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Sugar Cane Denim


allacedout

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obsessis, you know what, I asked Hist. Pres. if a special order could be made and I was told "No", that it's all about demand. If enough requests come through for a longer inseam, well, then, maybe...But for now, they arrive with a 36 inseam. Take it or leave it. If those denims are gonna shrink down to a 33 inseam, well, brother, I guess I'm leaving it. I cannot risk it. Period.

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33" inseam is not too short for me. If you see pics of me with them on i have them cuffed twice. I have a long torso, but i also wear the jeans around my hips. This means the inseam starts below my crotch, which will take a couple inches off the inseam length. More fitting jeans i have to wear with a longer inseam.

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About Rakuten, I've checked the Cane page and the inseam, in inches, not cm's, is 34. That's not even the 36" you can get from History Preservation. Go to the "Rakuten General Store", click on those 47's and check it out. How does one go about ordering from Rakuten anyway? I mean, the damn website is ninety-nine percent Japanese. This is after the Google translator has done its work. It's frustating attempting to understand fully the translation Google presents. I can't imagine trying to order clothing this way. Does anyone, anyone who has successfully placed an order, that is, know of a better way? Of course, if Sugarcane is only offering a 34" inseam, there's not much point, is there?

Edited by Edge_Of_Denim on Jan 14, 2006 at 10:54 AM

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I think basically, you need to do all your research here. Then when you figure out what model and size you want, you go to bid-service or celga to order them. Believe me I have spent ours on Rakuten just looking at pictures, having no idea what anything says.

Edited by bobby alto on Jan 14, 2006 at 12:49 PM

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Just looked on the SugarCane site and I am now considering the 1966 model-the waist looks boxier, straighter in the hips. I notice there are no hidden rivets( obviously discontinued by levis at that point) but does anyone know how many button on the fly there are. Do they have a longer rise than the 1947's? As long as the 1955's? And I don't see them at Histo. Pres. Where wwould I get the 66's? Any 66 opinons would be appreciated.

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on the '47 inseam question, my canes on a 12 hour cold soak went to a 34" (kind of crinkled up, so probably it's actually longer) inseam. and if i wanted to stretch the legs a bit, i bet i could get another inch no problem. i'm also 6-2, and that's enough for 1" cuffs for me. my legs are a bit on the short side maybe, but i'd be surprised if you found the canes too short (unless big cuffs are a must for you).

you could also order 1-wash instead, and just try them on and see. return them if they don't work. --you'd be out about $20 at worst.

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Wooster, that's what I'm thinking. Just take the hit on shipping cost if it doesn't work out.

So you bought unwashed? I'll probably go for the 1 wash. Hey man, if you're 6'2" and those things work for you, that's encouraging. Last question, how much space between the hem and the floor, with shoes on?

Edited by Edge_Of_Denim on Jan 15, 2006 at 05:05 PM

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You can't order from Rakuten stores yourself. You need to use a service, or PM djrajio here on the forums.

PS: Rakuten itself isn't a "shop" -- it's sort of like Yahoo, in that it provides hosting/services/etc. for a bunch of individual stores.

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edge- i bought unwashed. i wanted to buy washed to check out the fit but they didn't have it in my size, so i just decided to take the risk and shrink them myself.

tried them on raw, they were huge. can't see anyone wearing them that way unless they sized down so much that they would no way fit after a wash.

soaked them in the washing machine overnight (12 hrs) in cold, inside out, hang dry, maybe lost an inch in the waist, and the legs went to a measured 34". tried wearing them a day like that, but they still felt way too big in the body, with a really poor fit in the rear.

figured i'd never wear them that way so i gave them a regular wash (again inside out) in what i guess would be warm water (hot on my machine, but felt warm to the touch). i stopped the cycle mid way and let them soak for a couple of hours until the water cooled down, so i would call it a hard wash. dried them hanging over a radiator. it was painful to watch the blue water drain out, but they seem to be just as deep a blue after as before (though i obviously can't do a side-by-side).

