Unknown Japanese Brands

[Lorcan]

1 hour ago, MJF9 said:

@Lorcan looks really nice... I like the '27 features - rounded pocket flap, splayed collar and the small unbranded buttons... how's the fit?

Fit is pretty good, a touch oversized looking on me, but it's a larger size than most of my other jackets (except Slash Overalls 1946 which is super small/short for a tagged 46) so not unexpected. After a hot tub soak with plenty of agitation size 46 is

Shoulder 52.5 cm

Chest 62.5 cm

Length 62.5 cm

Sleeve 59.5 cm

so the sleeve length is a little shorter than the suggested shrinkage but otherwise all within range. I'll probably run it through a machine rinse cycle soon-ish but happy with the fit as is.

I managed to get back into calisthenics training since last October having had for like 10 years issues with elbow tendonitis. A few years focused on running and latterly doing more grip strength stuff and isometrics has kind of healed things up enough amazingly,  but that kind of training was also keeping me roughly the same size...  now I can do pull-ups again and training for muscle-ups, etc. this has blown up my upper back/shoulders in recent months so everything fits different now (ie armhole can be an issue kind of regardless of chest space). I'll probably have to sell some of my smaller things like SCSC 1945 jacket unfortunately 🥲. The Dad's is thankfully big enough but longer and looser through the midsection than I've previously been used to.

[julian-wolf]

23 hours ago, Lorcan said:

Dad's branded rivets. This jacket had me thinking about type I cuff sewing as it has more of a neat rectangle round the rivet than my other jackets.

Dad's at the top vs some others. Could be wrong, but I suspect the Dad's will be less prone to broken threads just in front of the rivet. Top line of stitching also doesn't wander across diagonally.

On one hand, I do like the aesthetic of Dad’s approach; on the other hand, I’ve never been inclined to think of the threads beyond the rivet breaking as a bug that needs to be fixed. The rivet’s there to hold everything together, after all

Of those examples, I think I personally like the one on the very bottom the best. The way that the top line of stitching wanders diagonally to the edge of the panel avoids the need for any back-stitching (unlike Dad’s approach, notably), and it mirrors the bottom of the fly of Levi’s jeans so well: picture that cuff next to the bottom of the fly of any late ‘30s 501s and it’s an almost perfect match, which I think is a lot more conceptual neat than a fresh clean rectangle

[Double 0 Soul]

Those sizes look good.. they are meant to be almost square.. my Silverstone from the 90s is a size 40 but mirrors that sizing with 56cm P-P and 56cm long..  a decade ago, the Typ1 cut strated to get longer, maybe because the FR and BR wasn't so high.  nowadays it looks like we're returning to a more vintage inspired cut.

[Lorcan]

2 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

On one hand, I do like the aesthetic of Dad’s approach; on the other hand, I’ve never been inclined to think of the threads beyond the rivet breaking as a bug that needs to be fixed. The rivet’s there to hold everything together, after all

Of those examples, I think I personally like the one on the very bottom the best. The way that the top line of stitching wanders diagonally to the edge of the panel avoids the need for any back-stitching (unlike Dad’s approach, notably), and it mirrors the bottom of the fly of Levi’s jeans so well: picture that cuff next to the bottom of the fly of any late ‘30s 501s and it’s an almost perfect match, which I think is a lot more conceptual neat than a fresh clean rectangle

Yeah agreed, thought it was interesting all the same as it wasn't something I'd spent much time thinking about before.

Bottom is Slash Overalls incidentally

2 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Those sizes look good.. they are meant to be almost square.. my Silverstone from the 90s is a size 40 but mirrors that sizing with 56cm P-P and 56cm long..  a decade ago, the Typ1 cut strated to get longer, maybe because the FR and BR wasn't so high.  nowadays it looks like we're returning to a more vintage inspired cut.

True and square's generally what I'm looking for when studying measurements. My issue these days is more that 56-58cm length looks good on me proportionally, but I'm struggling to fit 56-58cm ptp like I did 6 months ago. Should probably switch back to running 

[Broark]

Nice to see you took the jump @Lorcan, I've been thinking about grabbing a pair of the neppy '42 jeans.
Need to sell some other pairs first. Looking forward to some fit pics whenever you get around to them!

