Denime

[yung_flynn]

On 4/14/2024 at 6:59 PM, Maynard Friedman said:

I’m surprised no-one has snapped up these W33 Kyotos for an attractive price. I can’t quite tell from the photos but they look nearly new.

Are the Kyotos pretty low rise and narrow through the thighs? These actually should fit my waist and inseam, but I fear that the rise and thigh would be too tight for me.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Yeah, the Kyoto is rather slim. Has similarities to the Resolute 710.

I am still searching for a W36 in this cut because of the slimmer nature.

[yung_flynn]

That makes sense. I just looked at Bear's measurements for Resolute 710 and they are very similar for a given waist. Resolute 710 is actually even 2 cm higher rise, 0.5 cm wider in thigh, and 1 cm wider in leg opening. I'm concerned that even the Resolute would be too tight for my frame, so the Kyotos are a no-go for me.

I did end up snagging a Denime 232 jacket from Celluloid to solve my Type 2 fix. It was a hard choice over WH 2002xx, but I figured that it was a good chance to try out Denime. In reality, it probably won't be hugely different from the 2002xx based on the Denime by Warehouse jeans - will probably grab a pair of 220a when back in stock or new 1954 when it arrives.

Edited April 17 by yung_flynn

[frank]

Damn, the patch on my 232 got absolutely toasted after the initial wash/machine dry.

[vIGGiou riou]

looks like my patch, but I used only 30 degrees wash and NO machine dry...

[frank]

Yeah, your patch actually looks super cool! I probably should've applied some Obenaufs to the patch before I wash/dried it...

[blooming]

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

Yeah, the Kyoto is rather slim. Has similarities to the Resolute 710.

I am still searching for a W36 in this cut because of the slimmer nature.

My Kyotos in size 32 fit almost identically to Resolute 710 in 33. They are slightly lower rise and a little less tapered, though.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

3 hours ago, frank said:

Damn, the patch on my 232 got absolutely toasted after the initial wash/machine dry.

I really dig that look...on others 😅 it would probably bug me as well on my pairs 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

To make the shipping worthwhile, I also got this sweater. Extra long cuffs.

 

And some wear and tear on my blanket lined Type2 

 

[indigoeagle]

Does the sweatshirt have the Spalding like cuffs?
Looks like it.
Nice detail

[beautiful_FrEaK]

On 4/16/2024 at 8:47 AM, Talan said:

Are you going to clean rivets with something like salt/vinegar paste?

Works like a charm!

Before

After

 

Tried on my old 66 pair.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@vIGGiou riou did your 101 arrive in the meantime?!

Are they Orizzonti or Shins?

[vIGGiou riou]

Hi Tilmann. Yes, of course they arrived. Picture I posted in start of April was my picture I did. They are Orrizonti era.... very nice piece. If RHT will do same evolution as my vintage Lee 101 Storm rider jacket, would be great.

They are now vacuumed in queue and waiting for theirs time to be worn...

Raw measurements of W34 is

W 88cm

Fr rise 31cm

B rise 41cm

Thigh in crotch 35 cm

Knee 25cm

Hem 23,5cm

Inseam 89cm 

[Maynard Friedman]

1 hour ago, vIGGiou riou said:

If RHT will do same evolution as my vintage Lee 101 Storm rider jacket, would be great.

Do you mean LHT @vIGGiou riou?

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@vIGGiou riou doh! Totally forgot the pic you posted...
In case you don't like them, you can send them to me  

[vIGGiou riou]

10 hours ago, Maynard Friedman said:

Do you mean LHT @vIGGiou riou?

yeah LHT...

[yung_flynn]

My Denime 232 Type II arrived from Celluloid today. Here are the pre-wash measurements:

Size: 42

Pit-to-pit: 23"

Shoulder: 21.5"

Sleeve (shoulder seam to cuff): 27"

Body Length: 26.25"

Some quick photos in the pre-wash state, including fit are below. I will update with post-wash measurements and more detail shots when I get a chance (along with some macro shots of my other jeans hopefully).

 

On 4/17/2024 at 11:09 AM, frank said:

Damn, the patch on my 232 got absolutely toasted after the initial wash/machine dry.

Same thing happened to mine after a machine wash and dry - very warped and jerkied (actually not quite as bad as it looked at first glance)..

