Real McCoy's / Joe McCoy's Jeans

[zk4025]

丹寧布料久經使用後的差異 2 (Ex . Joe McCOY 901)

å‰ä¸€ç¯‡æ到布料使用後的差異性時以Sugar Cane 40301舉例,本 篇就以自己最近穿的Joe McCOY 901 åšç¤ºç¯„

Joe McCOY 901 使用 14oz 100% 純棉 製作,棉質æ»ç´—與梭織時布料並沒有特別åšå¾ˆçªå‡ºç‰¹å¾µçš„設定

因此會與許多常見的復刻牛仔褲類型款å¼å¸ƒæ–™ç›¸ä¼¼,這樣類型的布料並ä¸å®¹æ˜“辨識

若將染料的因素考慮進去,相信會增加ä¸å°‘識別的特點

Joe McCOY 901 因為版型設計臀部較åˆèº«ä¸”å低腰所以穿了一陣å­å¾Œå¤§è…¿é—œç¯€è™•çš„皺摺明顯密集了ä¸å°‘

但是從第二張照片起已經å¯ä»¥çœ‹å‡ºæ­¤æ¬¾å¼å¸ƒæ–™ç¶“éŽç©¿ç”¨å¾Œ,表é¢è‰²è½é¡¯ç¾å‡ºç›¸ä¼¼æ–¼â€œå¹³ç¹”â€å¸ƒæ–™çš„å字形交錯縱è½ç´‹è·¯

雖然並ä¸ç‰¹åˆ¥æ˜Žé¡¯,但å°æ–¼å€‹äººä¾†èªªé€™æ˜¯å¾ˆå¥½çš„一個辨識é‡é»ž

（致於刷紋如何...........我想我會直接忽略掉）

åé¢å…§å±¤çš„經緯紗交錯的方å¼ä¹Ÿå¾ˆæ˜Žé¡¯æ¯”Sugar Cane 40301 來得更工整è¦å¾‹

ä¸éŽä»ç„¶çœ‹å¾—出幾處因為摩擦或者å折與多次洗滌後,經緯紗梭織排列變得較密集些

拉近è·é›¢å¾Œå¯ä»¥æ›´æ˜Žé¡¯çœ‹å‡ºå‰é¢æ到的細部痕跡

在色è½ä¸¦ä¸å¤ªæ˜Žé¡¯çš„部ä½å°±æœƒè¼ƒé›£çœ‹æ¸…楚布料的特徵

臀部較åˆèº«çš„剪è£æ¬¾å¼è¤²å­ç¶“éŽç©¿ç”¨å¾Œçš„布料呈ç¾ç‰¹è‰²åœ¨é€™å¼µè‡€éƒ¨ç‰¹å¯«ç…§ç‰‡ä¸­è¡¨æ¼ç„¡éº

通常這類型剪è£çš„褲å­ç©¿ä¹…了正是由兩後å£è¢‹ä¸­é–“範åœé–‹å§‹æ˜Žé¡¯çš„å‘四周æˆæ”¾å°„狀泛白

ä¸éŽå¥½è™•æ˜¯å¯ä»¥æ›´æ˜Žé¡¯çœ‹åˆ°å¸ƒæ–™åœ¨ç„¡çšºæ‘ºä¸¦ä¸”å¹³å‡è‰²è½å¾Œçš„原貌

所以這就是Joe McCOY 901 ,請記ä½å®ƒ

[SLAB]

not sure why u always post in chinese on an english forum but they sure look great

[ranonranonarat]

i think they might have a bit of trouble posting in english. they're from the shop called "faith" based off taiwan. their native language is chinese which might explain the choice of use of language. will be glad to translate if anybody needs anything to be translated. some of their pictures of worn 906's posted a year or so back were fantastic.

[coleslawyum]

Beautiful pairs… Looking forward to breaking out my 906 for the winter.

My daily beatdown for the next 4 months.

- Wolverine 744LTD

- Joe McCoy 906

[demonator]

yo spence i wanna see your old evis man how are those hanging up?

[coleslawyum]

Still got them. I'm waiting for the fall to hit. They are really baggy so I can wear them with my long johns. Still brand new with minimum wear.

[fre-co]

I'm trying to decide on another pair of warehouse, a pair of fullcounts or McCoys for my next pair. I'm hitting tokyo in december.

These past couple of pages might have sealed the deal.