[redragon]

Pretty good deep dive into Uchida Housei

 

[Lorcan]

some fit pictures of the Dad's. Gave it a short/cold machine rinse cycle, lost another 0.5-1cm on the back, sleeves and shoulders, chest stayed the same.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

A new to me brand, Raggy Clothing

They have a 50s and a 60s fit

https://www.raggyclothing.jp/services-9

[Broark]

This is the brand from the former longtime Flat Head veteran Masaki Horiuchi, I'm planning on checking their stuff out soon when SE receives their stock.

[MJF9]

9 hours ago, Broark said:

This is the brand from the former longtime Flat Head veteran Masaki Horiuchi, I'm planning on checking their stuff out soon when SE receives their stock.

Running short on jeans mate? 😂

[Broark]

9 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Running short on jeans mate? 😂

Oh yeah you know it. 

[Double 0 Soul]

I thought i remembered Natural jeans but i couldn't remember them looking anything like this..

https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=p1181484933

£60.. fits like a 30" .. bit of damage to the hem 😍

Turns out i was thinking of Neutral

Anyone still have a pair of those?

Edited April 26 by Double 0 Soul

[Maynard Friedman]

^ @beautiful_FrEaK had some Neutral jeans but I believe he sold them. I think @LFC4ever was the first Sufu-ite to buy a pair. I’ve searched fruitlessly on Yahoo for some in the past. I think they were a short-lived production as they seem pretty rare

[Double 0 Soul]

I've just done a quick search of Mercari history and a pair of worn Neutral 300XX sold 3 months ago for £32

They have tigers on the patch.. maybe it's this patch that @beautiful_FrEaK was thinking of?

[Maynard Friedman]

You could be right

On 6/27/2013 at 5:16 PM, beautiful_FrEaK said:

And now to the details shots You will see it is a "real" repro. Although it is a '66  cut is has none of the typical '60s details

 

 

leather patch

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3820/9153184340_eb0b8d62c1_z.jpg

 

The red tab

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7348/9150958919_67dbd99837_z.jpg

 

"Levi's" arcs. a mix of Fullcount and Flathead

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3773/9153183846_381462387b_z.jpg

 

Offset belt loop

http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3741/9153183768_22328fabd8_z.jpg

 

Laurel leaf donut button

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7441/9150957997_54da41366a_z.jpg

 

And more donut buttons

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5509/9153183012_e29fb72696_z.jpg

 

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5498/9150957877_871c1f1fe0_z.jpg

 

Pink/red selvage

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5469/9150957385_09f6764aa2_z.jpg

 

Mood in the USA

http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5485/9150957141_1c10d2501c_z.jpg

 

[knucks]

Any jeans in the sub 30k yen range with nice arcs..?

[reubensangwich]

Neat Style Kiwamii WWII

These are meant to replicate a pair that’s been in storage since the 40’s, with a “disintegrated” patch and rusted top button, and I believe oxidized denim.
The denim is nice and hairy, and very streaky. The stitch work is lovely, looks like the hem roping will be great, and the roping on the top of the watch pocket looks promising as well.
They might be a bit affected for some, with the faux-aging, wonky watch pocket, and off-kilter tab, but that doesn’t bother me because the fit is great. 

Edited May 8 by reubensangwich

[Broark]

Those look good and they fit you well!
I always get confused, who makes them again? BoT, Denim Bridge or Little Hand?

[reubensangwich]

46 minutes ago, Broark said:

Those look good and they fit you well!
I always get confused, who makes them again? BoT, Denim Bridge or Little Hand?

Thank you! I unfortunately have no idea who makes them, I believe @Lorcan said this model was made by BoT, but the guy who I bought them off on Mercari had Denim Bridge in the description. 

[Lorcan]

Those ones are BoT I believe. Nice pick up reubensangwich!

The Denim Bridge models have brighter yellow stitching, and haven't ever had the destroyed patch treatment AFAIK?

