Denime

[obama]

@blooming thanks for sharing. Looking forward to the fit pic. Are yours 220a and 221 both in W32?  Btw, did you find the 221 fit larger than the 220a in same size?

[blooming]

@obama np! My 220a and 221 are both w31. And yeah, the waist of the 220a didn't shrink quite as much as the 221 in the same size. 

The denim for the 224 is different from both. Really thick twill lines and visually slubbier after the first wash (warm machine wash on gentle, no detergent).

[obama]

Was thinking to get the same size as my 220a/221 (which is w32), look like I can get a w31. 
The fabric looks promising! Enjoy.
 

[Geeman]

Interested in seeing what the shrinkage is like in the 224. 

[blooming]

47 minutes ago, Geeman said:

Interested in seeing what the shrinkage is like in the 224. 

Mine shrunk tag size (30”) in the waist, and are at 32.5” in length, so pretty close to tag size there as well.

[Geeman]

What did you get through the thigh knee hem? 

 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

13 hours ago, blooming said:

My 220a and 221 are both w31. And yeah, the waist of the 220a didn't shrink quite as much as the 221 in the same size. 

Huh, wasn't it the other way around? The 221 barely shrank?

[blooming]

It was my 220 that didn’t shrink as much, they ended up about half an inch above tag size. The 221 shrank to exactly tag size, so it’s negligibly the same.

 

@Geeman thigh on 224 for size 30 is just under 12”/30cm after shrinking, hem at 7.5”/19.5cm.

[CharlieMike]

Le 07/12/2023 à 07:09, jsky808080 a déclaré :

quelqu'un a-t-il déjà vérifié le Denime 224 ? j'essaie de choisir entre le Denime 221 et le 224 dans un 33W - mais je n'obtiens pas de mesures cohérentes de la part des détaillants en ligne. par exemple :

- Bears Denime 224 en 33w : dit 30cm/12'' cuisses après un lavage. Les ours montrent que 224 ont des cuisses plus grandes que Denime 221

- Hinoya Denime 224 en 33w : dit 28cm/11.02'' cuisses après un lavage

Pour (trop) contexte : je me sens relativement confiant sur ma taille (je porte généralement des jeans autour de 82cm/32.34'' et ils s'étendent jusqu'à 85cm/33.84''.

Cependant, je suis moins sûr sur les cuisses - les jeans confortables sur moi sont la canne à sucre 1947 Type III étiqueté 32w (seme la cuisse autour de 28.409cm/11.22''. Aussi confortable dans la canne à sucre 1947 étiquetée 33w (se semble être une cuisse de 29 pouces ou environ 11,81'')

désolé pour la surcharge de chiffres, j'ai gâché les jeans tant de fois - j'ai essayé de mettre la main sur mes mesures afin de pouvoir commander en ligne et avoir un ajustement décent. tous les conseils appréciés sur ceux de Denime ! j'ai quitté cette communauté pendant de nombreuses années, et après de nombreux échecs sur la taille. Je suis assez satisfait de mes cannes à sucre actuelles (après avoir gâché d'innombrables comptages complets, entrepôt, etc.) - mais après une paire de 60 ans et les Denime semblent sympas (je sais qu'ils sont différents du 66xx original, mais que pouvez-vous faire)

@jsky808080 Hello, I don't have the 224, I have the 221. The 2 jeans are very similar I think. The 224 seems to have slightly more thigh room. If it helps you here are the measurements of my 221 W33 L30 :

Denime 221 raw / 1 hot wash (40 degrees) / worn 10 days :

Waist: 43,75 cm / 40,5 cm / 42,25 cm

Front rise : 31 cm / 29,5 cm / 29,5 cm

Back rise : 40,5 cm / 39 cm / 40 cm

Cuisse (haut) : 31 cm / 30 cm / 31 cm

Inseam : 84 cm / 78.5 cm / 79 cm

Leg opening : 21 cm / 20 cm / 20 cm

[CharlieMike]

These measurements are interesting (on the Union website):
unionatease.official.ec/

Comparing lot 221 and lot 224 for size W32 L32 One Wash:

221/224 :
Waist: 39,5 cm / 39 cm
Thigh (10 cm from the crotch) : 27,5 cm / 27 cm
Inseam : 83 cm / 81 cm
Leg opening : 21 cm / 20 cm

According to the raw measurements found in the Bears size charts or on the Warehouse website, lot 224 indicates larger measurements than 221. But with washing, 224 seems to shrink much more than lot 221. On arrival when we look at the one wash measurements above, lot 224 seems very close to 221, the cut is almost identical. Does anyone know if the fabric is different between these 2 batches? That would explain the difference in shrinkage.

