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  1. 50 points
    "My favorite color is blue, what size should I wear?" Bruh, l'm not one to snap on people on a forum but you're so low effort I hope someone negative reps you to prevent you from buying on these forums. Your laziness aside, which ACG bottoms? The wide legged ones or the skinny ones? The ones without stretch or with? The pants are gigantic and there is a small exchange, I don't know, ~4–5 pages back about this. Basically, you're sizing super/ultra wide Acronym pants on your height. Some people are 6'5"/196cm+ wearing small pants sizes for waist fit and they'll prolly need size L P23/P30 for height and normative fit. If you're intending to buy $1600+ pants and deprive more deserving community members of these pantaloons, at least go back a few pages. Finally, I'm going to assume you're a hypebeast manlet so you should go XS.
  2. 44 points
    Warehouse Lot 800 after a year and a half of wearing
  3. 42 points
    I discovered LVC a couple of years ago, and have learnt so much from these pages - thank you all - that I thought I'd try to give something back. On a summer holiday with my family in Devon, England in 1966, when I was 12, my older sister said why don’t I spend my holiday money (£5), on a pair of Levi’s. I’d never heard of them, and she proceeded to tell me all about them, saying that they were made in America, were very desirable and I'd be really cool if I had a pair. I wasn't interested, especially as it would mean blowing my holiday money in one go, but she persisted and persuaded me to at least go with her and try a pair on. Looking back, I think I was her guinea-pig! Off we went to Exmouth, and found a Millets (an 'outdoor' chain which stocked Levi's). At this time 501's were simply known as Levi's - that's all we had available, the other styles starting to come over, at least to the south-west, later. So the shopkeeper measured me up and recommended W28 L36, explaining that they shrunk 2" in the waist and 4" in the leg. I duly tried them on and from then on life was never quite the same. We left the shop, with very little change, if any, from my fiver, with me wearing my new Levi's (with a belt on to hold them up), feeling fabulous, with the labels and my old (Mum-bought) jeans in a bag. I was awestruck by the stiffness and weight, by the two horse patch and the red tab, the smell, the ruggedness and toughness, and the image. They were like no other jeans, or clothes, I'd ever seen; something from another planet, and woke something up in me - a lifelong love of 501's and good denim. Also the beginnings of fashion-consciousness, I suppose. I took the ticket and flasher into school after the summer holidays, and showed the other kids - it turned out I was the first in our year to own Levi's. The labels got passed round and everyone was impressed. For a brief time I was the cool kid! That year, everyone seemed to be getting Levi's and Wranglers (the Wranglers - I had a pair - were amazing, too, but that's another story...), and a few Lee's. The girls all wore men's 501's and loved them. It was a while 'til women-specific's arrived. The patch had 502-0117 on them which I think was how the zip-fly version of the 501 was denoted. The only leg lengths available, at least in our area, were 34 and 36. I lived near Gloucester, where we had a Millets and also a gents' outfitter called Leslie Hull, next to the Odeon cinema. He had one wall of 501's, sorted into sizes; zip-fly in one section, button-fly in another. On the opposite wall were Wranglers, either in straight leg or tapered, and otherwise identical. He seemed to stock very little else - such was the demand, I suppose. What an Aladdin's cave. Oh, the smell! I was fascinated by the way they had a shape of their own, and wore them for ages before washing them, not wanting to spoil things. Again, it was my sister who persuaded me to wash them, reminding me that they were shrink-to-fit and that washing was an essential part of the process. We tucked any excess length inside - no-one wore turn-ups/cuffs on jeans then, apart from the skinheads (de rigeur) and some Mods, always very small cuffs. It was considered very uncool and a bit rustic. As the jeans shrank or you grew, you just let out a bit more length. This was the style. I needn't have worried - after they were washed they were even stiffer. The shrinkage was unbelievable - they almost bore no resemblance to the raw jeans. I'm sure the guy was right when he said 4" off the length, though I never bothered to measure anything. A lot of leg-twist, too. The two sides of the zip didn't line up any more - they were so buckled with the shrinkage. The solution was to do the zip up before buttoning the top button. We didn't have a washing machine so washing took place in the kitchen sink. The water was quite literally like ink - I could hardly see my hands, and had blue fingernails for a couple of days. Into the top-loading spin drier for rinsing, with the rinse water coming