Steel Feather MiJ - Heavy Oz denim

[Anders Helseth]

Happy meet so many fellow denim enthusiasts at the R&H launch party this Friday. Thanks for valuable feedback and all the support!

I'd have loved to speak more with everyone who attended, but time flies and there were so many people. Everyone who attended who have any questions about my stuff (or just want to chat a bit about denim) are more than welcome to get in touch with me. You can use [email protected], or even PM me here on the forum.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

PS! You can get in touch with me even if you weren't at the party

Edited October 28, 2012 by Surrealizm

[Megatron1505]

I had a chance to meet and speak with Anders on Friday at the Rivet and Hide party. Really nice guy, who's knowledge and passion for denim is evident when you speak to him.

I also had chance to take a close look at his 21oz jeans, and the denim and stitch quality is top drawer, really nice, well made jeans. I am looking forward to maybe seeing some of these jeans compete in the HWDC 2

[Anders Helseth]

^Thanks for the support Megatron. Happy to be able to make such a good impression on you

Edited November 3, 2012 by Surrealizm

[Anders Helseth]

Confirmed: "HWDC2" coupon code is now working at the check out of Rivet and Hide. 15 % off on SF jeans, as well as any other item you pick up at the same time; so if you want a high quality belt or new wallet with your jeans, or even a great shirt, then now's the time to get them.

Looking forward to see what people can do to my Steel Feather denim in the Superheavy category of the next round of Heavyweight Denim Championship!

They can be bought at this contestant exclusive price at: Rivet & Hide (London)

Steel Feather champions, suit up!

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

Edited December 4, 2012 by Surrealizm

[Anders Helseth]

Updated the above post with more information in regards to the Heavyweight Denim Championship Round 2!

[supersalami]

My 2nd pair of japanese denim, really love these, they are on the skinnier side though. The denim for these are sick! Super hair, and the dead stock fabrics & vintage details.... crazy...

Pre-soak

Untitled by ROYCEISPRINCE, on Flickr

Post Soak

Untitled by ROYCEISPRINCE, on Flickr

Post-hem

Untitled by ROYCEISPRINCE, on Flickr

[Anders Helseth]

^Thanks for sharing!

I'm really happy you're enjoying them. Keep us updated

[Anders Helseth]

If you're not already aware, the Warp & Weft documentary on denim has been completed. I've just watched it in HD and it was awesome and educational at the same time. A great trip for newcomer and veteran alike! It certainly hits the nail on the head on what makes us obsess over denim, and also what makes each it such a personal thing.

To enquire about getting your own hardcopy of this documentary get in touch with our very own DFreshLeish, Mr Devin Leisher!

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Anders Helseth]

Regarding HWDC2, you can still get Steel Feather SF0121 first edition at Rivet and Hide.

Hot tip for anyone thinking about participating (regardless of what jeans you're wearing): for such long term competitions be prepared with needle and thread and reinforce typical areas of strain, such as crotch. Scout out a tailor who can do fixes beforehand, and be prepared for when it breaks. Best case is to reinforce before serious damage happens

Personally I like seeing people put time and energy into keeping their jeans alive. Happy mending!

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

Edited December 15, 2012 by Surrealizm

[DFreshLeish]

Stoked to see some SF in the HDC2, planning on going in with a pair too. You've done such a good job with these Anders!

[Bobbo]

By all probability I'll also rock some SF. They seem so neat, looking forward to getting a first hand view on these badboys.

[spudboyblues]

Wow. Looking through this thread is really making me wish I weren't breaking in a new pair as I type this. Personally, I'm a fan of skinnier/skinny jeans, so I dig the original cut, and even stuff a tiny bit skinnier! If that becomes available in 6-8 months I might have to consider it...

[Anders Helseth]

Happy New Year, Superfuturians!

I sincerely hope you all had a great Christmas.

Last year was a wonderful year for me, and it wouldn't have been as great without you guys. I just want to take the opportunity to look back on some of the achievements and events of 2012, the year I brought Steel Feather out for the denim world to see.

• Trips to Japan to meet the actual people who are a part of the driving force behind the Japanese selvage denim and jeans we love and appreciate so much!
  
• Taking the great leap in going ahead with production of my very own design of SF0121 jeans.
  
• Steel Feather launched with success on the forum, and getting people's support and appreciation from day 1.
  
• Being the main presenter and an executive producer of the Warp & Weft documentary; I consider this a great achievement for both myself, the team and Steel Feather.
  
• My engagement with my lovely fiancé (let's see if 2013 will be the year!). Thanks for the support also in this major personal event.
  
• Getting in touch with Londoners Danny and Junior, and putting a lot of time and effort in supporting these passionate guys in building Rivet and Hide.
  
• Steel Feather getting its first stockist in Rivet and Hide.
  
• Meeting lots of lovely people and fellow denim heads at the Rivet and Hide launch party.
  
• Being announced as judge for the 2013-2015 HWDC2!!!
  

Looking at the list of achievements for 2012 it seems the year was filled with events. Overall, Steel Feather and myself has been well received, and I'm very happy with all the new friends and contacts I've made over the past year. Let's see what 2013 will bring us all, including Steel Feather and myself.

Thanks for reading and sharing!

Best Regards

Anders Helseth

Edited January 2, 2013 by Surrealizm

[Anders Helseth]

It's time to share some behind the scenes info again, and start off 2013. Below you can see the new tag team of denim makers who'll be responsible for making future runs of Steel Feather jeans. This duo consists of Yoshinori and his assistant Taisuke. While both are still young guys they have years of experience, as well as that super-geeky passion for detail and quality.

It was quite by chance that I met Yoshinori in his small workshop in Kojima, back when he was located 15 minutes walk away from the famous Kojima jeans street. Fate was kind to me that day, it seems, as I happened to come across a lovely indigo storefront. Inside I took to scrutinizing some of the jeans on display, and I was shortly after welcomed by Yoshinori. That was the start of a conversation that lasted a few hours. Luckily for me Yoshinori speaks pretty decent english, and I'm somewhat proficient myself, so we were able to communicate well. However, the most important stuff didn't need to be said in words, because we could easily understand each other's passion for denim and details, considering we both are such denim geeks.

(Above: Yoshinori; a cool guy who really knows his stuff - a real "Mozart" of denim. Riveted apron is self made too.)

Long story cut short, we exchanged contact information, and several Skype conversations and e-mails later we found that we wanted to work together for the sake of Steel Feather. After that I went back to Kojima for a lovely stay at Yoshinori's house, where I was well received by his father and mother. Needless to say his mother can cook some mean japanese dishes, and I got to experience real japanese home-cooked food! On top of that, they seemed very happy in spoiling me with such lovely food; as well as Yoshinori's dad's freshly caught fish of the day, grilled and spiced with a secret blend. (YUM!)

(Above: Taisuke, the assistant and apprentice of Yoshinori; originally from an Okinawan island. He's a passionate fan of american hip-hop, and liked to wear his selvage denim a bit baggy.)

However, I didn't spend most of my time enjoying the mouthwatering japanese cuisine, as I got to spend hour upon hour each day in the denim workshop. This is where we got together and made the ultimate sample for the second Steel Feather model, using the denim made by the master weaver (featured earlier in the thread). With Yoshinori and Taisuke there are no half measures, and he really immersed himself into the construction, considering every detail along the way. I've been wearing this sample just about every day since, and it's been nothing short of the best jeans I've ever worn.

With my trusty Canon I was able to document the process from start to finish, and I was able to capture about 90 % of all the steps necessary to make a pair of jeans. Now, let's start this off with the first 3 pictures of how Steel Feather jeans are made:

(Above: Yoshinori always allignes the layers by hand.)

(Above: even this step took a few minutes to complete.)

(Above: Yoshinori is now satisfied with how the layers are alligned, and next step will be drafting the pattern unto the fabric.)

More pictures to come, so make sure to follow my thread for updates

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Anders Helseth]

Enjoying some warm pure sake, made in the old style, which I bought directly at the small sake factory in Kurashiki city, Okayama. I regret leaving my camera in the workshop.

Don't miss the "look back at 2012" two posts up!

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Megatron1505]

Three competitors in the HWDC2 will be wearing Steel Feather jeans, I would like there to be more. Step up guys, this is some beautiful denim.

[Bobbo]

Down to the final thoughprocess regarding sizing before ordering a pair for HWDC 2, woop woop!

Afraid the 34" is gonna get too roomy after they've stretched out again. Perhaps it's better to go with a 33" and a quick soak instead?

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

Down to the final thoughprocess regarding sizing before ordering a pair for HWDC 2, woop woop!

Afraid the 34" is gonna get too roomy after they've stretched out again. Perhaps it's better to go with a 33" and a quick soak instead?

Hi Bobbo, I just Pm'd you with some sizing advice. Good to see more SF participants in HWDC2.

[Bobbo]

Cheers Danny! Just happy to be a part of the family.

[Anders Helseth]

Here are more pictures from the process of making Steel Feather jeans:

(Above: pattern in place; using a blue pencil the pattern is drafted onto the denim.)

(Above: time to cut out the first piece.)

(Above: "It' in the details." - Yoshinori)

(Above: there we go; a piece of the button fly is ready. Selvage will be visible on the inside of the fly on the finished jeans.)

Stay tuned in for more pictures.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[tigerpac]

Love the pics of the process like that - keep em coming!

[Anders Helseth]

Love the pics of the process like that - keep em coming!

Sure will!

[Anders Helseth]

Another follow up on the process of making Steel Feather jeans:

(Above: More pieces of the pattern to draft onto the fabric.)

(Above: pieces of my pattern scattered on top of the denim.)

(Above: weight is put on pattern to keep it from moving. Simple, yet crucial.)

Happy Saturday!

More pics to come.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Bobbo]

The Steel Feathers arrived earlier today and they sure look just as awsome as I hoped. Love all the details and the stitching is definitely better than on my 101Z 23oz.

Will try to get some pre/post soak pics when I have the time. For now a sneakpeak will have to do.

[Anders Helseth]

Happy Saturday everyone! I'm back with more process pictures from The Making of Steel Feather jeans:

(Above: The pattern pieces must be placed correctly according to the grain of the fabric.)

(Above: More drafting of pattern pieces unto the denim.)

(Above: The "coin" pocket piece of the pattern has been cut out.)

More pictures to come! "Follow" the thread to stay tuned with updates.

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Anders Helseth]

Get the wonderful Warp & Weft documentary here: http://www.redguerrillamedia.com/purchase.html

By denim heads for denim heads!

Kind Regards

Anders Helseth

[Danny @ Rivet & Hide]

We now have a re-stock of all sizes in Steel Feather SF0121 jeans

http://rivetandhide.com/brands/steel-feather/steel-feather-0121-jean.html

[mandel9000]

Love the photos and how they shed light on the whole process! I'm a little low on funds at the moment, but when that changes I'm getting a Steel Feather jean for sure.

[LeftOfRitual]

I'm trying to post a pic of my fit from Flikr - how do I do that? Put links below.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/92373919@N05/8397063903/in/photostream

http://www.flickr.com/photos/92373919@N05/8398149304/in/photostream/

Size 31 (I am 5ft9, 143lbs for reference) after 1hr hot soak. The waist shrunk approx 2.5 inches which surprised me a little but I am happy with them now. Snug but still comfortable. Will get them hemmed soon also.

Edited January 20, 2013 by LeftOfRitual

[mandel9000]

Size 31 (I am 5ft9, 143lbs for reference) after 1hr hot soak. The waist shrunk approx 2.5 inches which surprised me a little but I am happy with them now. Snug but still comfortable.

Very nice fit, LeftOfRitual! Since we have the same height and weight (though I imagine quite different body shape since I'm a girl), would you mind measuring the upper thigh for me?