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Hakusan 1950's Champion Gildan Freewheelers Lofgren

As August usually is here. The dead of summer. All goes sort of quiet because people stay indoors mostly when it’s not dark. It’s been mostly routine stuff - office, baby stuff, sunset dog walks etc. no jeans in site for a month now. Cloud makers. Upside down for some reason decent steak from a few days ago. Also, a friend of mine opened the first denim shop in our parts. Very nice store and much more convenient now that I can go and try on stuff in person and buy it, rather than DM brands on IG about how they measure thigh width. I bought this Pherrows Henley.

Texas Tux does sound good, but Canadian Tux has the fun origin story involving Bing Crosby at a Vancouver Hotel and a literal denim tuxedo by Levi's

apparently REBUILT is the teacher of konaka ...

everything getting a proper Shredwin treatment

Yeah I noticed one of the stockists for the Cushman x Rebuilt 1937 Jeans was talking this up - (google translate from Junk House West) https://item.rakuten.co.jp/junkhousewest/003208/

Unworn/unwashed pair in a size 36, in NP01 denim, popped up on mercari

https://jp.mercari.com/item/m50632116776 Deadstock size 28 M41001 for under $100 for anyone in smaller size!!!!

Thanks for the write up Martin.. Judith Chalmers job is safe for the foreseeable

I’m not happy about the tariffs, for any number of reasons—but the yen is more than 15% weaker now, relative to the dollar, than it was when I first started buying most of my clothes from Yahoo + Mercari. I felt like I was getting a great deal, then, and I’m pretty sure I’ll still feel like I’m getting a great deal if I have to start paying 15% more again now. We’ve been spoiled for the last few years. I’m maybe less likely to buy new clothes at full MSRP, but I already didn’t do a ton of that. I mostly just wish the extra tax was going to a decent cause.

Thanks @ATWM good insight. This means it’s without regard for new versus used items I’m assuming? Surely this has been discussed elsewhere—and I should just look through the SE thread— but I’m also worried about retailers within the states either having to raise prices a ton, or just straight up not carry many things. Like, we all know it, but this is just bad for business(es). This is just heinous chaos that will potentially ruin many retailers. /soapbox

Based in Narrm/Melbourne, Australia Prices in USD International shipping $30 per sale Open to trades I can supply additional images at request At last Co – Trousers size 32 $150 waist: 15” inseam: 31” leg opening: 9.5” At last Co – wool flannel 15 1/2 $150 shoulder: 18.5” armpit: 21.5” sleeve: 23” length: 28” At last Co – lot. 147 size 31 $100 waist: 15.5” inseam: 33” leg opening: 9” Denime – 220a size 31 x 30 $120 waist: 16” inseam: 31” leg opening: 8” At last Co – denim painter pants size 30 $100 waist: 15.5” inseam: 31” leg opening: 9” At last Co – lot. 126 size 30 $80 waist: 15.5” inseam: 33” leg opening: 8.25”

Nope, not really. Not legally as far as I can see. I did the math and on the occasions that the same item is found from US retailers, they are about to become much more competitive - assuming their retail stays what it is, which I wouldn’t actually assume. 15% tariff + overseas shipping + proxy fees can add up to pretty close to paying US retail assuming free shipping. I’m sure some retailers may still mark down values but - and this is different for everyone - I’ve personally never felt comfortable asking for that.

Jumping in here as well as I’ve been searching for more info on the De Minimus exception ending here in the states. Are there any workarounds or sneaky methods to avoid this? I’ve been shopping the auctions and things; From Japan, others, etc… it’s been so hassle free (knock on wood), and now I’m worried this may seal its fate as ruined for most of us here in the US. The sneaky trick used to be requesting the seller mark your item(s) as a “gift.” Oh, simpler times.

Slash Overalls is a one man brand operating in Shizuoka Japan, and has been operating since around ~2021. Originally he started offering custom jeans, allowing his customers to pick various details: denim, pocket and yoke shape, pocket bag fabrics, cut, etc. Most of these jeans were loosely based on different historical eras that we all know and love. However they were not always marketed as strict reproductions, but more creative interpretations. Many of these had (quite distinct) arcs, which he has since moved away from. Below are a few examples of his earlier offerings ('37, '40s, late 1890s Miner Jeans). (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram) He also ran a series of "grunge models", which had more irregular sewing features. These might seem haphazard, but as mentioned in his blog post the irregular sewing details are intentional and quite difficult to reproduce. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) In his pursuit of creating a more accurate repro, he graduated to working directly with denim mills on developing his own fabrics to use. With this change in production mentality, he stopped offering custom made jeans and began releasing products in batches. I can't quite figure out the exact rhyme or reason to how each different batch aligns which the denim used, but they are all slight variations. One of the first offerings was the LF44, then NP01, SO02 (aka NP02,), and SL01 (developed in collaboration with Okamoto Textile Co.). LF44: LF44, aged: NP01: NP01, 1 year of wear: SO02: SL01: (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog and Instagram) The last two are more recent releases (late '24), and thus I don't think I've seen any faded photos yet. As seen above, he also makes a few variations of denim jackets, mostly inspired by WWII models and late 40's type I's. One interesting aspect of the way he sizes and grades the patterns for his denim jackets is that he does not adjust the body or sleeve length for larger sizes. He doesn't list the body or sleeve length on product pages, and says that one should be able to size his jackets based on chest and shoulder measurements. I've seen an Instagram post where he states this is how Levi's used to pattern and size their jackets, but I personally am not sure if this is 100% accurate. I haven't gotten one of the jackets yet, but I'm hoping to add one in the future. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram and IG user oto_ten) Alongside his mainline jeans, his most recent undertaking is the XX Grade project. Focusing on reproducing jeans in the most accurate way possible, down to the materials used. These have only just started to be released, but my understanding is that he has been working with different machinists to recreate the machinery used in creating vintage two prong buttons. This line carries a steep price tag, but I haven't been able to track down a pair myself...yet. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog) He also has been working on a line of "vintage aged" denim, assuming this is a similar oxidation process that we've seen from some other makers previously. This line has yet to be released, but I'm interested in the results once he is ready to release the finished product. (*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

I never learned the proper way to sew buttonholes by hand but it's easy enough to loop stitch enough upholstery (heavy duty) thread around the hole to secure it for the foreseeable future.

If you're not skilled with a needle and thread.. i'd get the top buttons done at the tailor, these take most of the strain, you don't want them to fray any further and become too loose.. then i'd just repair the button holes on the fly myself, it's a simple enough job.

I live near the heart of the auto industry and any time I run into the white collar workers who are in it it doesn’t take long for them to mention how this is…not helping. I can’t imagine how it might be for small businesses who thrive on imports. That said I do think there is merit to the problem of the fast fashion sites from Japan’s neighbor abusing the de minimis and flooding the world with plastic trash. I’m not sure how it would go with used items.

Feel free to object away! I always prefer the expression Texas tux as l associate double denim with the cowboy culture mostly. I always associate anything Canadian clothing wise with something needing to be a little warmer to keep out the cold but that's just me 😁

Well, for starters - I would surely freeze to death if I’ll wear t shirts and shorts in 12 degrees C. 😅 secondly - 29 degrees with a fan is rough. Cannot imagine dealing with that without AC, especially in your parts where surely houses are built to retain heat rather than to expel it.

Slightly different story for me.. i still wear jeans everyday for work, difference is, in a pre-brexit, pre-cost of living crisis, pre-full cost proxy, pre-single income family world.. i would buy fancy denim just to wear in my workshop.. i was tearing through a pair of jeans every 12mths but they weren't an expensive commodity for me in those days.. Nowadays, for work, i just buy a pair of vintage Carhartt Carpenter pants for £35.. they last around the same amount of time as a £250 pair of fancy JP repros.. i also cycle commute so i don't wear jeans to and from work, my days off are spent either playing tennis or MTB'ing around the Peak District, again, not in jeans.. i 'm not wearing jeans as often through the hotter months so until our economy sorts it's shit out or until the colder months return i'll only be wearing fancy jp-repros for 9mths of the year.

Added a few more pairs as I clean out what I have stored away

Freewheelers 1922 506 / Andersen Andersen boatsman / Codina x Rite Stuff belt / Sugar Cane 1946 / Nicks

I can concur. I’m on my 3rd set of duke denim. Mine fit way more closer to the look book pic of the guy wearing the white 0105. This pic is the first line of duke denim they released. But I am following the stereotype skater dude vibe with hoodie 😂

We are in Zell. Strasbourg is an option we considered. We had the other famous local cake already

Doesn't make it any better for me 😅

l-j11 large great shape for its age, some signs of wear. Cool trades are welcome – LP stuff, Stotz stuff, GTB stuff, more formal pieces, or items of similar rarity/value. I am an L/XL in Tops and pants, depending on cut. I’m not ready to let it go unless it’s a truly top-tier offer. located in Germany for the sake of BIN price 3k€

Been meaning to get this thread started for a little while, was just waiting for my second pair to arrive. The first pair (which was previously posted in the Unknown JP brands thead), was produced in the later half of '23 using the LF44 denim. This second pair (which I just received over the weekend) are made using the SO02 denim and are similarly based on a '47. The one thing that I find very interesting and hard to describe with this jeans is the "three-dimensionality" that you can feel in all the folds where different layers of fabric intersect. He mentions it often on his blog and Instagram, but there's something about it in person that is very unique. And here's some comparison shots, I haven't washed the SO02 yet and I've been wearing the LF44 a bit.

I personally wouldn't pay retail for any ACR alpha direct piece since there are so many other good alternatives (Senchi, Timmermade, Gnuhr, etc) that'll serve the same purpose for far less. Can't fathom paying 891 euros for a button up AD shirt (LA1-AD).

The run of cinch back jeans he made for Silver & Gold are still available in a few sizes: https://store.silver-and-gold.com/?pid=155995484 https://www.instagram.com/p/CnLmeU7v09x/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==