Varsity Jackets

[dismalfuture]

Yeah, I've been hearing this about the shoulders, yet the sample fits me and Scais, shoulder to shoulder, and I'd consider myself a short 44-46, and Scais a really long 46, we're pretty similar shoulder to shoulder and sleeve length wise but he has 2" on height on me.... and I'm meeting up with dizzhizz and Alvahroe tomorrow, both of whom are larger 48-50's I believe, and I have a feeling they'll be too big for it, almost. I was thinking 19.5" for my sz 50's shoulder to shoulder.

I want people to keep in mind that I've cut the shoulders to the very ends of the shoulder points, where the sleeve will drop off squarely, and that the arms are kind of subtly curved, it should remind you of something like Raf has been doing lately...

edit: Raf comparison is kind of off, it makes this thing sounds more elegant and plaintive than it is (this thing has a lot of random dimensions because of the leather fall, etc) but I want people to visualize a shoulder that goes way out to the shoulder points to the limit without drooping... My reasoning here is that a dark soft wool finish can absorb a lot more visual dimension than a matte to sateen white or off-white leather sleeve can, so I am trying to strike a balance here, I know a lot of people are small-shouldered here and I wanted to bring shoulders out visually.

[willy cheesesteak]

dismal, for 46, preez do 17 shoulders, 25-25.5 sleeves.

[dismalfuture]

46 is gonna be pretty much that, 17-17.5" shoulders, 25-25.5 sleeves, 44 will follow suit, 16-16.5"ish shoulders, 24-24.5"ish sleeves...

[Fuuma]

Here's a couple other outtake fit photos I posted the other day, as you can see, it's not super restricting in the pits, but with the arms down, that extra fabric shifts to the back and gets lost, if that makes any sense.

A bit of a side view on the arms too:

Some good looking bitch in the house.

[dismalfuture]

that was my bleu steele

[homi29]

hi dismal been reading the thread i think id want it in a 46 or 44. Maybe a 46 since i dont want it too be too tight/small altough i will need to lop a bit off the sleeves (not a huge fan of longer sleeves on a jacket like this).

my ideal measurments would be something like

17.5 shoulders

20 p 2 p

length 24-25? (the sample looks a little short imo)

[OMEGA JELLY JIGGLE]

the new toj label reminds me of penetration

no homo

[freecat]

it looks egyptian to me.

[homi29]

looks like mlb reds x rangers to me

[dismalfuture]

Still scaling my sizes, but true size 48 dudes, your boat has come in. Measurements as posted on the previous page. I'm ready.

[MharcI]

I know this probably sounds stupid as hell, but what measures are you using? Euro or American. 48 would probably more like a small than a medium right?

[chingon]

european 48=american 38

[Vampyrvargfesten]

I know this probably sounds stupid as hell, but what measures are you using? Euro or American. 48 would probably more like a small than a medium right?

sounds like

44 = xs

46 = s

48 = m

from his measurements

[dismalfuture]

yeah, 44-52:

44= XS

46 = S

48 = M

50 = L

52 =XL

[MharcI]

Ah gotcha, sounds great then

[dismalfuture]

Here's the sample on another guy, dizzhizz. He's like a 48-50, he's 73kg (right? around there) and 5'11'ish, so about the same height as Scais but 15 lbs heavier, mainly upper body. Jacket fit him well but I think he could probably bump up to a 50, the sample's shoulders and pits were tight on him.

My pics are terrible, I know, I forget to take pics of this stuff til I've drank like 5 beers..

[ken shinoda]

those varsity look sick!

how much do they cost?

[dismalfuture]

$250 shipped anywhere in the world. 1.5-2 week process, depending on various factors.

[OMEGA JELLY JIGGLE]

yo dismal, is this the newer sample that's more like a 48?

so the one you wore the first fit pics you took - that was like a 46 right?

[Ahlvahroe]

thats my hand in the background, bitches!

i do think the fit does look better on dismal then on dizz but like you already said its mostly cause of the slight tightness in teh shoulders.

anyway, i was fucking impressed with the jacket. the cashmere used on the body and the really nice leather sleeves, the detail on teh hardware used, the craft used on the stitching, all of this is really on point.

in the back of my head i have a feeling that dismal wasnt planning on making this up to a 52, but we met and he decided to be a nice enough guy to include that sizing with it, but i could be wrong

[Scais]

52 for the fatties

[revoked]

yo dismal, is this the newer sample that's more like a 48?

so the one you wore the first fit pics you took - that was like a 46 right?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think it's the same jacket. It was supposed to be a 46, but after some feedback, he's making it longer & calling it the 48.

[dismalfuture]

correct, same sample, 3rd person to try it on so we can see what those shoulders/sleeves look like on different people.

My original '46' is now transformed into a 48, with the same shoulder/sleeve dimensions, with a longer body, which should make it appear slimmer, and these changes will move up/down with other sizes.

48's are now in production!

[ProfMonnitoff]

5'11, 73kg is definitely nowhere near a 50 in european sizing

i'm taller and heavier than that and don't own a single sz 50 piece

[dismalfuture]

dizz lifts weights regularly, he's not kunk sized but he's a lot thicker than you man. You and I have more in common frame-wise.

dizz wears 50's in Raf and Dior, with alterations to sleeve length usually, FWIW.

[willy cheesesteak]

dismal, do you have access to a red wool in this shade?

pretty much what my ideal varsity would look like except in your cut.

[dismalfuture]

I've found it hard to find non-coat colors of quality wool, but I'm going to give it another shot tomorrow. My priorities lie in putting a really nice wool in th jackets before giving color choices. For now I have the varsity red, which is between maroon and that bright red, I'd call it blood red. I have the perfect matching solid rib trim, finding matching stripe trim is nearly impossible unless it's one of the 3 or 4 standard sports jacket colors (black, navy, grey, red) so matching is hard for the stripe.

Could get that exact colorway from my tailor's in-house fabrics but I know honestly that you wouldn't be happy with the quality of his materials.

[willy cheesesteak]

ahh i see. appreciate the patience in answering all these questions anyway. whatever can and can't be done, i'd probably be willing to settle for the blood red or navy, but the striped trim part i feel is so necessary for the look of the jacket. i also showed my homeboy this thread and he's interested in a varsity too, lulz.

[ethanlee29]

44/46's comin soon?

[dizzhizz]

dizz lifts weights regularly, he's not kunk sized but he's a lot thicker than you man. You and I have more in common frame-wise.

dizz wears 50's in Raf and Dior, with alterations to sleeve length usually, FWIW.

def. so. i'm beefier topwise since i lift regularly and always need to alter raf or dior in a 50 but a standard 48 for margiela and other otr (off the rack) suit sizes.