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Shoes that look better with age...

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Let me know if you see other zug grain or veldtschoen boots and I'll add details here.

Definitions: Zug Grain is embossed leather, originally based on a swiss tanning method, I believe. These days its used for a grain which is more subtle than scotch grain. Note how the grain is smoother over high tension areas, like the toecaps. It's less porous than conventional leather, often taken from older animals (with thicker skin?) and being more waterproof is often associated with Veldtschoen construction.

Veldtschoen, aka feldschoen, aka field shoe, construction, is according to tradition more waterproof - the upper turns outwards and is stitched directly to the midsole. It is also supposed to be more flexible, and easier to repair. Like zug grain, it's become associated with military boots, and also country wear. There's a diagram of construction here.

Other zug and country grain boots

William Lennon 107F

sargentzug.png

To try and keep this all together, some more zug grain.

Although they're a chunkier shape, we shouldn't forget good old William Lennon. I bet you could order a zug version of their WW1 boot This is their 107F Zug grain - a bargain, at around £129. William Lennon

Tyrwhitt

THen we have the afromentioned Tyrwhitt. Possibly made by Loake?. I've only really mentioned these as they're available at an attractive closeout price, £139 from the Tyrwhitt site - or £149 from eBay!. Dainite soles & a more conventional construction, rather like the AS Culford.

Alfred Sargent Culford

culfordright.jpg

This is the AS Culford - note they have a more standard construction, and a true toe cap, and are not veldtschoen. Like the Tyrwhit, these are more refined, and rather less military: These retail at around £275, more details at the Alfred Sargent website.

And here are some beautifull MTO Culford, taken from the Ask Andy forum:

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?93998-Alfred-Sargent-quot-Kelso-quot&p=1007866#post1007866

AS Culford in burgundy:

customculford2.jpg

AS special order in dark brown zug grain:

customcolford.jpg

pics courtesy clontonf on askandy

Crocket & Jones Coniston

DSCN1882.jpg

This is a country grain boot, like the Culford. Pic courtesy of lfc4ever.Their website is here.

Vintage Veldtschoen

CTB's Lotus Veldtschoen

Lastly, how can we miss out Ben's Lotus Veldtschoen? Lotus are a defunct manufacturer, well known for making military veldtschoen. Look on eBay and you'll find a lot of beautiful old ads for them.

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.

C&J for S&H

MVC-004L_27.JPG

Another vintage pair, apparently made by Crocket and Jones for Shipton & Heneage, although these have the more military-style vamp as seen on AS and the Rannochs. Available from Classic Shoes For Men

The seller has a couple of examples (I can't see prices, which scares me) - another C&J for S&H is here: http://www.classicshoesformen.com/shoes/neuwertig-crockett-jones-shipton-heneage-zug-grain-feldschoen-navvy-boot43-435d

These is my own Lotus Veldtschoen. Note the distinctive batwing scalloping,

lotues2.jpg

Tongue construction: note the strip of zug, integral with the uppers, down the middle, and a plain leather for the bellows tongue. These are marked "guaranteed waterproof."

lotus6.jpg

Let me know if you see other zug grain or veldtschoen boots and I'll add details here.

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thank you Paul

you make my day.

i already want to buy a pair of these...

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Thanks for the zug-dump Paul T :)

I think the Shoe Healer has a special make of AS zug-grain boots as well, in a darker espresso colour.

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Cheers, Mike. Do you mean THese Brogues?.

THey are lovely, altho I'm going to steer clear of the zug or scotch grain brogues, as the variations are then endless.

SHoehealer Special Zug brogues

sargentshoehealer.jpg

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^ Ah I see. Yeah, those...looks fantastic!

I'd like a pair of Culfords or Kelsos without the toe-cap stitching.

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these came in the mail today, thanks jstarvin :D

3d8fd6e3.jpg

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These are lovely

Selkirk MTO (Walnut waxy, toecap stitching omitted)

http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?93998-Alfred-Sargent-quot-Kelso-quot&highlight=Selkirk

post 16

Thanks for that!

Seriously thinking about getting a Culford MTO (although this seems a no-no atm?), or dyeing a pair black myself.

BTW, Melbourne now has Grenson and Loake (at a store called Beggar Man Thief).

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I bet you can get a Culford MTO - maybe try try shoehealer, or go direct?

