Unknown Japanese Brands

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I would buy a Levin Scheme in my size...

[Double 0 Soul]

I almost did 10yrs ago when the price was ¥80k.. I was poised for a snipe bid then the auction finished 5mins early because  ‘early finish’ had been selected which I didn’t appreciate at the time.. oh well! 

Your kid will be a size 30” at some point.. just sayin  

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah I know but I'm not sure if he will appreciate a pair with his name on when he is a W30

That said, there also was a W33 some months ago, you can stillk find them on Mercari. But I don't find the W30 you mentioned. But when I check S01XX I find a lot of this Sub Culture brand which fetch crazy prices and the Muramasa jeans

[Double 0 Soul]

I’m down at B&Q buying a lightbulb.. 

I’ll link you up when I get back at work 

edit- here you go @beautiful_FrEaK 

https://zenmarket.jp/en/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m95522549868

Edited November 14, 2025 by Double 0 Soul

[MJF9]

10 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Sub Culture brand which fetch crazy prices 

£2,282 for the tux 😮

[MJF9]

there's a well worn pair of Levin Scheme up there too

[Double 0 Soul]

Some of the best packaging in the game.. ever!

Maverick's

'M' Stitch

Maverick Line up..

 

[Cold Summer]

Mr. Horiuchi, formerly one of the top guys at Flat Head (and who was basically my boss when I was there) recently started his own brand called Raggy Clothing, which so far has produced some jeans, tees, a leather jacket, and a very nice looking Type II. There's not a lot of info online about them yet that I can find, though it all looks very nice from what I've seen so far, most stuff on Mr. Horiuchi's Instagram. I haven't found anybody online selling the jeans yet, but I'll share more info if/when I get it.

[reubensangwich]

Man is this enticing, I haven't even considered making a purchase since the tariffs kicked in, but now I'm tempted. I've been on the lookout for another 507 in a slimmer cut since my OA version is pretty boxy on me, this might just be the ticket. My biggest issue with 507 patterns is that the pockets tend to be too tiny and placed too high on the chest, these seem to be well sized and fairly low. Thanks for sharing, @Cold Summer 

[Double 0 Soul]

Another one for the collectors..

 

https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m89806109987

[Double 0 Soul]

https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=c1215466582

Even the seller doesn't know what this is^ .. 

All i know is.. it's a damn nice jacket.

[Double 0 Soul]

On my phone.. it looks quite long in the body 

[Hopethisoneisnttaken]

5 hours ago, Double 0 Soul said:

https://zenmarket.jp/en/auction.aspx?itemCode=c1215466582

Even the seller doesn't know what this is^ .. 

All i know is.. it's a damn nice jacket.

That’s a Pretty price for a “mysterious” jacket

[Double 0 Soul]

Deadstock 90s Denim Boom repro.. they're by Plus Made from a shop named Galf in Morioka city 

https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m27363681408

These^ are the +10 -129 cut.. they did others +10 -007 cut for example.. but they both have 1952 embossed on the button.

Patch shows gorillas and a cross.. i've no idea why this^ one (including the tab) is white.

[Double 0 Soul]

On 11/14/2025 at 9:11 AM, Double 0 Soul said:

I’m down at B&Q buying a lightbulb.. 

I’ll link you up when I get back at work 

edit- here you go @beautiful_FrEaK 

https://zenmarket.jp/en/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m95522549868

These^ £900 Levin's have sold

edit- seller has feedback saying "they are genuine and still rigid, i intend to wear them for the rest of my life.. thank you very much"

Edited January 17 by Double 0 Soul

[Maynard Friedman]

A rare pair of Nylon jeans in size 31. They look to be a slim 60s cut.

[Double 0 Soul]

@Capsicum Fried Meat had a pair (a war model i think).. i wonder what they look like nowadays? this notification might summon him back

Edited January 17 by Double 0 Soul

[Broark]

I think these might've been posted at some point or another, but the Dad's Jeans made by Ginya Koubou look pretty nice.
They all seem to be the same (localized) price, and you can customize the pocket bag material / tab color (red or faded pink/white) across models.
The neppy fabric used on the 42 model is a bit excessive, but I like the back pocket shape and multiple thread colors.

Nice '46 model here.

[indigoeagle]

27 minutes ago, Broark said:

I think these might've been posted at some point or another, but the Dad's Jeans made by Ginya Koubou look pretty nice.
They all seem to be the same (localized) price, and you can customize the pocket bag material / tab color (red or faded pink/white) across models.
The neppy fabric used on the 42 model is a bit excessive, but I like the back pocket shape and multiple thread colors.

Nice '46 model here.
 

Nice stuff.

They also offer interesting type 1 versions: 1927 and 1946 and WWII ones.
Looks pretty good.
They seem to know what they're doing with them apparently often repairing vintage Levi's jeans.

