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Ted DeGrazia with Diego Rivera in 1942.

1947, WW2, 1961 RB

S406XXX M-46 My M-WW2 jacket is currently out for repair, I’ll get some photos of it up once it’s back

Spent the weekend in Lake Arrowhead and watched the sun set at one of the fire lookout towers with the Mrs. Can’t get the orientation right on the last photo no matter what I try. Fun boating and general laziness was had

Sunday happenings + observances: Scritch time Next round of starts, with & without Squirrel Guard Little herb garden: no need for a squirrel guard here: the gnome’s got it covered Morning coffee appreciating the sunflowers

I’ve ID’d peoples jeans in the wild too many times to count, even going out of my way to say something and the reaction is only either “no one’s ever noticed! thank you!” or a dead stare back, lifeless, monkey banging cymbals I’ve had some real good ones I was very proud of, immediately identifying denim by the fabric or construction alone - only to have a similar response to yours - I don’t know a thing about watches, but I’ve heard it’s the same for watch nerds. You either get a nice conversation out of it, or a dead stare

The current prices of Slash Overalls. From his site: S01XX WWII (LF 44 12.5oz) and 1947 (SO02 (NP02) 12oz): JPY 44,000, 46,200 and JPY 48,400 (might depend on size or customer specifications) S06XX 1946 (LF 44 12.5oz): JPY 61,600 S06XXe 1946 (LF 44 12.5oz): JPY 66,000 S06XX 1946 (SO02 (NP02) 12oz): JPY 67,100 S06XX WWII (NP01 12oz): JPY 63,800 S06XXe WWII (NP01 12oz): JPY 66,000 I couldn't find the prices for today's sale event at Barnstormers Gotemba. For Junky Classics Yokohama next Sunday July 20th the following products and prices are stated: "regular line" S002: Jeans- JPY 44,000 to 50,600 (depending on size) Jacket: JPY 64,900 to 69,300 (depending on size) (Edited after reading again). He also has two fabrics recently developed, LF44B and SL01, that he refers to as XX Grade. These are limited in number. LF44B jeans. size 34 and 36: JPY 77,000 jacket: 42 and 49: JPY 99,000 Apparently the fabric LF44B will be shown at the Junky Classics offering for the first time. And then the SL01 fabric: Rough war period denim with doshaburi vertical fading characteristics As discussed before the special development by Okamoto Texitile. SL01 VINTAGE 2PRONG: jeans (at the moment only jeans): JPY 143,000 The high price is apparently a.o. due to the 2 prong button, which was very difficult to produce. Like at Barnstormers purchases at Junky Classics are limited to one jacket and one pair of pants per person.

wearing the new speed engineer sleeveless coat in TTS 44 its quite large but i feel this is the intended fit and i like it this way

probably the widest chinos one can find while avoiding Baggy taiga Takahashi lot 202, very nice

Vintage (ish) Hakusan Megane T-Jerry's .. .. i think these were made for a period up to 2014? .. the version i wanted have this shaped hinge rivet ..the rivet was changed to (or from) a horizontal shaped rivet at some point after release.. There are far fewer examples with this^ shape so i'm inclined to think this was the first edition.. the person who i bought them from certainly thinks so and he has lots of At Last / Tenderloin goodies.. that said, there is conflicting infos online. Hakusan are one of the few who actually make their glasses by hand from start to finish at their shop in Shinjuku, they've been doing so since 1883. My pair had recently been returned to Hakusan for a polish and service. The difference between these and factory produced acetate frames is just night and day tiny Hakusan logo cast into the resin nose cushions, see what i mean about the level of craftsmanship ..beautifully made things @CSL .. sizes are below A- 142mm B- 120mm C- 12.5mm Frame Height- 46mm Lens Height- 39mm Lens Width- 49mm D- 140mm At Temples- 157mm E- 140mm

Sassafras / Fruit of the Loom / Freewheelers / Warehouse

^ I think when I first took notice of them, I was drawn in particular to how strongly their denim puckered and twisted: it seemed super lively, which I love That said, it was never enough to make up for how hard it was to purchase. That always feels like a turn off

Not often do I see people wearing selvedge denim in the wild - leaving the movies the other day, two people came out, one in a pair of Momotaro's and one in a pair of Iron Heart's. The guy in the Momo's held the door for me and my girlfriend and I hit him with a "nice jeans" and in return he hit me with a confused look. l think I assume everyone wearing nice jeans is into this hobby. He didn't even compliment me on my jeans, wtf!? 🙃

