Unknown Non-Japanese Brands

[volvo240thebest]

  On 1/20/2015 at 7:35 PM, Bobbo said:

They do look good. Out of curiosity, do you know what leathers they are using?

 

here's the link

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.1-c.w4004-9462274134.31.Aq7Jmn&id=43177926263

maybe a chinese speaking could shed some light on it.

I notice my size is already sold out, so no more tempted!

[Cucoo]

Google Translate says it's "vegetable tanned goat leather"...

[volvo240thebest]

for anyone interested double check the measurement before you pull the trigger, as Bronson runs quite snug. I had a 42 on the B10 and still was too tight. my chest is 40.5.

I should probably get a 44, with the risk of having the sleeves and the overall lenght too long.

Edited January 21, 2015 by volvo240thebest

[bradl]

That a-1 is nice, and price is even better. Makes a leather jacket that much more affordable, but that leather looks off.

Also I like to know the ethical line most of my clothes were made on, but goat leather? I'd love to read about where their goat leather comes from. Just can't say I've heard of it being used.

Edited January 23, 2015 by bradl

[Iron Horse]

  On 1/23/2015 at 2:09 AM, bradl said:

That a-1 is nice, and price is even better. Makes a leather jacket that much more affordable, but that leather looks off.

Also I like to know the ethical line most of my clothes were made on, but goat leather? I'd love to read about where their goat leather comes from. Just can't say I've heard of it being used.

 

Goatskin seems common to me:

 

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/goatskin-jacket

 

 

"Goatskin: Lower grade of leather used in coats and has a grainy look and feel. Made popular in aviation jackets because World War II U.S. Government contracts and specifications were for low quality materials and awarded to the lowest bidders for coats. (The generals did not wear goatskin coats.) Most Goatskin leather jackets are advertised as "authentic" or "traditional", i.e., lower grade and quality." 

 

http://www.popsleather.com/materials.php3

Edited January 23, 2015 by Iron Horse

[bradl]

Awesome, exactly the type of information I was looking for. Still not sure how I feel about the look of it.

[Cucoo]

In my experience goat leather looks fine or even good at first but with wearing in it starts to actually look worse. I have a cheap leather jacket, decently made and of a satisfying heft, but made from low grade goat leather, and with a couple weeks of wear the front panels acquired an ugly looking, grainy grey-ish texture. I don't know if the tanning process plays a role in it (because I'm pretty sure my jacket isn't made of veg tanned leather) but I learned my lesson with regards to goat leather 

[Megatron1505]

The guy who owns this brand is good e-buddy of mine. He was an organic farmer with a passion for denim and so went into manufacturing his own brand, his story is very interesting and he makes some really nice things, based in Ohio USA.

 

http://zaceusa.com

 

I plan on picking up the field jacket and the harvester hat shortly.

[DhaDha]

interesting story, yes, and the price is more than reasonable too!

[volvo240thebest]

Zace was in Genoa a couple weeks ago, just half an hour from where I live. I haven't met him unfortunately.  there's a shop in Genoa that has just started to sell his goods. I haven't been in that shop in ages and i must check them out again. they are selling now some really good stuff. the shop is owned by a IG superhero (thousands of followers) called @mrk69. I'll go there soon and will document it on sufu for you wonderful people ahah!

[Cucoo]

I finally received these army chinos by Bronson I was talking about earlier in this thread today - they're beastly. Very heavy and stiff fabric, a bitch to button up. Not preshrunk so I threw them in a 30° wash, didn't lose as much length as I would've liked. Depending on how much the rest shrunk up I'll try a hotter wash or dryer maybe.

 

 

 

[Cucoo]

^ After two washes I don't think these'll shrink any more. Maybe dryer would help with the length, but I'm pretty satisfied with the fit now. The 18oz fabric is stiff as fuck, it'll look better once the fabric settles a bit and actually drapes instead of just standing up. 

 

 

Fit pics. They could lose another 5cm or so in length but I think the stacking is still alright.

 

 

All in all these chinos are pretty awesome for the price (56€ excluding shipping and proxy). I like the fabric a lot, it'll only look better with repeated washing. The fit is good, waist is about perfect with not much ass flare.

 

What I don't like is the button fly, I saw that the newest version of these pants comes with a zipper which is probably a great improvement over this. It's really hard to button up, not just because of the thick fabric, but also because the thin buttons slip out of the button holes so easily. The back pocket bags are really deep and practically swallow my wallet. I like the suspender buttons but I'm thinking about taking them off - I'm not a suspenders type of guy and they'll just fuck with my belts.

[volvo240thebest]

That's a great fit!

[Megatron1505]

They look great.

[Wörn75]

Great fit Cucoo!

[Canada_Steve]

This was the first pair of selvedge denim jeans that I found in Calgary about five or six years ago.  There was no selvedge denim in our area at the time, so when I found them on the Mexx shelf it was quite a surprise.  I think the list price was $120 and I bought them for about half that.  I wore them on and off for about 8 months, but after the second wash they were became too short in the leg.