Edited May 2 by yung_flynn

[yung_flynn]

Here is the 232 post wash and dry. Fabric is still very stiff and relatively smooth with a small amount of coarseness by hand. Color has a grey cast. Size is 42.

Pit-to-pit: 21.8" (5% shrinkage)

Shoulders: 19" (12% shrinkage)

Sleeve (shoulder seam to cuff): 25.25" (7% shrinkage)

Length (back collar to hem): 24.2" (8% shrinkage)

Sleeve length here makes me question whether I could make the TCB No.2 jacket work with 1.5-2" shorter half shoulder + sleeve length

Edited May 3 by yung_flynn

[vIGGiou riou]

my Denime 220A involved to IIY4 - 4 months

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@vIGGiou riou coming along very nice!

@yung_flynnthe jacket looks great! Quite short, isnt it? At least compared to the old Type2 I have. 

[yung_flynn]

7 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

the jacket looks great! Quite short, isnt it? At least compared to the old Type2 I have. 

Thanks! I really like the fit - almost all measurements turned out to be almost exactly what I would have listed as my ideal post-shrink. The 232 is definitely not for the large chested since this is the biggest size and I'm only a 38-40" chest. Length is a bit short on me, but that's because I'm pretty tall (which also often makes pants rise seem low on me too) - jacket still covers the yoke though. Length is very comparable to older WH 2002xx (not sure about the new 1960 version) in same size and pretty close to other high fidelity Type 2 repros that I looked at. I'm not sure if the denim is the same as the 220a or as the upcoming 50s pair. Regardless it seems like it will be a very fast fader like the 220a - hard and rigid creases set in almost instantly

[yung_flynn]

I kind of like this table graphic that Denime made, including some of their new models. The auto translation of the description is a bit rough though. I feel like they are trending into Warehouse-style nomenclature, which I find a bit confusing. Most everything is some variation of lot 232 or 233. https://www.instagram.com/p/C7eeN6pv2I-/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link&igsh=MzRlODBiNWFlZA==

[Alec Leamas]

Don't know if they're actually a new release or not but Lot 224 in Ecru / mother cotton has just appeared on Warehouse's own online store: https://www.ware-house.co.jp/?pid=179513015

I also spotted that Bears and a few other places have a full restock of 220a, wondering if all these stirrings are pointing towards imminent release of the new Lot 232's! I hope so!

[yung_flynn]

The graphic that Denime released actually confuses me the more that I look at it. Nearly every jean model in it is labelled 232. The 15.5 oz weight and purple selvedge for the 220a in the translated write-up is different than the 14.25 oz and yellow selvedge in the previous run (and different from the Warehouse and Bears restock description).

@Alec Leamas The 224 ecru description calls out them being part of the XX series. I wonder if they are the pair in the 3rd yellow column labeled as 232. The description makes the ecru 224 sound like the natural version of their new XX denim which sounds consistent with their chart

[cheapmuthafukr]

Got my first pair of Denime

[beautiful_FrEaK]

3 hours ago, yung_flynn said:

The graphic that Denime released actually confuses me the more that I look at it. Nearly every jean model in it is labelled 232. The 15.5 oz weight and purple selvedge for the 220a in the translated write-up is different than the 14.25 oz and yellow selvedge in the previous run (and different from the Warehouse and Bears restock description).

@Alec Leamas The 224 ecru description calls out them being part of the XX series. I wonder if they are the pair in the 3rd yellow column labeled as 232. The description makes the ecru 224 sound like the natural version of their new XX denim which sounds consistent with their chart

Yeah the whole chart is strange. The Basic (XX denim) was introduced with 14.5 oz denim. Now it is stated as 15.5 oz. Also the denim of all 3 basic models is different. The charts suggests otherwise. 

The names of the new models were first stated as 220(1947) and 220(1954) and so on.

The Ishikawadai spinning machine is also quite trendy right now. SDA and Oni already advertised with it. Most likely it was already used for many years by many brands and they just looked for something new to rave about 😉

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

Could the weight discrepancy just be between raw and one wash? Denime’s XX denim is 14.5 oz raw - so that would be about 15.5-16 oz after a wash I’d imagine. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Very well possible!
Athough the denim doesn't feel as thick. I think it isn't the wisest move to switch their labelling now.
Bears has them still listed as 14.5oz (raw) which will shrink to 15.9oz. So they just put the 10% shrinkage on top.

[vIGGiou riou]

5 months in....