home-made jeans

[rnrswitch]

Howdy, long time lurker here.

Started these in the summer, went with a trouser cut for a little variation. I bought Cone mills redline selvedge and a blue( cant remember the varying weights, but they are noticeably different), used one type on the front panels and the other on the back to test and compare the wear on both. They have been completed since these pictures but due to my extraordinary ability in smashing phones and cameras with great ease I have been unable to photograph the finished article.

These were my second attempt at trousers, and as you can see I had a little trouble with thread tension on my tiny overlocker which has left me with unkept seams.

This is pretty late, but where did you get your pattern for these? I have been looking for a decent trouser pattern, but can't find one.

[hardy]

Hi, I drew up the pattern from a pair of trousers I had loved for ages but had blown on the crotch. I unpicked all the seams and ironed out the pieces and drew patterns from these. I should have made a mock up pair in calico but was to desperate to get started with the denim which is a bad move because you can make all the adjustments in the calico mock up.

I adapted parts as I went along, like making the back pocket bags the shape of standard rear jeans pockets. and then top stitched them with a cross over at the top, I'd been reading mike harris's book and had been influenced by all the decretive stitching on the old jeans.

[simontuntelder]

Enough pictures of your ass, we want to see the front!!

[TooAwesome]

where do you get the patterns from? and what guidelines do i need to draw up a custom fit if i cant find the pattern for it?

[Goominim]

I'm going to pick up a belt-driven Singer for $125 tomorrow. Time to play.

[Maynard Friedman]

where do you get the patterns from? and what guidelines do i need to draw up a custom fit if i cant find the pattern for it?

http://denimhunters.com/blog/news/tpjeanspattern

[simontuntelder]

Yeah, that method is quite hit and miss... Although it's a very nice article from a fellow Danish blog.

I would say, cut up a pair of jeans, that fits your OR contact a seamstress, tailor or pattern maker and work out a pattern with him or her. I'm sure it can be done quite cheaply.

[simontuntelder]

I'm going to pick up a belt-driven Singer for $125 tomorrow. Time to play.

Which one?

I'm asking because most old Singers are belt driven...

[Goominim]

15-30

[jerrylee]

Just wondering if anyone knows of a good source for wabash or hickory stripe fabric. I contacted Premium Denim Outlet in L.A. and they said they have it occasionally but are currently out of stock. I'd prefer not to use ticking. Thanks!

[nietenhosen]

working on shirts the last few months.

it's a work shirt made of 11oz denim, single needle felled seams, mother of pearl cats eye buttons.

worn three months or so...

thanks for looking.

[thirdhand]

working on shirts the last few months.

it's a work shirt made of 11oz denim, single needle felled seams, mother of pearl cats eye buttons.

worn three months or so...

thanks for looking.

That's fantastic.

[rnrswitch]

Dude that is amazing. One of the best simple denim shirts I have ever seen. I love the selvedge detailing.

[attackwithstones]

That thing is awesome! If I didn't have a Mister Freedom Libery Issue CPO I would be hitting you up to make me one. Congrats!

[Cain]

Great shirt! Really, really nice. If you get your hands one some 11+ oz OD denim, I'll pay you disposable income to make me one

[lance]

i agree, great work!

[Canada_Steve]

Nice, nietenhosen! I really dig your stuff.

Here's some jeans I built recently.

[UkeNo]

Can someone recommend a quality brand or shop for Thread Snips?

I'd like a quality pair - the kind that will last for many years to come.

Made in the UK, USA, Japan etc.

Thanks

Edited May 11, 2012 by UkeNo

[wgmds]

i believe that these are made in brazil, but blackbird is pretty great. this might be something worth looking into. http://blackbirdballard.com/Blackbird_Thread_Clip_17209.html

[jerrylee]

Can someone recommend a quality brand or shop for Thread Snips?

I'd like a quality pair - the kind that will last for many years to come.

Made in the UK, USA, Japan etc.

Thanks

My personal favorites are these: http://www.wawak.com/products/product.cfm?pID=9080

They're inexpensive and last forever. I recently bought half a dozen and keep a pair at each machine. Seriously, don't let the low price fool you, they are the best.

[jerrylee]

Just finished making this hickory stripe cigarette pocket shirt. The seams are flat felled and it has 1940's new old stock fisheye buttons. Also features a chin strap collar. I couldn't find selvedge hickory stripe so if anyone knows where to find it, let me know! The fabric is about 10 oz. so it's pretty heavy. Let me know what you think!

[Canada_Steve]

Let me know what you think!

Nice detailing. Did you draft up a pattern or use something as a starting point?

[jerrylee]

Nice detailing. Did you draft up a pattern or use something as a starting point?

I drafted my own pattern based on measurements that I took from a shirt that I liked the fit of. I've never found a shirt draft that is accurate so I usually make a couple of mock ups based on a rough draft and then tweak things until I come up with something I like. Do you draft your own patterns? I bought a book on eBay recently that has diagrams for making mens & boys overalls. the book is from the 20's... I have a lot of projects in line but eventually I plan to try some drafts from the book.

[Canada_Steve]

Good job, it looks great. Sounds like something I should have done

I bought a pattern, but soon realized that it didn't have a poker straight outside seam for the selvedge, nor could I find one that did. I used that pattern as a guideline for construction, but basically had to come up with my own draft for a good fit.

Getting the crotch region right was a big mind bender. Drafting in 2D, but then building it into something 3D that will shrink and stretch was a big challenge. Even ironing during a build can send you for a loop. It took me something near eight pairs of simplified shorts and ten pairs of jeans before I had a fit that I was 100% happy with! It's been a super rewarding journey.

My next challenge is to draft bigger sizes for friends. Or maybe even something with more curves for the wife.

[nietenhosen]

hey, sweet looking shirt, great work.

any pics of the back side of this beautiful shirt?

[rnrswitch]

Beautiful hickory stripe shirt up there. I think, as someone pointed out to me before, the cigarette pocket is not sewn at the bottom that way. Take a look at the workshirts thread and I believe the official patent for the cigarette pocket is in there.

[jerrylee]

Beautiful hickory stripe shirt up there. I think, as someone pointed out to me before, the cigarette pocket is not sewn at the bottom that way. Take a look at the workshirts thread and I believe the official patent for the cigarette pocket is in there.

Thanks! I'm going to remake this shirt in chambray and maybe I'll change the cigarette pocket to be more period correct.

[simontuntelder]

Just finished making this hickory stripe cigarette pocket shirt. The seams are flat felled and it has 1940's new old stock fisheye buttons. Also features a chin strap collar. I couldn't find selvedge hickory stripe so if anyone knows where to find it, let me know! The fabric is about 10 oz. so it's pretty heavy. Let me know what you think!

I have some vintage deadstock hickory fabric with selvage, but I'm based in Denmark, so it seems a bit stupid. Contact Premium Denim Outlet and ask around. They've always been very helpful with me.

[jerrylee]

I have some vintage deadstock hickory fabric with selvage, but I'm based in Denmark, so it seems a bit stupid. Contact Premium Denim Outlet and ask around. They've always been very helpful with me.

I contacted Premium Denim Outlet but they didn't have it. I recently bought a bunch of chambray from them and last year bought some selvedge denim... great company! I may be interested in your deadstock hickory, I'll send you a message.

[jerrylee]

Another hickory stripe project... this is a gas station jacket. The seams are flat felled and the buttons are 1940's n.o.s. fisheye. The Fleet-Wing logo on the back was worked on my Singer 114w103 chainstitch embroidery machine. I'm thinking of doing a series of shirts and jackets with vintage logos in chainstitch embroidery.

And a closer pic of the embroidery: