Shoes that look better with age...

[GregNYC]

I've got a pair of RW GTs in black cherry ... what regimen do you use to take care of them? I've used Sno-Seal and Obenauf's on other work boots in the past, but those seem to change the character of the leather and I don't know what they'd do to the GTs. ... What do you use on the uppers? What about the welt and the leather sole? Thanks in advance!

Being Gentleman Travelers, these boots were designed as dressier boots for the working man. Something between his working boots and a pair of real dress shoes. These GTs would be worn on on a train trip, not down at the auto shop. So they probably won't get too scuffed and beat up. The gentleman won't intentionally wear them out in the rain, though he might get caught in the rain once or twice. So along with this concept, he'd polish these boots, not coat them with the same conditioner he uses for his real working boots.

Uppers: For the scuffs, use Oxblood Kiwi polish, which is about the closest polish to the boots' black cherry. You can put like 2 or 3 thin coats on the first time, as long as you brush and polish in between applications. Mine are quite shiny. They can get shiny, even glossy if you keep at it. (I haven't kept up with my pair because they are too narrow for me.) After the Oxblood, next time you polish them, switch to tan or neutral. Too much Oxblood will turn them towards red,. If you find that happening, just use a coat of Kiwi black or Parade Gloss. But both these colors will darken the black cherry color. Which is why I'd recommend the tan or neutral for the long run, which are lighter than the black cherry tone. Use Oxblood when you get scuffs or want to move th color towards the cherry again.

Also, be careful not to get the polish on the natural leather midsole, as this is one of the most distinctive things about the GTs.

Leather Midsole: These really aren't designed to be weather-proof, so you won't be able to water-proof them. The stitch holes haven't been covered. For wet weather, I'd just wear different boots. So you really don't need anything at all on the midsole. Almost anything you apply to it will darken it, and it won't look as vintage. But if you do plan on wearing these in wet weather, then put a thin thin coat of Sno Seal around the edges, and at the waist. I say "thin" because a thick coat will darken the leather more, and also create a tacky surface that will attract gunk.

They'll look better after even the one polish! Mine look better than out of the box!

[buga]

Hi all Experts ,

i am interested in getting a pair of Alden Indy and Red Wing 1911,

but i still wonder what size should i go for after doing some research on net .

I normally wear :

US Size 9.5 D in Red Wing 8166 and 0931 (which is pretty "fit" if wearing a pair of thin socks, and no room inside.)

US Size 10 in Clarks

US Size 11 in most Nike/ Adidas/ Vans sneakers

US Size 10 in Converse

In the Indy case,

i was thinking to get the Indy in 9.5D , as i wanted to wear thick socks with the Indy, and Trubalance last is about 1/2 size larger than regular . (i think i am a size 10 in most of the boots and leathers shoes)

The thing is i came across an eBay auction of Indy boot 9.5E, the seller measured the boots across the bottom , and he got 12.5 inches .

I measured my red wing 8166, and i got 12 inches .

so should i go down to size 9 for the Indy ?

In the red wing 1911 case,

people saying it is about half size / one size bigger than normal red wing ,

is it true ?

which size should i go for ?

many thanks ,

Buga .

[edmond]

just to revive the link for kinjiro-san

http://kinhiro-web.hp.infoseek.co.jp/boot.htm

wesco

whites

buco

crazy japanese boot/denim/leather /jacket collector

enjoy

[coleslawyum]

so should i go down to size 9 for the Indy ?

many thanks ,

Buga .

In regards to the Indy's I think it's pretty true to size. I'm a 8.5D and I wear that size in Aldens, White's, Red Wings, Wesco, and Chippewa. Bascially a lot of the American shoe companies. (except for Frye's. I gotta size down one half.)

So if you are usually a 9.5, I would do a 9.5 it for the Indy's. Make sure you have your width correctly measured.

[GregNYC]

US Size 9.5 D in Red Wing 8166 and 0931 (which is pretty "fit" if wearing a pair of thin socks, and no room inside.)

I measured my red wing 8166, and i got 12 inches .

so should i go down to size 9 for the Indy ?

