Show us your leather

[LckyChrmsBBoy]

some beautiful leather in here!!

I need to pick up a nice mid size wallet. My cheap fossil wallet is some garbage haha

[corporalclegg]

Worn since I received it, making it roughly 3 months of wear. A big thanks to Mike (and Scott of course), favorite belt I own

Copper rivets are aging nicely as well

[Obbigood]

Can anyone share/explain how to get a beautiful edge burnish like this?

Burnishing side is actually the basic in leathercrafting.

However, it is also the most time consuming. It requires alot of practice and patient to achieve slick finishes.

First of all, cut edge must be neat and straight. Apply gum tragacanth (which is most common), using plastic slicker, wood or even canvas, briskly rub against the edge. The heat produce will result in burnished edge.

Well, as some may have aldy know of the above logic of burnishing, my point is that, there is no other way to perfect it except for hard effort and constant practising.

[ItsJustNC]

^ Yea, Obbigood pretty much covered it. And i would like to add that a nicely glued edge helps a lot too.

[bahnahnahs]

hey... anyone knows of this brand dolce or something (its a japanese brand i know)? i remembered seeing them produce some nice wallets made using ostrich/elephant skin... thinking of looking into getting one of them.

anyone can give me the link to a shop with them?

[undcvrsm]

Dolce Vita?

http://www.clever-id.com/WebFiles/HTM/TOP_PAGE/BRA/DOL.html

[mikecch]

A couple of unusual leathers, put together into a tote by Scott (unlucky), pic is Scott's own:

Scotch grain Chromexcel from Horween, plus a little bit of hair sheep from Clayton.

[mikecch]

Sending this off to a friend.

Care kit for veg. tanned leather

Beeswax, emu fat, home-made leather balm.

[tropicalbird]

Looks fierce

[mikecch]

^ What looks fierce?

[ItsJustNC]

Sending this off to a friend.

Care kit for veg. tanned leather

Beeswax, emu fat, home-made leather balm.

Oh... that looks interesting. Any rational on why you chose to use emu fat.?

[mikecch]

^ Worked best in my experiments, both on it's own and in mixtures.

Horse oil works similarly well though, but too expensive for anything but the finest bark or brain tanned hides.

The problem with more common fats like neatsfoot and mink that I've found is that the quality, purity and freshness is all over the place.

Not to mention the controversy surrounding mink fur farming.

Horse and emu fats don't have this problem.

Horse oil is usually very well made due to the fact that they're primarily marketed to footwear and leather nerds - the margins are higher and the target consumer is very meticulous and picky.

Emu oil is mostly made for use as cosmetic or medicinal products, so even the lowest vet. grade products (still relatively expensive) usually comes thick and fresh (see 2nd pic above.)

I'm wanting to try some camel fat too, but they come fairly crude and difficult to process.

Edit: Also, someone asked me why my leather balm is so thick. I personally think the above formulation is the weakest dilution I would advise to be used. If you're using an conditioner/balm that has a fluid consistency, I would recommend looking hard at the ingredients panel or the material safety data sheet and figure out what's going on.

[ItsJustNC]

^ Worked best in my experiments, both on it's own and in mixtures.

Horse oil works similarly well though, but too expensive for anything but the finest bark or brain tanned hides.

The problem with more common fats like neatsfoot and mink that I've found is that the quality, purity and freshness is all over the place.

Not to mention the controversy surrounding mink fur farming.

Horse and emu fats don't have this problem.

Horse oil is usually very well made due to the fact that they're primarily marketed to footwear and leather nerds - the margins are higher and the target consumer is very meticulous and picky.

Emu oil is mostly made for use as cosmetic or medicinal products, so even the lowest vet. grade products (still relatively expensive) usually comes thick and fresh (see 2nd pic above.)

I'm wanting to try some camel fat too, but they come fairly crude and difficult to process.

Edit: Also, someone asked me why my leather balm is so thick. I personally think the above formulation is the weakest dilution I would advise to be used. If you're using an conditioner/balm that has a fluid consistency, I would recommend looking hard at the ingredients panel or the material safety data sheet and figure out what's going on.

Ah... I was about to suggest neatsfoot. I guess you are right about the inconsistency of the quality. You know what would be cool.? Trying to distill the oil to get it purified... :eek: Like high grade vodkas. Distill it a few times and see what happens..! Haha.!

I like using mink oil tho... After a few applications, it gives a waterproofing quality similar to beeswax, but less gummy in texture..

