WW2 repro / detailed jeans

[JohnM]

I'm no expert on the details of WWII jeans, but I appreciate those I have, including LVC 44, TCB 40s, and CSF.  The fit is so different on each, however, that the commonalities seem almost trivial compared with the differences.  That said, all three have high rises.  I love the color of the CSF denim, the texture of the TCB, and the fit of the LVC.

[mousemouse]

What do you guys think about the Cushman x CSF 22501xx jeans?

[Toegun]

1 hour ago, mousemouse said:

What do you guys think about the Cushman x CSF 22501xx jeans?

Hiya @mousemouse they’re a good straight leg cut with plenty of “classic” CSF stitching. I should wear mine more. 

[mousemouse]

8 minutes ago, Toegun said:

Hiya @mousemouse they’re a good straight leg cut with plenty of “classic” CSF stitching. I should wear mine more. 

Hi Toegun, would you know if the fabric is also from CSF as well? I missed my chance getting a pair of one piece of rocks some time ago and was wondering if these would give me the same satisfaction as a real 'CSF' pair, for lack of a better term 

Edited October 13, 2022 by mousemouse
spelling

[Toegun]

Apparently it is from CSF but it’s some new 13.5oz denim. I got my pair from The Signet Store, they have an active thread on here so you could contact them directly. Here is the link to the item on their webstore: https://thesignetstore.com/products/wwii-jeans?variant=31991943987283

plenty of sizes, they also have the WW2 type 1 jacket, just wish they had it in a larger size. 

Edited October 13, 2022 by Toegun

[mousemouse]

23 minutes ago, Toegun said:

Apparently it is from CSF but it’s some new 13.5oz denim. I got my pair from The Signet Store, they have an active thread on here so you could contact them directly. Here is the link to the item on their webstore: https://thesignetstore.com/products/wwii-jeans?variant=31991943987283

plenty of sizes, they also have the WW2 type 1 jacket, just wish they had it in a larger size. 

thanks! I will reach out to them

[Toegun]

Thought I’d blow the dust of me Cushman:

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Neat Style in Japan is doing a lot of in-house jeans lately. Many are made by Denimbridge it seems. Dunno who makes these WW2 for them:

https://www.neatstyle.jp/product/879

[beautiful_FrEaK]

A small comparison between Denime WW2 and Resolute 714. The details are very similar but the Denime have the rougher sewing. 

They are pretty similar in fit as well, same rise and lower leg. The 714 are slightly slimmer in hip and thighs. 

 

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

@beautiful_FrEaK do you have a preference? 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I prefer the details/sewing of the Denime but the fit on the Resolute is a little bit better. The denim on the Denime is also very nice but I wish I would have found a raw pair since these were really boiled. Now I am thinking about hemming the Denime so the fit will improve. 

But I can't tell you which is my favourite 

Edited July 14, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Maynard Friedman]

Good comparison b_F. The Denimes look like they have more hip flare and/or tapered waist.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Exactly @Maynard Friedman

I think I prefer the Denime as a WW2 model. Resolute is more a fashion brand than a repro brand.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Hej team Rocket...how are your WW2 jeans are coming along?

Edited July 28, 2023 by beautiful_FrEaK

[Dr_Heech]

@beautiful_FrEaK Are you interested in/thinking of purchasing those SC43's when they're released?

 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Dr_Heech I really didn't think about a possible purchase at all. Do you?

[Dr_Heech]

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

@Dr_Heech I really didn't think about a possible purchase at all. Do you?

Yes, atm. Details and price pending obvs, but fairly confident otherwise. 

The reason l asked is also to help establish someone who could assist me in the possible purchase when released in autumn (l'm ptetty crap at ordering stuff off the net) if l'm up for a pair that is but don't want to get the size wrong or miss out 

(Sorry for the late reply  - work is busy atm)

 

 

[DC2020]

6 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Hej team Rocket...how are your WW2 jeans are coming along?