Tender Co. / Warehouse / Duke / Cane’s / The Flat Head

I'm sure rarity probably does factor in to the mystique. But I would say the patterns are really good/ very vintage-y. Of the five 506XX's I own the Slash Overalls is probably my favourite cut. And as with indigoeagle I get the impression from his blog/insta that he is an obsessive with the patterns (among other things) and has his own philosophy as to what makes a good repro. Slash also seems to develop some distinctive wrinkle and puckering fades (like on waistband, collar) that are a bit extra. You can see here https://www.instagram.com/p/Ck3NyL3PUod/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== or https://www.instagram.com/p/DKEz7qUTl0c/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA== I really like it. Of course you can get some of that with other brands (my Tender denim jacket is developing some very tasty waistband crinkles) but it is part of the appeal.

I think, this a bit the standard phenomenon as with coffee, red wine, photography equipment, etc.. Like for some people say a Nudie Jeans jacket would be the same as a jacket from Slash Overalls. Which would be totally fine. Depends what people are interested in. Somehow a number of people interested in denim- especially here on the forum, where they tend to arrive- evolve in interest from say Nudie/Edwin to Oni and others to more repro makers like WH, TCB, FWs, etc.. And then of special interest like Roy are the one man/small team jeans artisans like Ooe YFT, CSF, BOT and Slash Overalls- as has been described in various posts here before. But back to your question- when I saw pictures of faded SO denim I got very interested. I started reading his blog then. And he has a very focused and uncompromising philosophy to be as close to the original vintage items as possible with regarding to fabric and also cut. His denim is a bit lighter with 12 and 12.5oz and now the newer one 13.5oz. And he had mentioned the ratios of the rises. So that and the overall aesthetic impression that I get from his products got me interested. But for sure, I have limits to what price I would pay. And also currently it seems nearly impossibe to buy one of his items, if you're not in Japan.

I do something similar with the tcb seaman trousers as the belt loops are so wide. I roll the waist band over the belt.

Here you go

Roy Rogers tutorial on cowboy hat shaping while wearing a pair of jeans.

Thanks. If I like it I hope it shrinks, I just read they run big.

@Le Clown Bleu agreeing with CSL, that's a good fit imo

Looking like a very nice repro, but I don‘t know about the sizings on repros.

Yes. Looks good like that.^^^

Like a real denim head

Here’s a good reflection of what folks wear in SA.. This was favela Rocinha Brazil (so non of these folks are tourists) mid-day in the height of the summer. The guy who we was with (Ramirez) said “don’t point your camera at teenagers carrying automatic weapons” We did Sao Paulo, Ipanema, Copacabana, Botofogo, Salvador and Buzios.. the clothing didn’t change much (apart from Salvador with its Afro-brazilian influence) even though it’s hot af! It also pissed it down with hot rain on the regular so cheap, lightweight and fast drying with flip flops for the locals.

All this beach talk clearly not coming from Northern California / Pacific Northwest folks…growing up around here, beach-wear always meant jeans and a wool sweater, even way before I cared about what jeans I was wearing Just in the past 10ish years it’s started getting a lot more common for us to see sunshine & temps in the 70s, but it always used to be you had to go a few miles inland to get away from the fog & the winds

With age comes wisdom Charlie.. You've just got to draw a line at some point and for me that point is around 22° .. our weather is glorious and i want to appreciate it as much as possible (our summers used to be awful, we were lucky to get a week without rain) i will appreciate the sunshine more if im wearing a pair of shorts and a t-shirt.. i will appreciate it a lot less if i'm uncomfortably hot, sweating my ass off in a pair of jeans.. I've done it before.. i used to hike the Peaks wearing jeans, vintage repro work boots and mil-repro jacket.. looks cool (from a certain perspective) but in reality i was wearing entirely the wrong clothing for my environment.. i'd be dry and comfortable if i was wearing gore.. so why are you not wearing gore?.. oh yeah, because you're a fkin idiot who cares more about his jeans than his own comfort.. would you wear jeans on the beach while all other folks are in shorts and bikinis? .. well no because it's 30°+ .. well, it's 30°+ everywhere at the moment I appreciate that wearing denim 24/7 gets you nice fades but if the flip is making yourself uncomfortably hot while others are enjoying the sunshine, there is nothing cool about that..

another update for you @Double 0 Soul @Dr_Heech

We headed into the a/c of the House of Fu eaterie earlier... too hot outside even at 6pm Lad in Pirates (SA) football top / Nike SB; Arl fella in Sun Surf, Nuu, Buckweat, McCoys daisy mae

Keep going @PrettyBoyTony. Once the 50s get past that initial slow fading and start to pop, they look like totally different jeans. Mine are just getting there after almost a year. I've also started working in the coffee industry again, and occasionally get behind the bar, which is giving it some solid wear and tear and dirt. I also just picked up a new pair of both 50s and 60s with the indigo tab a few weeks ago, too. Excited to start the process over again once my current pairs get a bit more trashed.

