Denime

[Alec Leamas]

220XX-47 fit

At the very slimmest of the spectrum of fits for me, but comfortable nonetheless.

Wearing the FC 0105’s immediately prior to this pair probably emphasised that!

[Alec Leamas]

Some more angles of the 220XX-47. I'm really pleased with these, and going to make them my daily for a while.

[Alec Leamas]

On 5/27/2024 at 10:36 PM, yung_flynn said:

I kind of like this table graphic that Denime made, including some of their new models. The auto translation of the description is a bit rough though. I feel like they are trending into Warehouse-style nomenclature, which I find a bit confusing. Most everything is some variation of lot 232 or 233. https://www.instagram.com/p/C7eeN6pv2I-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

I have just seen that Warehouse updated the Denime graphic and have now shared it on the blog on their site, this version makes a bit more sense!

[NilsLW]

What is the difference between the 224 and the 224-66? Different denim but same fit?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Fit should have been the same but the 224-66 comes up slimmer (especially legs). I noticed it in the size charts of BEARS and Naoki confirmed this as well.

[reallypeacedoff]

So is there a 220A and a 220A Offset XX?

[NilsLW]

@beautiful_FrEaK Thanks! Good to know, I've been wanting to try the 224 when my SC 66 wears out. I'll order the regular 224 then since I prefer the slightly wider leg.

Edited August 30 by NilsLW

[Alec Leamas]

A couple photos of the 220XX-47 fabric in the sun at the weekend and one from today, it’s developing at quite the pace and the fit is evolving nicely too. Lovely pair of jeans. Real classic “jeans” jeans, one might say.

 

I haven’t quite captured it here but there is a brownness to the reverse side of the fabric.

Edited September 5 by Alec Leamas

[yung_flynn]

Here are the detail shots of my pair of Kyotos that I promised a while ago. I wanted to get them done before they start to faded too much. I’ve worn them off and on for the summer (probably 10-15 times) but I see them getting some more use now that it’s getting cooler

[jeash90]

On 8/19/2024 at 7:38 AM, Alec Leamas said:

220XX-47 fit

At the very slimmest of the spectrum of fits for me, but comfortable nonetheless.

Wearing the FC 0105’s immediately prior to this pair probably emphasised that!

@Alec Leamas, these look great! Bears says shrinkage is about 5-6cm in the waist and 6-7cm in the inseam. Did that seem to be on par with the shrinkage you experienced if measured?

[Alec Leamas]

On 9/18/2024 at 3:42 AM, jeash90 said:

@Alec Leamas, these look great! Bears says shrinkage is about 5-6cm in the waist and 6-7cm in the inseam. Did that seem to be on par with the shrinkage you experienced if measured?

Hi @jeash90 sorry for the delay I've been on holiday this week!

They are indeed great, I've worn them just about every day since I got them and I am very much enjoying them.

So I bought these one-washed direct from Warehouse, so I can't comment on the initial shrinkage - I did note though that when I received them Warehouse's description on first wash shrinkage was accurate. 

Here's some measurements for you - the first number is the Warehouse measurement minus what they've suggested for shrinkage in each measurement, and the second measurement is the one I've just taken now, having washed them 1 week ago and worn them every day since (so I would guess that they've stretched out in every dimension as much as they're going to - I've mountain biked, hiked, barbecued etc in them this week)

[L32 / Size34] 
Waist (W) - 83cm // 82cm
Thigh (T) - 31cm // 32cm
Front rise (F) - 30.5cm // 32cm
Back rise (B) - 42cm // 42cm
Hem width (O) - 21.5cm // 22cm

Not bothered with the inseam as I had Warehouse hem them before sending.

PS. If buying direct from Warehouse is an option, my experience buying one-washed and their in-house hem was a very good one - I'll share some photos of how they're looking soon, probably after their next wash!

[jeash90]

On 9/20/2024 at 2:23 PM, Alec Leamas said:

Hi @jeash90 sorry for the delay I've been on holiday this week!

They are indeed great, I've worn them just about every day since I got them and I am very much enjoying them.

So I bought these one-washed direct from Warehouse, so I can't comment on the initial shrinkage - I did note though that when I received them Warehouse's description on first wash shrinkage was accurate. 