I love mine. Ordering was really easy and quick. The sizing was exactly as advertised after a hot soak. The denim is dark and crispy and the cut fits me well. Only like 7-8 wears so far bc it’s super hot out but will be wearing them all the time come fall. You thinking of getting a pair?

[MJF9]

@DC2020 the Rockets look really good from afar and you landed at solid fit to boot.

I noticed the measurements don't include the back rise... how is that? If you have time, would be interested in back rise measurement / waist for comparison

[MJF9]

Got them from Rockets - for a size 34 one wash

waist/87.5cm
crossing width /33.5cm
front rise/32cm
hem width/23cm
length/81cm
back rise 40cm (I had to ask specifically for this)

Rockets back rise is on the lower end of the spectrum to the Freewheelers WW2 jeans.  Just measured mine at a whopping 49cm.  

Would there have been that much difference in measurements for jeans actually made during WW2?  

Repro'ing the features (buttons, pocket bags et al) obviously matters but so does proportion.  Maybe the repro's we're seeing now do represent the range of proportion at the time; or maybe they don't and there is some artistic license.  Anyone know?  

[beautiful_FrEaK]

21 hours ago, Dr_Heech said:

 

The reason l asked is also to help establish someone who could assist me in the possible purchase when released in autumn (l'm ptetty crap at ordering stuff off the net) if l'm up for a pair that is but don't want to get the size wrong or miss out 

Would love to help you out but being from the continent isn't probably much of help for you. But I am sure @Flash can lend you his Internet skills

18 hours ago, DC2020 said:

You thinking of getting a pair?

I considered them early on but when I saw the measurements and no in-between sizes where available I passed. But still like to them evolve

3 hours ago, MJF9 said:

 

Would there have been that much difference in measurements for jeans actually made during WW2?  

Repro'ing the features (buttons, pocket bags et al) obviously matters but so does proportion.  Maybe the repro's we're seeing now do represent the range of proportion at the time; or maybe they don't and there is some artistic license.  Anyone know?  

I think the amount of people here that actually handled a WW2 Levi's is pretty small (non-existent?!) so I fear we won't get a final answer. I think many repro brands handled at least one pair before producing their jeans but it also depends on the size they handled and if they did the scale up correctly. Seeing CSF and TCB having really high rises I rather think this is correct and brands offering smaller rises might have tweaked the pattern for a better fit. Or as you said, the variations in original 501 were also so big.

[Dr_Heech]

24 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Would love to help you out but being from the continent isn't probably much of help for you. But I am sure @Flash can lend you his Internet skills

I considered them early on but when I saw the measurements and no in-between sizes where available I passed. But still like to them evolve

I think the amount of people here that actually handled a WW2 Levi's is pretty small (non-existent?!) so I fear we won't get a final answer. I think many repro brands handled at least one pair before producing their jeans but it also depends on the size they handled and if they did the scale up correctly. Seeing CSF and TCB having really high rises I rather think this is correct and brands offering smaller rises might have tweaked the pattern for a better fit. Or as you said, the variations in original 501 were also so big.

Haha, yes Flash has been a real mate in proxying my last few internet buys from warehouse and CSF but has recently taken a hiatus and is probably more focused on his family/work and where his next tattoo is going(?) and l don't want to hassle the guy (l may still ask him tho) - hey if l like em it may be straightforward to pick up a pair anyway when they're released (?)

You said you saw measurements? Any links or help with that. Any photos of details?

Thanks man, l know l'm a pain in the arse sometimes 

And as far as l'm concerned, the best 'proportioned' WW2 Levis s501XX lookalikey l've seen is probably the  Freewheelers  s601xx or possibly the Bridge of the times WW2 model.

To be fair my only experience with original WW2 Levis was a pair l found in London which had been turned into shorts and another time when the local vintage warehouse had started saving denim bits/scraps of hidden rivet levis (c.1992)

 Thinking back, they were bits of mostly 40's jeans, with 'silver' or dark copper rounded hidden rivets so 46's (?) and wartime bits. Never thought to buy them, they were just piled up in a wooden box on the floor.

