Varsity Jackets

[Guest jmatsu]

[chingon]

damn, that's sick, with the 86 and everthing

[Tyro1]

alright so I'm thinking of black body, white sleeves, but with black ribbing on the body and white ribbing on the cuffs, then black snap buttons and pocket trim. Not very traditional, with no contrasting, but could be cool I think.

[dismalfuture]

can make anything you want, but you sure about white ribbing on the cuffs? They'd get pretty grody, really quickly...

[Tyro1]

yeah I thought of that, and may change my mind to cream when I order... just like the idea of tonal matched ribbing on the body and sleeves...

[homi29]

dismal, do you have access to a red wool in this shade?

pretty much what my ideal varsity would look like except in your cut.

do you guys think this would look good in navy if the ribbing was only on the buttom part (not on the cuffs or collar).

i kinda like the subtleness of dismals sample but ia gree with brad that the striping detail is kinda key. just dont want the striping to make the piece look unbalanced.

[dismalfuture]

I got 44's and 46's scaled now, 16.5" and 17.5" shoulders respectively. Done professionally so everything is 5% and 10% smaller than the 48's measurements, respectively. See post #448 and see what you think.

Those sizes now in production.

[dizzhizz]

once you tweak and perfect the 48s, give me a head's up.

thanks dismal.

[ethanlee29]

I got 44's and 46's scaled now, 16.5" and 17.5" shoulders respectively. Done professionally so everything is 5% and 10% smaller than the 48's measurements, respectively. See post #448 and see what you think.

Those sizes now in production.

you mean 10% and 5% respectively right? this is what i came up with:

44, 46 respectively

Shoulders 16.5", 17.5"

Pit to Pit 19.1", 20.2"

Collar to Hem 19.8, 21"

Collar to Hem (Back) 21.6", 22.8"

Sleeve 23.7", 25"

[dismalfuture]

yup, thanks for that. How do those sound everybody? way out of whack or something we can work with, by simply adding to sleeve/body length?

Width is much harder to adjust here, length is no problem....

Again, the pit to pit isn't super critical here because the sides taper down to the waist, and it's not supposed to be a 'tight' jacket a la a rider's or something, so prioritize that measurement behind the shoulder width. I will be making up a 44 and 46 sample from my stock measurements if you guys think those numbers ethanlee posted sound good.

[the_state]

you planning to do 50's or 52's for those of us whom lack an eastern metabolism and/or will power?

[dismalfuture]

yeah, unfortunately though I have to hand-draw those and it'll take a little time to finesse those out, the xerox won't let me upscale the 105 and 110% form the size 48 to give me my baseline pattern (or least the guy told me so... can anyone versed in copy machines confirm/negate?) Keep in mind my patterns are huge and in a 2' X 1.5' sketchbook.

[the_state]

stay strong, playa-fly

[redX]

maybe you can ask your tailor to help you out to draw the larger sizes?

[ethanlee29]

46 seems a good fit for me, but i think i'll wait for the measurements from the sample you're making

[dismalfuture]

The 46 sample will take another week to make, if I do make it. It'll probably be my personal jacket so there might be a few twists to it too, I haven't worked out the details. It'll seriously just measure out exactly 5% smaller than the 48 that's already made, I had pattern reduced 5% on a xerox so there'll be no surprises, and the 44 will be 10% smaller than the 48, on the dot.

Also, I had the extreme bunching issue with the ribbing worked out, my guy will be be doing a natural relaxed rib now, I think that will solve the perceived ballooning issue and also look far better and more complete. That will begin with the very first production models (which are in progress as we speak) and go out pretty soon to their owners.

I'm going to go collect more materials and sample materials today.

[willy cheesesteak]

*fingers crossed in hopes of you finding matching striped trim*

[ethanlee29]

so you're takin orders for the 44/46's now?

[OMEGA JELLY JIGGLE]

ayo take pics of the market where you getting

just wondering

turn into denim contest type thread lol

[dismalfuture]

It's pretty much hell on earth, thomas highstreet knows the place too and can testify.

44's and 46's are ready for order if you guys like the sound of those measurements ethanlee posted up.

I grabbed a bunch of materials today so I'll post a pic in a sec to give you an idea of what I've got on hand.

Grabbed some oxblood tanned calfskin (probably gonna make myself an oxblood leather on varsity red concept for my own jacket), some black lamb, white lamb for a pending order, and a grey-taupe vegetable dyed lamb like a Rick Owens leather. Would look sick with the navy wool body. Navy wool is like some sort of cashmere blend, which I picked up 5 or 6 yards of today.

I did find a good matching double stripe trim that matches the navy, but it must be ordered and possibly in 100 yd rolls, so that might not be an option right now, we'll see.

[dismalfuture]

I've also completely forgotten up until now, that if you want to get really creative and have some sort of wool pile/felt backed custom patches or embroidery on these, that is an option too. You could order 'shithead' arched across the back, easy enough to do.

I am trying to see about Sacred Hearts, that is probably easily doable.

[dismalfuture]

Sacred Hearts repro jacket anyone?

[6ixes&7evens]

size 46 in Navy prz. shoot me paypal will cop next week.

245 total correct?

[OMEGA JELLY JIGGLE]

god damn are you like getting a hookup for free shit?

how much money you spending??

considering you buying ROLLS of high quality material and shit

[TransparentCranium]

wow those 44 measurements sound perfect for me

is pattern scaling usually done equally in all dimensions?

Also can you source single stripe ribbing for a non folded collar?

Or alternatively use the same ribbing but cut it so only one stripe shows on the collar. (collar ribbing width wont be as wide as the cuff/hem ribbing) Do you have a pic of the striped ribbing you have available by any chance.

[jo3 b]

as this was once a post for varsity jackets in general and has now turned into a toj post, perhaps you can create a post of your own.

i still wanna damn skookum jawn.

[dismalfuture]

Go buy a Skookum then, they're pretty easy to find, and cheap.

[jack napier]

dismal, you got enough on your plate... but when time permits, i'd love to see a picture of the new leathers you got.

[ethanlee29]

do coloured snaps cost extra? i like the sample jacket but with black snaps instead of white

[Mogli]

37 American size

18 shoulder

and the standard sleeve length you have on the 48 sounds good.

do you think I should go for the 48 or 46?

I wear 36 in flathead but the shoulders are a little tight.

great job on the jacket man!