Studio D'artisan

[S-Town]

d-rew12, Naoki and Pants Shop Avenue sometimes has SDA shirts made up 1 and even 2 sizes larger than their general offering. Might be worth looking.

 

**Looks like he went 3 sizes bigger for this one!!

http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SDA-15F-5542/

Edited August 13, 2015 by S-Town

[Foxy2]

I found their shirt measurements to be off/wrong - especially, in the case of pre-release measurements.

Wait for a retailer (likes Pirates or PSA) to have them physically in store to give you the actual measurements...

[bradl]

Have to say their new shop is looking sharp, along with this shirt.... If my jacket purchase falls through I may have to get this, but now foxy has me scared because I can't really tell the measurements by their online shop. Seem weird..

 

Edited August 13, 2015 by bradl

[itsbenhere]

Shirts dope!

[bradl]

Really wish it wasn't OW though. SDA OW is bloody harsh

[d-rew12]

d-rew12, Naoki and Pants Shop Avenue sometimes has SDA shirts made up 1 and even 2 sizes larger than their general offering. Might be worth looking.

 

**Looks like he went 3 sizes bigger for this one!!

http://pants-shop-avenue.com/item/SDA-15F-5542/

Appreciate the link! I'll check it out.

 

And Foxy, good call and appreciate the advice! 

[bradl]

That's a nice alternative too, Naoki will actually be able to measure a shirt for you too.

[Foxy2]

SDA D1677 W33

RAW - HOT SOAKED/STRETCHED

Waist: 43.5cm - 44/44.5cm

Front Rise: 27cm - 26.5/27cm

Back Rise: 36.5cm - 36cm

Thighs: 33cm - 33cm

Knees: 24cm - 24cm

Leg Opening: 22cm - 21/21.5cm

Inseam: 93cm - 87.5/88cm

This is after 1 evening, forcing myself into the soaked & dried jeans, which were already stretching in the waist during drying. It hurt a little...

My guess is that they will stretch a little further here and there.

Overall, the rise is short - similar to a 103. The leg is wider - similar to a 101.

[itsbenhere]

Overall, the rise is short - similar to a 103. The leg is wider - similar to a 101.

 

So perfect for me.

 

But god damn, where the fit pics at you bastards ?!

 

Also, weird that your 33 measures bigger in the waist than mpukas' 34?

[Foxy2]

Fit pics will come this WE - I stretched the waist after soaking...

[Foxy2]

OK, here we go - D1677 details shot after soaking, cheap & dirty...

[Foxy2]

Even some fit pics - pardon the grumpy look and the lack of proper footwear...

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 8, 2015 by hoggreaser

[Foxy2]

Thanks - hoggreaser!

[itsbenhere]

Yeah looks great!

 

So do you think this was the right size for you? I know you're a 32 in the 3005 easy, so since I'm a 33 in the 3005 I should probably go with the 34.

 

How's the denim compare to the sammy's you have?

[Foxy2]

I think that a W34 should work for you - but keep in mind that I had to stretch my pair while still damp until it was dry. (also, be aware that the top block, specifically the rise, is significantly different to a TFH 3005 - this pair will fit and feel different.)

When I finally put them on I still truggled closing the buttons. After some time it started to stretch and give in.

At the moment they are tight, but comfortable. They have stretched slightly beyond the raw measurements (in the waist).

I hope that further shrinkage in the future can be avoided...

Hopefully, I will do some comparisons over the weekend in broad daylight.

Edited August 14, 2015 by Foxy2

[edmond]

they fit like an eternal 872..

[bradl]

Nice fit Foxy, how does the rise feel? 

[Foxy2]

they fit like an eternal 872..

The texture of the denim seems very similar (despite the fact that 872 was made with synthetic indigo) and iirc with a similar cut as far as the legs go. The top should be different, though - I remember the 872 to have more rise.

Will do a direct comparison later...

Nice fit Foxy, how does the rise feel?

The rise (front & back) still feel short. Not brutally short, but modern short. I would expect the back rise to still stretch a bit over time.

[DhaDha]

Pheew. Thank god they stretch. My pair should fit me well then.

[mpukas]

quick fit pics of my D1677 size 34. None of my pics of the denim add anything that hasn't been shown in better pics above. Raw. 

 

 

Rear pockets are huge. 

[itsbenhere]

Those will be perfect after a wash.

[Foxy2]

Agree - lots of shrinkage to come, stretching will be a struggle, should turn out fine...

[Foxy2]

Here are 2 SDA shirts that I intend to feature as part of my Denim Tuxedo in DWC - a summer and a winter version...

[Foxy2]

OK, I found some time to pull out some reference pairs and compare them to the new SDA D1677...

Here is the baseline:

Reference ONI's - ONI-0211 & ONI - Awa Shoai

Reference Eternal's - 872 & 54727 - 877 was not at hand

Reference Samurai's - S0510AI-OGSP & S5000-KA & S5000AI-10SP & S5000AI-OGSP

Reference KMW 1950 AWA & PBJ AI-002

Unfortunately, my pair of Eight-G 804-XX was not at hand.

(Also, I did not reference them against any of my SugarCane AI models due to the difference in denim and cut.)

Edited August 16, 2015 by Foxy2

[Foxy2]

In terms of denim some of the reference pairs were significantly slubbier (especially, the persimmon pairs) and/or heavier.

In terms of cut and silhouette I noticed that almost all pairs have a similar leg opening and a straight leg cut. Significant differences only occurred in the top block and rise. The 50's inspired cuts with a longer rise were out...

The notarized cat-referee supervises and confirms the final selection...

...finally, approved!

The closest match should be the Samurai S0510AI-OGSP - the D1677 still had the shorter front an back rise. (The rise of the recently soaked D1677 might stretch a little given some wear.)

[Foxy2]

Also, I did make a comparison between D1677 and a 101 cut.

Here is my D1596 - supposedly a 101 in a 11oz denim. My pair of summer jeans...

...with a pair of D1677 on top.

The top block is slimmer and significantly shorter in front & back rise.

[Foxy2]

Sorry, for the post overkill - will stop now.

[DhaDha]

awesome, thanks for the comparison pics Foxy!

 

Just wondering, if speaking as a wearer and not collector, do you think it's still worth getting other Ai pairs from, say, Samurais after D1677? are they significantly different to warrant owning another pair, or are they similar enough that owning one is sufficient?

[Foxy2]

To me, this depends on 3 things:

- the cut

- the denim

- the dye

Some AI's don't add much bang to the jeans (like Kapital Zipang or FC NA) and it's just nice to have one and maybe you get a different color shade compared to a regular model.

Something like Eternal 877 is different on multiple levels.

In the case of D1677 it is a question of price, availability and preference in cut. You might be better up with one of the recent Samurais in terms of your preferred cut, but they were more expensive and might be hard to come by these days...

Edited August 16, 2015 by Foxy2