[andyy]

iphone x cardholder made by hollowsleather

when i got it

[mikecch]

Ah... I was about to suggest neatsfoot. I guess you are right about the inconsistency of the quality. You know what would be cool.? Trying to distill the oil to get it purified... :eek: Like high grade vodkas. Distill it a few times and see what happens..! Haha.!

I like using mink oil tho... After a few applications, it gives a waterproofing quality similar to beeswax, but less gummy in texture..

In my experience all types of oils will give the leather an improved intrinsic waterproof capability if applied frequently - but this will dramatically change the feel and 'constitution' of the leather, and also accelerating the oxidative processes within and between the fibrils.

Beeswax is simply a coating agent that sits on the surface and top layers of the leather, and can be re-applied without changing the leather dramatically - unless of course you use a 'hot' application or apply it as part of a mixture.

The neatsfoot and mink available on the market have been heavily 'distilled'/processed, and really no longer resemble animal fat - more like cooking oil

IMO a good source of oil should look thick and creamy.

[Guest nooblet333]

Looks amazing ^^

[tropicalbird]

I like using mink oil tho... After a few applications, it gives a waterproofing quality similar to beeswax, but less gummy in texture..

I highly doubt you're using the real thang. No oil I know of can offer similar waterproofing properties.

[ItsJustNC]

In my experience all types of oils will give the leather an improved intrinsic waterproof capability if applied frequently - but this will dramatically change the feel and 'constitution' of the leather, and also accelerating the oxidative processes within and between the fibrils.

Beeswax is simply a coating agent that sits on the surface and top layers of the leather, and can be re-applied without changing the leather dramatically - unless of course you use a 'hot' application or apply it as part of a mixture.

The neatsfoot and mink available on the market have been heavily 'distilled'/processed, and really no longer resemble animal fat - more like cooking oil

IMO a good source of oil should look thick and creamy.

Hmm.. I found that mink oil seem to have a faster effect in waterproofing. I actually like that "natural waterproofing"ability. Feels more.. Raw. Haha.! But that's just me.!

However.. What you're doing seems pretty dam cool and intriguing..! Is it cool if you could share the process.? Wouldn't mind getting in on some "leather rejuvenating salve"action here myself.!

Just thought about a neatsfoot and beewax/propolis mixture... I found neatsfoot's ability to "hydrate" leather to be awesomely potent.

Prolly cause it was a oil derived from bovines and the hide we use are generally from bovine... It kind of feels.. "Apt" for me to use neatsfoot. Haha.!

[ItsJustNC]

I highly doubt you're using the real thang. No oil I know of can offer similar waterproofing properties.

Ah.. I use Columbus Mink Oil. I just ran out of it and i can't seem to find the ingredient list on the net, but is it a mixture/compound of mink oil and bee wax.? I have no idea...

After applying it for 3 times or so, water doesn't seem get absorbed by my wallet. It forms droplets on the surface instead.

And its natural vegetable tanned. So it is definitely not a waterproofing quality from any sort of oil based dyes or infused wax in the leather. :confused:

[mikecch]

Natural veg. tanning doesn't exclude a stuffing process which will make the leather more waterproof.

I have to say mink oil doesn't saturate the leather any faster than other oils, neither does neatsfoot - although if you have saturated the leather so much that water pearls on the grain, then you've definitely over-doing the oiling

I won't reveal my whole recipe on a public forum, sorry; I'd much rather folks get interested and do some experiments of their own and explore new knowledge.

Although I can say that the basic leather conditioner formula can easily be found on the net.

The main ingredients are fats and water, with wax added as you like - the rest of the make-up and how you go about refining the formula will depend on your own experimentations.

Obviously things to think about include binding the water and oil, the final stability and consistency of the product, preventing the fats from going rancid, etc.

You'll find that different ingredients, different oils, etc will necessitate a change in the formula, so trial and error is your friend.

[tropicalbird]

Ah.. I use Columbus Mink Oil. I just ran out of it and i can't seem to find the ingredient list on the net, but is it a mixture/compound of mink oil and bee wax.? I have no idea...

After applying it for 3 times or so, water doesn't seem get absorbed by my wallet. It forms droplets on the surface instead.

And its natural vegetable tanned. So it is definitely not a waterproofing quality from any sort of oil based dyes or infused wax in the leather. :confused:

As I suspected. It's a compound, not oil. It gets its waterproofing properties from the wax/paraffin. Paraffin is a cheap shortcut, I'll stick natural ingredients

[mikecch]

As I suspected. It's a compound, not oil. It gets its waterproofing properties from the wax/paraffin. Paraffin is a cheap shortcut, I'll stick natural ingredients

Haha, no wonder the water pearls. Paraffin is some strong stuff, and it doesn't work away easily like beeswax.