 

some deets of their site on the 1927 type 1:
"This reproduction is based on a denim jacket from circa 1927.
While the number of these jackets was extremely limited at the time, definitive details are unclear, but it is believed that the chest pocket flaps were added around 1927-1928.

Notable features include smaller-than-normal 14mm front buttons, narrow front pleats, rounded pocket flaps, and a wider-than-normal collar.
Our workshop is reproducing sizes 46, 48, and 50 inches.

Fabric Made with 13.5oz selvedge denim from Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture.
The fabric's distinctive color is not black, but rather a deep navy blue, which develops a beautiful vertical fading texture as the color fades.

Buttons While typical denim jackets often use 17mm buttons, the 1927 Model uses smaller 14mm buttons, which are unmarked and painted white. Cinch Buckle Includes a steel cinch buckle. Note: Because it is made of steel, it will rust easily."

And on the 1946 one:

"1946 Model Denim Jacket
Product Details
In 1946, the country was freed from material shortages, and the number of front buttons was increased from four to five, and the chest pocket flap was reinstated.
This transitional model features wartime details, such as the buckle back, made with wartime materials.

Buttons The front buttons are DAD'S JEANS original 17mm tuck buttons.
Note: These buttons are made of iron and will rust easily.

Buckle Back The cinch buckle features the so-called "lily buckle," featuring the fleur-de-lis crest pattern used during wartime. The use of wartime materials recreates transitional details.
Note: These fleur-de-lis buckles are made of iron and will rust easily.

Attention to Thread The sewing thread is made from 100% cotton, which, like denim, will fade over time, creating a more vintage look. This model features consistent banana yellow stitching.

Product Details Material and Loom: 100% cotton denim, TOYODA G-type loom

Manufacturing Method: 100-year-old vintage sewing machine made in the USA

Country of Origin: Japan Copper Rivet (Washer) Rivet Feet, Copper Material"

The denim for the 1946 is the same as that for the 1944 jacket:
"The selvedge denim used at the time was woven on a Draper Corporation shuttle loom, but our workshop's "Toyota G-type loom" can produce denim that rivals it.

Fabric Specifications: Uses 13.5oz selvedge denim from Ibara City, Okayama Prefecture.
The fabric's distinctive character comes from its woven use on a "Toyota G-type loom," based on research and analysis of wartime fabrics from that era.
Compared to the 1943 War II model (S403xx), the fabric color is less dark, has a moderately rough texture, and a strong navy blue hue."

Edited February 18 by indigoeagle

[yung_flynn]

1 hour ago, Broark said:

I think these might've been posted at some point or another, but the Dad's Jeans made by Ginya Koubou look pretty nice.
They all seem to be the same (localized) price, and you can customize the pocket bag material / tab color (red or faded pink/white) across models.
The neppy fabric used on the 42 model is a bit excessive, but I like the back pocket shape and multiple thread colors.

Nice '46 model here.

These seem to be one of the rare smaller brands with long inseams, 92 cm in the raw state.

 I like the look of their Western shirts, especially the white one, and their 1930's denim pullover as well

[indigoeagle]

On 2/4/2025 at 10:00 PM, indigoeagle said:

Recently stumbled upon these: Good Old Co..
They have a 1943XX jeans.

And a 1942XX denim jacket.

 

 

This brand Good Old is now also offering a jeans and a jacket of 1937.

 

 

Prices are nearly JPY 50,000.
But then small batch, vintage sewing machines, probably one man operation.
Not sure, how maniacal they are about the details.

The question with these small number productions is the denim. Can they get their own? Or is that something that only the bigger ones like WH, TCB, SC, FW can afford?

They have also made a 1947 one for the anniversary of the Highnotch Izumiya shop.

 

[indigoeagle]

 

 

[indigoeagle]

[indigoeagle]

[indigoeagle]

On 9/5/2025 at 5:29 PM, indigoeagle said:

Strassburger

Saw this on Jah Haze/Organ's website.
Apparently they haven been making jeans for Japanese and international brands since the 70s.

Two jeans with zipper- a wider and a slimmer fit and a WWII jacket.

Vintage straight/50s model by Strassburger.

Japanese retail price: JPY 18,480.

 

 

[Lorcan]

Dad’s 1927 jacket arrived, more pics in due course.

Lead time was quick- think they say 1-2 months on the website but I got shipping notification after about 10 days. Sewing looks nice. Hard to judge the fit pre-soak. Like Freewheelers they back the chest pocket button with a strip of denim on the inside. I have Ooe’s preordered that I may wear it with as a 1920s tux.

