that they will be.

[LFC4ever]

Haha nice. So my parents lied... it isn't genetic. I knew should have willed myself taller!

Mitch-- do the 130s have chainstitched hems?

William-- was there a particular reason for not chainstitching the 132s? Not complaining, as I don't find it a necessary feature or necessary marker of "quality". Just curious!

LFC-- I think so far Okiya is the only shop that has the 130s. I know that Hickorees and Unionmade will be carrying them this Spring, but an exact date isn't known. Last I checked, Hickorees said some time in February.

MANY THANKS - WILL KEEP LOOKING!

[Jelmer]

This is the third day of wearing my Tender belt, and I noticed this crack, is there any reason to worry?

edit: Resized pics.

[zissou]

That crack is surprising to see. It usually only happens when trying to fold leather without properly casing or oiling it. Was it on your floor and you stepped on it or something?

[wgmds]

ok, i think i'm biting the bullet on these mother fuckers. 132s, would it be possible to get some tender buttons for suspenders?!

wonderful pants.

shitty pic. will upload more/ better quality later in tender thread.

AA

tender

Alden

[wgmds]

hey hey hey. the top of the pockets are THICK AS HELL.

[thedoad]

No offense my man but you might want to look into another cut...