out blue, rinse after rinse. This was the case for the first several washes. No-one in those days was concerned with fussing over raw denim - the concept didn't seem to exist. We were aware of the 'sit in the bath and wear until dry' method, but being so bloody cold and wet here for so much of the time you could have waited months for an opportunity! The dye bled into the white weave and turned it a lovely deep blue. The kitchen looked like an explosion in a dye factory and my Mum freaked out. She must have been intrigued though - shortly after she wore nothing but one-wash 501's, from her mid-forties to when she died aged 85, often with a faded type 3 jacket. The denim was tough, thick and hairy, and very stiff. There was very much a hand-made feel to the jeans and they needed hard breaking in - they made you waddle when first put on after washing. Later on when my sister bought her own 501's, the kid next door, who worked on a building-site, offered to wear her jeans there to break them in. Levi's were jeans which you beat the hell out of and would still last forever, and which looked better for being faded and beaten up. And which by some alchemy had become a fashion item! They were very much considered to be work wear, and that's what we were told they were - that's how they were sold to us. We never thought of them as anything else - they just happened to look, and be, amazing. The 'flaws' in the weave, the varying stitching, the fact that everyone else's pair looked slightly different to yours reinforced this workwear vibe. It seemed like there was no effort at uniformity in production, which made them really special in our eyes - the aim was simply to make jeans that were extremely well-built and would last and last. When they were washed they fitted snugly round the bum. After wearing for a while, they'd stretch out and bag a bit. Eventually they'd settle down and were neither tight nor loose - perfect. This wash/wear/stretch/shrink and repeat process was the key to getting a lovely moulded fit - it didn't happen after just one wash. Every time I put them on, it was a Clark Kent/Superman moment. (It still feels like that today! I wear 47 and 76 LVC repro's, the 76's being the closer denim to my original 66's but with less shrinkage, less stiffness and less pronounced puckering. Still lovely denim, though. My 47's are fading nicely and showing a superb red cast. I've got my first LVC 66's on order, hopefully delivered before Cone runs out). My jeans had a very pronounced 'flaw' running all the way across the right lower leg, as if the loom had malfunctioned for a few passes. There was a similar defect running the whole width behind the left rear pocket. I loved these imperfections. The stitching was several shades of orange and yellow, and used to vary from pair to pair. I'm sure at least some of it was cotton - the arctuates were often partly worn off jeans, leaving a trail of dark blue behind. I vaguely remember a 501 ad. campaign saying 'Every Pair Is Different'. I could never quite understand why heavy denim work jeans, riveted and bar tacked, should have such a weak-seeming outer leg seam - where was the strength in that join, especially when compared with contemporary Wranglers - double-stitched inner and outer leg seams? But I guess they knew what they were doing, never a problem. The rivets were domed, not punch-through, and must have had a high copper content - they used to get covered in verdigris, but the domes stayed polished through wear. The back pockets were quite big - a tad bigger than the LVC 47's, and a very similar shape - maybe a bit more square. I can't remember how shallow or curved the arcs were. The zip had a number on it, which I can't remember. I never even looked for a number on the waist button. There was quite a lot of width to the selvage outer seam, so the 'train-tracks' were quite wide. The jeans shrank a bit more for the first several washes, but the dye loss became much less pronounced. We used to wash our jeans about once a week. Though beginning to be fashion conscious, we were still very active kids and needed to wash them! The dye seemed to pool in the crevices and creases and stay there. In the high wear areas, the denim would become bone-white - contrasty fades happened without even thinking about it. All the seams would pucker beautifully (all that shrinkage and twisting...), and create some lovely fade patterns - the 'peaks' would become bone-white, with the 'valleys' a lovely deep blue. Generally, they faded really fast, and the colour was really beautiful. Pretty soon, as I grew I got my second pair, W30 L36 and sold my 28's to a smaller friend. In my early twenties my sister gave me her (men's) 501's, as she didn't wear them any more. They were faded and still totally intact - even the paper patch and the arcs. They were W32 L36, and they fitted me perfectly, no turn-ups, like a W30 L32. The red cast of the denim dye was really apparent and was quite lovely. I hope this is of interest! All the best.
