66 type jeans

[volvo240thebest]

here we go!

we could use this thread to compare different kind of 66 style inspired jeans cuts by various makers, geeking out on details and differences in cut, fabric etc etc.

 

 

1966 jeans details are widely known by just to sum it up:

silhouette: clean silhouette with mid rise, a regular top block and a slight taper from knee to hem

denim: the denim used for 60's jeans has usually a pale blue hue and should fade to a nice royal blue

 

details:

- bartacks in lieu of rivets on backpockets

- square coinpocket

- no selvedge hidden in the coinpocket, which is usualy chaintitched

- double chainstitch waistband construction

- paper patch instead of leather patch

- absence of the V-stitch at the top button

 

66 models in the market nowadays:

LVC 1966 http://levisvintageclothing.com/product/1966-501-jeans/

Denime 66 http://www.denime.jp/realbasic/archive/?category=4

TCB 60's https://tcbjeans.stores.jp/#!/items/54a65f9c552f2f097d0020d8

Sugarcane66 http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/frisbee/item/10004578/

Porky's http://www.porkys-jeans.com/original.html

Studio d'Artisan http://www.dartisan.co.jp/web_shop_detail.php?item_cd=16&cate_cd=2

Resolute 710 http://www.resolute.jp/710.html

Warehouse 1100 http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/ot-emens/item/mwa99-1100/

Pherrow's 466sw http://global.rakute...lo/item/962623/

Fob Factory F161 (possibly discontinued) http://www.fob-facto...ucts_zoom&pk=11

Boncoura 66type (http://maidens.shop-...p/?pid=47371645)

Fullcount 1800 (http://global.rakuten.com/en/store/very/item/fullcount-1800/)

i will update the list when time permits and add photos of details too.

 

there seems to be a fair bit of variation between all the different takes by different brands on this classic cut. let's compare them.

Edited April 2, 2015 by volvo240thebest

[volvo240thebest]

here's a brief description of TCB 60's, xpost from TCB thread

 

 

for posterity's sake, here's some infos on TCB 60's that were already posted on the Unknown Japanese Brands thread.

 

TCB 60's are Inoue's san's repro 66 cut, they're made out of a beautiful unsanforized 13.5 OZ denim. The cotton used for the fabric comes from San Joaquin Valley, California.

The silhouette is clean, however this is a true 66 repro cut, so it's not tapered as much as other Japanese brands take on the '66 cut.

 

TCB garments run always very true to size. TCB 60's can be either bought raw or one wash.

 

new fabric close up

 

TCB 60's silhouette (I'm a 36 waist, height 178 cm weight 88 kilos)

 

fade sample (my pair at about 14 months of wear, countless washes)

front

 

rear

 

a couple faded fabric macros

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Great one Volvo!

 

Another detail would be the absence of the V-stitch at the top button. Although there are vintage Levi's from the '60s that show that detail but most Japanese repro don't feature a V-stitch anymore and instead you have 2 parallel vertical stitches.

 

edit: and at the coin pocket you will find a chainstitch. That wasn't the case on older models that still had the hidden selvedge

Edited March 31, 2015 by beautiful_FrEaK

[volvo240thebest]

thanks buddy, edited my first post!

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[volvo240thebest]

cool, grazie Hoggy.

I'd love to give FOB a try in the future, if F161 no avail maybe with F151, there's some incredible fade samples for the latter on Instagram. first thing I would do on the F161 it's take out those funky arcs though!

[edmond]

volvo what instagram account??

[volvo240thebest]

@taxydriver1992 has some mean F151 fades pics!

[unders]

This is shaping up to be a corker of a thread.

 

I've got a pair of Joe McCoy 906 in rotation which are inspired by the 1966 cut, although they've taken creative licence and used hidden rivets & coin pocket selvedge. I'll sort pics over the next couple of days.

[ironheartfan123]

i ordered a sc41966N from PSA last week; good thread!

[volvo240thebest]

^ look forward to your thoughts on the SC66's!

