Belts

[seanpsk]

my latest pick up from self edge... Iron Heart Belt

awesome belt

[DENIM SAILOR]

Was bored today, so I whipped up a studded belt. Also fits a Buco leather jacket.

Sick belt bro!

[Ord]

my latest pick up from self edge... Iron Heart Belt

Nice belt indeed, but for the same money you can buy 3 or even 4 belts made by the very able artisans we often mention here.

Nothing wrong if you are a ironheart freak (like peterock, who has an awesome IH collection), but if you're in for a superthick plain belt made of amazing leather, i don't see the point in paying so much more for the same (or inferior) product.

Of course i don't mean to offend you, just my point of view

[stukovx]

Corter

[niix]

Nice belt indeed, but for the same money you can buy 3 or even 4 belts made by the very able artisans we often mention here.

Nothing wrong if you are a ironheart freak (like peterock, who has an awesome IH collection), but if you're in for a superthick plain belt made of amazing leather, i don't see the point in paying so much more for the same (or inferior) product.

Of course i don't mean to offend you, just my point of view

Examples of similar belts at a more reasonable price?

I'm currently obsessing over the Sugar Cane tan belt, but can't find it anywhere ;(

[beautiful_FrEaK]

maybe here?

http://www.mil-mil.net/Accessory/belt/sugarcane/fo1406/fo1406.html

[mikecch]

^^ The 11oz calf leather that Calf Japan has used for IH's belt is good, but what I think Ord meant is that it doesn't originate from a special tannage, nor is the leather something out of the ordinary (by leather nerd standards.)

For those folks who live in countries with great, traditional tanneries - it is very possible to find a local craftsman who can make you a custom belt from local speciality leather and hardware, at a lower price than buying from Japanese brand names.

Not that there's anything wrong with buying an IH belt - but as I've said before, once you get serious enough about leather goods, you'll invariably have to find a couple of good guys who can do custom stuff for you when you need a belt that goes above and beyond what can be found on the average SuFu belt-rack.

Leathers tanned the traditional way (as in, pit tanned with a pure bark source for many months)?

Leathers with spectacular grain growth?

Leathers of other older tannages (brain, nut, smoke, etc)?

Leathers that oxidises in a variety beautiful shades & hues (don't you get bored of looking at that 2-month mixed-veg tan colour all the time)?

These things you can't get from just ordering on Rakuten or a webshop - you'll have to find a craftsman who is willing to go that extra distance to make something truly special and a tannery (or a currier, or even a private tanner) which is obliging enough to produce those special leathers that people can no longer appreciate or are willing to pay for.

Or join my group-buy belt projects and let me do the work for you

If you want an example (in the UK), check out Terry Dear's Quercus belts.

The best non-currier finished vegetable tanned leather (12 months 15 oz English oak-bark pit tanned) I ever had the pleasure of handling - not to mention produced exclusively for the purpose of making Quercus belts.

The most awesome construct, stemming from decades of experience in professional belt making.

A variety of designs, colours and hardware to choose from.

Shipped anywhere in the world for $75.

Another example (in the USA) is the Joe Hill and off-shoot belts from Scott Willis.

Moser 17 oz hand-curried leather - again, produced for making these special belts.

Sewn with mule deer tendon and secured with hand-hammered copper burr rivets.

Hand-made and hand-cut Damascus steel buckle (or a large selection of other buckles if Damascus ain't your thing)

A variety of designs, constructs and colours that may be negotiated with Scott.

Shipped anywhere in the world for $100 (Damascus buckle pricing.)

[TheNorthern]

[Guyute]

Thanks for all the input on oiling and conditioning everyone. I get such a chub when mikecch gets talking about some of this stuff. Can we expect any new project anytime soon? Anything in the works?

[hollowsleather]

That wasn't meant to be the point. Removed.

[tropicalbird]

That picture will sell you belts

[chiggah]

About to get a tanner goods belt, what do most people think of their prices ? Great value for money or ?

