Denime

[Alec Leamas]

@beautiful_FrEaK thank you!

@Topnotcher I would definitely say it feels a touch lighter than 220A, I really love the fabric.

[Topnotcher]

Thank you guys !

[winteracr]

On 12/26/2024 at 3:04 PM, Alec Leamas said:

Few shots of the 220XX-54.

Pardon the mud splashes had just got back from a dog walk on these!

These fit great, there's something about this fabric that I love too. It's nothing above and beyond what Warehouse usually roll out, but there's a character to it that just sits right. It's less rough and textured than the WH banner denim, and it's thicker than dead stock blue which I find to be a touch toooo thin.

I'll take some pics laid flat and alongside the worn in 47's for comparison at some point soon.

@Alec Leamas would you recommend these or 220a more? any updates on how these have faded? i love how 220a's fade but also like a lighter fabric..
mostly wondering if they get the same level of contrast and marbling

Edited February 21 by winteracr

[blooming]

Since I don't have a proper type-3 repro (my Oni secret denim jacket is... its own unique beast), I decided to pull the trigger on a Lot 233. If I understand correctly, it's the same denim as the 220A. I know it's meant to complement lot 221, but I'm unsure if the three use the same fabric. My instincts tell me they are also the same as the type-2 jacket in the series. @beautiful_FrEaK I feel like you may know this answer. 

 

Anyway, I went with a size 38 per pre-wash measurements, and I'm hoping for a slim, almost shirt-jacket-type fit.

[Alec Leamas]

9 hours ago, blooming said:

Since I don't have a proper type-3 repro (my Oni secret denim jacket is... its own unique beast), I decided to pull the trigger on a Lot 233. If I understand correctly, it's the same denim as the 220A. I know it's meant to complement lot 221, but I'm unsure if the three use the same fabric. My instincts tell me they are also the same as the type-2 jacket in the series. @beautiful_FrEaK I feel like you may know this answer. 

 

Anyway, I went with a size 38 per pre-wash measurements, and I'm hoping for a slim, almost shirt-jacket-type fit.

@blooming - this section of the denime chart from a little while back says there are the same fabric....

Though of course @beautiful_FrEaK may have the definitive answer!

[Alec Leamas]

9 hours ago, winteracr said:

@Alec Leamas would you recommend these or 220a more? any updates on how these have faded? i love how 220a's fade but also like a lighter fabric..
mostly wondering if they get the same level of contrast and marbling

Hi @winteracr - I didn't get very far with the 54's before the Word of Mouth contest started, though the 47's came up beautifully very quickly before that. 

I think they could easily reach a similar level as the 220A's in a similar timeframe! The caveat being that with a slightly lighter fabric you may not get as tight/sharp creasing, and there's also the hint of brown in the weft to factor in - which actually I feel gave the faded areas a really nice warmth.

[Alec Leamas]

On 11/8/2024 at 11:39 AM, Alec Leamas said:

220XX-47 details

 

@winteracr this was in November, I'd bought them mid-August. I have no doubt the 54's will go the same way. I'm a bit spoilt for choice now and also prioritising the WMJ's most days but I will no doubt put some wear into the 54's through spring and summer.

@nick682 I believe also picked up both cuts, and may have more info for you

Edited February 21 by Alec Leamas

[beautiful_FrEaK]

5 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

@blooming - this section of the denime chart from a little while back says there are the same fabric....

Though of course @beautiful_FrEaK may have the definitive answer!

@blooming to add here, the 220A, 221 and 224 definitely used different denim for each pair. Or the batches of denim were so different, I don't know. That's why I think the chart is misleading.
Which denim they used for the jackets, I don't know. Never handled them

[nick682]

I have the 220A, 220XX-47, and 220XX-54.

My 47s have the most wear followed by the 220A (both are minimally faded). I have only tried on the 54s, those will be stored away for a while.  The 47s and 54s are size 31 and the 220A are 32.  The 220A denim is noticeably heavier/tighter.  I like the banner denim of the 47/54s much better than the 220A denim.  If I had to pick I'd go with the banner denim - It's very comfortable and I like the color.

[winteracr]

it's so counterintuitive, the 47s and 54s have "banner denim" but they seem to fade with relatively low contrast and 220A fades look very similar to how actual WH banner denim fades...
anyway, as much as I don't want blankets on my legs for summer in NYC, I went with the 220A...pray for me

[reallypeacedoff]

42 minutes ago, winteracr said:

it's so counterintuitive, the 47s and 54s have "banner denim" but they seem to fade with relatively low contrast and 220A fades look very similar to how actual WH banner denim fades...
anyway, as much as I don't want blankets on my legs for summer in NYC, I went with the 220A...pray for me

Good choice, 220A denim is like nothing else. It reminds me of APC somewhat but with that Denime marbling. I have worn mine on hot Cali days and no hotter than a usual pair of 14oz denim.

[PrettyBoyTony]

I don't get why if the 220axx is supposed to be a repro of 50s levis then why is it 15.5/15.9 oz? Shouldn't it be 14oz after washing? Seems like the weight would be something easy to replicate. Saying that they don't feel particularly heavy and soften up quickly 

[winteracr]

¯\_(ツ)_/¯ Every "repro" seems to take some creative liberties

[blooming]

The 220a and 224 both feel lighter in weight than the number suggests. @winteracr you'll be fine in NYC. I've never found mine too hot for LA weather (although the first 27 years of my life being spent in/around NYC tells me the humidity is REAL

 

@beautiful_FrEaK @Alec Leamas Thank you both for the info! I found that chart confusing too, so I wanted to ask y'all. I got the jacket today. Fit is unwashed, and I can tell it will slim up quite nicely. My 220a and 224 both seem to have slightly different denim textures. The jacket SEEMS similar to the 220a denim, but it's hard to tell in the raw state. 

