Varsity Jackets

[acidline]

I think my regular jacket size is a 46(Medium, don't really know how the numbers work)?

-18

-24, but I like the leather stackage.

I'd be down for a dark gray body on black sleeves.

[dismalfuture]

like i said dismal, i know it's supposed to do that and i am by no means asking for hare proportions, i just think that the balloon effect needs to be softened a bit as is. my guess is that the jacket has 22 or 23 inches in the chest from the pics you have posted. you could post some measurements already.

gonna take this into account too, have the guy get less aggressive with the gathering.

[MharcI]

I think making it just a piiiiinch longer would do wonders. From what it seems now it hits just at the waist? Maybe another inch or two, for it seems like the shorter look would go in and out of style through the years, but longer would keep it classic looking

[capa]

if it fits like this I will be happy:

[TransparentCranium]

Dude, there is no way your arm is 21" long. I am 44/46, 17" shoulders, but have something like a 26.5" sleeve requirement.

no man, thats the measurement from where my shoulder drops to my wrist. Seem to wrist on a tailored shirt i have is 22inch. (it hits .5 centbelow the start of the meat of the thumb) as for the sleeve lenght of the varsity i would assume it should be around 24.5inch including cuff to allow for the amount of stack i like on soft leather sleeves. Being short (5'6) I have to slim sleeves and pant legs to maintain slim proportions as I hem them, basically shrinking them instead of just hemming. But I understand I'm a special case, maybe we can talk about some slight alteration to sleeve and body length when they start getting made.

[dismalfuture]

we can lop off a couple inches off the pattern at the end of the sleeve, no problem. It might less trim looking but you might have thicker arms than me too so it might work in your favor.

[onbeatontime]

-46 (maybe a tad bigger like the sample)

-17

-25

although i'm not a 100%, would like to see different sizing option measurements first.

also agree it needs to be slightly longer. looking good though.

cant remember if they have or not but have the sample actual measurements been posted?

[dismalfuture]

I just met up with Scais, and we took a couple different real-life fit pics. He is a bit taller and bigger than me (about 2" taller +lbs heavier) and the sample worked out better on him, I'll let him post and talk about what he thinks of the jacket.

[dismalfuture]

cant remember if they have or not but have the sample actual measurements been posted?

nah, sorry, I am being lazy lately. I will do this soon for you guys.

[Scais]

just came back from my meeting with the temple of jawns. This jacket exudes luxury. The materials used and the craftsmanship is 2nd to none. Leather is buttery and the cashmere is nice and soft.

im 5'11/180cm 145lbs/66kg

bonus picture. dismals dog

[dismalfuture]

post dem fit pics niagra

[Scais]

yo u suck at taking pictures hahaha

[dismalfuture]

I drink better than I take pictures

[chingon]

talk about fit please, scais, It does look like it has the length of a traditional varsity jacket, which isn't a bad thing, I would just like it a little longer.

but as Dismal said himself, one patter cannot please everyone. the jacket capa posted looks too slim for someone like me who isn't stick thin and likes to layer.

[capa]

definitely needs to be longer IMO.

[Scais]

the fit is too short on me body wise, but the sleaves are spot on. its a bit slimmer than a "traditional" varsity jacket however i wouldnt go as far as saying it is a "sufu" fit (skin tight). What i really liked about it is how the sleeves look slim from the front, but wide from the sides like a traditional varsity.

edit: i'm usually a 48, and the sample is a 46 so it is a bit short on me, im sure this will b fixed in the final version

[TransparentCranium]

as i think dismal mentioned he's going to turn his 46 into a 48 and i believe lengthen it appropriately

[onbeatontime]

arms look perfect there but definitely agree that the body needs to be longer - sample size should be perfect for me with the added length. like the fit too, not too slim or too baggy. nice.

[mr fluffernutter]

i think the shoulders might benefit from being taken in a bit

[chronoaug]

I feel the same way about the shoulders, ballooning and body length. I do understand about wanting to reflect true varsity jacket and it supposed to be a little heritagey and not just fashiony. But yea

[OMEGA JELLY JIGGLE]

am I the only one that thinks the body looks fine? I almost want the sleeves to be shortened a couple centimeters

hope this isn't one of those jawns that looks good as you pose but dumb as fuck when you walking/sitting

do some blackbird type fit pics...

so far looking dope, would be fantastic as is

[Lucas]

Y'all need to stop. I think Dismal did a great job and was pretty thorough throughout. I likes to fuck with proportions so I am leaning more towards the traditional fitting varsity. Like he said go kop Hare if you want a super tight fitting jkt.