Just a suggestion with your homemade balm though, try to avoid neatsfoot. It does come from cattle but it's the fat extract from the useless/rejected parts. Nothing wrong with utilising the animal completely, but if you're going to put time and effort into it, I would suggest sourcing some beef tallow.

[ItsJustNC]

Natural veg. tanning doesn't exclude a stuffing process which will make the leather more waterproof.

I have to say mink oil doesn't saturate the leather any faster than other oils, neither does neatsfoot - although if you have saturated the leather so much that water pearls on the grain, then you've definitely over-doing the oiling

I won't reveal my whole recipe on a public forum, sorry; I'd much rather folks get interested and do some experiments of their own and explore new knowledge.

Although I can say that the basic leather conditioner formula can easily be found on the net.

The main ingredients are fats and water, with wax added as you like - the rest of the make-up and how you go about refining the formula will depend on your own experimentations.

Obviously things to think about include binding the water and oil, the final stability and consistency of the product, preventing the fats from going rancid, etc.

You'll find that different ingredients, different oils, etc will necessitate a change in the formula, so trial and error is your friend.

Yea, i think that the parrafin might be the culprit here.

Nah, don't worry mate, i was more interested in the process as compared to the recipe.

I wanna try this thing out myself, slowly learning through the process as compared to using a sure-fire recipe.

So how does one go about mixing the oils, water and wax.? Heat.? Or crazy ass stirring.?

As I suspected. It's a compound, not oil. It gets its waterproofing properties from the wax/paraffin. Paraffin is a cheap shortcut, I'll stick natural ingredients

Thanks a lot for solving the mystery..!

Just a suggestion with your homemade balm though, try to avoid neatsfoot. It does come from cattle but it's the fat extract from the useless/rejected parts. Nothing wrong with utilising the animal completely, but if you're going to put time and effort into it, I would suggest sourcing some beef tallow.

Ah... Just curious, what is the difference between using the fats of a useless parts as compared to tallow.? Isn't fats just fats.? Or does fats differ from the area where it's derived from.?

Anyways.. JUST HAD A RETARDED IDEA.! BACON OIL. AHAHAAHAHAHA. SOUNDS FUN. Imagine... Smelling like bacon. I'd be a delicacy for them chicks to munch on man. AHAHAHA

[mikecch]

You'll need both heat and agitation.

Fat from different parts differ in terms of extraction technique, purity and contaminants, as well as make-up.

What you want is mainly subcutaneous fat, not fats from hooves, bone, intramuscular collections, etc.

I'm no expert on the commercial processing of this kind of stuff though.

I've been told that beef and mutton tallow works well, but I haven't played around with them yet.

[ItsJustNC]

You'll need both heat and agitation.

Fat from different parts differ in terms of extraction technique, purity and contaminants, as well as make-up.

What you want is mainly subcutaneous fat, not fats from hooves, bone, intramuscular collections, etc.

I'm no expert on the commercial processing of this kind of stuff though.

I've been told that beef and mutton tallow works well, but I haven't played around with them yet.

Ahh... So i take it as that is science talk for "thow dem fats,wax and water in da pot and stir the shit of of dem." Haha.!

Hmm... Subcutaneous fats... Looks like imma have to make a trip down to the liposuction clinic.

Hey dudes, thank you so much for all the help..! Will try to get mah hands dirty ASAP. Will keep you guys posted.!

[mikecch]

^ Cheers mate

Just treat fat like you'd treat chocolate (if you've done baking before ) - heat gently, don't burn it, use a double boiler if you need to, and you'll be good to go!

[Paul T]

Am I the only person here who likes old-fashioned leather luggage?

so. Firstly, two commissions from Matt Forthergill.

Smaller tote in Cone indigo duck with leather detailing.

Lovely detailing:

Croc bag, with some end-of-roll Irish tweed I found for the lining

Lastly, my Mulberry Clipper. This was in a sale from a long time ago - a lot of money even half price, this was in the days when I had a salary. But I'm glad I got it, the quality has plummeted since then. THis is terrific, 1940s-style moc croc in a lovely tan color

[Happy Hooligan]

smashing bags!

[lance]

The croc bag is a real beauty!

[TheBlackGoat]

Paraffin wax is used by most professional saddlemakers and leather workers across the United States and England for edge burnishing cause of it purity and it ability to redye edges after burnishing.

it is also used in almost all leather finishing coatings.

so i am pretty sure its not bad for leather

just saying