  4. 42 points
    Hey...cutting some gear loose to fund a project. Drop me a PM if you have any questions. 3A-1 Laminant Black with Green strap - Condition 9/10 - $850 SOLD J43A-GT - Size Large - condition is 10/10 - Barely worn !! $1375 SOLD 3A-MZ3 - Black Foil - condition is 10/10 - $400 $375 (This is a set of two) SOLD Still Looking to move the J57. J57TS-SS - condition is 10/10 - $975 $950 All have bags & spec sheets. Free shipping for US sales; PM me for working out International. Paypal +4% or F&F. I'm an honest seller with refs here on the thread...not out to burn anyone, that's just bad karma.
  5. 40 points
    Been waiting a while and I was finally able to get some time to do this. It's cool seeing the differences between generations of these models and how they've improved (and sometimes even areas where they don't). But basically it's just plain fun to nerd out. Differences in the in the sleeve patterns. The e-J1a is a size L and the J1ts-s is an XL for reference. You'll notice how the e-j1a actually has a baggier sleeve despite being a smaller size. They have a really similar shape which is a nice carry over from one iteration to the next. Of course, the pocket addition is definitely one of the more noticeable changes. I really like seeing the differences between how the underarm was patterned. It's a little hard to see but the e-j1a was a lot simpler than the j1ts-s. This is one of my favorite parts of the jacket because it's so functional. It's a noticeable different when you're wearing the jacket and you can see how the jacket is pulling as you move your arms around. The short sleeve is also constructed differently - the e-j1a is literally a short sleeve wrapped around the longer sleeve while the j1ts-s is patterned and sewn into the longer sleeve. Here's a shot of the gravity pockets of the j1ts-s and the e-j1a. It's kind of hard to see but the e-j1a is completely hidden and you can only access it from the cuff. The j1ts-s' pocket placement is a little weird imo because when your arms are at your side they warp the fabric a little around the forearm (because of the stiffness of the zipper) and it ends up looking a little weird. I was waiting for the laundry machine to rinse out any leftover detergent and I realized that I could throw in the j47a-gt for a comparison as well. Sorry for the dark images! Here are some shots of the underarm and of the shoulder. The e-j1a and j1ts-s have really simple shoulder lines but the j47a does something it a little differently. I think of the zippered versions of the gravity pockets I prefer the placement of the j47a the most - it's closer to the back of the forearm so it doesn't mess with the shape of the sleeve too much. But sometimes when I'm walking the zipper tab flips up and down as it catches the side seam of the jacket. So functionally, I think I prefer the hidden gravity pockets of the e-j1a because it's the least obtrusive. These are just some shots of some fun details that I really like on the e-j1a. The flak pocket is so over the top and definitely makes it the most used pocket on the entire jacket. I think there are technically four pockets in that area - main flak pocket, phone pocket, open side entry pocket (don't know how else to describe this one), and another side entry pocket with a zipper. Also the webbing with slits cut into it for your headphones (which I never use because it's such a hassle to thread them through).
  6. 38 points
    Happy new year to all denim fetishists out there!