[ranonranonarat]

for those of you who are keen on knowing what Kurt from "Faith" has talked about, I did a bit of translation. some of the details might sound a bit strange but i do believe that a large part of it was what he was trying to convey. enjoy.

Do you still recall the historical moments from the 1950's? Post WWII was a golden age for repros as well as for the garment industry due to rapid industrialisation during that time. The garments produced during this period not only included the beautiful designs inspired from the 20s – 30s, it also included the fine construction from the 40s. The Joe McCoy 905 was born from the conceptualisation of jeans made during the 1950s. The second generation of the Joe McCoy 905 features a slightly slimmer cut, lower rise as well as a slight difference in the hardware used. One of the special traits in the 905 was that most of the stitching used in the 905 was sewn using light lemon yellow 100% cotton stitching which is very different from the previous edition of the 905. Many have debated about the difference between the old McCoy's and the new McCoy's with some stating that the older versions are better. However, I do not agree with this. I own many pairs from the older McCoy series/range, used and unused and in my opinion, the newer batch is on par or even better in terms of the construction, detailing, and especially noticeable in the quality of materials used, etc. The tight weaved long staple cotton is important to note. (If you look at one of the pictures with the serged seams, the poster from "faith" notes that this is a fine attention to detail with it being serged over an end of the selvage portion)

**Author then goes on to share pictures from the new Real McCoys shop in Tokyo**

**The next series of images shows 2 pairs of jeans being hung side by side with one brand new with tags(left) and another used pair(right)**

He notes that they are both of the same brand, model and brand and takes these pictures to show the difference between the lengths in a non-washed pair and one that has been washed almost 22 times. It has almost been shortened by 2 inches by the owner. The following images show the detailed pictures of the jeans in the unsoaked state and he proceeds to ask the readers to take note of the fine details including the construction, denim, and the hardware.

**Author goes on to show the used pictures of the jeans**

He points out about the "roping effect" which occurs at the back of the pants, along the yoke, which is a beauty to behold. He also goes on to point out in the following pictures of how he did the chainstitch hem on his own and has used 2 different coloured threads for a two tone chainstitch effect which he also describes as "unecessary" or by direct translation, "mundane". The jeans were given a soak before being hemmed and he notes that the chainstitch effect is not as pronounced but still can be seen because of the machine (I assume to be a union special, from memory from older posts from the past) used, pulling against the fabric to give it the effect. In the following pictures he shows and tells us about how because of the wear, the chainstitch broke and hence he redid the stitching. He also shows us how the chainstitch inseam has worn away on the inside. A lot of the comments that follows points out to the fading that occurs around the whiskers. Not much to note here, fairly standard commentary, but do note the oxidised copper top button that says "Real McCoy Overalls" which looks great.

**The Real McCOY'S S613XH After 1 Year** (Post #476)

Taking opportunity of the great weather recently, the author gave his pair of S613XH, which was worn for one full year (2009), a wash. These were not worn after December last year and because of the humidity mold spots began to appear on the jeans and the detergent by SUGAR CANE was put to good use. He then begins to show some evo pics of the jeans from brand new to the various different months.

He notes that he will not be wearing these jeans much anymore however adds that this is one of his favourite pairs that he has worn to date. Perhaps some might wonder why this is his favourite pair even though there is no significant fading, he adds that when he first started wearing them, he had no high hopes that these would fade really nicely. By putting more attention to the small details that are on this pair, he feels that there is hardly anything that he owns with these details. Coupled with the fact that these were only worn for a year, he is very satisfied and happy with this pair. The damage on the coin pocket was actually caused by the zippo lighter which he carried around with him usually. He loves how the jeans does not fade with extremely high contrast and the favourite part of the fading on this pair of jeans has got to be on the back/back pocket. This is one of the pairs that he does not remove the backpocket stitching, allowing it to wear away with age. Do take note of the oxidised rivets around the coin pocket on this pair. At the end of post #478 the author notes that as he has more experience with wearing jeans, he starts to have different "demands" and has also refocused on what is important to him. Quantity and high contrast fading is no longer something that he emphasises on. Instead, what he now enjoys is the construction, the oxidising of the hardware and the "feel" of the jean is what is most important to him. Right now what he will be doing is really to be wearing one pair for a full year.