[holio cornolio]

Hey Volvo, always a pleasure to see your posts. I keep meaning to ask how easy about your TCB60s have been to fade? I have a feeling that you commented that they are pretty stubborn. Reason I ask is that I have entered the DWC with my Norman Porter NP02, but I'm toying with the idea of changing my entry. I've been wearing Norman Porters since November, and I love them, but if I'm going to be rotating, I feel like I should rotate with something different.

[holio cornolio]

That doesn't read right. I've been wearing Norman porters since November, but not the pair I have entered dwc with.. That would be cheating:-)

[volvo240thebest]

Hey Volvo, always a pleasure to see your posts. I keep meaning to ask how easy about your TCB60s have been to fade? I have a feeling that you commented that they are pretty stubborn. Reason I ask is that I have entered the DWC with my Norman Porter NP02, but I'm toying with the idea of changing my entry. I've been wearing Norman Porters since November, and I love them, but if I'm going to be rotating, I feel like I should rotate with something different.

 

cheers buddy. the last fading pics in my post above were taken at about 13/14 months..so I'd say that TCB 60's are quite easy to fade. It took three months to see some whiskering and contrast and I remember I started to really love the fading at the seventh month mark. First 6 months were slow-ish, but from 7th month onwards it's been a glorious crescendo rossiniano ahah!

Edited March 31, 2015 by volvo240thebest

[Paul T]

Two more signifiers of '66 jeans:

 

Square coin pocket

Fewer loom errors, but famously, this period is when we see increased slubs due to magnadraft spinning.

 

Just for fun, this is our pair of original 302 (youth's jeans) from around 1969:

 

 

 

[volvo240thebest]

thanks Paul, your blog post is suuuuperrr!

[Mr-Bielby]

OK, I'll put some photos up as this goes along.

Starting with Resolute 710.

The worn in ones are size 34x34 and the new ones are 33x33, which I think will be best once worn.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

that fuzzy denim

[Mr-Bielby]

The worn ones are now smooth

[clapper]

is it just me or the resolute look rather slim compared to the TBC shown above

[beautiful_FrEaK]

No, the Resolute are by far slimmer than TCB's interpreatation of the '66 cut.

 

@volvo: Boncoura 66 would be another option (http://maidens.shop-pro.jp/?pid=47371645)

[Blue Nemo]

These Resolute look so nice - haaaaiiiiirrrreeeeeyyy!

and thank you for the blog post, reading and enjoying it right now!

 

there also is Evisus #2000, which is a 66 type, more or less. Correct me if I am wrong. (http://www.denimio.com/evisu-2000-straight-fit-no1-denim-tiger-selvage-egd2000n1002-3870.html)

I think about buying these and start to rotate them during the DWC. Less fades, but I am on an Osaka-5-Hunt!!

[Mr-Bielby]

As this could turn out to be my favourite thread I'm givIng the first person to reply the choice of tomorrow's photo.

Denime

Evisu

Fullcount

Studio D'Artisan

Warehouse

Porky's

LVC

Ooe

[volvo240thebest]

SDA please! close up of how low the rise actually is pleeeaasseee!!!!!!!!!!!

[Mr-Bielby]

One crotch shot coming up on the D66-199

They don't feel like my arse is eating them.

First one can choose the next brand

Edited April 1, 2015 by Mr-Bielby

[Blue Nemo]

EVISU!

[Maynard Friedman]

Hey b_F, doesn't Samurai make some 60s style cuts? I'm sure you must have at least 2 pairs of them!

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Nowadays it's only one pair left...the S0510XX66-2

I will link some pics of my pairs later

 

(and yes, I totally forgot about them. I think Bears lists the S5000XX as a '66 cut although the S0500XX might be more fitting. Fit-wise. Details of the 5000 and 0500 are both XX-style)

[volvo240thebest]

that SDA denim looks so damn nice. must try SDA sooner or later. I'm still a newbie somewhat (I tend to wear one pair at the time with little to no rotation) but between all the Osaka 5 possibly SDA is the brand that attracts me the most. I was worried by the 4 botton rise but it looks like the rise is medium rather than low. Jeez Mr Bielby you have some 66 collection going. fair play to you and your wallet!

do you have warehouse 660 or warehouse 1100?

Edited April 1, 2015 by volvo240thebest