[chronoaug]

Who said supertight fitting?

[saepnirg]

The body looks fine to me but I can imagine it getting a bit balloonish on the taller folks.

Dismal what size would you reckon for someone 188cm and 65kgs?

[dismalfuture]

For someone 188cm/62kg, I'd probably say 52 (???) Im cutting a 50 and a 52 and I'll post back with those measurements. Tyro1 (as well as others) wants one of the two sizes (probably a 52) so I'm sure there'll also be a size you fit into.

Short re: patterns, still working (lots of of work!) but I'm thinking now each size will be slim, but true to size. As I've said, I'd fit this to your shoulder span and arm length to really bring out the pattern's cut here.

I am meeting up with a couple other sufu guys in the next day or two who are larger 48's than Scais I believe, so I will be able to verify if the sample's arms and shoulders really are good to go as a 48.

Lengthening the body on my sample's pattern another 1.5"-2" or so is not a problem at all. I'll just tape in that much in the midsection above the hand pockets, and retaper slightly. You can see that if I do add the extra midsection length and bring the hem down, the jacket itself will look rather slim.

It's also looking like nobody thinks they can be pleased re: sizes, but I'm just gonna cut a size for each chest size beginning with 44, and I'll probably top out at 52, so that's 5 stock shoulder/arm/body combinations I'll have on hand that I think will satisfy most everyone, and then people who want things like shortened arms or a 'short' or 'long' size can also be accommodated. It should also allow people to size up or down to fit their tastes, if they want to go slim, or natural house cut.

I do really think most people will be particularly pleased by sticking with the stock size and not worrying. Leave it up to me, I'm not selling anything yet, because I'm perfecting this thing til it really is perfect, and I feel good and ready.

The two things I did have in my mind for all the clothes I make though, are to lean towards slimmer dudes, longish arms, but with the ability (at this stage of MTM at least) to lop off a couple inches of sleeve length for people who want that sort of thing, etc. Actual widths of sleeves, pit to pit, shoulders, that's all in the cut and can't be altered, because it'll throw everything off.

[redX]

dismal i just want you to know that i really appreciate all the effort you are putting into this (and i'm sure everyone else too), and that when you are finished i really want to kop this jawn for sure. even now i think the varsity looks awesome but the fact that you are putting up with all the criticizm shows that you are a person who does shit right.

would pos rep if i could

[saepnirg]

agreed i really like the way this jacket is going and the only reason i'm concerned is that i'm not gonna be able to get the most outta your work because of my strange proportions.

not sure if this is the right place for it but will the TOJ be releasing any other pieces in the near future?

[Egpt]

dismal seriously, just put all the measurements of the jacket up, it takes less time to take the measurements than to make a 3 paragraph post.

i think it needs to be longer and be slightly slimmer in the body because of the baloon effect, but if i see the measurements i will be sure of it because i am used to buy almost all my clothes through the web.

chest, waist width, length, shoulders, sleeve width and sleeve length, 6 simple measurements.

[dismalfuture]

Ok, I've got measurements on this sample, which I've cut the real pattern for. The adjustments I made that will be measurable and visible is the extra added 4cm in the torso, from the pits to the tops of those hand pockets. Imagine the sample, as on Scais, but hitting his true waist. Remember too that with an elastic banded bottom, the extra 4cm won't show as 4cm, the banding will constrict and bring up the hemline naturally.

Anyhow, a visual of the size 48, post-adjustment:

I'm getting these measurements, from the sample as sewn up, and the pattern itself:

shoulder to shoulder across: 47cm (18.5")

Pit to pit: 54cm (21.25") (not a vital number to this pattern's shape, keep in mind)

Sleeve length: 66cm down to cuff end (26.3") (Seems longer in real life than a 26.3" but that's what you're seeing in the pics)

Front placket: 56cm ( 22")

Back, from bottom of collar to bottom of hem: 62cm (24") (might remeasure, this sounds off??)

That is how it is shaping up. How do you 48 guys think about those measurements? Remember to keep in mind that the pattern is shoulders, outer sleeve length, body length, in terms of priorities. Pit to pit isn't as critical, this cut loses/hides fabric with movement.

Also, 44, 46, 50, 52 guys, what kind of shoulder/sleeve lengths would you consider average?

[Tyro1]

dont know if it's me, but I'd say those measurements are large for a 48 dis. Personally I'd be after a 22" chest, 19-20" shoulders, 25" length and around 29-30" sleeve, and I consider myself between a 50 and 52