Tanuki Japan

[edmond]

Yeah man of course they meed to change due to a different denim

[greathoudini]

I'm looking forward to the review. 
Unlike most people I'm pretty excited because of the more modern fits. They remind me of apc but with better denim, which is a good thing to me.

What is your first impression?

Edited September 6, 2016 by greathoudini

[garden gnomes in space]

i wasnt aware they even had a "normal" cut.  Cool, looking forward to the review!

[mikecch]

I'm looking forward to the review. 

Unlike most people I'm pretty excited because of the more modern fits. They remind me of apc but with better denim, which is a good thing to me.

What is your first impression?

 

Had been taking some pre-shrink photos earlier and looked over the jeans pretty carefully - no defects, which is great.

I now have 4 pages of notes for the review...

 

The Retro denim is actually quite interesting and technical, but less "obvious" compared with the Natural denim. In some ways the Retro fabric reminds me of some of Cone's special runs from Roy I've had the pleasure of experiencing or seeing before, only a bit heavier.

 

At first glance, the make is technically very good - they have chosen a neater finish all around, compared with some other Japanese brands - not better or worse, just a fairly different vibe.

I get what people are saying in terms of similarities to Momotaro, but seeing and handling it in person the detailing and spirit is different - I am not reminded of any brands in particular when I was examining the jeans.

 

These are all early thoughts though, give me a few more days with these pants.

I do also suspect the denim's character will change significantly once shrunk.

 

i wasnt aware they even had a "normal" cut.  Cool, looking forward to the review!

 

Yeah, I only knew about the Regular cut because it was in their lookbook.

Apparently most retailers have not expressed an interest in the Regular cut.

I guess skinnier fits are what most people want!?!?!

Super surprised that Blue Owl didn't choose to stock the Regular.

Edited September 7, 2016 by mikecch

[nycsurfer530]

 

I now have 4 pages of notes for the review...

 

you found 4 pages of words to write on a  pair of jeans... prove it

[mikecch]

Field pad pages

The review will be quite long though.

 

Edit: 5 pages now.

Edited September 7, 2016 by mikecch

[mikecch]

The denim really pops after shrink-to-fit.

Definitely soak the Retro denim before wear to see the full set of characters of the fabric.

 

Shrink to fit measurements at size 36 for Regular:

 

Waist     18

Inseam  35

F Rise   12

B Rise   15

Thigh     13

Knee      9.5

Hem       8.5

 

Weird, the knee measurement actually went up by 0.25". Must be because of the inseam shrinkage?

 

@b_F   Back rise is OK when worn. No risk of exposure 

Edited September 7, 2016 by mikecch

[iamagambler]

hey guys, I think my profile makes this obvious... I am pretty new here. I've been following the discussions of superdenim for some years and believe it or not, I think this might be the first time I have something valuable to say.

I own a pair of Tanuki, the IDT1 to be precise which I bought from BOW straight after the release. I'll gladly take some pictures for you guys if you want me to. I really do like these jeans a lot, the low to mid rise prevents my ass from falling out (yeah, I am looking at you, ONI) and the aggressive taper is perfect for the shape of my legs. I think the denim compares to ONI and PBJ in terms of slubbiness, which isn't something I feel very strongly about. They have a great hand but it's not like I would run around and ask people to feel the killer slubs of my jeans, if you know what I mean. Many people here seem to hate the details because it is all just marketing, but I think it's all decently implemented. There isn't anything flashy standing out (apart from the blue inseam, which I think is kinda cool). I like the  blue gingham and the front pockets are deep enough to store a lot of shit in there (I own ONE pair of RGT and the pockets are so small, I can't get my phone out). 

All this might not be particularly interesting for you and I get that. But here's the thing. These jeans are good for a guy like me, someone who is bored of wearing yet another bulky straight cut and all the pedigree of authenticity/heritage/whatnot. When I walked into BOW, they didn't shower me with infos of the secret denim masters, they basically said this jeans might work for you and it did.

