Unknown Japanese Brands

[slugabed]

well you could argue that its too expensive.

 

but LVC is as expensive as Boncoura, its not worth even a single yen. (dont de offended since this is purely my own perspective)

 

other brands like 45rpm or prps offer denim with even more yen on them.

 

at the end, it totally depends on what you are looking for and how much you are willing to invest in. even then, boncoura is the one you must try at lest once in your life time.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

great to see Boncoura trending world wide.

i will post some pics of the pairs i possess later on.

 

any request to which details to post?

 

show whatever you got

 

and re the price: it's in the same ballpark as Evisu

[volvo240thebest]

 

new pair of raws made by a unknown chinese brand (should we open a new "unknown chinese brands" thread?) called Bob Dong. modeled after a 1947 cut. these were dirt cheap and I bought them while I was getting some other stuff on Taobao about a month ago. Finally I had time to soak them last sunday. all desireable details are there (hidden rivets, selvage coin pocket, nice thick leather patch, red tab).  no arcs - which I like very much. denim is 14 oz, quite soft hand, rather plain looking. the cut is very nice, slim through the legs and with a quite high waist, which i am enjoying, for a change. I really needed one more pair, ah ah!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Please post some detail pics!

[volvo240thebest]

I will! meanwhile here's the taobao link

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.1.w4004-5500263651.3.zzUibW&id=17791785393

[Mighty Oak]

Hi volvo240thebest

Nice pick up, but when are we going to see some pics. of the lovely Bronson B10?

[jgpp63]

Hi Volvo240the best,

 

Liking them, I've used Rakuten several times but am unsure about Taobao, have you any tips or problems , and yes, lets see the B10

Edited April 8, 2014 by jgpp63

[d-rew12]

I do agree we need a unknown Chinese brands thread. But I also grabbed a lesser known pair from taobao from a brand called Sauce Zhan. I got the 726XX-S model which is a sanfornzied 14oz Xinjiang cotton model based after the '66 cut. I just got them back from being hemmed (although they're still a bit too long). Nice, and soft.

here is a link to the model on taobao

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.12.qiMM01&id=18758479990

[themaster]

Just won a ww2 deluxewear with rust dust weird but well see..

[volvo240thebest]

hi lads

I'll try to get some pictures of the B10 later today!

[volvo240thebest]

alrighty, here's a couple photos of the aforementioned B10 made by Bronson

 

 

label

 

the collar

 

army airforces logo

 

talon zip

 

pockets

 

construction details

 

how it fits

 

 

My opinion

the B10 it's nice, all the stitching is very well executed, the cut is nice too (especially if you're not very tall as it's quite short) and overall I think it's well made. it runs quite snug so consider to size up if you want to wear a thick sweater underneath.

I am usually between size 40 and 42 (my chest is 40,5 circa), I went for the 42 and it's still nice and snug. I couldn't wear a thick jumper under the jacket though.

 

Caveat

I haven't handled other B10's repros by RMC, BR and Pike Bro's, however I feel this could not compare to those, which all cost  4/5 times the Bronson. For instance the collar on the Bronson is made out of a special wool that has been treated to look like mouton, while I know the RMC B10 has a real mouton collar.

I didn't want an exact historical replica and most of all RMC jackets are still unfortunately waaaay far from my budget, so I happily went with the Bronson.

the only concern I have with the jacket is that a little piece (the holder at the opposite seam of the zip, sorry for my poor English but I dunno how to say this) of the Talon zipper broke after one day of wear, anyway I believe it's more my fault than the maker's fault. the zipper was ultra stiff at the beginning and I used way too much strength to undo it rather than lubricate it.  Anyway I repaired it on my own, and now works fine again.

 

anyway the jacket seems to get a lot compliments among my everyday-not-to-sufu-high-standards friends. I guess I will have to buy another one soon for my 75yr old dad, who badly wants it too!

 

that's it!

Edited April 9, 2014 by volvo240thebest

[Bobbo]

Looks great Volvo! You just increased my B10-cravings some more. I need to find some proper post university employment soon so I can go on a shoppingspree. 

How much did you pay for it?

[volvo240thebest]

I bought a few things at the same time so I can't really tell how much was for this and that.. Anyway I think it should in the 110/130 eur ballpark if you buy it on it's own. the jacket itself was 600 CNY (70 eur) but then you have to add local shipping, proxy fees and EMS shipping.

[volvo240thebest]

sorry double post!

Edited April 9, 2014 by volvo240thebest

[Mighty Oak]

Thanks for that V240TB, you wear it well sir.