In the red wing 1911 case, people saying it is about half size / one size bigger than normal red wing, is it true ?

which size should i go for ?

Sizing is pretty consistent between Red Wing and Alden. Go for 9.5 for the Indies. You might be OK on the E width. The 1911s are harder to fit, because they are narrow and there are no widths. Start with a 9.5 and wear them just indoors till you see if they fit. If not, then keep the box and receipts and stuff in case you have to send them back.

[buga]

thanks for answering .

i think i will go for 9.5 on both Indy and 1911 .

and see are they good enuff for my foot .

much appreciated .

[Ichiran]

Thanks for the great advice, Greg!

Being Gentleman Travelers, these boots were designed as dressier boots for the working man. Something between his working boots and a pair of real dress shoes. ... So along with this concept, he'd polish these boots, not coat them with the same conditioner he uses for his real working boots.

This makes a lot of sense, and it's how I see the GTs, too. One thing I love about this thread is the amount of thought that people invest into their footwear, and this is a great example.

For the scuffs, use Oxblood Kiwi polish, which is about the closest polish to the boots' black cherry. ... After the Oxblood, next time you polish them, switch to tan or neutral. ... I'd recommend the tan or neutral for the long run, which are lighter than the black cherry tone. Use Oxblood when you get scuffs or want to move th color towards the cherry again.

I just wanted to ask, will the oxblood polish stain the white stitching on the uppers? Its obviously another distinctive feature of RWs, and I'd hate to lose it through the polishing. Thanks again!

[GregNYC]

I just wanted to ask, will the oxblood polish stain the white stitching on the uppers? Its obviously another distinctive feature of RWs, and I'd hate to lose it through the polishing. Thanks again!

Yes, there's a lot of dye in Oxblood. BTW you can also use Cordovan, which I think is Kiwi's newer name for that shade. What you can do is go over the stitching first with a few base coats of neutral Kiwi. Apply just to the stitching and a bit around it. Rub the polish in as though you're sanding the threads. Then brush vigorously and buff with a clean towel or nylon stocking. Then re-apply the neutral at least once again, repeat.

*Then* you do the Oxblood polish.... And even if you are not so careful of the stitched areas, they'll stay white.

P.S. One way to protect the welt and natural midsole from Oxblood color during polishing is to tape it up with masking tape before polishing. Even brushing can transfer polish from the colored areas to the neutral areas....

If this sounds like a lot of work, just think of all those guys wearing 2-tone spectator shoes!

[edmond]

so greg in short you mean to say is that the neutral polish will protect the white stitches ( on indies) from the brown polish i will use on the leather right? have to apply it 2 or more times?

ok here my shoe shine kit

heres the lineup

heres the oxblood beside the black

[GregNYC]

Pretty good supplies, but I think you need some cotton handkerchiefs. One for neutral/tan/brown, and one for Oxblood/black. Same for brushes. This way you don't smear color from the darker shoes to the lighter shoes.

Also, something like these ladies knee-high hose can be used after the brush stage to add a higher shine. It's instead of spit-shining! They are cheap and widely available at druggist's and grocery stores.

[edmond]

thanks greg yeah have those stockings its right there inside the plastic.. yeah i use the small horsehair for the darker shades and the big HH for the neutral and just to brush dirt off...

i got all these from your adivce! been really helpfull

but.. by applying the neutral on the threads them be helping not to be afflicted by colored polish right? ( just need to confirm )

thanks buddy!

[Ichiran]

Nice kit, demonito. I really like the wooden box -- very classy!

I was at the Sartorialist blog, and he's got a series of photos taken at John Lobb in London. Some nice pictures, including an amazing shot of hundreds of lasts stacked on shelves:

http://thesartorialist.blogspot.com/2008/06/original-john-lobb-london.html

[edmond]

thank you and thanks for the link very nice!

[HumanError]

On to the next one...

[heinrich BCN]

Wow, those look nice...and will look even nicer, when worn in, not out.... ;-)

But the side down at the sole looks pretty rough, but we talked about that before, didn't we.

[HumanError]

^Yep, sure did. As I said, I got nuthin but love for that rough welt.

