08 Lvc

[Bongolia]

The story around the shirting material used in the pocket bags were due to shortages and rationing during the war, so therefore any type of fabric can be used striped or plain.

Not sure what the 44's for LVC 08 Range features though.

[superBobo]

I checked out the 44s in store today (missed the pocket bags though), the cut looked great aswell as the denim. Im mighty tempted.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

superBobo, how feels the denim of the 44s, cultizm says its 11oz ow weighted denim of brighter shade of pale cast?

[superBobo]

The denim was heavier than I imagined, pretty smooth and dark (unsure of the hue, since there wasnt any good light). Pretty similar to last years 47s imo.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

okay thanks, some jeans to consider on... but I own three pairs from three seasons, but actually every pair is different, maybe the most updated LVC jean...

[Shorty Long]

hanon contradicts cultizm (re. denim weight of the 1944 501s)...

After WWII materials rationing the 501 was simplified. Rather than stitching the trademark Arcuate it was painted on by hand, the crotch rivet, cinch-back and suspender buttons were gone for good on the 1944 501. Belt loops and concealed copper rivets now became standard.

XUVS Cone fabric

14oz red selvage denim

Ring ring, pure indigo, 3x1 RHT construction

Crotch rivet and cinch back were gone for good

Only has belt loops as method of waist adjustment

Hidden rivets on back pockets

Two Horse leather patch

Single sided big 'E' red tab

http://www.hanon-shop.com/product.php?productid=25013&cat=276&page=1

[robbie]

Were Orange tab a lower end jean ? Or am I correct in remembering that all levis were orange tab and little e from 71 to whenever they switched back?

[Crackerhead]

Were Orange tab a lower end jean ? Or am I correct in remembering that all levis were orange tab and little e from 71 to whenever they switched back?

From what I understand, Orange Tab was not necessarily a "lower end" jean when Levi's launched the line. It was a label which they used to help launch some of their newer fashionable fits, like the 646 bell bottom and 606 skinny, and was targeted at a younger consumer. My mom, who was in high school in the seventies, told me that it was much cooler to have Orange Tab levi's than Red Tab at the time, and that Orange Tab fits were usually a bit more expensive.

Some of the later Orange Tab Levi's I've seen though seemed lower end than their Red Tab counterparts. Levi's was selling Orange tab varieties of their fits in Canada in the nineties, for example, and the main difference between those and their Red Tab counterparts were that the orange tabs had no rivets, and a limited finish selection.

[Kurtz]

1971 517s are now on the Levi website:

http://www.levisstore.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2989801&cp=2068573.2068693&parentPage=family

notice that they are ORANGE TAB...I thought that they were originally Red Tab????

Also, country of origin is given as Imported...I know that that sort of info from the Levi site is unreliable at best, but it sure gives me pause...

The Levis site says they'll shrink an inch in the waist and length - is this correct, or will they lose two inches or so like the other raw LVCs?

[Paul T]

An inch sounds right. You still get some minor shrinking with Sanforized fabric, 3-5%.

I think they look great. THey seem to have got the colour bang-on, greener than the 501 fabric.

Great info from your mom there, Cracker. I'm still not certain about which came first, though, as I do have a piece of paper somewhere that says the 517 was introduced as the Saddleman jean, with red tab, in 67. Perhaps it shifted to the orange tab range around 1971 - I do have a breakdown somewhere of what orange tab jeans were introduced when, but it will take some finding.

[jake431]

hanon contradicts cultizm (re. denim weight of the 1944 501s)...

After WWII materials rationing the 501 was simplified. Rather than stitching the trademark Arcuate it was painted on by hand, the crotch rivet, cinch-back and suspender buttons were gone for good on the 1944 501. Belt loops and concealed copper rivets now became standard.

XUVS Cone fabric

14oz red selvage denim

Ring ring, pure indigo, 3x1 RHT construction

Crotch rivet and cinch back were gone for good

Only has belt loops as method of waist adjustment

Hidden rivets on back pockets

Two Horse leather patch

Single sided big 'E' red tab

http://www.hanon-shop.com/product.php?productid=25013&cat=276&page=1

Maybe their 44's are different? Their price in $'s is about $100 more than Cultizm's (at least it is for me).

-Jake

[Shorty Long]

It's possible, but unlikely, especially given both sites are based in Europe, so they should both receive the same stock...

Maybe their 44's are different? Their price in $'s is about $100 more than Cultizm's (at least it is for me).