You guys are all super well informed, and I enjoy reading comments in this forum a lot, but I feel that you are quite judgmental at times. I recently spoke to Daniel (super nice guy by the way) from DC4 about the FlatHead and there rhetoric of awesomeness is not that different. I spoke to Junior from Rivet and Hide about PBJ and he basically told me that crappy story of one super machine weaving all the super denim for this super brand. I talked to a guy at Tenue de Nimes about Momotaro and he told me that these jeans would change my life because they are that good. Everyone wants to sell their product and none of the brands mentioned above is particularly modest. This self praise always gets amplified when their goods hit the retail store.

What I am trying to say is, no one forces you to buy these jeans, you have enough options available of brands you deem legit, that are more transparent, and have the pedigree you're looking for.

[karanimal]

The denim really pops after shrink-to-fit.

Definitely soak the Retro denim before wear to see the full set of characters of the fabric.

 

Shrink to fit measurements at size 36 for Regular:

 

Waist     18

Inseam  35

F Rise   12

B Rise   15

Thigh     13

Knee      9.5

Hem       8.5

 

Weird, the knee measurement actually went up by 0.25". Must be because of the inseam shrinkage?

 

@b_F   Back rise is OK when worn. No risk of exposure 

 

Those measurements sound pretty damn good actually....

[mikecch]

They have a great hand but it's not like I would run around and ask people to feel the killer slubs of my jeans, if you know what I mean. 

 

What? People feel my pants all the time.

 

Seriously though, welcome to the forum. And thank you for your perspective.

 

I think you'll find that the denim hobby is no different from other hobbies...

 

You'll get new guys who have read a few things on the Internet and decide that they know everything - anything that doesn't conform to their very superficial view of the hobby is not worthy.

 

Then you'll have the old guards, their mentality fostered over years in safe places like niche Internet forums, who over time have a tendency become rather close-minded - anything that doesn't conform to their very narrow view of the hobby is derided.

 

I am often guilty of both, but the good thing is there will always be someone to provide an alternate perspective.

 

Those measurements sound pretty damn good actually....

 

I'm wearing them now, after shrink-to-fit.

Just a very normal slim straight cut.

Nothing weird or out of place. Seat fits pretty good. Rise is mid-high, fairly comfortable.

Fair room in the thighs. Enough leg room & inseam for double-cuff & boots.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks for the measurements Mike! The denim doesn't seem to shrink very much. At least not as drastically as Ooe's OA denim or Evisu's No.1 denim

[mikecch]

^ Yeah, around 5%. I wonder if it will shrink further down the track.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

You didn't actually machine wash to shrink them down?

[ColonelAngus]

You guys are all super well informed, and I enjoy reading comments in this forum a lot, but I feel that you are quite judgmental at times.

 

agreed, especially about the elitism. I mean, we're talking about jeans FFS, not high performance motorcycles. I can understand why denim enthusiasts might like certain characteristics of a pair of jeans, but I honestly don't see the point in bashing brands you don't own. I could say any number of things criticizing US or Japanese denim brands based on anecdotal evidence or personal experience but I choose not to because it would serve no purpose. I just choose not to buy from certain brands, and that's what it ultimately boils down to for anyone. Opinions are like @ssholes and all that....

[iamagambler]

agreed, especially about the elitism. I mean, we're talking about jeans FFS, not high performance motorcycles. I can understand why denim enthusiasts might like certain characteristics of a pair of jeans, but I honestly don't see the point in bashing brands you don't own. I could say any number of things criticizing US or Japanese denim brands based on anecdotal evidence or personal experience but I choose not to because it would serve no purpose. I just choose not to buy from certain brands, and that's what it ultimately boils down to for anyone. Opinions are like @ssholes and all that....

 

That's an attitude I can totally relate to, thanks for the kind words  

 

I'll force kindly ask my girlfriend to take some fit pics of the Tanuki I own. I think that is what people are rightfully complaining about at the moment... there is really not much first hand experience stuff about them online. And while everyone is anxiously waiting for Mike's verdict, I might as well post some pics. 

[mikecch]

You didn't actually machine wash to shrink them down?

 

I did; warm water, quick machine wash, no detergent.