lost maybe another 1/2" in the waist and in the legs. so unstretched the inseam (by a tape measure) is 33-1/2, and i am sure will stretch out a 1/2" with normal wear by the end of the day. if you pulled on the legs while wet i bet you could easily get the inseam to 34-1/2. for me, 33-1/2 puts the hem on the ground with no shoes, and somewhat bunched up with vans on. i'd turn it up a bit to wear it.

the body and the rear shrank a lot on the hard wash. it definitely is not tight, but the fit is much improved, which is sort of surprising (but good) given how little additional shrinkage happened in the waist and inseam.

i got the 34" waist, going with the "buy canes to true waist size" school of thought (normally get a 33 or 32 in jeans), and because the history preservation people seemed so nervous about sizing down. but if i was going to do it again i really would size down to a 33, i'd say there's about zero risk of their being too tight after a bit of wear, and the ones i got are probably going to feel pretty loose after a week. also, if buying unwashed, sizing down would probably improve the fit after a cold soak (letting one avoid an immediate hard wash).

hope this is of some use.

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Quote:

edge- i bought unwashed. i wanted to buy washed to check out the fit but they didn't have it in my size, so i just decided to take the risk and shrink them myself.

tried them on raw, they were huge. can't see anyone wearing them that way unless they sized down so much that they would no way fit after a wash.

soaked them in the washing machine overnight (12 hrs) in cold, inside out, hang dry, maybe lost an inch in the waist, and the legs went to a measured 34". tried wearing them a day like that, but they still felt way too big in the body, with a really poor fit in the rear.

figured i'd never wear them that way so i gave them a regular wash (again inside out) in what i guess would be warm water (hot on my machine, but felt warm to the touch). i stopped the cycle mid way and let them soak for a couple of hours until the water cooled down, so i would call it a hard wash. dried them hanging over a radiator. it was painful to watch the blue water drain out, but they seem to be just as deep a blue after as before (though i obviously can't do a side-by-side).

lost maybe another 1/2" in the waist and in the legs. so unstretched the inseam (by a tape measure) is 33-1/2, and i am sure will stretch out a 1/2" with normal wear by the end of the day. if you pulled on the legs while wet i bet you could easily get the inseam to 34-1/2. for me, 33-1/2 puts the hem on the ground with no shoes, and somewhat bunched up with vans on. i'd turn it up a bit to wear it.

the body and the rear shrank a lot on the hard wash. it definitely is not tight, but the fit is much improved, which is sort of surprising (but good) given how little additional shrinkage happened in the waist and inseam.

i got the 34" waist, going with the "buy canes to true waist size" school of thought (normally get a 33 or 32 in jeans), and because the history preservation people seemed so nervous about sizing down. but if i was going to do it again i really would size down to a 33, i'd say there's about zero risk of their being too tight after a bit of wear, and the ones i got are probably going to feel pretty loose after a week. also, if buying unwashed, sizing down would probably improve the fit after a cold soak (letting one avoid an immediate hard wash).

hope this is of some use.

--- Original message by wooster on Jan 16, 2006 04:31 AM

thanks, wooster. quite useful. i hope you're right because I got a 33" instead of my usual 34". It's going to arrive within the week.
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I had similar results as wooster did. the hard wash shrank the body of the jeans more. The legs, butt, thigh, etc, without shrinking the waist much. I also bought true to size and have since bought a pair that have been sized down an inch (30). I have yet to soak them and don't plan to until my 31s have been worn in enough. I think the extra inch will improve the fit a lot, making them more snug.

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Quote:

Minya, what is djrajio's correct email address? He's got a few.

--- Original message by Edge_Of_Denim on Jan 16, 2006 05:00 PM

Not sure, just send him a PM here. Click "superprivate" up above, click "new message" and then fill "djrajio" in in the "to:" field. There isn't an automatic way to do it, unfortunately.
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Alright guys need some advice on sizing. I'm planning to order some "unwashed" sugarcanes this week. I'm a true 33 inch waist and I want my waist to be a little tight but not too tight. What waist size should I get? I want the denim to stretch out . Also I'm usually a 30 inseam so does that mean I have to wash the jeans before to get them to shrink to 34 inseam and then hem them?