Edited February 22 by blooming

[CharlieMike]

I need some advice on the Lot 220XX 1954. Could someone help me with sizing? I have the Lot 221 Big E in W32, the WH DSB 1947 in W32, and the Resolute 714 in W33. What size would you recommend for the 220XX 1954? I’m hesitating between W31 and W32. Does anyone have measurements? Thanks for your advice.

[CharlieMike]

Usually, Denime uses a selvedge weave in this pattern: ↖↗↗↖, like in the Lot 220A. I noticed that in the ‘Vintage Banner’ denim lots—220XX-54 and 220XX-47—the weave used was like this: ↗↗↗↗, similar to the 1950s 501XX. Does anyone know if this is the first time Denime has used this ↗↗↗↗ weave?

[Cold Summer]

New Denime sweatshirt, after a wash and dry. Love the fit, jersey is super soft and the perfect weight for wearing over a tee, as shown, or layering. Denime’s jeans aren’t long enough for me but I’m happy to wear their tops. 
 

Edited February 24 by Cold Summer

[Alec Leamas]

On 2/23/2025 at 12:47 PM, CharlieMike said:

I need some advice on the Lot 220XX 1954. Could someone help me with sizing? I have the Lot 221 Big E in W32, the WH DSB 1947 in W32, and the Resolute 714 in W33. What size would you recommend for the 220XX 1954? I’m hesitating between W31 and W32. Does anyone have measurements? Thanks for your advice.

Hi @CharlieMike, I went with my normal WH size for mine, so I would suggest 32 for you too!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

8 hours ago, CharlieMike said:

Usually, Denime uses a selvedge weave in this pattern: ↖↗↗↖, like in the Lot 220A. I noticed that in the ‘Vintage Banner’ denim lots—220XX-54 and 220XX-47—the weave used was like this: ↗↗↗↗, similar to the 1950s 501XX. Does anyone know if this is the first time Denime has used this ↗↗↗↗ weave?

The Leepro 101B I own from the Orizzonti era has also just one direction. It's LHT though. 

But then, hopefully without sounding like a disappointed fanboy: current Denime has next to nothing in common with old Denime. So better compare it with Warehouse if you want to have a reference. 

[blooming]

233 jacket and 224 jeans. The denim seems very, very similar from a weight/texture standpoint. No information online confirms that they are the same; some seem to contradict it. 

Size 38 shrunk nicely to the exact fit I was looking for—50 cm in the chest, 43 cm in the shoulders, and about 64 cm in length. 

[blooming]

Love this jacket. I can wear it with any pair of jeans in my closet, and it looks... correct. Knowing how fast this denim fades, I'm sure I'll see some fun wear and tear soon.

[yung_flynn]

On 2/28/2025 at 7:16 PM, blooming said:

Love this jacket. I can wear it with any pair of jeans in my closet, and it looks... correct. Knowing how fast this denim fades, I'm sure I'll see some fun wear and tear soon.

I really like that Type 3. I have the Type 2 (232) and it gets a lot of wear in my office.

濃紺 毛羽立ち 旧 Denime ドゥニーム 1937年 501 SXX w32 オリゾンティ デニム ジーンズ D-HG1118 革パッチ 真空 ビンテージ 大戦 66xx USA item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

^ 10th Anniversary model in 32/28 in very good condition?

[blooming]

Oh wow @yung_flynn, that 30s pair is tempting. However... I just acquired a deadstock Orizzonti-era black 66 pair that I'll snap some pics of soon. 

 

Edit- Also- your 232 looks great! The denim is so well suited to being a jacket.  

Edited March 5 by blooming

[Maynard Friedman]

Unfortunately the inseam on that 30s pair is short - 71cm, hence the relatively low price.

[yung_flynn]

37 minutes ago, blooming said:

Edit- Also- your 232 looks great! The denim is so well suited to being a jacket.

Thanks! That denim also fades quickly in jacket form. I can see quite a lot of electric blue in the arm creases and seams without having washed yet.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'm always surprised how many of these 10th anniversary jeans are still around after 27 years and many in deadstock condition. 

You hardly find 15th anniversary models.

[Maynard Friedman]

Perhaps more 10th anniversary pairs were made than 15th anniversary? There may have been a surplus of 10th anniversary pairs so a decision was made to produce less of the 15th.

[MJF9]

1 hour ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Unfortunately the inseam on that 30s pair is short - 71cm, hence the relatively low price.

Shame, great jeans.... good prompt for me to wear mine again!

[blooming]

66B (Orizzonti-era), size 33, deadstock w/ tags. The pocket tag doesn't say Orizzonti on it like my Kyoto's, but the retail tags had it. I gave it a hot soak/hot wash/air dry. The pre-wash waist measured 87cm and shrunk to 81cm. I can see what you mean @beautiful_FrEaK- the 224 denim is definitely aiming to replicate this fabric. The fit is nice, as if I just sized up 1 or 2 on my 224, which is no surprise. I'll try to get a fit pic at some point.

 

[CharlieMike]

Le 24/02/2025 à 17h25, Alec Leamas a déclaré :

Salut@CharlieMike, j'ai opté pour ma taille WH normale pour la mienne, donc je suggérerais 32 pour vous aussi !

@Alec Leamas 

Thank you, indeed I think the W32 should be perfect. Does it fade well?