 

 

Edited July 29, 2023 by Dr_Heech

[Maynard Friedman]

On 7/28/2023 at 10:51 AM, Dr_Heech said:

@beautiful_FrEaK Are you interested in/thinking of purchasing those SC43's when they're released?

Is that a Sugar Cane ‘43 Charlie? Are they a general release or a Junky Special (or similar) limited edition? Or something else entirely?!

[Dr_Heech]

1 minute ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Is that a Sugar Cane ‘43 Charlie? Are they a general release or a Junky Special (or similar) limited edition? Or something else entirely?!

Yes mate, the sample pair in the little video on the SC thread is all l've seen. Don't know anything else about them either but would love to know more too. Here's hoping for the more knowledgeable internet peeps to come up with some details for us.

 

[DC2020]

20 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@DC2020 the Rockets look really good from afar and you landed at solid fit to boot.

I noticed the measurements don't include the back rise... how is that? If you have time, would be interested in back rise measurement / waist for comparison

Tag size 36. After one hot wash the back rise measures 15.5” and the front rise measures 13.25”. The waist is 18.25” flat across. The rise feels high (and extremely comfortable). Compared to my warehouse 1001xx the rise feels quite a bit deeper. 

Some detail shots for fun. 

 

[MJF9]

Looking very nice @DC2020

Rockets have been very helpful and chatty.  Regarding sizing, they said "501XX(1947) has a front rise of 32cm and a rear rise of 42cm.  Our company has made the back rise 1.5-2cm shallower than the 501XX(1947)."  So it could be inferred Rockets have tweaked the measurements based on the vintage references they had in hand for fit purposes.  Definitely the opposite end of back rise scale to Freewheelers which is markedly high - can't remember if they based theirs on a WW2 original - can anyone recall?

Rockets also said they have previously done a 37 model using the same measurements as the WW2.  They plan to have a run again.  

Pics are of their 37s - liking the denim

Edited July 29, 2023 by MJF9

[DC2020]

19 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Looking very nice @DC2020

Rockets have been very helpful and chatty.  Regarding sizing, they said "501XX(1947) has a front rise of 32cm and a rear rise of 42cm.  Our company has made the back rise 1.5-2cm shallower than the 501XX(1947)."  So it could be inferred Rockets have tweaked the measurements based on the vintage references they had in hand for fit purposes.  Definitely the opposite end of back rise scale to Freewheelers which is markedly high - can't remember if they based theirs on a WW2 original - can anyone recall?

Rockets also said they have previously done a 37 model using the same measurements as the WW2.  They plan to have a run again.  

Pics are of their 37s - liking the denim

Wow.. it will be hard not to grab a pair of those when they do it again. Thanks for posting the photos. Also liking the denim a lot.. not sure if it’s the same as the denim on their current offerings but looks great. 
 

Doesn't sound like the freewheelers back rise would work for many people.. but so much depends on the shape of the pattern. 

[MJF9]

All good mate... interestingly the Freewheelers WW2 rises work for me - once the jeans drape they're great.  Depends what you like or are used to, of course - I'm in the high-rise camp so the Rockets are unlikely for me on that basis only.  The lowest rise I have is my Tender 134s which I like wearing beltless for that reason.

[shredwin_206]

I’ll echo what others have stated the Freewheelers s601xx hits all the boxes, but I’m also a high rise only wearer. I know the rise might bug some people 

[Topnotcher]

On 7/29/2023 at 7:15 PM, DC2020 said:

Wow.. it will be hard not to grab a pair of those when they do it again. Thanks for posting the photos. Also liking the denim a lot.. not sure if it’s the same as the denim on their current offerings but looks great. 
 

Doesn't sound like the freewheelers back rise would work for many people.. but so much depends on the shape of the pattern. 

 

Edited August 3, 2023 by Topnotcher