Edited by gqb0y on Jan 16, 2006 at 08:35 PM

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Order a size 32 waist and only do a cold soak on the jeans. You should wait until the jeans have shrunk to hem the jeans. You might want to wear some cuffs until you hard wash the jeans, because their will be some more shrinkage in the jeans between the cold soak and the hard wash.

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You can leave them in a bath tub, but you could also leave them in a washer. The cold soak just means don't run them through the entire wash, just let them soak. Good luck with those jeans.

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So I got these Rickson's 1950's style back in October. Came one-wash. I've hard-washed them (machine wash, that is) three times. Last time was just prior to Thanksgiving. I've been wearing them steadily. Thing is, I don't see any whiskering/honeycombing even beginning to look like it might happen. The denim is still rather stiff and still very indigo, which is cool. I like all that. But how soon should I expect to see some of those very special characteristics start to happen? Is there something I should be doing maybe to speed up the process? Suggestions?

Let me just say, that I found Superfuture as I was searching for the location of a shop d/town. Google led me to a "Superfuture" map of NYC, showing me exactly where the shop was located. It was a very good looking map, I might add. I checked out some things elsewhere on the map and was finally led to this forum. I am amazed at how much really solid info one can grab out here. And this board is so laid back and drama free, from what I can see during my short time visiting here. Some stuck-up salesperson with his/her head up his/her own ass would never take the time to be so informative. So I come here, get what I need, and then go and make the purchase. Or not. I showed my g/friend this board and she said, "Why are all the denim experts men? You guys should be ashamed of yourselves, knowing so much about denim. Go play basketball. What's wwrong with you?" Ah, well...

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Edgeofdenim -- I wouldn't worry. Just keep on wearing them every day. They are sure to eventually show signs of wear. If anything, the fact that they've remained nearly pristine means that when they DO start to break in they're going to look even better.

btw, you sure seem an awful lot like that guy a while back who was complaining about how people were wearing jeans for "fashion" purposes or something. icon_smile_tongue.gif In any case, welcome, it's always nice to have another knowledgeable member on board.

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Minya, ok, I'll keep 'em on 'til they get all funky-stinky. Eewww....Maybe I'll do a five day/two day split. Five on. Off for two.

I'm a pretty regular guy. I don't know about your other member. I like tracking denim from where it was to where it is and how it became that way. It's so crazy, right, that once upon a time, all a person could buy was raw denim. If only all those farmers from back in the day just knew what they had! It's funny to imagine John Wayne walking around a film set in raw denim.

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Actually, I've found that even wearing my jeans every single day they hardly ever smell. And if they do, let them air out overnight, in the cold air. That will get them good as new.

btw, how do the 1950s jeans fit? Are they baggy?

And btw again: any idea if any stores in NYC stock Buzz Rickson leather jackets?

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Minya, far as I know, nothing of Buzz Rickson/Sugarcane can be found on any shelf anywhere in New York (in the US?). But if I ever find differently, I'll let you guys know.

Ok, fit. I wouldn't call them baggy at all. More like what you would find in a so-called "relaxed" cut. These 1950's are worn slightly higher on the waist, and are a bit fuller through the leg. They taper nicely at the hem. Maybe I would prefer them to fit just a bit tighter in the rear, but this is a small thing, not really a criticism even. As has been noted here, the Hist. Pres. folks strongly advise against sizing down, so you take what you get.

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I just received the 40500's but I'm in the office and I haven't tried them on yet. I got the 33 even though I'm a 34 to get a less baggier fit. But upon my initial inspection, it does look like it'll be a true (if not a tighter) 33. It looks like it'll fit perfectly if I don't soak them.

Based on what I've learned from this thread, it could stretch another inch on the waist over time. But it might be inconvenient to wear them while I'm trying to speed up the stretching.

I'll keep you posted.

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