**Start of post #479**

A lot of people like to ascertain qualities of a jean through its fading properties. If you would like to find out more about the pair of jeans you're wearing, have a look at it during the initial fading stages. For this pair of jeans, we can see that there is a lot of vertical falling. This is easily distinguishable from the fabric and is a characteristic of the XH and SXH series from Joe McCoy. If you look at the denim and how it fades, closely, you can tell a lot about the fabric used. A lot of the time when people look at the fading on a pair of jeans, they place too much attention on the creased areas and miss out on the close up details of the jeans and he would like to remind everyone that there is more to fading than just the creases.

**Joe McCoy 901**

With the on and off wearing of this pair for the past year, we will begin to see more significant fading in the coming few months. The surface of the yarns of the jeans have already reached the stage that with a little more wear/abrasion, it will show the core of the yarn which is undyed. The author states that he is still not used to the lower rise on this model, perhaps due to the fact that he has been too used to wearing mid rise jeans.This is hisfirst pair of low rise jeans. The awkward creases on the jeans are due to the fact that he has not worn these since giving them a wash and will disappear with wear. Due to the low rise nature of this pair of jeans, the most difficult part (sic?) is actually around the thighs. There is too much stress around this area so hopefully there will not be too much creasing and fades here. Because of the way this pair of jeans fits, there tends to be a lot of very narrow and parallel whiskers around the thigh. Fortunately this is not as prevalent on this pair. The tightness on this pair of jeans also increases the rate at which the zippo lighter wears through the coin pocket. He adds that although there is some heavy creasing and slightly more contrasting whiskering (which he does not like), he accepts this because it is only natural. The wearing of the back belt loop is one of the areas that he enjoys more on this pair of jeans.

**Post #481**

The notes on the previous page are with reference and comparison with a pair of Sugar Cane 40301. This post will be with reference to the details on the 901 itself. This pair of jeans is made using 14oz 100% cotton. There are no special extremely special specs on the cotton of this pair of jeans and thus will be similar to a lot of the denim on other jeans, hence differentiation of the fabric is often difficult. However if you take into consideration the dyeing of the indigo of this jean, it will be noticeably different.

Due to the slimmer fit and the low rise nature, there will be a lot of parallel whiskering on these. From the second picture you can see that after a lot of wear, you can see the intersecting vertical falling against the perpendicular whiskering forming a t-shaped fade (not too sure about the translation of this). Although this is not glaringly obvious, this is a good differentiation point from other jeans.

If you have a look at the weft, you can see the weaving is a lot more consistent than a pair of Sugar Cane 40301. However you can see that the weft is a lot tighter due to perhaps friction or because of washing. You can also see the fabric details more clearly at the areas where there is a lot less fading.

Finally, you can see the fading really well at the back of this slimmer and tighter fitting jean.

[zk4025]

Joe McCOY 905XH after 12 years

這輩å­å¾žæ²’想象éŽè‡ªå·±èº«é‚Šçš„牛仔褲會有穿用超éŽå年的例å­

1999年秋冬購入於æ±äº¬éƒ½ä»£å®˜å±± GENERAL STORE (已經關閉）記得當åˆè‡ªå·±æ–·çºŒç©¿ç”¨äº†ç´„兩年後é¡è‰²ä¾ç„¶éžå¸¸æ·±

後來收起來一陣å­å°±äº¤çµ¦è€å“¥äº†

è€å“¥ä¸¦ä¸åƒè‡ªå·±éœ€è¦ä¸€å¹´æ›ç©¿ä¸€ä»¶ç‰›ä»”褲,所以他就一直穿著這件褲å­

直到昨日,我æ‰å°‡é€™ä»¶å·²ç¶“退役的 Joe McCOY 905XH 拿回來收ç€

看到12年後的狀態其實心裡很複雜,果然久經使用的牛仔褲別有一番風味

[zk4025]

[zk4025]

for those of you who are keen on knowing what Kurt from "Faith" has talked about, I did a bit of translation. some of the details might sound a bit strange but i do believe that a large part of it was what he was trying to convey. enjoy.

Do you still recall the historical moments from the 1950's? Post WWII was a golden age for repros as well as for the garment industry due to rapid industrialisation during that time. The garments produced during this period not only included the beautiful designs inspired from the 20s – 30s, it also included the fine construction from the 40s. The Joe McCoy 905 was born from the conceptualisation of jeans made during the 1950s. The second generation of the Joe McCoy 905 features a slightly slimmer cut, lower rise as well as a slight difference in the hardware used. One of the special traits in the 905 was that most of the stitching used in the 905 was sewn using light lemon yellow 100% cotton stitching which is very different from the previous edition of the 905. Many have debated about the difference between the old McCoy's and the new McCoy's with some stating that the older versions are better. However, I do not agree with this. I own many pairs from the older McCoy series/range, used and unused and in my opinion, the newer batch is on par or even better in terms of the construction, detailing, and especially noticeable in the quality of materials used, etc. The tight weaved long staple cotton is important to note. (If you look at one of the pictures with the serged seams, the poster from "faith" notes that this is a fine attention to detail with it being serged over an end of the selvage portion)