USN denim and chambray!

Sounds good, Double O. I'd like to see the pics and dimensions. In the meantime I've been poking around and found some other brands that do that style nicely. Akira, and Native Son.

Wash no 4 (by hand) and drying in the heat & brilliant Sun. Still wet here.

A big part of why TFH was so popular ~15 years ago is that back then, there was a lot less variety on the specialty denim market. TFH's denim was closely associated with dramatic fading, and pretty unique in how dark it was - Eternal was the only brand with a similar vibe. That was before the rise of retailers like Okayama Denim or Denimio that catered to the tastes of the Reddit/Instagram crowd and subsequent rise in over-engineered denim with highly exaggerated texture and color, and before the creation of most southeast Asian brands catering to a similar very heavy and abrasive sort of fabric. TFH had a reputation for being the denim that led to the Sickest Fades. Flat Head's denim has never stopped being great, but over time it came to occupy a sort of middle space in between the traditional/heritage style denim represented by Warehouse, Full Count, Denime, TCB, (most) Sugar Cane, etc. and heavily engineered denim of PBJ, Samurai, Oni, Iron Heart, and so on. The people wanting extreme fades gravitated toward more extreme denim, and those seeking more traditional jeans were less interested in brands like TFH as well. Finally, changing tastes in the community in terms of styling meant that TFH's arcuates/branding/etc. that had once looked cool to the streetwear crowd, were again either too much for traditionalists, or not enough for extreme fans. I think TFH could have stayed popular if they had followed the lead of other third and fourth-wave Japanese brands in catering to the more extreme tastes of international fans, but I have a pretty low opinion of 29 oz hyper-slub rainbow weft denim so I don't think this would have been worth it. I admire TFH for sticking to their guns and taking a generally more reserved approach to their fabric development than most brands. And in my opinion, the mid-late 2000s fabrics represented the height of pushing the boundaries of selvedge denim - I don't think modern gimmicky fabrics have surpassed TFH's 14.5 oz, Samurai's 15 oz Otokogi or 17 oz denim, PBJ's XX-011 or XX-005 denim, and so on. Along the way they made some missteps like with the ultrasuede stuff, but I think the impact of this on their popularity was inconsequential; this hardly made it outside of Japan, Pronto is the only retailer I can recall which carried jeans featuring those arcs, and the flashier back pocket designs generally played better in the Thai market back then anyway. I do think that dialing back the rockabilly look and going for a broader vintage basics aesthetic the last few years has worked well for them. Fits are also worth mentioning, TFH had trouble keeping on top of the whims of the international denim community. They had a relaxed tapered fit, the 3012, all the way back in 2013 but the timing was off; it was a few years too early, and seemed to flop. It had already been canceled by the time these fits were all the rage in the latter end of the 2010s. This has largely been resolved though and they have a pretty good lineup of fits at this point. I'm daily driving my 3003xx jeans and 6002W denim jacket, both old stock I got off Japanese auction sites. The 3003xx has to be my favorite fit I've ever worn, the leg is about the same as my 3005s but these jeans have a noticeably longer rise which leads to a more comfortable, better looking pair. And of course the painted arcs and red tab are very cool and quite rare at this point. I'll probably share some updates on those around the end of summer.

Here's one for the collectors.. ..bonus Lenny photo ..it's a 35yr old deadstock Silverstone 506xx repro from 1990 ..according to 'denim legend'.. Silverstone (and subsequently Ground-Alls) went out of business because of the exacting standards of the perfectionist owners.. i don't know if this is true or denim-lore but they did go bankrupt producing an incredible repro during the golden age / largest denim-boom on the planet ..the very first cowhorn patch which has been oiled annually so it doesn't crack shirt weight denim as we would expect ..you'll not see another one of these this week, month, year.. probably ever