True Levis copies

[rloud175]

As a blue collar working American denim guy, I really strive for that perfect pair of japanese selvedge that is as close to a pair of 60 year old Levis as possible. I know some of the small brands in Japan will custom stitch the levis arcs on the pockets for you. I was wondering which companies make the closest levis repro and which ones are willing to stitch the arcs on?

[rloud175]

Also, im basing this mostly on the cut of the jeans and not so much the denim. Alot of "repros" seem to be lower rise or slimmer with a shorter button fly than thw originals. In my opinion nothing looks as good as the originals but just seeing how close I can get without dropping $3000.

[nycsurfer530]

i would check out TCB. Inoue doesn't make a pair of jeans unless he has an original to base his repo off of. And you can't beat the price!

Edited March 31, 2016 by nycsurfer530

[Sugar Mountain]

Warehouse and Sugar Cane would also be good brands to check out.

[cool_hand]

If you can find them: Sugar Cane 1947 deadstock, when they still had the distressed sewn arc and red tab.

[Paul T]

TCB are almost certainly the best Japanese repro; the puckering, train-tracks etc are the most convincing and shade out Sugar Cane, who also have a different interpretation of a 50s-style cut. SC are still great if you can pick them up cheap, but TCB is a much smaller boutique concern - check out the Happy Jeans thread for some worn-in examples.

 

You should check out LVC's 50s repros too; they don't train-track on the outer seam like the TCB, and don't have the rayon red tag; also they use poly cotton stitching which doesn't fade as nicely - but you get the arcuates, and denim made in the mill, overseen by the same woman, that made Levi's denim in the 50s. The fabric in particular is fantastic. If I get chance I'll post a comparison photo.

 

I don't know any Japanese companies that would sew on Levi's arcuates - although Full Count arcuates can be altered to mimic them, they are better for updated, 60s-style cuts.

[Iron Horse]

I don't know any Japanese companies that would sew on Levi's arcuates - although Full Count arcuates can be altered to mimic them, they are better for updated, 60s-style cuts.

 

Double Volante might do it if one asks nicely, I imagine, since he does custom orders.

 

Certain Warehouse models (1001sxx) with some unpicking mimic the Levi's arcs, and give you a red tab, they just have a short inseam. 

[Flash]

Conners Sewing Factory would make it pretty high up this list , the garment studio prides itself i making period correct repro's using jeans from Mr Yawara Miura's extensive vintage collection as reference . would kill for a pair myself but they are made in really small runs and most if not all are sold domestically ( in Japan ) through pre orders  

[Maynard Friedman]

If you want a red tab and Levi's-esque arcs:

LVC

Samurai

Full Count

Warehouse (some models)

Old Sugar Cane 47s (if you can find them)

Freewheelers

plus various other small Japanese brands I assume.

[Dr Feelgood]

Full Count maybe can be good choice