-Jake

[Cue]

Well pretty much everything in the UK costs more than mainland Europe.

Hanon's Scotland-based and Cultizm German I think, so the difference in price probably means little.

[crownzip]

Here are a couple photos of a pair of six year old LVC '44 501s that are just starting to look the part.

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

I must say that the 44s got the most authentic look if you compare em with real 40s jeans, the shape of the pockets and leg... look at the 47s those are to slim I think...

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

one thing! Pault T maybe has an answer? two pairs of my 44s got plain rivets, the other one from 2005 got normal, stamped rivets, so which are authentic?

[jake431]

It's possible, but unlikely, especially given both sites are based in Europe, so they should both receive the same stock...

Yeah, really I was just postulating, I think they both have sketchy copy (Cultizm's got the weight wrong, and Hanon at the top says the package deal is for the 1967 505's and 60's tee), so who knows.

-Jake

[crownzip]

I've only seen a couple pairs of original wartime 501's, but they both had plain rivets. Interestingly. the inside pocket material of one pair I sae were made with olive drab HBT cotton (same material used in combat clothing).

[hawkeye]

crownzip those look great, I'm quite tempted to pick up a pair myself. Hopefully the Levis stores near me will have a few pairs to look at.

I found some actual 44's on ebay a while back and pulled the photos off, here they are for comparison:

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=485931&postcount=24

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=485933&postcount=25

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showpost.php?p=485938&postcount=26

The pocket bag's material and rivets probably just varied from factory to factory, I'm sure they just used whatever was available at the time and location.

[jake431]

Given how they size (at least according to Cultizm), I'm planning on sizing down (but making sure the waist doesn't shrink too much) so as to minimize the anti-fit aspects of the ass area. Gotta have me some 44's.

-Jake

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

@hawkeye,

very nice pair, an interesting part is the standart button instead of a laurel leaf donat button...

[crownzip]

hawkeye,

Thanks for the cool photos of the originals. It's cool to see how the cotton stitching has faded to a pale yellow.

Unfortunately I'd lost some weight, so the '44 repros I posted photos of were too big in the waist so I've since sold them on. One cool thing I learned was that well broken in repros can sell for more than you paid for them new!

[Paul T]

The cotton stitching on original 44s nearly always seems to fade to a really pale yellow, it's one of their most attractive features. They often seem to show a lot of fade, but still keep those deep grey-blacks. I've seen more plain pockets than patterened ones, but obviously they varied, they used whatever was available. The ones I've seen have mostly plain rivets as far as I remember but I suspect they varied too, like the buttons.

I like the cut of the LVC 44s, but they are the ones tht show least resemblance to the originals I've seen, both the colour and the stitching doesn't really resemble the originals to me - the denim is too royal a blue, like the 37s, and I think it should be blacker, more like the 47s. But obviously there's a lot of sample variation.

have a paper with the abric wieght somewhere which I'll post if I find it, don't want to guess and get it wrong.

[airfrogusmc]

I must say that the 44s got the most authentic look if you compare em with real 40s jeans, the shape of the pockets and leg... look at the 47s those are to slim I think...

The 55s are real good to as far as cut also, denim weight and overall shape compared to originals.

The 47s are trimmer, have a lower rise and their back pockets are cut small.

[airfrogusmc]

Heres my 55s after a bit of wear. They are darker than is showing in the photos

And the 47s

[jake431]

Wow, the pockets on the 47's are MUCH smaller. Can you even fit a wallet in there?

-Jake

[Sympathy-For-The-Denim]

here som pics of my fw05 44s these got striped pocket clothe and stamped rivets:

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8100/dsc01020jb6.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1265/dsc01022oy8.jpg

[airfrogusmc]

Wow, the pockets on the 47's are MUCH smaller. Can you even fit a wallet in there?

-Jake

Oh yeah wallet fits but they are smaller and smaller than originals from the same period. Anyway the ones that I've seen.

[airfrogusmc]

here som pics of my fw05 44s these got striped pocket clothe and stamped rivets:

http://img66.imageshack.us/img66/8100/dsc01020jb6.jpg

http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/1265/dsc01022oy8.jpg

Those look great...

[jake431]

Oh yeah wallet fits but they are smaller and smaller than originals from the same period. Anyway the ones that I've seen.

I'd assume the originals from the late 40's weren't anywhere near that fitted.

-Jake