**Author then goes on to share pictures from the new Real McCoys shop in Tokyo**

**The next series of images shows 2 pairs of jeans being hung side by side with one brand new with tags(left) and another used pair(right)**

He notes that they are both of the same brand, model and brand and takes these pictures to show the difference between the lengths in a non-washed pair and one that has been washed almost 22 times. It has almost been shortened by 2 inches by the owner. The following images show the detailed pictures of the jeans in the unsoaked state and he proceeds to ask the readers to take note of the fine details including the construction, denim, and the hardware.

**Author goes on to show the used pictures of the jeans**

He points out about the "roping effect" which occurs at the back of the pants, along the yoke, which is a beauty to behold. He also goes on to point out in the following pictures of how he did the chainstitch hem on his own and has used 2 different coloured threads for a two tone chainstitch effect which he also describes as "unecessary" or by direct translation, "mundane". The jeans were given a soak before being hemmed and he notes that the chainstitch effect is not as pronounced but still can be seen because of the machine (I assume to be a union special, from memory from older posts from the past) used, pulling against the fabric to give it the effect. In the following pictures he shows and tells us about how because of the wear, the chainstitch broke and hence he redid the stitching. He also shows us how the chainstitch inseam has worn away on the inside. A lot of the comments that follows points out to the fading that occurs around the whiskers. Not much to note here, fairly standard commentary, but do note the oxidised copper top button that says "Real McCoy Overalls" which looks great.

**The Real McCOY'S S613XH After 1 Year** (Post #476)

Taking opportunity of the great weather recently, the author gave his pair of S613XH, which was worn for one full year (2009), a wash. These were not worn after December last year and because of the humidity mold spots began to appear on the jeans and the detergent by SUGAR CANE was put to good use. He then begins to show some evo pics of the jeans from brand new to the various different months.

He notes that he will not be wearing these jeans much anymore however adds that this is one of his favourite pairs that he has worn to date. Perhaps some might wonder why this is his favourite pair even though there is no significant fading, he adds that when he first started wearing them, he had no high hopes that these would fade really nicely. By putting more attention to the small details that are on this pair, he feels that there is hardly anything that he owns with these details. Coupled with the fact that these were only worn for a year, he is very satisfied and happy with this pair. The damage on the coin pocket was actually caused by the zippo lighter which he carried around with him usually. He loves how the jeans does not fade with extremely high contrast and the favourite part of the fading on this pair of jeans has got to be on the back/back pocket. This is one of the pairs that he does not remove the backpocket stitching, allowing it to wear away with age. Do take note of the oxidised rivets around the coin pocket on this pair. At the end of post #478 the author notes that as he has more experience with wearing jeans, he starts to have different "demands" and has also refocused on what is important to him. Quantity and high contrast fading is no longer something that he emphasises on. Instead, what he now enjoys is the construction, the oxidising of the hardware and the "feel" of the jean is what is most important to him. Right now what he will be doing is really to be wearing one pair for a full year.

**Start of post #479**

A lot of people like to ascertain qualities of a jean through its fading properties. If you would like to find out more about the pair of jeans you're wearing, have a look at it during the initial fading stages. For this pair of jeans, we can see that there is a lot of vertical falling. This is easily distinguishable from the fabric and is a characteristic of the XH and SXH series from Joe McCoy. If you look at the denim and how it fades, closely, you can tell a lot about the fabric used. A lot of the time when people look at the fading on a pair of jeans, they place too much attention on the creased areas and miss out on the close up details of the jeans and he would like to remind everyone that there is more to fading than just the creases.

