Selvedge Denim

[poly800rock]

Quote:

I've been eyeing a pair of Rag & Bone, selvage, 11 oz. The wash has a greenish hue, much like the 5EPs I've seen posted. They're nice jeans. They're also expensive. Do other's feel they are too high? Would any one rate them as close to equal to 5EPs, or more on par with PDCs, Earnest Sewns, etc?

--- Original message by 35mm on Apr 25, 2005 08:01 AM

Yeah. I saw them and I liked them alot but the place was charging $275! for them! Insane, this jeans game is crazy. I mean, $275 for like old levis fine, but rag and bone?

[35mm]

handsblue.com is now up.

[ringring]

Just a few selvedge links, by no means comprehensive, (some brands may have done selvedge jeans in prior collections, but may not be currently running any)....

Could be worth sorting out by country, price range, natural dyes etc...

45rpm : http://www.45rpm.jp/denim/detail.jsp?id=007?=en

5 :

5EP : http://denimafia.com/

Abercrombie : http://www.abercrombie.com

Ace : http://www.rockersengland.co.uk/jeans.htm

AG :

A.P.C. : http://www.apc.fr/eu/en/index.php

Bathing Ape : http://www.bape.com

Big John : http://www.bigjohn.co.jp/

Blueblood : http://www.bluebloodbrand.com/

Blue Corn : http://www.artvillage.co.jp/bluecorn

Blue Way : http://www.blueway.co.jp

Boss : http://www.hugoboss.com

Burgus Plus: http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinhoya/

Buzz Rickson : http://www.buzzrickson.com/ also http://www.toyo-enterprise.co.jp/

Canton :

Club Monaco : http://www.clubmonaco.com

DDC Labs : http://www.ddclab.com

Denime : http://www.e-denime.com

Dickies : http://www.dickies.com

D.I.E. Denim is Everything :

Diesel : http://www.diesel.com/

Dior : http://fashion.dior.com/homme/index.html

Dope+Drakkar : http://www.dopexdrakkar.com

Dry Bones : http://www.dry-bones.com/

Dubble Works : http://www.dubbleworks.com/

Earnest Sewn : http://www.earnestsewn.com/

Edwin : http://www.edwin.co.jp

Eight-G : http://www.eight-g-sakai.shop-site.jp

Es : http://www.esfootwear.com/apparel/pants/

Eternal : http://www.maeno.co.jp

Evisu : http://www.evisu.com/

Farmers : http://www.rakuten.co.jp/m-basic/537125/

Firetrap : http://www.firetrap.net

Fiperops : http://www.tcsite.net/fiberops/

F.O.B. :

Full Nelson : http://www.orchid.co.jp

Full Count : http://www.fullcount.co.jp/eng/index.html

Gap : http://www.gap.com

Gardener :

Gas : http://www.gasjeans.com/

Gleem : <a href="http://www.delbombers.net" target="_blank">http://www.d

[skecr8r]

What should I ever do without you RingRing :-)

Denim Fanatismé.

The Arc - Hitting the selvage from August 1st 2005.

frogeyes: "dontcare, who cares."

[urban sprawl]

ringring,

you seem to have lots of time?!

amazing...thx.

[ringring]

time? LOL, not really, just a cut and paste job after switching browsers. It's been a while since I've looked at some of those site, probably a few of the links might be outdated now.

I hadn't looked at Iron Heart in a while - they're now also doing 21oz jeans. They've made some for women too that look pretty cool. *might appeal to the fellas on here that wear ladyjeans

http://www.works-corp.com/iron/twenty_one/index.html

[wild_whiskey]

sick jeans Ringring. I cant imagine how the hell one can even wear em. Unwashed 14oz is hard enough!

[skecr8r]

Hehe rr, I posted that link in some other topic, fun coincidence. :-)

I have a pair of 20oz mens by WareHouse and they are incredible nice to wear, its an entirely different feeling.

Denim Fanatismé.

The Arc - Hitting the selvage from August 1st 2005.

frogeyes: "dontcare, who cares."

[darknworn]

wow, the iron heart straight cut is nice. how does it feel to wear such heavy jeans? is the fabric significantly thicker or just denser?

the riders jacket looks sweet too: http://www.works-corp.com/iron/tough/index.html

Edited by darknworn on May 13, 2005 at 10:08 AM

[urban sprawl]

ringring,

never heard of this brand...;p

the straighlegs look sick. but better the women's one....ooowwwwwweeeeeeee!;p

have you seen them in real?

[pointballer]

i purchased a pair of jeans and it was selvedge i think because it has that seam thats inside the leg, but for some reason when i wear it the seam is not on the side of the leg where most of the selvedge jeans i have goes, but it tends to go towards the middle of front of my sneakers. Sorry if this is confusing because of my terms but i hope you guys can understand what i'm saying.

[wild_whiskey]

pointballer, have you washed them? if so, it sounds like the seams twisted, which is normal and desirable by many people. If not, it could just be the effect of a tapered leg. Quite common, I have some 501XXs where the seams tend to sit near the center of my sneakers, and they've never been washed.

[pointballer]

i have washed them today for the first time but its still in the middle which is honestly fine, thanks for the great info wild_wiskey

[Paul T]

ONe other thing I heard a couple of weeks ago regarding Evisu, is that there is a huge problem with counterfeiting - one guy I was talking to, who used to work for Levi's pretty high up in the UK, and still freelances for them, tells me that the brand is basically in real trouble, because they've allowed counterfeiting to get out of hand; they've also cheapened the brand anyway, and confused retailers.

