home-made jeans

[hollowsleather]

For jeans the smallest length should be just fine. I buy the longest because you clip the excess anyway, and the longer versions are useful for some leather projects while still working just fine with thinner stuff as well.

[rstanton14]

I am looking to learn to make my own jeans and I don't know where to start. I've found a couple article on RawrDenim but as far as that goes I've been having trouble finding resources on the subject. If anyone knows of a site or book or anything that will help (people included) that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for reading.

[grooveholmes]

Start posting in this thread

http://supertalk.sup...ome-made-jeans/

Next time, google "superfuture" with whatever topic concerns you or post the question in the small questions thread and someone can help you out. Most likely any question you have has been asked already-- just try a little harder to find the answer next time.

edit: sufu mods are f*cking awesome.

Edited December 9, 2012 by grooveholmes

[Somar]

And for inspiration read this roydenim.com. And then google his name if you want more info because there are some short docu's about him.

[nietenhosen]

created some new shirt styles lately, for example this greenish 6,5oz chambray western...

Edited December 10, 2012 by nietenhosen

[hollowsleather]

Holy shit.

[Canada_Steve]

agreed! wow!

[aaronxxx]

i guess we all have a new goal to set for ourselves

[oranswell]

created some new shirt styles lately, for example this greenish 6,5oz chambray western...

Did you use an interlining for the shirt collar?

Also for guys based in the EU does anyone know decent suppliers that'll small amounts of rivets and tack buttons as well as selvage denim? At the moment it looks like I'll have to buy bags of tacks and rivets from YKK at 2,500 per bag! Also it seems a bit wasteful to post small amounts huge distances, rather than buying from the main stockist in Europe and there must be one somewhere. I tried contacting denim makers in the UK but none of them would let me know who they buy from, which is a shame.

Also looking for the D-core American and Efird thread by the cone.

[jerrylee]

Nietenhosen, that is a really beautiful shirt! Great work!

Oranswell, Perhaps you could find several people to place a bulk order and split the price. I've always been pretty open about where I source my materials but it seems with so many people getting into the boutique/high-end denim business I think a lot of folks are guarding their sources. I've personally spent many frustrating hours on the internet searching for materials, calling wholesalers, etc. I know it's a huge pain in the ass, but ultimately it's rewarding when you find that piece of the puzzle you've been searching for. Anyway, good luck, be sure to post your work!

[nietenhosen]

thank you very much guys.

@oranswell: there are no interlinings.

[oranswell]

Oranswell, Perhaps you could find several people to place a bulk order and split the price. I've always been pretty open about where I source my materials but it seems with so many people getting into the boutique/high-end denim business I think a lot of folks are guarding their sources.

Jerrylee thanks for the reply. I'm also into traditional menswear and locally made clothing and I try to spread knowledge of mills and makers as wide as I can because its the best way to make sure these guys stay in business and that these traditional crafts are kept going. Its a pity as the hardware and materials are such a tiny part of the process, skilled labour is the biggest input.

I've personally spent many frustrating hours on the internet searching for materials, calling wholesalers, etc. I know it's a huge pain in the ass, but ultimately it's rewarding when you find that piece of the puzzle you've been searching for. Anyway, good luck, be sure to post your work!

I hear you. I'm based in Ireland so let me know if you want sources for woolens, tweeds or Irish linen.

[Mr Black]

Oranswell- What sort of rivets do you need?

I have a small sideline producing backpacks (see me url below) and do all the sourcing of the bits & pieces. I get my rivets etc from a place in London called S&K...http://www.skfittings.co.uk/. Really nice people that run it. They'll happily sell you anything from a handful to 1,000's. No fabrics tho'

In return, If you have any sources for heavyweight dense wools or tweeds that are happy to sell 2 or 3 metres at a time- i'd be very interested

[oranswell]

Oranswell- What sort of rivets do you need?