 

That's an attitude I can totally relate to, thanks for the kind words

 

I'll force kindly ask my girlfriend to take some fit pics of the Tanuki I own. I think that is what people are rightfully complaining about at the moment... there is really not much first hand experience stuff about them online. And while everyone is anxiously waiting for Mike's verdict, I might as well post some pics. 

 

Fit pics would be cool!

I'm actually curious how the other cuts fit, because so far I have only seen the Regular cuts in person.

 

Review is now at 2400 words 

Edited September 7, 2016 by mikecch

[iamagambler]

Fit pics would be cool!

I'm actually curious how the other cuts fit, because so far I have only seen the Regular cuts in person.

 

I am pretty much free of any talent when it comes to photography. Anyway, here are some pics that hopefully illustrate the cut. I'm too dumb to post pictures here in SUFU... yeah, this stuff is rocket science to me.

Here's link to imgur

 

 

It's pretty tapered but rather comfy all in all. it works quite well with dressier shoes like trickers and alden, I just couldn't be bothered to put boots on. My fancy socks will have to do the trick

[itsbenhere]

Everyone wants to sell their product and none of the brands mentioned above is particularly modest. This self praise always gets amplified when their goods hit the retail store.

What I am trying to say is, no one forces you to buy these jeans, you have enough options available of brands you deem legit, that are more transparent, and have the pedigree you're looking for.

 

 

I agree and this is a bummer because all of the brands we like are really good enough to sell without having to lie about it, "they'll change your life" "indestructible" etc...

 

I recently spoke to Daniel (super nice guy by the way) from DC4 about the FlatHead and there rhetoric of awesomeness is not that different. I spoke to Junior from Rivet and Hide about PBJ and he basically told me that crappy story of one super machine weaving all the super denim for this super brand. I talked to a guy at Tenue de Nimes about Momotaro and he told me that these jeans would change my life because they are that good.

 

Just to play devil's advocate, i think most people are uniquely disapproving of tanuki not because people speak well of them, but because of how emphatically they claim something that isn't true. Bringing back fabrics that haven't been around for 30 years: ok, how? What makes them special again? Remember, the whole thing is that other japanese brands don't make them as well as tanuki and tanuki is taking it to the next level. How?

 

Maybe daniel already told you this, but i just stumbled on some new jeans from flat head (MK) that are 590 euro... and i thought why are these so much? and then I read that the back and front pockets are double stitched, one time with cotton and the other is tendon! Not sure if handstitched, but I think thats awesome and I've never heard of that. That's actually different and special. I dont think I'd pay that much though for what otherwise are a normal pair of jeans though...

[iamagambler]

I agree and this is a bummer because all of the brands we like are really good enough to sell without having to lie about it, "they'll change your life" "indestructible" etc...

 

Just to play devil's advocate, i think most people are uniquely disapproving of tanuki not because people speak well of them, but because of how emphatically they claim something that isn't true. Bringing back fabrics that haven't been around for 30 years: ok, how? What makes them special again? Remember, the whole thing is that other japanese brands don't make them as well as tanuki and tanuki is taking it to the next level. How?

 

Maybe daniel already told you this, but i just stumbled on some new jeans from flat head (MK) that are 590 euro... and i thought why are these so much? and then I read that the back and front pockets are double stitched, one time with cotton and the other is tendon! Not sure if handstitched, but I think thats awesome and I've never heard of that. That's actually different and special. I dont think I'd pay that much though for what otherwise are a normal pair of jeans though...

Ok, I know what you mean. thinking about it, I love my iPhone but hate to see Johnny Ive talking crap about some shit they've just revolutionised. I can only guess whether the "30 old fabrics" are dead stock fabrics. But that's just speculation on my end, all in all I see myself agreeing to what you say. I would just like to add that most of what I know about them comes from their insta which is pretty low key. I think that one review by the denimhound didn't do them any good for sure (OK, that wasn't a review but some orgasmic advertisement).