[mikecch]

Thanks for all the input on oiling and conditioning everyone. I get such a chub when mikecch gets talking about some of this stuff. Can we expect any new project anytime soon? Anything in the works?

Cheers mate - nothing planned as yet...should probably wait till next year so folks from both projects can get some decent wear on their belts before considering another.

That wasn't meant to be the point. Removed.

That picture will sell you belts

What is this interesting belt picture? I missed it

[TheNorthern]

Oh god yes! i paid 100bones for mine, worth more than that to me.

don't think twice, it can last you forever.

About to get a tanner goods belt, what do most people think of their prices ? Great value for money or ?

[chiggah]

Oh god yes! i paid 100bones for mine, worth more than that to me.

don't think twice, it can last you forever.

Do you happen to know the difference between corter and tanner goods standard belt ?

Tanner is almost double the price

[ronbiggles]

Got a brilliant reply back from Terry regarding the Quercus, with an interesting video about the traditional tanning process. I don't expect he'll mind me reposting it here:

The colours of the hides do tend to vary a bit, as does the grain. The colour differences occur as a result of oxydization in the hide, and I usually find that 'fresh' hides are more pink than those that are a little older. I always keep my hides rolled up in a dark corner of the workshop, and I have noticed that the leather starts to darken slightly as soon as it is exposed to light and air.

I think the differences in grain are a result of the finishing process at the tannery. After tanning, the hides are 'set' to flatten out the worst of the undulations. This process is carried out by hand, and I believe that the degree of 'flattening' is purely a result of who does the job . . . some workers press harder than others, and this results in a tighter grain. The hides I use are only subjected to this first 'setting'. If these butts had gone further through the process, they would have been immersed for several hours in a mixture of molten mutton fat and fish oil . . . each tannery has its own 'secret recipe' . . . and then 'set' to remove the growth. The setting process packs the fibres of the leather down much more tightly, and reduces the caliper of the finished butt. The butts are then hand-dyed and greased again, resulting in a very shiny finish, with virtually no visible growth or scars. I've attached a pic of the dunking-bath at the tannery . . . an evil-looking room, especially when the vat on the left of the picture is steaming hot!

You can see the first setting process on a video I have posted at http://s1132.photobucket.com/albums/m564/celticleather/?action=view&current=Tannery.mp4. The setting process is shown at about 4min 14sec into the clip.The film was shot at the tannery in Devon, where the owner, Andrew Parr, keeps me supplied with the 15oz leather that I use for these belts.

Hope this supplies some of the answers!

Best regards

Terry

[TheNorthern]

i mean, its much cheaper, but the edges are not burnished and waxed, the buckle isn't offered in brass, and there are fewer variations of the design offered. it depends on what you're looking for in a belt.

Do you happen to know the difference between corter and tanner goods standard belt ?

Tanner is almost double the price

[mikecch]

^ IIRC Corter mentioned he uses Mexican-made leather?

Sounds like Thoroughbred...

And although a straight cut, the last time I checked Corter belts are waxed burnished? (Plz correct me if I'm wrong!)

I think Tanner uses W&C's 'bridle'?

Both are basic veg. tanned leathers, initially without much grain growth.

Corter's offering do have a more natural colour, and I think could be more easily treated with oils and waxes to personal liking (and to better grain definition), due to the fact that most North/South American 'bridle' are essentially drum-hot-stuffed leather.

If hot-stuffed it must be, I think the 'harness' offered by the various US tanneries is a better option for belts.

But in terms of simple veg. tanned leathers, it's really all a matter of personal preferences.

If you want to nerd hard & really individualise your belt, get a belt made of good quality skirting leather from W&C or another reputable US tannery and play around with it yourself - a bit harder to treat & care for, but the results are surely worth the effort.

[TheNorthern]

looks like a nice belt but those edges look unfinished

[mikecch]

looks like a nice belt but those edges look unfinished

It's a straight cut, and you can see the same thing on some of Tender's belt offerings (which are a class above both Tanner and Corter belts.)

I guess a straight cut without burnish does save time and money, but some people actually prefer that on thicker belts.