**Joe McCoy 901**

With the on and off wearing of this pair for the past year, we will begin to see more significant fading in the coming few months. The surface of the yarns of the jeans have already reached the stage that with a little more wear/abrasion, it will show the core of the yarn which is undyed. The author states that he is still not used to the lower rise on this model, perhaps due to the fact that he has been too used to wearing mid rise jeans.This is hisfirst pair of low rise jeans. The awkward creases on the jeans are due to the fact that he has not worn these since giving them a wash and will disappear with wear. Due to the low rise nature of this pair of jeans, the most difficult part (sic?) is actually around the thighs. There is too much stress around this area so hopefully there will not be too much creasing and fades here. Because of the way this pair of jeans fits, there tends to be a lot of very narrow and parallel whiskers around the thigh. Fortunately this is not as prevalent on this pair. The tightness on this pair of jeans also increases the rate at which the zippo lighter wears through the coin pocket. He adds that although there is some heavy creasing and slightly more contrasting whiskering (which he does not like), he accepts this because it is only natural. The wearing of the back belt loop is one of the areas that he enjoys more on this pair of jeans.

**Post #481**

The notes on the previous page are with reference and comparison with a pair of Sugar Cane 40301. This post will be with reference to the details on the 901 itself. This pair of jeans is made using 14oz 100% cotton. There are no special extremely special specs on the cotton of this pair of jeans and thus will be similar to a lot of the denim on other jeans, hence differentiation of the fabric is often difficult. However if you take into consideration the dyeing of the indigo of this jean, it will be noticeably different.

Due to the slimmer fit and the low rise nature, there will be a lot of parallel whiskering on these. From the second picture you can see that after a lot of wear, you can see the intersecting vertical falling against the perpendicular whiskering forming a t-shaped fade (not too sure about the translation of this). Although this is not glaringly obvious, this is a good differentiation point from other jeans.

If you have a look at the weft, you can see the weaving is a lot more consistent than a pair of Sugar Cane 40301. However you can see that the weft is a lot tighter due to perhaps friction or because of washing. You can also see the fabric details more clearly at the areas where there is a lot less fading.

Finally, you can see the fading really well at the back of this slimmer and tighter fitting jean.

Thank you so much!!

[SLAB]

12 f*cking years; grail stuff

[LC_Miey]

Great post Kurt and thanks for the translation Ranon.

Those are beautiful pairs, always a pleasure to see some rmc jeans

[sense.]

RMC 991 slim for sale

[Flash]

Just got this Real McCoy ballpark sweat and its perfect , the fabric is soo soft with a beautiful texture (pics are not the best )

[alexx1976]

Edited October 28, 2012 by alexx1976

[ADDIC]

apparently the model 906 has been discontinued. they're coming out with a slightly different fit (906S). anyone got any info as to whats changed?

[onehundy]

Ordered lot 002 TTS. Hope it's not too baggy.

[Flash]

Hope your gonna post lots of pics ,been looking foward to seeing someone pick a pair up

[cool_hand]

Anyone know how much the Joe McCoy's loopwheel Ball Park Sweats shrink by?

[bod]

About an inch all over

Edited November 20, 2012 by Freezie

[cool_hand]

thanks Freezie, sounds like I need to size up to an XL!!

any experience with Studio D sweats - they are loopwheel but it's not as tight weave?

[fre-co]

My only complaint of my ballpark sweat is the forearms are tight and the cuffs are loose.

Shrinkage I would say was - in legth: about an inch, and not much in width where it stretches somewhat anyway.

[cool_hand]

The BallPark sweats I've seen are different to the one Flash posted, on the inside they are fluffy more like a short fleece pile.

Maybe that's a hoodie thing!

[Flash]

Yea the "fluffy" back just means it had been brushed

The ballpark sweat I have is also the lightweight model

Realy love McCoys loopwheel products there tee's are in my humble opinion the best ( at least what I have owned and handled )

What are you thinking about getting mate ?

Edited November 21, 2012 by Flash

[OkayamaDenim]

I was at the Osaka store in Horie this past weekend and picked up a pair of 991XHs by Joe McCoy.

Amazing fit, Beautiful fit. All around great pair.

photo hosting sites

[kimi]

did anyone pick up the RM repro of the wrangler wrange jacket? i want a large one real bad but they seek to have sold out everywhere

[Thor]

Can anyone help with shrinkage / sizing on the Lot 02 s ? BIG shows that for a 36 w, front rise is 12 (back rise is 18 !)

12 would be the lowest I would go , but could I expect any shrinkage ?

[Maynard Friedman]

^ I wholeheartedly agree.

Any real man would need at least a 12" front rise for those occasions when you're commando and 'aligning yourself vertically' and you don't want to peep out of the top of the waistband.

[Thor]

Exactly . So does anyone know what the shrinkage is like on the McCoy denim ?

The 12 - 18 ratio sounds good for me. High back to avoid builders bum. Lower at the front to rest my belly on