Yeah, that FlatHead MK is 590€, the stitching is crazy complicated (done by hand entirely) and the leather for the arcs and the patch comes from the exact same tannery that does the leather for the seats of Ferrari. That's pretty exclusive and super premium, but the pricing is still bonkers. Their cordovan wallets are 1400€... using the same techniques as Hermes apparently. I like Daniel and I admire the transparency and all that. But I think that narrative comes with a crazy price tag...

[edmond]

I think the denim

Hound blogger watever is patt of tanuki or he consulted for it?

[edmond]

Hey gambler are you associated with the brand ?

Why cant anybody entitled to their fucked up elitist opinion? I cam bash whoever i want And i will take full responsibility for it . Stop calling people out when they do that ita their right and one more theyre publicly marketing and selling the product people will talk shit or talk gold about it thats life and other people will

Be mum about it. So fuck off dont be a fucking goody two shoe motherfucker

[iamagambler]

Hey Ed,

I'll try to answer what I understood from your post: I'm not associated with any brand.

Regarding the rest of your "post", I wanna say, maybe?!? There was a lot of motherfucking involved (good on you, I appreciate people with rare hobbies - you must read Oedipus, you'll love that, it's so relevant for people like you), but yeah, I guess you have an opinion, just like anybody else

[itsbenhere]

just like how I say i don't like them and im allowed to have that opinion, so is imagambler and anyone else who wants to chime in, unless you're being unreasonably rude and aggressive

 

...

 

He pretty much agrees with us anyway!

[mikecch]

Why cant anybody entitled to their fucked up elitist opinion? I cam bash whoever i want And i will take full responsibility for it . Stop calling people out when they do that ita their right and one more theyre publicly marketing and selling the product people will talk shit or talk gold about it thats life and other people will

Be mum about it. So fuck off dont be a fucking goody two shoe motherfucker

Hahaha, Ed, the katana will swing both ways. We can talk shit about brands, and others can talk shit about us.

I know this is just about pants, and nothing too important from my perspective - I know you are in the trade Ed, so your perspective may be different - but just because something is legal or a 'right' doesn't mean we can't exercise our own discretion. I know you have a peculiar online persona, and it's very entertaining that you do, surely you mustn't be concerned that once in a while people will pick on what you're saying.

Denim Hound isn't part of Tanuki.Without sticky beaking too much, many features on the bigger blogs these days are sponsored - but you know that already.

Edited September 7, 2016 by mikecch

[edmond]

I can talk shit about denim hound tol cause hes a fucking corrupt blogger

[ColonelAngus]

I can talk shit about denim hound tol cause hes a fucking corrupt blogger

What the hell does that even mean?

[garden gnomes in space]

Had a longer post typed out and deleted it by accident.

 

Here's a summary:

• everyone here is a shithead mother fucker to some degree
• I still chafe at Tanuki's "next level" Kickstarter-esque sales pitch.  It's too much branding, not enough proven product.  Trying to be the Denim Illuminati. The fuck is that?
• Im sure the denim is fine, I will probably never buy a pair (even now that I know they have a straight cut)
• I have found all that I want in denim in Full Count, Warehouse and Ooe and TCB and i dont feel the need to sow my seed so to speak with other brands.
• I do appreciate those taking the time to shine some light on the product.  SuFu should be a resource, so thanks

Edited September 8, 2016 by garden gnomes in space

[FeloniousMonk]

What the hell does that even mean?

 

I'm guessing he's implying some of the reviews are "sponsored", similar to Mike's comment upthread

[mikecch]

^ Having run a blog for a few years, I know almost everyone has sponsored content - the bigger the blog, the more so. Whether it is freebies or people sending in things for review - nothing unusual. It's common for people with a bit of a profile on the scene in general to get discounts, early access, pants reservations, the right to enter exclusive contests, access to information and brand personnel etc. I mean, we've all seen and experienced these things over the years, right? Not necessarily something we talk about, but it happens all the time. Calling Denim Hound corrupt would be a little naive and hypocritical. Ed, you can't tell me Take5 never gave you perks?

This thread is heating up.

Edited September 8, 2016 by mikecch

[edmond]

Ahh take5 never gave me nothing . Maybe a beer here and there but i never needed a freebie cause i waa already earning money when i was 21.