Just be careful though, without actually touching the edges (or seeing a macro pic of the edge) there's no way of knowing whether it's been wax burnished or not - I've seen straight cut belts with that appearance which have definitely been burnished.

Also need to watch out for belts that look as if they've been finely wax burnished, but some months down the track (after wear n' tear) find out that they've been simply edge-kotted or coated with some sealant and not properly burnished at all.

[chiggah]

I am digging the Terry Dear belts.. looks really well made, thick and attention to detail

[TheNorthern]

yeah those are cool too.. i'd say test the waters man.

we all had to do it to know what works for yourself.

[Ord]

Got a brilliant reply back from Terry regarding the Quercus, with an interesting video about the traditional tanning process. I don't expect he'll mind me reposting it here:

Thanks for sharing Terry's comments Ron. The Documentary is pretty cool and informative too. I don't know if the leather he sells really goes through the whole process shown in the video, although, surely i wish so. Had the same belts come from Japan and gone through the same labour-intensive process, you'd probably have to sell a kidney to finance the purchase of a trousers holder!

Props to Terry and his leather provider for keeping it honest

Can't rep you twice, according to the SuFu system, but it's the thought that counts

[tropicalbird]

I guess a straight cut without burnish does save time and money, but some people actually prefer that on thicker belts.

Properly finished edges is what separates pro's from amateurs. In the long run, an unfinished edge will look horrid.

Also need to watch out for belts that look as if they've been finely wax burnished, but some months down the track (after wear n' tear) find out that they've been simply edge-kotted or coated with some sealant and not properly burnished at all.

Edge kote is a durable finish, will take years to wear down and probably outlasts wax burnishes. Believe it or not, edges usually get burnished before getting edge kote.

[mikecch]

Properly finished edges is what separates pro's from amateurs. In the long run, an unfinished edge will look horrid.

Edge kote is a durable finish, will take years to wear down and probably outlasts wax burnishes. Believe it or not, edges usually get burnished before getting edge kote.

Actually, I find an unfinished straight cut to be alright on thicker belts.

But I give the edges a wipe-down with wax as part of my maintenance anyway.

I do understand that people usually burnish before edge-kotting, but I've also experienced and seen folks who don't do the burnishing properly - and it really shows once the edge-kot peels away.

For me they don't really last a few years, as least not on the thicker work belts.

Also really hate those wipe-down 'burnishes' with gum compounds...

Yes, beeswax burnishes don't last all that long - but the point is that it can be redone with a little effort at home, and it ages well.

Scott mentioned to me paraffin burnishes last longer, but I've never tried it before.

[darly900]

What actually happens if you overoil leather?

Might be the wrong thread but I had a piece of scrap in a bag with a bottle of neatsfoot which leaked and I was wondering what would happen if I left it in the sun to dry out?

[mikecch]

^ Over-oiling makes the leather too soft and stains it big time.

Putting it in the sun will make the darkening of leather worse.

You'd want to use a gentle leather cleaning agent over the area - but don't get too zealou...depending on the tannage of the leather, the oil might spread out more evenly with time.

[youonlyliveonce]

my current belt is only a little over three months old, but age is definitely showing. here are some pictures of the slow progress

[darly900]

^ Over-oiling makes the leather too soft and stains it big time.

Putting it in the sun will make the darkening of leather worse.

You'd want to use a gentle leather cleaning agent over the area - but don't get too zealou...depending on the tannage of the leather, the oil might spread out more evenly with time.

It's brain tanned deer, I gave it a wash in just water and it seems to have removed a lot of the excess oil. Anyone know whether I need to stretch it before it dries as it has shrunk a lot or will it stretch after drying?

Thanks

[mikecch]

It's brain tanned deer, I gave it a wash in just water and it seems to have removed a lot of the excess oil. Anyone know whether I need to stretch it before it dries as it has shrunk a lot or will it stretch after drying?

Thanks

You'll need to work and stretch that brain-deer before it dries otherwise it'll become very stiff (unless it has been smoked).