Edited December 11, 2023 by CharlieMike

[beautiful_FrEaK]

All 3 models should have different denim.

[CharlieMike]

For those interested, Denime is available on Cultizm. And right now -30% on the entire site.
 

https://www.cultizm.com/en/denim/jeans/40015/denime-lot-220a-offset-xx-model-selvedge-indigo-14.5oz

[beautiful_FrEaK]

But Denime (and other brands) is excluded from the sale  

[blooming]

I wore the 224 to band practice last night, and the outsides of both of my hands were deep blue. Those things shed dye like crazy.

[reallypeacedoff]

So I ended up picking up a 220a pair in 36/32 from Cultizm with the sign up bonus. Worked out to not be too far off Bears (out of stock) price-wise.

[unorthodox]

Guilty Party has a few sizes left of the 220A and the 221. 10% off with the newsletter sign up discount. 

https://www.guiltyparty.co/collections/denime

[Jambon]

Does anyone have an experience of shopping with Rogues via WorldShipping. I preordered a pair of 224 back in May for delivery late December but looks like they’ve been released and my order still sat doing nothing. 
 

Feel Rogued. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Another wash. On the back picture you can clearly see how the indigo stayed in the cuffed/rolled area

[AlientoyWorkmachine]

That denim looks (and fades) so much like the 14.5 oz warehouse pair I have. What weight is it? I am now wondering if how close if not the same the makeup is. 

[Cold Summer]

Awesome work on those b_F! I think that's just about the best-faded pair I've seen from you. I know you enjoy trying lots of different jeans - which is great, I'm sure we can all agree at this point there's no one "right" way to do selvedge denim, etc., and it really comes down to what you enjoy. But this really showcases the magic of what can happen when you stick with a single pair for an extended period of time.

To my eyes it looks like a more aggressively textured version of WH's Banner denim - almost a cross between that, and the 14.5 oz denim from the 800xx. Good stuff.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

9 hours ago, AlientoyWorkmachine said:

That denim looks (and fades) so much like the 14.5 oz warehouse pair I have. What weight is it? I am now wondering if how close if not the same the makeup is. 

You can't deny the Warehouse-influence on these Denime, I agree with you.

[yung_flynn]

6 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

You can't deny the Warehouse-influence on these Denime, I agree with you.

The coin pocket especially caught my eye. My DD-1001xx are not quite faded yet except for the coin pocket which has nearly identical lightning strike fades as your 220a. Different denim though as the DD-1001xx is the 13.5 oz banner denim.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I would believe it has maybe more to do with the position of the coin pocket and where it sits on your body and also how big it is. So rather a Warehouse-construction reason than the used denim?!
With 60s jeans you really get that crazy lightning fade because of the different direction of the denim. Technically, this is also a construction reason  

[beautiful_FrEaK]

10 hours ago, Cold Summer said:

I think that's just about the best-faded pair I've seen from you.

I would agree that these are my best faded pair.
My UES 400T, Samurai S510XX-66II and DenimBridge contest pair were all on a similar fading level. The UES looked great as well  

[jsky808080]

On 12/10/2023 at 10:35 PM, CharlieMike said:

@jsky808080 Hello, I don't have the 224, I have the 221. The 2 jeans are very similar I think. The 224 seems to have slightly more thigh room. If it helps you here are the measurements of my 221 W33 L30 :

Denime 221 raw / 1 hot wash (40 degrees) / worn 10 days :

Waist: 43,75 cm / 40,5 cm / 42,25 cm

Front rise : 31 cm / 29,5 cm / 29,5 cm

Back rise : 40,5 cm / 39 cm / 40 cm

Cuisse (haut) : 31 cm / 30 cm / 31 cm

Inseam : 84 cm / 78.5 cm / 79 cm

Leg opening : 21 cm / 20 cm / 20 cm

Thank you! i think i'm good with the 33w in the Denime 221. The Denime are sold-out on the commonly purchased from ones off Rakuten like Bears. Was there an earlier Denime 221 produced, or are all the Denime 221 from the same time period? I found a couple retailers that still have Denime 221 big e stock  - but their measurmenets seem different from Raiders, Rolling Stone and Stay Blue (retailers on Rakuten)

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/stayblue/denime-07/?variantId=153833

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/rolling-stone/depa-22aw005/

https://item.rakuten.co.jp/rds/denime-07/

anyone bought from the above stores, and would this be the same denime 221 as on Bears etc?

[yung_flynn]

3 hours ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

I would believe it has maybe more to do with the position of the coin pocket and where it sits on your body and also how big it is. So rather a Warehouse-construction reason than the used denim?!
With 60s jeans you really get that crazy lightning fade because of the different direction of the denim. Technically, this is also a construction reason  

I think that you are right about it being a construction feature. I think that the denim direction and maybe the coin pocket placement is key.