I have a small sideline producing backpacks (see me url below) and do all the sourcing of the bits & pieces. I get my rivets etc from a place in London called S&K...http://www.skfittings.co.uk/. Really nice people that run it. They'll happily sell you anything from a handful to 1,000's. No fabrics tho'

In return, If you have any sources for heavyweight dense wools or tweeds that are happy to sell 2 or 3 metres at a time- i'd be very interested

Mr. Black, I just need a source for plain rivets for pocket edges, cheers for that I'll give them a bell.

Here's a list I put on a different forum that includes menswear outfitters, capmakers, glovers, brushmakers etc. all based in Ireland, the UK or EU: http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=2978

For heavier firmly woven Donegal tweeds I'd recommend Molloy & Sons, their plain Donegal range is 545g/metre and their herringbones are 610g/metre. They sell cut lengths as its known in the trade. molloyandsons.com

As you're based in London, there are a good few cloth merchant that sell cut lengths as well to the public and the tailoring trade, where you can see the cloth on the bolt. One famous tweed specialist is W. Bill Ltd. http://www.wbill.co.uk/ and another part of the company sells wool worsted suitings, flannels etc. under the name Smith Woolens http://www.yell.com/b/Smith+and+Co+(Woollens)+Ltd-Textile+Services+and+Supplies-London-W1F7SP-4441815/

If you can get out of London I'd recommend you visit Fox Flannel Ltd. in Somerset http://www.foxflannel.com/contact.php They have a pop up shop in London for Christmas but the mill shop would be cheaper by a country mile I should imagine.

Suppliers of Woollen & Linen Cloth [This is for mills and merchants that sell cut lengths to the public]

http://www.fergusonsirishlinen.com/ [irish Damask and Double Damask linen, tablecloths, napkins, handkerchiefs etc.]

http://flaxmill.net/ [irish linen and woollens]

http://www.harrisonsburley.com/

http://www.handwoventweed.com/

http://www.hebox.co.uk/

http://www.kevinandhowlin.com/ [specialists in handwoven Donegal tweed]

http://www.mageeireland.com/

http://molloyandsons.com/

http://www.vintage-mood.co.uk/ [fantastic rates on lengths of Irish linen]

General Woollens [incl. blankets, knits, throws & yarn]

http://www.cushendale.ie/

http://www.foxfordwoollenmills.com/ [renowned in Ireland for their woolens incl. real blankets, dressing-gowns]

http://www.fishermanoutofireland.com/

http://www.handwoventweed.com/

http://www.johnstons...re.com/retail/#

http://www.kerrywoollenmills.ie/

http://www.studiodonegal.ie/

http://www.trionadesign.com/

[jerrylee]

I finally have jeans for sale on my web store (and more coming soon). I've scheduled a photo shoot with a photographer friend so I can replace the washed-out product photos that I took. Photography has never been my strong suit but I was anxious to get the ball rolling on the web store. Feedback is highly appreciated, i.e. what information needs to be clarified, etc.

http://www.jerrylees.bigcartel.com/product/pyle-slim-straight-leg

[oranswell]

Oranswell, Perhaps you could find several people to place a bulk order and split the price. I've always been pretty open about where I source my materials but it seems with so many people getting into the boutique/high-end denim business I think a lot of folks are guarding their sources. I've personally spent many frustrating hours on the internet searching for materials, calling wholesalers, etc. I know it's a huge pain in the ass, but ultimately it's rewarding when you find that piece of the puzzle you've been searching for. Anyway, good luck, be sure to post your work!

Jerrylee, I'll probably end up doing that or maybe just buying the rivets and tacks and trying to flog them online myself. It's a good thing I like being obsessive over details. I'll put stuff up when tis done, still waiting for a set of french curves in the post so I can smooth out curves on my draft.

@oranswell: there are no interlinings.