 

The build/stitch quality is good with a few unusual trouser-like features added.  The lined waistband and welted rear pocket (my favorite part) struck me as being nice touches and made them stand out from other stuff at the mall.  They were built in Turkey and super stubborn to fade.  I haven't seen anything about them online, the store managers didn't know much about them and now Mexx is closing shop.

 

 

 

 

 

More pics here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/spyycanada/sets/72157648753606054/

Edited March 1, 2015 by Canada_Steve

[mf051404]

Anyone familiar with Bzen Raw Denim (probably a Chinese brand...because made in China)...pretty nice details and hardware..including the denim itself, feels like 15oz.

 

Very thick leather patch (thicker than most of my belts).  The color here is the most accurate

Buttons

Front

Back

Coin pocket selvedge

Coin pocket

Selvedge and chainstitch details

Tag

 

Does anyone know how much it retails for?

Edited March 23, 2015 by mf051404

[mf051404]

Pocket bags and "piped" fly

Hidden backpocket rivet

Fly...not the truest color (much darker than it looks)

[Cucoo]

  On 3/23/2015 at 8:22 AM, mf051404 said:

Coin pocket

 

 

 

Now that is a nice detail!

[mp201]

So Cheese Denim has some 32oz fabric for a MTO pair and I think I might just spring for it..

[jameslow23]

Hello everyone!

 

Greetings from Singapore!

 

This is a pair of Bob Dong Lot: N039F, 50% cotton and 50% flax. They're size 34. 

 

Measurements (Pre-soak):

Waist - 37 in

Thigh - 12.79 in

Knee - 9.25 in

Leg Opening - 8.26 in

Inseam - 34.25 in

Front Rise - 11.41 in

Back Rise - 16.14 in

 

Pre-soak pics (with Bob Dong Selvedge workshirt):

 

 

 

These were real cheap at SG$102.94 which is about US$76 excl. shipping. Took about 4 days to get from China to Singapore. Went with a good proxy.

 

They are currently hot soaking. Will post post-soak fits later.

 

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Nice fit!

Do you mind sharing some pictures of the details and the denim?

[jameslow23]

I will once it dries up!

 

Anyways here's the link if any one is keen. http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.5-c.w4002-4093707404.43.RTtIwR&id=35110075919

 

The fit is apparently modelled after the Iron Heart 555-01. Supposedly low rise with a tapered leg opening.

 

It's ridiculously hairy. I imagined its due to the Flax material. Interestingly, the word flax in mandarin translates to Hemp. So perhaps it is hemp afterall.

 

They're 15oz, RHT, with 50% cotton (Warp), 50% Flax/Hemp (Weft). No word as to where the fabric is from.

[volvo240thebest]

I bet my ass they won't never shrink up as much as they say they will. my pair of Bob Dong n31 didn't at all, and I'm glad I decided to size down. but they will fit you pretty well, pre soak fit is very good!

[jameslow23]

So these are the measurements immediately after the wash:

Post-wash:

waist: 33.85 in

Thigh: 12.6 in

Knee: 8.86 in 

LO: 7.68 in

inseam: 31.89 in

Front rise: 10.63 in

Back rise: 14.96 in

 

after about a day's wear,

here are the measurements:

Post-wear:

Waist: 35.82

Thigh: 12.59

Knee: 8.86

LO: 7.87

 

I put it through a 1 hour hot soak, then felt it wasn't enough so i threw it into a normal wash cycle. It is a lot softer now but just a scratchy.

 

 

And now for some pictures!

 

 

you'd notice the selvedge line isn't stitched very well...

 

 

Same for the chainstitched hem

 

 

 

 

And the hairiness

 

Overall, definitely no where near Japanese made denim but much higher quality than one would expect from a $100 pair of jeans. I'm satisfied since this is just an experiment into hemp denim We shall see how this thing fade with time.

[Cucoo]

So the waist easily stretches beyond tagged size, good to know!

 

That denim looks insane indeed! People will probably just think you have a cat (or rather a dozen cats), but it's awesome

 

Shame about the stitching issues. None of my Bob Dong jackets or shirts have any issues with regards to craftmanship, and neither do their wabash pants, clean and solid stitching all around. Maybe they're using a different factory for the jeans or something.

[jameslow23]

Yeah this is just a fun experiment. So many people have asked me if i left paper in my pockets while washing!

 

It'll be in my rotation with a pair of Redcloud and PBJ. can't wait to see what it becomes after a couple of months!

[holio cornolio]

Anyone here have any experience of Sauce Zhan? Specifically their type 2 jacket: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a1z10.1-c.w4004-4819971230.61.t89GuL&id=42269438969

I've just got shot of my levis trucker, looking for something else. I'm not 100% sold on the type 2, but the fit pics I've seen make it look great. This version by SZ isn't too spendy, but being a potential taobao purchase, I'm always a bit wary of fit / sizing and shrinkage so if anyone has any tips...

cheers

Edited June 29, 2015 by holio cornolio

[Maynard Friedman]

HC - Speak to Megatron, he has good knowledge of Sauce Zhan.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Construction of SZ is quite good and for 60 $ (before proxy fees) you can't really go wrong.

And if the denim he uses on this jacket is anything liek the denim he used on my jeans, you'll be happy!