Here's some measurements for you - the first number is the Warehouse measurement minus what they've suggested for shrinkage in each measurement, and the second measurement is the one I've just taken now, having washed them 1 week ago and worn them every day since (so I would guess that they've stretched out in every dimension as much as they're going to - I've mountain biked, hiked, barbecued etc in them this week)

[L32 / Size34] 
Waist (W) - 83cm // 82cm
Thigh (T) - 31cm // 32cm
Front rise (F) - 30.5cm // 32cm
Back rise (B) - 42cm // 42cm
Hem width (O) - 21.5cm // 22cm

Not bothered with the inseam as I had Warehouse hem them before sending.

PS. If buying direct from Warehouse is an option, my experience buying one-washed and their in-house hem was a very good one - I'll share some photos of how they're looking soon, probably after their next wash!

@Alec Leamas, no worries, hope you had a good trip and thanks for the follow up! I appreciate the measurements and hope to follow up in here if I get some.

[vIGGiou riou]

220A

[Alec Leamas]

Anyone going in for the 220XX-54?

https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=179512068

Despite some sincere and intense yearnings, I will not be, not this round anyway - I will likely pick them up on a later restock (depending heavily on what Warehouse produce next year for the 30th anniversary!)

[beautiful_FrEaK]

What's the difference on those to the 47 model? It uses the same Baner denim (from the 1920s/1930s). So probably just a slightly tweaked cut and some other thread colours?

[Alec Leamas]

That's probably about it yes, I'm imagining fuller through the leg, varied stitching colours and spotted on the photos the rear belt loop is offset, but not diagonal like the Offset model. Can't check the dimensions yet though because I can't see a size chart anywhere.

I think the banner denims are different for each of the models? Though I may have misunderstood that. I thought the intention was to produce a fabric and a cut that matches the period.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Ah yes, the different position of the back belt loop.

I understand the Banner Denim as follows: based on the Levi's advertisement banner Warehouse owns (from the 1920s/1930s), they had Kurabo reproduce it. The Kurabo version has a brownish weft opposed to the older Banner denim version made by another mill. And they use this Banner denim on different models without paying attention to the period.

[PrettyBoyTony]

Is there any good examples of how the banner denim for Denime fades? The 10% brown cotton blend sounds interesting 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

It's been just released in August. Unless Denime/Warehouse hasn't posted some progress pics (of which I'm not aware) you won't find examples.

[indigoeagle]

3 hours ago, Alec Leamas said:

Anyone going in for the 220XX-54?

From the measurements they're much bigger than say the Lot 220A, about one size bigger.

For the NW Lot 220A 34 waist was 88-90cm, for the XX54 it's 94-96cm. Rise and thigh look similar. Leg opening is a bit bigger.

[Mtvare]

I speak as someone who owns only one pair of Warehouse jeans and no Denime, with no special liking for or animus against either company but...

Does anyone else think Warehouse have basically ruined Denime? I know Denime has been through a series of incarnations already and aficionados might think it long since had its day,  but it just seems mad now. Without ever having handled any,  I knew basically what the 220xx was. I might have sprung for a pair at some point. Now every time I look on Bears there's another epicycle on an iteration of a version of it. It makes my head spin. Warehouse's numbering and style variations are hard enough to keep track of even if you're a fan. Did they have to do the same thing to Denime?

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

I also only own one pair of WH and no Denime. (Also, a WH jacket I ordered from Celluloid back in the spring that doesn't come til this winter).

I'm really torn on my WH pair. On the one hand I quite like them - the cut is solid and so are the details, but they're the least durable pair of Japanese jeans I've had by a long shot, and also the fastest fading, most drastic shrinking and the worst pocket bags too. They almost feel designed to fall apart, as if that's part of the charm (which it is I concede). I like mine as faded as the next dude, but I also still like that durable workwear part of them to exist.

The pair I own is a denim that I think isn't offered that much - I think it's possibly the same design Signet had a contest with, I just I got it before the contest as a 1003xx 1946 model. It's a pretty crunchy denim, one that feels a bit heavier and stiffer than the 14.5 oz that it's rated at. It's one that is a bit different than most others I own. It's not my favorite but it's unique. I can't speak to them ruining Denime but I can say that what they're doing with the brand holds no personal appeal to me, and that what they're doing does seem to all blend together in a way that feels much too close to the cannibalizing, cyclical fashion industry cycle that - theoretically - this hobby encourages getting away from. I get that lots of the brands here have A/W and S/S lines, but the machination behind some of them feels a little more curated or intentional. 