Must be a very soft comfortable collar, most modern shirts are fused and not very breathable. I see you're based in Germany, you might be interested in this company that make buttons from horn, corozo nut, mother-of-pearl etc. http://www.augsburger-knopffabrik.de/ They sell small amounts starting at 25 buttons so may be of interest to other people here. They'll make your own shape/size of button for orders of 250 pcs so well worth a look.

I finally have jeans for sale on my web store (and more coming soon). I've scheduled a photo shoot with a photographer friend so I can replace the washed-out product photos that I took. Photography has never been my strong suit but I was anxious to get the ball rolling on the web store. Feedback is highly appreciated, i.e. what information needs to be clarified, etc.

http://www.jerrylees...im-straight-leg

Your jeans look great, I hope to be able to reach your and Nietenhosens levels of workmanship with time. I love your old machines too, they really are gorgeous. I have my grand aunts 128K in the Golden Sphinx design, here's a few pics for fellow fans of old all-metal machines http://imgur.com/a/n2sG9

[smartlew]

Evening chaps - I'm a long time lurker, but this is my first post, so hello!

I've skimmed this thread a few times out of interest, and decided to finally have a crack myself. I'm looking at ordering myself some fabric from the Cloth House and following the sew-along blog someone linked to. I'll be using a light denim to make a pair for summer - that way I can be a bit looser with the cut, and I know my Mum's old sewing machine will be able to handle it. I will be reading through the thread again in greater detail, I just wondered what fabric people would recommend for the pocket bags for a light (10oz-ish) pair of jeans - I was thinking linen, but wasn't sure it would hold up very well. I notice the Cloth House have some linen/hemp fabric which looks heavier, but thought it might be a bit overkill and not very comfortable next to the skin.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and thanks for all the inspiration provided so far!

[TooAwesome]

where are you guys learning how to make your own shirts/jeans? wikipedia? lol

ie. which stitches to use (or even what each stitch is), adjustments for patterns, etc

Edited December 28, 2012 by TooAwesome

[oranswell]

where are you guys learning how to make your own shirts/jeans? wikipedia? lol

ie. which stitches to use (or even what each stitch is), adjustments for patterns, etc

I have used the cutter and tailor forum as well as this gent's sewing blog, he's self taught as well http://malepatternboldness.blogspot.ie/

I will be reading through the thread again in greater detail, I just wondered what fabric people would recommend for the pocket bags for a light (10oz-ish) pair of jeans - I was thinking linen, but wasn't sure it would hold up very well. I notice the Cloth House have some linen/hemp fabric which looks heavier, but thought it might be a bit overkill and not very comfortable next to the skin.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated, and thanks for all the inspiration provided so far!

Where abouts are you based I might be able point you towards a few suppliers for trimmings? Peculiarly enough you've hit on a nod to denim tradition as apparently the first Levis were made from hemp cloth. Linen should hold up fine as it is a stronger fibre than cotton and one of the few that gets stronger when wet, that's why it was used in articles that required frequent washing like bedlinen.

Yours mums old machine might surprise you as older all-metal domestic machines are stronger than modern ones that have plastic gears.

[smartlew]

Hi oranswell, and thanks for your reply. I'm based in England, near Manchester.

I will give the guys at Cloth House an email and ask their advice, but I think linen would be in keeping with it being a summer project.

I will have a look and see what sewing machine she has - I'm pretty sure it pre-dates me, but should be a reasonably old machine either way!

[oranswell]

I finally have jeans for sale on my web store (and more coming soon). I've scheduled a photo shoot with a photographer friend so I can replace the washed-out product photos that I took. Photography has never been my strong suit but I was anxious to get the ball rolling on the web store. Feedback is highly appreciated, i.e. what information needs to be clarified, etc.

http://www.jerrylees...im-straight-leg

Any tips on getting the waistband on? I'm trying now and after it twisted around itself I've had to take the bugger out again. Do you sew the top of the waistband first to stop it twisting? Also I'll have to do my waistband in two pieces due to the amount of cloth I had, I couldn't cut it on the grain. Please help! It's driving me nuts, I was up until 3am the last night trying to finish it.