Also I blame @Broark for mentioning them further up 😁

[Lorcan]

Post-wash

cinch strap is on the slightly shorter side. Solide buckle repro.

small diameter buttons as its a 1920s model

denim shows quite a lot of weft on the warp face compared to some - so quite dotty. Not much nep or slubbiness however (their 1942 model goes heavy with the nep).

chest pocket

Dad's branded rivets. This jacket had me thinking about type I cuff sewing as it has more of a neat rectangle round the rivet than my other jackets.

Dad's at the top vs some others. Could be wrong, but I suspect the Dad's will be less prone to broken threads just in front of the rivet. Top line of stitching also doesn't wander across diagonally.

[Ciabatta]

The Dad’a Jeans stuff looks good. Any pics of worn in pairs floating around?

[Lorcan]

Not really that I've seen, although it's not the easiest to search for. Lots of dads in jeans or even 'dad fit' jeans, lol.

There are some pics of the owner in faded WWII denim  https://www.instagram.com/p/Cawk747pf6L/?img_index=1 although I'm not sure which WWII model or if its the current fabric. 

I did find the About page interesting (obviously with the vagaries of translation eg. "da Lucizan" = Studio d'Artisan).

Quote

The silver shop is
It was founded in 1982.
From the age of 18, I have jumped into the world of vintage jeans (denim and clothing making), mainly training for 20 years of gold engraving, 35 years of leather craft, and 18 years of leather carving.
It has been 42 years since we pursued vintage jeans and made them.
Occasionally, there are requests from major jeans manufacturers and OEMs for jeans and leather jackets, but we make things that you want to brag casually and make things that can see the voice and face of the client.
I started a sewing industry at the age of 20, became independent at the age of 23, and until the age of 38, I sewed all kinds of products such as tsunagi, overalls, blouson, jackets, and bottoms.
I have acquired the technology of sewing anything, including how to attach a zipper, a jade edge pocket, a tailor's neckline seam, and a hand-sewn hatome hole.

From sewing guidance to renovation, he has experience in teaching more than 20 sewing factories, and he has been stepping on sewing machines for 42 years. This means that you can understand what kind of pattern (pattern) it is in the experience of repairing, and it leads to knowing which repair method is best for denim and leather jackets, and whether it can be fixed to the natural silhouette line. .

Friends and acquaintances who have been repairing jeans since before the vintage boom arrived,
I was re-requested by a second-hand clothing store, and I have also collected sewing machines from around the world before World War II to make vintage reprint jeans.
Thanks to you, I have been immersed in the world of denim for 42 years, and I have been able to interact with famous second-hand clothing stores and denim manufacturers. Now I can meet Levi's denim and jackets, and from those who have actually visited the Valencia factory I was also able to listen to the scenery in the factory. As a vintage fan, I am happy.
 
I grew up as the son of an aircraft store
From the premises of my home, I heard the rattling sound of the shuttle in the morning and evening.
In my memory, I'm not sure if it was a Sakamoto-style or a Toyota G-type shuttle.
No, but I was doing a good watchman for the broken thread of the shuttle.

When I was a child, I was sickly and could only attend school about 100 days a year, so there was no way I could get a good score on the test. Time passed while worrying about the future.
Seeing me like that, my mother thought that she might not be able to get married in the future, so she enthusiastically taught me how to sew, knitting, rag, how to dry laundry and cook since I was in elementary school.
It was worth it, but I was a delinquent with a tag, but I wanted to do something that I couldn't lose to others, and I wanted to take the best in something. From the age of 20, I jumped into the world of making clothes and denim. Even if I stepped on the sewing machine, I didn't feel any discomfort, and even if I worked until midnight every night, it didn't cause any pain. It was a start from a naked house like a rib family.
I managed to hold a workshop and classroom with one arm, even though it was small.
I thought it was my natural nature to step on the sewing machine. I'm getting into making jeans, and if I step on the sewing machine, I don't feel like losing to others! That's how much I made clothes and denim.
At that time, when it comes to replica denim manufacturers, I remember that it was about five years after Uchika, Da Lucizan, or Da Lucizan.
Da Lucizan is a large company and has capital. We start from the Abara family.
Then we decided to make replica denim that we didn't have anywhere else, so we bought and collected sewing machines from the United States little by little.
I have been working hard to make the best with this purchased sewing machine.
 
When I was 25 years old, my master in sewing was sewing B-3 and rider's leather jackets. At that time, for me, who was still in the beginning of sewing, there was no reason to be taught how to sew leather jackets, so I went home and practiced hard after watching my master sewing. Since then, I have been training in leather craft little by little, and I have been able to spare a little time in jeans and gold engraving classes, and 17 years have passed since the opening of the leather craft class.
I myself am also a collector of vintage jeans, jeans, ska jeans (Oriental), aloha (eastern), MA-1, etc., and I love jeans, ska jeans, and aloha very much.

 

[MJF9]

@Lorcan looks really nice... I like the '27 features - rounded pocket flap, splayed collar and the small unbranded buttons... how's the fit?