[blooming]

I ignore the hype, release cycle, and webshops and simply enjoy what I own. Saying that Warehouse "ruined" Denime because they are releasing a variety of iterations of the products in a short time period is a pretty narrow definition of "ruined," IMO.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Ruined is a very strong word but somehow this "new Denime" made me less interested in the recent releases.

When Warehouse took over I was very excited. Knowing they wanted to go back to the origin and rumors have it that Hayashi-san helped them (inofficially of course).
The "new" XX denim they made for the 220 faded extreme quickly. Allegedly this is how the first run(s) of XX denim faded. I don't know. The XX denim I have on my pairs is of course from later runs and this faded rather slow. The fit of the 220 is very different to the original XX model (but after all I liked the fit, so I won't complain too much).
All in all, these releases feel very Warehouse-like but with a different patch, red tab and hardware. Original Denime felt more rugged/unrefined. Even the 220 model now with different denims, changes of cut is totally Warehouse-style.

In that regard, the 30th Original Line was a very good product and got the sense of "old Denime" very well (just don't talk about the 3-6 years under Wego before they introduced the original Line, they watered down Denime).

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

10 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

but they're the least durable pair of Japanese jeans I've had by a long shot, and also the fastest fading

I was thinking about this for some time now.
Especially after fading my Denime 220 and seeing so many examples of Warehouse jeans which have strong fades after a short time: do they design it like this so people are satisfied quicker and can start a new pair earlier? Or do they just save indigo and dye less to save money (in the current economic sitaution in Japan)?
Also my Sugar Cane SC 1946 fade rather quick. Or I just got better at wearing jeans...

[indigoeagle]

1 hour ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

All in all, these releases feel very Warehouse-like but with a different patch, red tab and hardware. Original Denime felt more rugged/unrefined. Even the 220 model now with different denims, changes of cut is totally Warehouse-style.

In that regard, the 30th Original Line was a very good product and got the sense of "old Denime" very well (just don't talk about the 3-6 years under Wego before they introduced the original Line, they watered down Denime).

What were the cuts like?
I've checked the measurements from the original line from their then site and their rises were pretty low. For a W34 for the 66 26.5cm, 66XX  25.5 and for the XX 27.5cm.

Hayashi's 710 in a similar W36 has a 30cm front rise.

The WH Lot 220 for W34 has a front rise of ca. 33cm.

Were they always more modernin their cuts rather than repro?
But they had all these models, like 30s with cinch back, WWII- perhaps repro with a modern twist?

[Alec Leamas]

My view is I love Warehouse and most of the stuff they do, thus I also therefore love their iteration of Denime.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

21 minutes ago, Alec Leamas said:

My view is I love Warehouse and most of the stuff they do, thus I also therefore love their iteration of Denime.

The grace of late birth 😅😉

[beautiful_FrEaK]

37 minutes ago, indigoeagle said:

What were the cuts like?
I've checked the measurements from the original line from their then site and their rises were pretty low. For a W34 for the 66 26.5cm, 66XX  25.5 and for the XX 27.5cm.

Hayashi's 710 in a similar W36 has a 30cm front rise.

The WH Lot 220 for W34 has a front rise of ca. 33cm.

Were they always more modernin their cuts rather than repro?
But they had all these models, like 30s with cinch back, WWII- perhaps repro with a modern twist?

All the info you need is here : 

But yes, lower rise than the WH version, but more hip flare/wider hips.
In general a rounder top block. At least for the XX model. The 66XX was also quite trim back then.
I would still say it was a repro brand and not modernized.

[Mtvare]

1 hour ago, Alec Leamas said:

My view is I love Warehouse and most of the stuff they do, thus I also therefore love their iteration of Denime.

Which makes total sense, but also kind of reinforces a point I was trying to make - isn't Denime just an extension of Warehouse now? (And I don't think that was inevitable - they could have taken over the brand without assimilating it so thoroughly to their own. Seems a shame to me.)