  7. 38 points
    J16 journey through the years. SS-J16/LRG jeans/Black cement IIIs GT-J16/P10TS-DS/LF1 J16-GT/P10A-E/AVM
  8. 37 points
    DON'T WANNA LOCK—SO PLEASE DON'T ADD UNRELATED STUFF OR RANDOM COMMENTARY TO THIS THREAD. ACRNM INFO IS FINE! RE: THE FAQ, PLEASE RESPOND WITH ACRONYM SPECIFIC CHANGES PM CORRECTIONS/ADDITIONS TO SECTIONS. I WILL REVISE AS NEEDED. DISCLAIMER: ERLSN doesn’t really verify a lot of this so it’s largely speculation as to internal Acronym labeling etc. Where do I buy these sick garmz? See vendor thread, BST thread, eBay, Facebook BST, and Grailed. When is stuff released? SS20XX~Middle of March–Beginning of April, FW20XX–20XX+1 Middle of September–Beginning of October. Do other sites carry 3A stuff? Not since SS16. Only ACRNM.COM, drops intermittently in addition to around the time of general line releases. Why is the retail price/resale so high? Health-goth and athleisure is so last year—WGSN said techwear is in, duh. Supply and demand—that and the importers have to pay duties. Can I get my duties down? Look for Voyager's post in page ~355–360. If you have particular questions, you can ask me. What do current names mean? XXX-X Current Naming Convention for Garments: 1. First X: (CP) CaPe/cloak? [unverified] (H) Hat (J) Jacket (KA) Kurz/short Arm (LA) Lang/long Arm (P) Pant (NG) Neck Gaiter (S) Shirt/Sweater (SP) Short Pant (SM) SheMagh 2. Second X: number design indicator 3. Third X: (A) Advanced [unverified] usually indicates additional features (B) Beta; alternative version? A/B? [unverified] version reflects pared down variant—these variants also do not suggest release precedence : P24A preceded the P24 (H) Heavyweight [unverified] reflects a heavier fall winter iteration of a summer release (R) Raccagni/Reverse Seam/Revised [unverified]—could conceivably indicate revised but the jacket may have a generation indicator also. (TS) TecSys 4. Fourth X: Fabric/origin designator [seems to be focused on the main fabric rather than the insulation in some cases] (AK) Cashllama; Alti-Knits (BR) Cotton; BRugnoli (C) Cotton; various OEM textile manufacturers [unverified] (CH) Works Industrial Twill Confoederatio Helvetica (Swiss Confederation); Schoeller (DS) Dryskin; Schoeller [sometimes high density nylon jersey; unknown OEM textile manufacture; some pants come with Heavyweight designations; unverified] (E) Epic amphibious cotton; Nextec (FO) Gore-Tex Infinium [Film-Out]; W.L. Gore (GT) Gore-Tex; W.L. Gore; Pro 3L and 2.5L variants; W.L. Gore (GTPL) Gore-Tex with Paclite Technology; W.L. Gore (GTV) Gore-Tex Volt [unverified] 2.5L; W.L. Gore (K) Nemen experimental 3L; Komatsu [unverified] (KM) Alti-Knits Merino [unverified] (KR) Cashmere/KashmiR; unknown textile OEM (L) Leather backed with a Komatsu membrane; unknown leather OEM (LP) Loro Piana Storm System; Loro Piana (MP) MultiPrene; unknown OEM textile manufacturer (PB) Gore-Tex Film-out with ShakeDry experimental 2L; PutzBrunn [unverified, W.L. Gore had some positions there]; W.L. Gore (PS) Polartec PowerStretch, Polartec (PX) Polartec Alpha; Polartec [maybe refers to PerteX face fabric? Unverified] (S) Cotton; EtaProof Stotz (SS)WB-400 Schoeller SoftShell (WS) WindStopper; W.L. Gore Can you tell me about the comparable fabrics? Pant Fabrics (CH) schoeller microtwill is cotton and aramid blend, mild fire-resistance [don’t know if it’s legitimate FR like some combat pants; you’re welcome to test for the culture] some iterations treated with coldblack UV/heat protection (DS) schoeller dryskin is nylon; HD