[GregNYC]

but.. by applying the neutral on the threads them be helping not to be afflicted by colored polish right? ( just need to confirm )

Oh, forgot last time. Yes, putting neutral polish on the threads should protect them from the brown polish soaking into the textile, whatever it is, probably poly-cotton threading. And you're right - the operative word is "helps." It won't get it 100% colorfast. So later, after your 2-3 coats of neutral on the threads, just go easy in those areas when you apply the brown polish.

I know Airfrog would think we're too crazy about this. "Just put brown polish on 'em, that's enough!" :-)

And by the way, that is a way cool polish box! Classic looking, like something from a 1950s TV show! I keep my suppies in a way ugly bag from my job!

[heinrich BCN]

By the way, is there a difference between "roughout" and "suede" leather?

[watchcollector2454]

i have a question related to roughout leather as well. how do you care for it?

tx

[mikeinthefuture]

look into australian boots. boots by blundstones or rm williams will last a lifetime and they look beautiful. each RM Williams boot is made from a single piece of leather with only a stitch up the back. they age beautifully and are fully waterproof.(which is good for those livin in vancouver.. haha)

[Tom is dead.]

Just because I've always wondered, is the Australian Boot Company store a good deal or what? I think RM Williams there are like $375. I wouldn't buy a pair but I wonder if they are worth recommending.

[xchen]

I'm waiting on my RM Williams to ship. I ordered them about 2-3 weeks ago. All said and done I think it was going to come to about 300 USD shipped.

[xoxo]

my shoes..

[mikeinthefuture]

Just because I've always wondered, is the Australian Boot Company store a good deal or what? I think RM Williams there are like $375. I wouldn't buy a pair but I wonder if they are worth recommending.

The Australian Boot Company is where I got my pair of Blundstone's. They're not as sexy as the RM Williams, they're a little more work/casual(most importantly water-proof) oriented but still age beautifully. The store has got some really nice boots and If I was made of money I would definately get a pair of RM Williams. But since I am not, I can't afford that. Maybe in a few years though.

The boots literally last a life time. Last time I was there, a guy came in to get his pair re-soled. He got them in 1976. Does that answer your question? haha

[edmond]

i have a q. greg... how o you keep your shoes? do you keep em in the box ? or just lay around the house in a shoe rack .. which would be better for them? thanks cause after i use my boots/shoes i clean them up and put them up in the box with some silica gel

so lemme know whats best thanks!

[Bill2]

Rosebowl flea market find! Allen Edmonds Bradely in #8 Shell. $20!!

[rnrswitch]

Wow, bill. I gotta wash my contest warehouse jeans, cuz I just shit myself.

BTW what size? If they don't fit, I would be interested...

[Bill2]

Wow, bill. I gotta wash my contest warehouse jeans, cuz I just shit myself.

BTW what size? If they don't fit, I would be interested...

They're 9D, but they fit perfectly!!

They do make me realize, however that my Alden 4060 #8 Shell boots are really too large...They are a 10E, and have had white dot Cats Paws put on them....Anybody interested?

*Pics taken just after re-soling...worn maybe 6 times since...new pics avail if anybody's interested.

[indigo_junkie]

look into australian boots. boots by blundstones or rm williams will last a lifetime and they look beautiful. each RM Williams boot is made from a single piece of leather with only a stitch up the back. they age beautifully and are fully waterproof.(which is good for those livin in vancouver.. haha)

I thought with the PU sole that Blundstones use, they weren't resoleable. Not that it matters. I usually buy a new pair of blunnies every two years and chuck out the old pair. I get the cheaper work pairs, round $80 a pair. I use them primarily as a riding boot. I have two pairs of RMW for formal occasions and for going out. Blunnies for every day use. My RMWs are 5 years old now, and still look near new. Probably get them resoled in about 5 years time.

[fre-co]

Bill, those AE are superb. $20 is an outright bargain. I really like the styling, recently I've been eyeing up V-tip, and Norwegian toe shoes, particularly some that Leathersoul had last year or so. I think they will look great with cuffed denim. (pics?).

Here's some I have been drooling over....

fucking whisky cordovan...