Edited May 8 by Lorcan

[Broark]

Thank you both, the Neat Style stuff always confuses me.  I like it but I can't always keep it straight!

[Breadspace]

I got done with a pretty big cut recently, so I'm working on getting a few new pairs of pants with a more reasonable waist size. Starting it off with the sakura straight from Uchida Hôsei with a rainbow type 1 thrown in there for the hell of it. The straight is a little slimmer than I expected from the model photo, but it might just be because I've gotten used to wearing my now-oversized jeans for the last couple months. Jacket fit well, though I'm not sure I'll get much use out of it for a while with the summer coming.

I'm planning on getting one more pair of jeans, but still haven't really decided where to go from here.

[indigoeagle]

FOURDEN Mfg. x Store Core 106.

The store (I think) has issued a number of denim jeans and jackets with various denim manufacturers like Little Hand and Denim Bridge.
And also with Fourden Mfg., who is described as not a professional denim sewer, but a denim enthusiast, who does this as a hobby.

So recently an interim 506 repro with a pocket flap but only four buttons similar to the FW one, that @MJF9 has.
At JPY 35,200 a fair price. 
Interestingly it was just issued in size 44, but that is more the tag, because the measurements correspond more to a say size 48 or even 50, for the shoulder (58cm)  and chest (65cm) with the back length being relatively short at 61cm.
I think, it sold out quite quickly.

Some nice details like the HBT on the inside of the pocket flap and the hem is not chain stitch but single needle.
The loose threads are as has been discussed with other models a question of taste and can be easily altered.

 

Edited May 12 by indigoeagle

[Double 0 Soul]

Both of these pairs look great..

1001

 

 

1002

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Don't tell Full Count!

[Double 0 Soul]

I see a lot of early 90s era jeans with this^ arc configuration.. Delta Drive, Black.. ect

I think most of them are store jeans, i suspect they're all made by Warehouse and apart from the patch, i doubt there is much difference between any of them.

[mlwdp]

Was going to post this in the waywt thread but since this shirt is a staple now in my weekly wardrobe, decided against it. Will be interesting to see how this all fits as I pursue more weight loss.

Outfit is Phigvel.

 

[julian-wolf]

They're well outside the realm of what's usually considered here, but over the past few months I've picked up three "typewriter cotton" shirts from Yoko Sakamoto, and I like them quite a bit. They're cut oversized through the body (incl. shoulders), which I appreciate, and the neck and the sleeve length of their size L both fit me well—I find these to be the only two measurements that really need to be just right in practice, at least to my personal taste, so it all works out. The fabric is very light and tightly woven, and the one shirt that I've put through the dryer (the blue pop-over) has taken on a lovely crinkle. The construction and finishing seem well-considered and well-executed. MSRP is high, but I picked up two of these three for very reasonable prices second-hand, and there seem to be plenty of other options available on the usual marketplaces. I expect I'll get a good amount of wear out of these.

White typewriter cloth button-up, pictured with Kapital suit + Feaw frames + Duke belt:

 

 

Blue typewriter cloth pop-over, pictured with Evan Kinori suit + Feaw frames + Duke belt (sadly, no shots sans jacket):

[Broark]

Here's an under the radar one for you guys, I commissioned this pair of WWII replica jeans from KEGOYA. He is a hobbyist on Instagram and I was his first international customer.
His IG is linked here. I reached out to him about a month ago, and after exchanges handled through Google Translate to nail down the details he began production on my jeans.
I was able to select the fabric, button types, pocket bag material, tab placement, number of folds in the hem, even the width of the back pocket stitching. That's just what I can recall off the top of my head.
The belt loops, button holes and hems are all sewn by hand.
Waist: 38 in.
Front rise: 13.75 in.
Back rise: 17.5 in.
Thigh: 14.25 in.
Knee: 10.75 in.
Hem: 9.5 in.
Inseam: 33 in.

[julian-wolf]

If they bring you joy that’s what matters most, but I think we’ve taken the buying-wonky-WWII-jeans-from-“hobbyist”-seamsters thing way too far