Selvedge Denim

[ringring]

Evisu also do a style very similar to those Levi's repros - the 1448 (also made in Italy?).

They also remind me of the '1900s Duck Diggers' by Warehouse, Japan.

[Lazylinepainter]

So much good stuff from Japan. Anyone seen these anywhere other than the Land of the Rising Sun?

http://translate.google.com/translate?sourceid=navclient-menuext&hl=en&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Erakuten%2Eco%2Ejp%2Fhinoya%2F141935%2F141939%2F

I love the diagonal seams, just like my True Religion Globals & Type 1 907s

[yen_kid0]

ohhhh man, check out those jeans!! Like lazy asked...does ANYONE know how to get a hold of any of those without going to Japan? ie. internet, im in melbourne and there is -25% chance of getting anything close to that here hehe

Try it, you'll like it!

[ringring]

Yen - Try www.celga.com. I've not used it myself, but one of the forum members, Peteyross, has mentioned it a few times. They buy the Japanese stuff for you and take a small commission.

[skecr8r]

Celga is a really good way of buying from both Yahoo®Auctions and Rakuten, they managed to get me a pair of DenimE jeans for aprox 45$ (This included shipping to Denmark and their fee. )

First post, welcome me

EDIT:

Thought I list a bunch of Rakuten shops I have found interesting:

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/threelove/index.html

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/super-rag/index.html

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/rogues/213509/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119788/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/d-stock/540682/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/choice/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/zzz/562735/

www.rinkya.com is another way of buying from YahooAuctions, slightly more expensive than Celga, but more proffesional - besides, they allow you to search the auctions in different ways.

And finally a link for those who like LVC:

http://www.joenet.co.jp/casual/levi/vintage/

Pretty much all LVC I have ever seen.

Hope y'all like.

-Spoon.

ready to decieve, recieve, overpower / loving someone is to believe, to relieve, slow shower/she is bathing/ love her needs her like fur/

Edited by skecr8r on Apr 11, 2005 at 03:58 AM

[ringring]

they managed to get me a pair of DenimE jeans for aprox 45$ (This included shipping to Denmark and their fee. )

$45!!! - I should get you to do my shopping for me!

Welcome skecr8r.

[35mm]

Had a look at the Nudie's RR Veggie Indigo. Very nice but very expensive. I imagine the price is due to the natural indigo and hand dipping?

One thing that puzzled me about the jeans- all the selvage I've seen have the single stitching on the edge, often times red. These Nudie's appeared to be selvage but there was no stitching, just an ecru edge. Is this just another way of having a selvage finish, or is it a selvage look-a-like? Does this make sense?

[ringring]

The coloured line is just a coloured warp thread. You can make it any colour you want or remove it entirely. A selvedge that is only ecru is just like a redline selvedge with the red yarn removed.

[35mm]

Quote:

The coloured line is just a coloured warp thread. You can make it any colour you want or remove it entirely. A selvedge that is only ecru is just like a redline selvedge with the red yarn removed.

--- Original message by ringring on Apr 11, 2005 06:33 AM

So, historically, was the reason for having a colored warp thread so the denim mill could distinguish denim made for Levi, Wrangler and Lee? I think I remember someone mentioning this on a different thread...

[ringring]

Yep.

[hahnstch]

i'd like to include these links as well. i found them very tempting to buy

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119698/230711/

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/hinoya/119698/257997/

[johnmc]

In the past Levi's always had a red line in their selvage which quickly faded with washing, Wrangler had a blue line and Lee had plain selvage.

[Kairo]

Hahn stitcho -

Those BS United jeans are sick sick sick! They had some here in NYC at Stackhouse and I passed 'em up because the guy said they fit real baggy and high waisted. But the denim was beautiful, real coarse and thick, super raw, not refined a single bit. That selvage arcuate on the back is a nice touch. One of the of the other pairs, the 60,000 + yen ones with multi color warp, I think they had at Beams in Osaka under glass.

Moderation in all things. Hey John, it's only Fashion!

[docdoom]

ive got some japanese nepenthes by hoggs jeans for sale if anyone wants, im in UK and they are 33x34 i'd say DS, selvedge, with a reddish tint and a low price. im me

[TaylorMADE]

WOW that BS United denim is beautiful... anyone know where I can pick a pair up in the bay area, or online??

