Denime

[Broark]

Good to get some feedback from our resident Denime expert, I've always thought this would be the case based on the product / fade photos.
I still find it strange that WH purchased Denime in the first place, almost like they only wanted to use it as a new sub-line.

[ATWM]

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Recently I checked out the Denime 220XX-47 in person to get a feel for this new direction Denime/warehouse is going.
They are fine jeans, I'll give them that and I don't want to discredit them. But they are not really Denime anymore. All the designs, the denim and everything just feels like Warehouse. It's just the patch, tab and hardware saying Denime and that's it.

I like Warehouse as a brand, don't get me wrong. They just don't create the "I wanna buy them"-feel.
This strengthens my initial opinion to let go of the new Denime.

I will probably continue to look for some vintega/deadstock old Denime but that's it then.

I like your deep pursuit of one brand for the most part, there’s an appeal there for me (I am just genuinely torn between my 3 loves of Tender, Freewheelers and Ooe and can’t commit..yet).

I’ve got one pair of WH and while I like most everything about them and they’re at a great faded stage, more than any other pair they feel like they were made to show their age quickly, at the real expense of quality. It could just be my pair, but I can’t get past it. The other thing is for whatever reason they strike me as the most dead ringer Levi’s you can find out of all the options - and I actually like the little flairs of differentiation in other makers. Modern Denime sort of struck me in the same way, though I’ve never handled a pair. 

[PrettyBoyTony]

3 hours ago, ATWM said:

I like your deep pursuit of one brand for the most part, there’s an appeal there for me (I am just genuinely torn between my 3 loves of Tender, Freewheelers and Ooe and can’t commit..yet).

I’ve got one pair of WH and while I like most everything about them and they’re at a great faded stage, more than any other pair they feel like they were made to show their age quickly, at the real expense of quality. It could just be my pair, but I can’t get past it. The other thing is for whatever reason they strike me as the most dead ringer Levi’s you can find out of all the options - and I actually like the little flairs of differentiation in other makers. Modern Denime sort of struck me in the same way, though I’ve never handled a pair. 

You think Warehouse and Denime are the most closest to old levis? What makes you say that?

[ATWM]

7 minutes ago, PrettyBoyTony said:

You think Warehouse and Denime are the most closest to old levis? What makes you say that?

Not Denime, can't say because I haven't had them. 

And I didn't even say old Levi's - just Levi's in general. Which is to say, my WH pair reminds me the most of older non-selvedge 501's and 511's I've had (that are long gone), from the the denim itself to the shallower pocket bags and back pocket shape and the overall fit and feel. One exception being the cotton stitching on the WH pair.  I'm sure this notion could be picked apart, but just they just remind me the most of them out of anything else. I don't have any vintage pairs to compare with, so I can't say I would say the same about those. 

Edited May 2 by ATWM

[Double 0 Soul]

15 hours ago, ATWM said:

I like your deep pursuit of one brand for the most part..

'deep pursuit of one brand' .. for the moment

I'd bet folding money that b_F wont own any Denime by 2028..

[beautiful_FrEaK]

1 hour ago, Double 0 Soul said:

'deep pursuit of one brand' .. for the moment

I'd bet folding money that b_F wont own any Denime by 2028..

How much are we talking?

[Double 0 Soul]

Erm.. less than you sold the Samurai collection for but more than you sold the CSF collection for 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I still have one CSF 😉

But for real, selling all Denime will never happen 

[Talan]

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I still have one CSF 😉

But for real, selling all Denime will never happen 

If you can’t even know the next moment, how can you ever speak of something as final as ‘never’? 🤣

[beautiful_FrEaK]

That's more of a philosophical question, right?

Anyway, I still own my very first pair from 2008. So why sell them before 2028 and lose against @Double 0 Soul?!

[blooming]

I "get" the difference between old and new Denime (I have a couple of Orizzonti-era pairs and then Warehouse-era 220A, 221, 224, and 233 jacket), and I do very much see them as different companies, sort of in line with b_F. 

 

I love them both—New Denime under Warehouse, particularly the first run of the 14.5oz denim seen in the 220a, 221, and 233, since the denim has a buttery but substantial handfeel and fades beautifully. The Orizzonti pairs I have, the Kyoto and black 66s, are way more packed with character in the way of flawed stitching and more textured/irregular denim. Neither is better. You could easily argue that the Orizzonti, and therefore the Shins and Wego era, are of a lower manufacturing quality than the current run under Warehouse, since consistency is variable. Still, those details we appreciate, at least on this forum. That goes to say that Denime has changed hands and evolved through different eras of ownership and manufacturing, but has never fallen out of place as an influential and essential brand in the reproduction-focused denim world.