BTW, I don't think Evisu own their own looms. THat story about them buying old Levi's looms was always bull (Leiv's never owned their own looms, either). I think most of Evisu's fabric comes from a company called Kurabo, who do of course use shuttle looms, but I'm not even certain the looms are American.

[witts]

all u hav 2 do is look on ebay thers so many fakes on ther u can pick up for around £40- fing is theyhav no selvadge,no quality, no serial number inside, an theyll probly fall apart after a week or two....im no denim expert but i can c the EV-EU range is a load of shit!!! ther is no quality in the denim... compare some of those to the Evisu no.2 0002 an thers no comparison... i jus bought myself some edinwin ed-47s wiv rainbow selvadge... im very imprssed... can anyone recommend anything in the similar style ( baggy on the arse fit that u can turn up in a dark indigo colour wiv a selvadge) ive already got some hemp evisu theyre a very comfy an nice lookin jean, i got the evisu no.2's , some of the stone wash diacock evisu ( the denim is nice an soft but not as good as the no. 2s) an the edwin 3d-47s, i also got some diesel jus to tidy me ovr....

ice cold vintage

[witts]

REAL QUALITY @ REAL PRICES http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=52794&item=6768665253&rd=1 WAT FOOL IS GONA BUY THEM??

ice cold vintage

[ringring]

Quote:

ringring,

never heard of this brand...;p

the straighlegs look sick. but better the women's one....ooowwwwwweeeeeeee!;p

have you seen them in real?

--- Original message by urban sprawl on May 14, 2005 08:27 AM

I agree the women's style looks great. It's rare to find dry denim jeans cut to fit a woman's arse that well, let alone finding them in 21oz!

I've not seen the Iron's in the flesh yet. However, they look like they're in the same fabric as the Studio D'Artisan's. The 21oz's are less intimidating in the flesh than the 'numbers' would suggest.

Whiskey & Darknworn - The fabric is thicker, as you would expect. Very, very stiff when 'dry'. I'm told wearing the 21's are like 'wearing leather trousers', but as I'm not familiar with wearing lederhosen, I can't verify that comparison

They're also not that expensive. Under US$180. *wonders if there will be an APC-like stampede for superheavyweight denim.

Edited by ringring on May 15, 2005 at 02:40 PM

[witts]

wats the link to thse

[Quote:

ringring,

never heard of this brand...;p

the straighlegs look sick. but better the women's one....ooowwwwwweeeeeeee!;p

have you seen them in real?

--- Original message by urban sprawl on May 14, 2005 08:27 AM]

ice cold vintage

[ringring]

http://www.works-corp.com/iron/twenty_one/index.html

More selvedge links on the previous page of this thread.

[witts]

so can ne know it all pls tell m e what "oz" my evisu no.2s r ???

ice cold vintage

[velvetant]

please, im very lazy,but, what is it that defines 'selvedge'?

[Geowu]

"Selvage and selvedge mean exactly the same thing - different companies spell it differently and there apparently is no "right" way to spell it. It comes from the phrase "self-edge" which refers to the edge being finished by the loom instead of sewn together after weaving. Selvage is the term commonly used to refer to denim that has been produced on a shuttle loom. Since the amount of fabric produced from a shuttle loom is significantly narrower than a projectile (wide) loom, the cotton consumption is higher and the time required is greater. In selvage jeans, you will see the actual edge of the fabric where the weaving stops and is finished by the loom, as opposed to denim woven on a projectile loom, where the fabric has been cut off at the ends. The "redline" selvage is Levi's signature and was used in all their jeans up to 1982, before Cone Mills sold most of their shuttle looms."

[ChadR]

Quote:

http://www.works-corp.com/iron/twenty_one/index.html

More selvedge links on the previous page of this thread.

--- Original message by ringring on May 15, 2005 02:35 PM

I am really loving these jackets:

Do you have any idea where we can pick Iron Hearts up state side?

[ringring]

Me too. That jacket looks great.

[super]

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/d-stock/540681/620212/

omg drool

[ringring]

Quote:

please, im very lazy,but, what is it that defines 'selvedge'?

--- Original message by velvetant on May 15, 2005 04:22 PM

A pic of the selvedge of a modern wide with loom on the left compared to the selvedge of a narrow width shuttle loom on the right. (top pic is frontside of the fabric, bottom pic is backside)

Comparison pic of two widths of denim.

Pics taken from http://www.d4.dion.ne.jp/~jeans/ - which also shows LOTS of photos of much of the jeans making process.

Have a browse around the site. eg:

http://www.jean-1ky.com/oder/akamimi.html

http://www.d4.dion.ne.jp/~jeans/model/tim2.html

http://www.d4.dion.ne.jp/~jeans/model/model.html

Super - those Samurai jeans are super! Cool denim.

[35mm]

Quote:

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/d-stock/540681/620212/

omg drool

--- Original message by super on May 19, 2005 11:57 PM

Is that a broken twill?

[trinket]

No, i think it's SO slubby that it looks almost broken twill.

_trinket

[velvetant]

so, selvedge is attractive because of its durability and/or its fit?

is new standards -apc selvedge

i have some dior homme s/s-are they selvedge?

[wild_whiskey]

dude, why don't you just look at them and find out?