jersey is nylon as well (S) stotz etaproof is long staple cotton; be aware there are different weights between the pants and jackets and also among the different seasons/iterations. Fabric Qualities: Weather Protection: (S)>(CH)>(DS) Breathability: (DS)>(CH>(S Fabric weight is (CH)>(S)>(DS) Colorfastness: (DS)>(CH)>(S). Abrasion resistance: (CH)/(S)>(DS). Stretch: (DS) [4 way]>(CH) [2 way minimal]>(S) [none]. Jacket Fabrics (FO) ePTFE air permeable membrane/face fabric, nylon backer. (GT) Gore Tex Pro: fully nylon construction, 3L microgrid backer, air permeable ePTFE membrane, nylon face fabric. Gore Tex/ Gore Tex Volt: 2.5L fully nylon construction, printed backer, air permeable ePTFE membrane, nylon face fabric. (WS) 2.5L fully nylon construction, air/water permeable ePTFE membrane, printed backer, nylon face fabric. (S) stotz etaproof is long staple cotton. Fabric Qualities Weather protection: (GT)/(FO)>(WS)>(S). Breathability: (S)>(WS)>(FO)>(GT). Colorfastness: (GT)/(WS)/ (FO) >(S). Abrasion resistance: (GT)>(WS)>(S)>(FO) What do all these weird features do? (AUX ZIP) liner integration. (CABLETAPE) cable management feature on the arms of some early softshells (ESCAPEZIP) YKK proprietary zip that allows for quick doffing with a pull at the collar termination of the zipper. (INTEROPS) right back side water resistant zip for interfacing with 3a bags usually terminated at the hem with press buttons (SOUND) cable routing for headphones. (TEC SYS) standard molle attachment webbing for external attachment. (FORCE LOCK) Velcro backed magnetic strip for holding IEMs on collar (JACKETSLING) sling for wearable carrying jacket without holding it, consists of a slider, pull, and elastic. Newer models feature backside carry rather than the interior carry. (SPEEDLOCK) shockcord hem that allows one handed tightening, webbing pull. (GRAVITY POCKET) two way 5mm zipped pockets on the interior forearm arm that feature a in-sleeve press pocket that allow for item deployment with a swift downward motion. How do I wash this stuff? Use technical fabric wash. It's water based and doesn't leave residue that affect the fabric characteristics. Generally: For jackets: single wash cold, double rinse. For (S)/(CH): single wash gentle cycle, no spin. Don’t reapply DWR, proprietary coatings. For (DS): single wash cold, double rinse. Don’t reapply DWR, proprietary coatings. For (GT)/(WS): Everything is DWR'd, this is a coating on the face fabric that allows the water to bead out. With abrasion this comes off, to reactivate wash, reapply, and depending on what DWR, tumble dry or iron. I use Grangers. A word on waterproofing Waterproof is a marketing term. Water resistance is generally the operative language in determining a fabric's resistance to water ingress. Those 10K ratings on weather gear measure the resistance of a small piece of fabric against a certain height of static water. Like, come on, if you're under ~32 feet of water you've got different issues. As such, it's meaningless in most situations. Windstopper and Stotz are shower proof; I think Stotz takes something like ~700mm of water under static pressure before appreciable ingress. While I'm saying that Acronym gear is sufficient for most applications, you have to understand its limitations. Acronym will be no more weather resistant than other outdoor and will likely be worse than purpose designed inclement weather gear. To wit, the zips are sometimes the YKK aquaseal but they're not like a drybag—there will be ingress if you're open ocean yachting.