[volvo240thebest]

here's some bob dong jeans details. the cut is called N031 and it's inspired by the 1947 501 cut.

 

first of all I think I had to buy these because I found the brand name Bob Dong so funny that I really had to have a pair!  wonder if the guy behind the brand is aware of what Dong means. I hope so, I would appreciate him even more for the sense of humour!

 

denim close up 1

 

denim close up 2

 

Dong buttons

 

hidden rivets + chainstich construction

 

hidden coinpocket selvedge

 

leather patch

 

the detail that sold the pair to me (how stupid I am!) DONG red tab

 

red selvedge

 

chainstitch inseam construction

Edited April 11, 2014 by volvo240thebest

[volvo240thebest]

fit 1

 

fit 2

 

fit 3

 

all in all a nice pair of jeans, and a super deal for the money. the fabric itself it's not particularly fancy, quite smooth and even, but stil a bit hairy. I am not sure if the denim is sanforized or not. google translate says it's preshrunk, so possibly it's one wash unsanforized, still I got some shrink out of the first soak. 

 

best detail of the pair for me is the cut, I really dig it as I find it quite flattering on my body frame and the super high rise it's really confortable. tucked in shirts still look kinda goofy to me because of the high waist but probably it's only a matter of getting visually used to it.

I still haven't taken any measurements but I believe the fron rise is around 12.5, maybe even more..

 

the only concern I have with the service is that they advertise the facility of having the jeans hemmed for free but then the hem it's lockstitched. they said to me that they had to outsource the hem as my order arrived in the middle of some Chinese holiday so the inhouse tailor wasn't working. oh well.. I have plenty inseam lenght here so I will probably have those jeans further shortened in the future. probably the chainstitch hem will cost me almost as much as jeans. ahah! fuck it!

Edited April 11, 2014 by volvo240thebest

[C100]

DONG is a Chinese last name.

There is one 23oz heavy thick dong I'd like to get but I still have other two pairs of raw to break in, so maybe next time.

Edited April 11, 2014 by C100

[Maynard Friedman]

I thought that name rang a bell...

[bradl]

Lots of the stuff Dong's selling looks really nice. Interested to hear how these fair.

[Jambon]

I picked up a pair of Boncoura's today didn't know anything about them but a shop near my office in Soho sells them and now found this thread.

 

 

Will post some fit pics up later once home. 

[Maynard Friedman]

Nice Jambon. Is that Soho London or SoHo NYC? What's the shop and how much were they? These questions need to be answered!

[Jambon]

Nice Jambon. Is that Soho London or SoHo NYC? What's the shop and how much were they? These questions need to be answered!

 

Cheers. It is in London and the shop is called Universal Works on Berwick St. Cost £250 which I don't think is too bad considering they are natural indigo. My PBJ AI's cost more. 

[Maynard Friedman]

Thanks, I know Berwick St well and I saw those jeans on the UW site, never been to their shop though. We expect a full report in due course!

[themaster]

Boncura is a brand similar to. Omnigod , spellbound, eternal , orslow theyre pretty good and well made im not sure if the denim is oem though

[themaster]

Boncura is a brand similar to. Omnigod , spellbound, eternal , orslow theyre pretty good and well made im not sure if the denim is oem though

[Jambon]

Few more pics.. 

 

 

 

 

Raw and un-soaked and quite like the fit as is. Not sure on the weight but my guess is around 14oz. Impressed with them so far the only slight issue, from a picky denim person, is there is no selvedge on the inside of the coin pocket but there was on the cinch version they had in store. 

 

Went for the 30" waist but they measure 33" in raw and are a 32" inseam which is 2" shorter than my FCs and PBJs. 

 

Love the shade of denim and should make a nice summer jean. 

 

As for oem - you mean woven? - According to the spiel they use vintage looms and even stop if there is not enough moisture in the air, quite a perfectionist apparently. 

Edited April 17, 2014 by Jambon

[LFC4ever]

Interested you got these - I wanted the cinchback but they were really short got this from Universal:

 

Yes, they are quite short because they are made for the Japanese market currently as they are not really exporting to other markets.

 

One of our colleagues wears them and has washed them and thinks they shrink about an inch in the waist and a couple of inches in the length - yes this could be a problem!

 

inside leg was 82.5 cm in raw state on cinchback shorter on others (79cm)

 

[501XX4EVER]

volvo240thebest, "Bob Dong" is a genius name for anything. :D

[themaster]

Has anyone tried sassafras?