 

I love all Denime. From Hayashi-san owned and operated, all the way up to the Shiotani brothers taking the reins and giving us their interpretation of the classics. If the newer Denime doesn't appeal to you, that's fine, and I get it. There's deadstock from all eras if you know where to look, and that's the beauty of this hobby. Thanks for listening to my TED Talk. 

Edited May 3 by blooming

[JohnM]

I should know the answer to this, but not sure I do.  How does new Denime differ from Warehouse?  Is it different enough to distinguish it from Warehouse's current lineup?

[Double 0 Soul]

https://zenmarket.jp/mercariproduct.aspx?itemCode=m59671364451

[frank]

Man, that back length kills it though, 64cm on a size 40. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

The price is the bigger killer IMO  

[yung_flynn]

Some cool Orrizonti era Type 1 and Type 2 jackets for decent to good prices in somewhat reasonable sizes, including some extremely cropped Type 2's. Some of these are pre-1997 too without Orrizonti printed on the tag.

DENIME 旧ドゥニーム 90s デニムジャケット ジージャン 2ndタイプ 507 オリゾンティ 濃紺 M （w-8420706） item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

DENIME 旧ドゥニーム　オリゾンティ　506XX 1st 44 　検）ウェアハウス　コナーズ　TCB　フルカウント　マッコイズ　506　507　557　501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

Old DENIME Denim 507XX 2nd 44 Skin Patch One Wash Degree Super Beautiful Inspection Warehouse Connors TCB Full Count 506 577 501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

Old DENIME Denime 507XX 2nd XL Paper Patch Unused Inspection Warehouse Connors TCB Full Count McCoys 506 577 501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

There's a well worn, but good condition size 44 Orrizonti-era DNM 101j too for ca. $100 USD

旧DENIME ドゥニーム 101-Jタイプ 44　オリゾンティ 検）ウェアハウス　コナーズ　TCB　フルカウント　マッコイズ　506　577　501 item details | JDirectItems Auction | One Map by FROM JAPAN

(I went to close an old tab on my desktop and got sucked into a jacket wormhole, as evidenced by this post and my Sugar Cane M series one).

 

[aho]

 

[indigoeagle]

On 5/27/2025 at 6:02 AM, aho said:

Interesting video.
They explain how the WH Denime banner denim will first develop dots, that then connect to vertical fading.

Also before WH apparently wasn't working with Kurabo. But through their restarting Denime they got into a relationship with them.

[Maynard Friedman]

A question for @beautiful_FrEaK (or anyone else who can answer it), which I know has probably been asked and answered before, so apologies:

On the Denime tag, does the code D-HG 1118 represent the Orizzonti or Shins ownership era? I understand that Orizzonti was before Shins too, chronologically.

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Maynard Friedmanit represents the Orizzonti era. In 1998 the tag was changed to Orizzonti. D-HG-1118 was before that 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yesterday there was a Wrangler repro on Yahoo Auction. One-wash, size 34.

1000¥ and 3 hours running. Anybody from here bought it?

[Maynard Friedman]

12 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Maynard Friedmanit represents the Orizzonti era. In 1998 the tag was changed to Orizzonti. D-HG-1118 was before that 

Many thanks Tilmann, and am I right in thinking that Shins came after Orizzonti?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Totally right 👍

[PrettyBoyTony]

Wearing my 220s today

[PrettyBoyTony]

Is the denim for the 47xx & 54xx 14oz after washing? I'm seeing conflicting info some sites saying 14oz unwashed others saying washed.

Also does anyone have any recent photos how the fabric ages now it's been a few months? 

[UkeNo]

@PrettyBoyTony Listed as 14oz. 
Edit: Screen shot of the full page. 

Edited Thursday at 07:49 PM by UkeNo

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Rumor has it that Kurabo is closing mills and therefore the Warehouse x Kurabo work for Denime will stop.

They are releasing a "special edition" Denime 220A. Just the 220A but sealed in a plastic bag.

Seen here

https://www.instagram.com/p/DKonKoNJMGh/?igsh=ZDV3OTBuazFidHZl

 

The other pair looks like a 20th Anniversary model, no idea why it is posted here as well.

[aho]

^Wow, sad to hear! Which one of us is going to take an apprenticeship to keep the mills going in Japan?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

That's seems to be exactly the problem. Not enough people

[Maynard Friedman]

So not only are Japanese jean manufacturers repro’ing old Levi’s, now Japanese denim mills are repro’ing Cone’s business decisions!