  9. 37 points
    "It's been a long time, I shouldn't have left youWithout a strong rhyme to step toThink of how many weak shows you slept throughTime's up, I'm sorry I kept you" something different from the norm... Haglöfs V-series anorak ACG woven pants Clarks GTX Wallabee Chup
  10. 34 points
    Been enjoying everyone's updates, sorry for not posting, not too many exciting shots to share. Been busy with various stuff, but also enjoying those crisp early mornings. THis photo is of the pooch in a particular point in Greenwich park, where there's a number of Anglo Saxon burial mounds. In cold weather they often look markedly different from the surrounding ground - the psychic energy of the ancient folk lurking below? It's a great location - from here you can see modern skyscrapers, and the 17th century Queens House, while just further down is the site of the main Roman temple in the area. we had a dry January - until last Friday, which is Burns night, when one reads the poetry of the Scottish poet, and eats haggis with tatties and neeps - mashed potato and swede. Always a glorious time. I paired mine with Laphroaig. The winter for me was a time for de-cluttering, so I've been selling stuff on eBay for the last three months at least. Including in what's gone so far is a 28mm VC Leica lens, Hofner Club 50 guitar, Couesnon alto sax, light fittings, vinyl 45s, my 555 '55, King Crimson and George Harrison CDs (nearly £200 for those alone) and other random items. The premise was to cut down on stuff and get what I have working; which meant , for instance, I got my Heuer Carrera fully serviced, and had my Jazzmaster restored. I think I mentioned earlier, it turned out it's quite a rare guitar, with an ash body, in a blonde finish, which is the earliest custom colour. I have it sitting in the living room now, and obviously i'm churning out some top riffs. It's great, all the pleasure of new stuff with none of the guilt. I also have a lovely reissue case, swapped with Erk for some Big E and LVC stuff. There's the usual TBC quick update. Pockets are going now. It's looking more and more likely that from this fall I'll be starting a new job where, for the first time in 30 years, I won't be wearing denim every day. This therefore means this is my last chance to win a denim contest, hence I shall be using sandpaper, power tools, blowtorches etc to make sure I beat Volvo to the prize.
  11. 33 points
    Here is my comparison of several different jackets of various sizes. In my opinion j36-s is a bit small. Not very comfortable in the shoulders. Therefore if someone wants this jacket, I advise you to focus on the bigger size than you have. Don't pay attention to the phone in my hands: I controlled the camera on a tripod with it. PS So I’ll probably try to trade j36 to a larger size if someone needs.
  12. 32 points
    For those of you who are curious about the new liner jacket. Having owned all the previous Aux Zip liner jackets, IMHO the J74 is the best one yet. The jacket is very comfortable and easy to wear thanks to its lightness and silkiness. Think WS without the bulk but work just as good as one, if not better. The silky look of the jacket also works well with your rigid GT jackets, giving it a more sophisticated look.
  13. 31 points
    Triffer hat Deluxeware sweat Tcb 50s
  14. 31 points
    A better look at my 50's:
  15. 31 points
    For context, I've owned a J1A-S and J1TS-S but not a 2.0 J1A-GT. The GT shell I'm using currently is a J47-GT and I picked up a 2.2 J1A-GT as a possible replacement for it. Some initial thoughts on the 2.2: I love the collar. It looks and feels great up or down. I felt the previous iterations with the 3D collar ridge never sat right on my neck and felt awkward. I like the hood better than the previous generation's ones. Combined with the collars I thought they had too much going on visually. I appreciate this version's simplicity. Unfortunately I have a big head so the hood fits a bit smaller than I'd like so I've removed it and auxzipped my J63A in because I love its hood. The flak pocket is okay but I don't think I'll use it much personally. I feel like zipping the zipper from left to right should open the pocket instead of closing it. With how it is currently the zipper head blocks a bit of the opening on the left whereas if it was all the way on the right it'd be out of the way. I loved the centre pockets of the J1A-S and used them almost exclusively. You had the flak pocket quickly and easily accessible with the top flap, a sort of mezzanine pocket behind that accessed from the side and also another zipped security pocket behind that. I get that the security pocket probably had to go for the liner access to work nicely but can't help but wish there was still a mezzanine pocket behind the flak pocket. Edit: mezzanine pocket still present, thanks for pointing it out @RodG! I like the new gravity pockets. They feel easier to insert and remove items from. I don't use them as intended with the wrist flick so I can't speak on that aspect but just as extra pockets I feel like they've improved. They sit more towards the back of your arms now instead of the side. I still dislike the sleeve pocket. I get that it's a defining feature of the J1 but I've always found it cumbersome to use. I would've preferred the stacked detached sleeve pockets from the J16/J1TS on both sides but that's just me dreaming of my ideal ACR jacket. I'm glad to have the articulated speedlock hem back in my life. Been missing it since I sold my J27. I think it's the best looking integration of speedlock. I prefer jackets without interops because I don't often carry an additional bag, you lose the symmetry of having speedlock tabs on both sides and you sacrifice some backwards capacity if you have 2-directional waist pockets. This isn't so much of an issue for me with the J1A because I feel that asymmetry is intrinsic in its design and it's not lacking in the storage department. Some small tweaks I'd make have to do with fastening the jacket. The centre snap is positioned nicely but I wish it was on webbing like the top snap so it'd be easier to grab at both sides with my index finger and thumb instead of having to get at it through just the right side with my thumb. Also I wish the two main zippers were detached at the bottom on both sides instead of one each for less fiddling around. I like how they're done like that on my J62-PB. When it comes to Acronym jackets I prefer the simpler cuts with all the features I need/want. I go for my personal minimum maximum, if you will. I prefer my J47-GT over the J47A and J47TS I owned. I found their extra pockets surplus to my needs and unnatural to use. I value pocket capacity and accessibility over quantity. It's why the J28 isn't for me while most froth over it. It's why the J62 is fantastic to me despite only having 2 pockets. It's why the J16 is one of, if not my favourite jacket. Pretty much the entire front of it is storage space and all of it feels right to use. I feel like the 2.2 J1A-GT hits a sweet spot for me and overall I like the jacket a lot. It's not perfect but it's very good for me functionally and aesthetically. YMMV.
  16. 31 points
    More denim- not sure how much longer they’ll last. . . Easily one of my favorite pairs I’ve owned.
  17. 31 points
    J72-AK is one of the least sought-after pieces in FW18 but I did not regret copping. Received J72-AK today and It came with a large box which is unusual in my experience (Regular jacket box for scale). The jacket is not packaged in a standard zip bag but a plastic bag with a spec sheet only, no jacket sling. (Ordered from mothersite) Fabric: The jacket is very light but feels sturdy. The fabric is not really anything new, it's soft and with a little stretch capability. The fabric does itch just a little bit in the beginning but I got used to it real quick. The only downside but also inevitable for wool is the tiny peeling here and there. One interesting detail: I noticed is the strap for the jacket sling. There is a tiny hole behind the strap, and this applies to all three straps. I figured that you are able to attach your jacket sling inside or outside. Fitting: I would say TTS but the sleeves are a bit longer but not a big deal. I am wearing a size S and fitting this under other size S shells feels a little tight. So as always, size up for shells if you wanna layer. But I really enjoy the look without a shell anyway. Heres the fit pic with NG9-PS. Thanks for reading.
  18. 30 points
  19. 29 points
    A few more close-ups to show the characteristic crinkles of Warehouse denim...
  20. 29 points
    hi yall! i tore the knee of my cane's roller skating yesterday and was reminded of this forum, so here's an update! i think i've had these for a little over four years, though they've been worn much less (probably 1.5) as they're best in spring and fall. they are the 40601 model with 50/50 sugar cane denim. thanks!
  21. 29 points
    Even the 2018 high priced reissued mp2ts costs 115 euro. i don’t want recall those 3 items pack cost how much. Get fuck out of here, you’re not welcome.
  22. 29 points
    1st cpo shirt. 10 years old!
  23. 29 points
    50's jacket, just about 3 years old
  24. 29 points
    And while I’m here... heres my 2002xx I’ve had for two years. Jacket season is extremely short in New Orleans, so this spends more time in the closet than not. The banner denim is perfect for a type II and in my humble opinion this is one of the best denim jackets on the market.
  25. 28 points
    o hai 20s tux in the wash, so a 50s one will have to do... or orslow-tcb-cheaney