The denim direction in the coin pocket vs. the underyling pocket vs. the leg is something that I've never really looked at in any detail before. So I took a peek at stock images of various TCB models, Denime 220a, and my pair of DD-1001xx.

For the TCB 50s, 60s, and Denime 220a, the direction of the coin pocket denim is parallel to the rest of the pocket and both are perpendicular to the rest of the jean. For TCB s40, the coin pocket direction is perpendicular to rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is parallel to the leg (so coin pocket is also perpendicular to the leg). For WH DD-1001xx-1947, coin pocket is perpendicular to the rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is perpendicular to the leg (so coin pocket direction is parallel to leg). I think that this contributes to the exteme lightning fades of the WH - you can even see puckering in the stock photo of the WH 1947 coin pocket. Interestingly, SC 1947 is not the same as WH 1947 though, as the SC 1947 is more like the Denime and TCB 50s/60s. The coin pocket creases/fades for the DD-1001xx-1947 and Denime 220a are both in the same physical direction, but they are opposite directions with respect to the direction of the coin pocket denim though.

Apologies for going super off-track, my curiousity on this point got the best of me.

[blooming]

These are the details we're here for. I'm looking at my OA WW2 pair. The coin pocket and the pocket-bag denim are both the same, perpendicular to the legs, as well. Now I want to go through the rest of my closet to look for this.

[vIGGiou riou]

1 hour ago, yung_flynn said:

I think that you are right about it being a construction feature. I think that the denim direction and maybe the coin pocket placement is key.

The denim direction in the coin pocket vs. the underyling pocket vs. the leg is something that I've never really looked at in any detail before. So I took a peek at stock images of various TCB models, Denime 220a, and my pair of DD-1001xx.

For the TCB 50s, 60s, and Denime 220a, the direction of the coin pocket denim is parallel to the rest of the pocket and both are perpendicular to the rest of the jean. For TCB s40, the coin pocket direction is perpendicular to rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is parallel to the leg (so coin pocket is also perpendicular to the leg). For WH DD-1001xx-1947, coin pocket is perpendicular to the rest of the pocket and the rest of the pocket is perpendicular to the leg (so coin pocket direction is parallel to leg). I think that this contributes to the exteme lightning fades of the WH - you can even see puckering in the stock photo of the WH 1947 coin pocket. Interestingly, SC 1947 is not the same as WH 1947 though, as the SC 1947 is more like the Denime and TCB 50s/60s. The coin pocket creases/fades for the DD-1001xx-1947 and Denime 220a are both in the same physical direction, but they are opposite directions with respect to the direction of the coin pocket denim though.

Apologies for going super off-track, my curiousity on this point got the best of me.

Hi flynn...

would be great if your perfect description will be presented also in photos... really it would be interesting...

[yung_flynn]

2 hours ago, vIGGiou riou said:

Hi flynn...

would be great if your perfect description will be presented also in photos... really it would be interesting...

Denime Lot 220A (from Son of a Stag)

Denime 220a from BF - zoom-in of coin pocket

TCB 60s (from Redcast)

TCB 50s (Redcast) - I checked my own pair and the photo is true to life

TCB s40 (Redcast)

Sugarcane 1947 (Redcast)

Warehouse DD-1001xx 1947 (Son of a Stag) - even the stock photo shows big creases on the pocket coin pocket. This is clearly an outlier from all the others that I scanned. The triply crossed directions from coin pocket to pocket bag to leg probably creates a huge amount of friction which is how even a factory wash gives such pronounced creasing in that region.

Standard run Warehouse 1001xx (SoaS) - directions are actually different than the DD version. The coin pocket denim is parallel to the main pocket bag denim and both are perpendicular to the leg. The stock photo doesn't show anything like the puckering/creasing/lightning of the DD model either. Both use Banner denim so that feature must be related to the non-denim construction aspects.

WH DD-1001xx 1947 (my own pair) - true to the stock photos; lightning/creases accentuated by a couple more washes and much more faded than the rest of the denim; slightly different shape than BF's but they go in a roughly similar direction despite the denim direction of the coin pocket being reversed compared to 220a

 

 

Edited December 18, 2023 by yung_flynn

[yung_flynn]

Vintage Lee's also seem to be interesting - the denim for the coin pocket, main pocket bag, and leg all share the same direction which none of the Levi repros that I found share.

RRL Limited Edition High Slim Rigid Black - my own pair shared in Leepro thread; not a strict repro by any means but the details are shared by the WH leepro

Warehouse 1002 Cowboy Pants (Clutch Cafe stock photo)