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^ Alright then, my Whites MTO funds will go to AS instead...will contact Shoe Healer now.

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Guys when I asked A Fine Pair of Shoes for the Culford in a particular size earlier this week they said yes, it would be £245. Found them on Tredders for £204 so went that route. But I guess if they'll make the standard to order I'm sure they'd make it in a different leather.

Paul - those Bureau ones are amazing, they also do a dainite outsole toecap version with hook fastening can't decide which I like the best ( but I better not buy either).

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^ Cheers Paul, I just figured Shoe Healer has free international shipping (I know AS does discounted shipping too).

I'm keen to have the Culford made in black zug, veldtschoen, double-mid-sole with commando sole, no toe caps, and a different (higher and more roomy) last - there lies my problem though, I have no idea of the different lasts AS uses apart from the regular ones (this is where I hope Shoe Healer will be able to help me.)

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Shit the bed, I turn my back for a couple of hours and come back to an orgy of country boots... :D

LFC, thanks for the pics of the Skye and Coniston - they will both be mine, one happy day in the future...how do you find the fit on the Skye? I've seen a pair that are an 11 (I'm normally 10 - 10.5) and I keep on going back to them, trying to convince myself that it'll be just fine...

Paul - great work to get all those beauties in one place. I'll get some pics up up the Lotus once they've been resoled and I've given them a decent once-over.

A few pics to keep in the spirit of the last couple of pages:

Tricker's Grasmere - could have gone down half a size but glad I didn't as these, along with the Arran below, are probably the comfiest of the boots I own...the zug is ageing beautifully:

dscf2318bi.jpg

Tricker's Eaton - essentially a MTO semi-brogued Stow. You know you're onto a winner when people stop in the street and comment:

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Tricker's Burford - that beautiful marron colour mentioned a couple or three pages ago:

dscf2324m.jpg

Tricker's Stow - pulled the heel tab off one of them in the week, being fixed as we speak!

dscf2326.jpg

Crockett and Jones Arran - same kind of vamp as the AS posted by Paul, except these are stitched under instead of over:

dscf2330t.jpg

Just sneaked in and won a pair of C&J George boots on eBay for £11, battered to fuck but I'll see what can be done with them...

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CTB - LFC, thanks for the pics of the Skye and Coniston - they will both be mine, one happy day in the future...how do you find the fit on the Skye? I've seen a pair that are an 11 (I'm normally 10 - 10.5) and I keep on going back to them, trying to convince myself that it'll be just fine...

I'm a 10.5 - 11 in the Trickers with a 5 width, 10.5 with 6 width, although can wear 11 in 5 width with thicker socks. 11E is perfect in C and J Skye and Conistonand it turns out 11F in Alfred Sargent is great. I would think therefore that the 11E in the Skye might be little big but you could use an insole?

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Place holder post for my pair of C&J Islay. Took some pictures but won't have time to upload until later but wanted in on the orgy of Brit boots. Ok here you go. First one is most accurate color wise.

DSCN1449.jpg

DSCN1444.jpg

DSCN1442.jpg

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wow, your collection has grown so much CTB! I remember not too long ago you just started to wear boots

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wow, your collection has grown so much CTB! I remember not too long ago you just started to wear boots

I used to have around 50 pairs of trainers...now I've around 20...

Found a new obsession, maybe? ;)

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After looking at that slide show that was posted awhile back (here: http://riotgeer.blogspot.com/2009/01/veldtschoen-photo-essay.html), I began wondering about whether all stitch down construction is in fact veldtschoen. Does anyone know about this?

I ask because Wesco and Viberg both use stitch down construction on most of their boots, but they don't seem to "stitch down" all the way around the shoe. My Wescos show that only the vamp is really stitched down, which must mean that they are not a true veldtschoen construction, but they do seem like a hybrid of sorts.

You can see that the edge of the vamp folds back under near the seam:

p><p><img src=Picture 926 by ray.wendolowski, on Flickr[/img]

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what jeans are those rey?

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yeah looks really good

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usign that same denim? or something else that looks like it?

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usign that same denim? or something else that looks like it?

From what I've been told, he has a small supply of the exact same denim Sugar Cane used, but I only heard this in the thread.

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Paul, you can add the C&J Snowdon to the list there.

This thread has gone English boot mad! Wonderful stuff. Perhaps I should post an update on mine soon.

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