AIM: tdubb96

Email: [email protected]

[Kairo]

I went back to Stackhouse today to try them on. Details are great, denim is insane - Must be over 15-16oz, very irregular warp, fuzzy/pilly unfinished denim, DAMN! But . . . Fit is for shit. They are very high waisted and pretty baggy. You end up looking like an indigo fireman (especially once you turn up the cuffs). I like my jeans fairly slim, low, and straight - Levi's Premium Hesher is my favorite pair - so I was screwed. Bummer too because those BS United suckas would have been quite an addition to the harem. If anyone likes that more loose and sloppy fit, go get them bad boys.

Moderation in all things. Hey John, it's only Fashion!

[TaylorMADE]

^^ Did you get the price on them? and does Stackhouse ship? thanks

AIM: tdubb96

Email: [email protected]

[hahnstch]

if i'm not mistaken is it $280 at stackhouse? not sure whether they ship though, give'em a call

[hahnstch]

btw, does anyone know how howies OSD jeans sizing fares compared to other brands? do they run small or big? i am thinking of shipping one from their online store....

[ringring]

OSD fit pretty much true to size on the waist and shrink a few inches on the leg. The fit is quite snug round the waist and hips, and loose on the straight leg. I don't know how the 'New OSDs' compare, but I imagine that the fit will be slightly different.

[hahnstch]

i remember someone posting somewhere here (was it peteyross?) saying that his OSD size 30 fits more like a 32 or something....

[urban sprawl]

yo kairo, that's the fit! you can pull it...!;p

[hahnstch]

i tried them on today at stackhouse, denim is so rough it feels rather uncomfortable. details are crazy, of course as the pics from the rakuten link suggests. and yea, i agree with kairo that fit is a bit shit, high waisted, roomy on crotch but the leg openings arent that wide either. the fact that they are so rigid makes the shape rather unflattering, it'll be hard to put up the look

[JNorth]

Hello!

I have been a lurker for weeks. I thought I knew about selvage denim/designer jeans. But clearly, I had no idea.

Following the advice of this board, I have been wearing my LVC 501 1947 repros for days now, and plan on doing so, as humidity permits.

My question is :Why does selvage denim cost so much? I mean raw, unprocessed, untreated, rigid selvage denim, like LVC deadstock repros, Nudie, Howies, etc.

[Kairo]

JNorth,

I would say wear them in the humidity. It helps the indigo and the sizing break down quicker and brings up the true blue shades from the denim. I put my raw babies on the towel rack while I shower in the morning so they get a bit humidified before I wear them that day.

The reason selvage denim costs so much, as has been stated before here:

1) Selvage (narrow width) looms are rarer, slower, and more costly in general to operate than conventional wide looms.

2) Ring spun yarns (the traditional real method of yarn spinning) which have good character and often uneven slubs - are more expensive than Open End yarns. Also, really high end denims have Ring spun yarns in warp and weft, hence "ring-ring".

3) Indigo dyeing - Cheaper mass produced fabrics will have less "dips": less passes in the indigo bath. Also sometimes they are cut with cheaper sulfur dyes on top or bottom of the indigo to darken them. Really expensive denim sometimes is dyed with the real natural (plant) indigo which is vastly more expensive than the regular synthetic indigo dyestuffs and methods.

4) Narrow selvage goods have a higher yield of yardage per garment than regular wide goods.

5) Most of the really high end brands that sell "raw" or "dry" denim don't sell huge quantities of jeans like Diesel, Gap, A+F, American Eagle, Mavi, etc. Smaller runs = higher cost.

6) Attention to detail.

7) Location of manufacturing.

8) I'm sure there is more.

Hope that helps and makes sense.

Moderation in all things. Hey John, it's only Fashion!

[peteyross]

I've got a size 30 in the Howies OSD. They fit fairly true to size, but the legs are straighter and a little looser than your average 501 replica. Ring Ring was correct in that they are narrow in the hips.

[hahnstch]

more sick stuff from rakuten to die for, damn i should stop browsing rakuten...

http://www.rakuten.co.jp/m-basic/537125/537132/

absolutely love that japanese artwork there

[DAETWON]

I've not found a better jean than the denim not denim TOPMAN premium denim range - the raw selvedge unwashed jean is quality. unusual to see such advances from a highstreet brand.

[35mm]

I've been eyeing a pair of Rag & Bone, selvage, 11 oz. The wash has a greenish hue, much like the 5EPs I've seen posted. They're nice jeans. They're also expensive. Do other's feel they are too high? Would any one rate them as close to equal to 5EPs, or more on par with PDCs, Earnest Sewns, etc?

[darknworn]

Julian Red jeans: http://www.julianredjeans.com/

Looks interesting, particularly the california v-boys black 14.5 oz selvage denim. Does anyone own a pair? They said they have a retailer in NYC, any local willing to stop by and have a look?