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canice

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I had one frame with toe overlap (which i usually don't have, being on bigger frames) and i fucken ate it so many times starting from a stop at lights, or track standing and kicking my tire, random stuff. be careful, just learn to watch out for it (learning curve ftw)

yeah, slowly circling corners at red lights caused me to eat it big time. i looked like a grade-a douchebag. will narrower pedals help the overlap?

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1) Bontrager wheels will crack.

2) Ksyriums over $600 are heavy for the price, and have so-so hubs.

3) HEDs on anything other than a track bike (i.e. ridden on the track) or a TT/ Tri bike are stupid.

4) When pedaling, your leg should be just shy of fully extended with the crankarm is inline with the seattube at it's lowest point.

5) CPSC has a defined distance from the wheel to the crank arm that, for the most part, eliminates most toe overlap issues. There are some bikes being sold, however, that are no in spec.

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you're seriously recommending deep v's or h+son rims for his trek road bike? thats so tacky and all about looks. I guarantee that both of those rims are completely lower quality than the stock bontragers. rockon, stick with road wheels NOT track wheels.

the guy has a fucking subaru avatar and wants "MODZ" so, yea, i think either of those rims would give him what he wants. what he NEEDS is obviously to put in miles, his bike isn't a fucking import car that you can just dump money into in order to make better.

the_state: unless you're clipping a pedal on the road as opposed to the front tire, narrow or wide doesn't really matter, just how far forward your toes are. even then, you still want proper fit (forefoot firmly on the pedal). toe overlap really won't matter once you get familiar, i only fuck up when i'm trying to mess around with tricks and going like 2mph. if i'm going through a slowish turn, i'll unclip my outer pedal in order to move my foot back a little bit.

m1sterko: mavic cxp-22's

http://www.bicyclewheelwarehouse.com/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=50

maybe velocity aeroheads or mavic open pro's, but those will run you more (but probably within your price range)

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yeah, slowly circling corners at red lights caused me to eat it big time. i looked like a grade-a douchebag. will narrower pedals help the overlap?

narrow won't do anything, short will. if you're 5'10" with a size 8, you're fine. i'm a 14, so even riding a 61 is iffy when it's a real track frame. luckily all of my bikes are big enough that it's not a problem.

When i didi have the frame with the toe overlap, it took me a good month to get it in my head that if i turn the handlebars a certain amount, i would hit my foot and fall over. time is really the only thing that helps, don't worry about looking like a newb douche bag. everyone starts somewhere, if someone laughs at you just say like "hey, what's your name? i'm new at this and would love to learn, lets go for a ride sometime."

throws em off every time

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My bike is a few cm short of having pedal overlap. It's fucking insane. You get used to it though, if I need to turn sharp i have to time it with the pedal strokes.

Downside is I am absolutely fucking horrible at foot down.

Tight as fuck geometry is worth all of the downfalls in my mind. So fun.

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i'm selling a set of black paul fixed/free hubs laced to machined celeste deep v's with black spokes. includes paul lock ring. paul hubs are some of the best in the business, if not the best. these are basically brand new. bought from someone in CA who said they didn't ride them (assuming 100 miles max). 100% straight and true. this is a ~$600 wheelset. $350 + shipping.

PM for pics.

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It just takes practice, you'll eventually get more and more comfortable with it, just look at one video of some asshole that's video taped himself doing a track stand to give you the idea and then keep trying it.

Have you put a break on your bike yet? If you're super noob and just learning the basics you'll probably want to do that.

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1) Bontrager wheels will crack.

WHAT.

4) When pedaling, your leg should be just shy of fully extended with the crankarm is inline with the seattube at it's lowest point.

If you word it like that, people are going to overextend their legs. The way the fitting works is that when your foot is completely flat (it will not be flat when it forms a right angle to the ground), you want a 15 degree angle at your knee.

5) CPSC has a defined distance from the wheel to the crank arm that, for the most part, eliminates most toe overlap issues. There are some bikes being sold, however, that are no in spec.

Stating that toe overlap is a sign of a bike that is "out of spec" is ludicrous. Cleat position, tire size, and crank length have a hell of a lot more to do with it.

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WHAT.

If you word it like that, people are going to overextend their legs. The way the fitting works is that when your foot is completely flat (it will not be flat when it forms a right angle to the ground), you want a 15 degree angle at your knee.

Stating that toe overlap is a sign of a bike that is "out of spec" is ludicrous. Cleat position, tire size, and crank length have a hell of a lot more to do with it.

Never seen a Bonti crack? I get at least 3 or 4 a month. All driveside, rear wheel. I'm not even a Trek dealer. Granted, my statement was a little bold, but, well, that's the internet. I won't recommend a Bonti, and check everyone that comes in for cracks at the eyelets.

I didn't say it was a sign that a given bike was out of spec. Some bikes being produced and sold as complete with a given tire and crank are out of spec, and in such instances, toe overlap is occuring. I know this because I work with a former frame designer for a certain manufacturer. My 'other' road bike has toe overlap. It's got the 80mm or whatever is required, so it's good. A particular lower-end steel 'commuter', however, is not so good.

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