[jerrylee]

Any tips on getting the waistband on? I'm trying now and after it twisted around itself I've had to take the bugger out again. Do you sew the top of the waistband first to stop it twisting? Also I'll have to do my waistband in two pieces due to the amount of cloth I had, I couldn't cut it on the grain. Please help! It's driving me nuts, I was up until 3am the last night trying to finish it.

I usually baste the waistband on by hand before stitching it.

[Canada_Steve]

I've always been too lazy for hand basting, so I've found a few tricks that help.

First, I completely steam press the waistband (in half along its length then seam allowances under). Then I top stitch the top edge, but staying an inch short of either end so I can tuck them in once I'm done attaching things. This helps keep it from twisting. Then I unfold it and stitch it on from the inside about 1/8" from the seam allowance fold to the jeans (with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the jeans... waistband is inside out and tucked inside the jeans). Once that's done I fold the waistband over, tuck in the ends and top stitch the bottom from the outside making sure I'm hiding the stitching I did from the inside. I then finish up the top where I stopped short and run down the sides of the ends.

Maybe my description is a bit confusing, so let me know if I can clarify

[oranswell]

I've always been too lazy for hand basting, so I've found a few tricks that help.

First, I completely steam press the waistband (in half along its length then seam allowances under). Then I top stitch the top edge, but staying an inch short of either end so I can tuck them in once I'm done attaching things. This helps keep it from twisting. Then I unfold it and stitch it on from the inside about 1/8" from the seam allowance fold to the jeans (with the right side of the waistband facing the wrong side of the jeans... waistband is inside out and tucked inside the jeans). Once that's done I fold the waistband over, tuck in the ends and top stitch the bottom from the outside making sure I'm hiding the stitching I did from the inside. I then finish up the top where I stopped short and run down the sides of the ends.

Maybe my description is a bit confusing, so let me know if I can clarify

Jerrylee and Canada_Steve, thanks a million for the suggestions they've helped me figure put more in my own head how it should go together. Never thought I'd say this but unfortunately the sewing machine has been packed away over christmas so I haven't been able to work on the band. I'll post photos of progress soon as though.

[grav.itas]

Not jeans, but since other people are posting shirts, here's an x-post from "Anyone make their own clothes?" thread.

Edited January 8, 2013 by grav.itas

[oranswell]

grav.itas,

Did you make that shirt? The quality of the work is brilliant, beautiful even stitching throughout, is it a linen or cotton denim chambray? Did you use an interlining for the collar? Are they mother-of-pearl buttons by any chance?

[grav.itas]

oranswell,

Thanks and yes, i made the shirt. it's cotton chambray with mother of pearl buttons. i used the same chambray for the interlining as i didn't want a very stiff collar.

Edited January 9, 2013 by grav.itas

[oranswell]

oranswell,

Thanks and yes, i made the shirt. it's cotton chambray with mother of pearl buttons. i used the same chambray for the interlining as i didn't want a very stiff collar.

With the soft collar do you have trouble with the points turning up? Where did you get the mother of pearl buttons? I had to buy a wholesale amount myself [500] in order to get nice Italian-made australiana ones. They're very hard come by sadly.

Your sewing is beautiful by the way, any tips on how you practiced to get such even seams or sew around curves evenly?

[grav.itas]

oranswell,

Well the chambray was already pretty heavy and i only had to use one layer. Sometimes i have to use 2 layers if i use thin oxfords or madras. the local sewing supply shop had a few left (only enough for 10 or so) so i got them all. youre right, hard to come by.

About sewing, its really just experience and basting. initially i was sewing super slow, like a shirt took 4 days but now i can do 3 in 1 day.

[tweedi]

.....

Edited May 30, 2016 by tweedi