Denim World Championship - SuFu Division

[Max Power]

I try to.I am at the 6th or 7th wear now...I never like the fit of new Jeans, they need to mould to your body and shrink to size.

[mange]

Signed up for the Super heavy weight with Kamikaze Attack 24oz. But then I saw the Jelado 55 Denim from Nokipple (fantastic service and help on sizing) and wanted to try out something more retro, so I signed up for Lightweight as well.

 

Really not used to either the light (14oz) weight or the very loose fit. 

 

Here is the pre soak pics for Jelado 55:

 

 

 

 

Went for Megatron's advice and threw the in the washer for 60 deg C and a hot tumble dry to get maximal shrinkage. (even though Mega maybe didn't mean to go that hot). The fit got better and they a really comfortable but I am still unused to the fit.

 

Here is the post soak pics for Jelado 55:

 

 

 

 

 

 

[mange]

And here is the pics for my Kamikaze Attack 24oz, a much slimmer fit.

 

Pre soak:

 

 

 

 

And traditional soaking with a lot of lint coming loose:

 

 

And post soak of the Kamikazes:

 

 

 

 

 

Sorry for the long post 

[Megatron1505]

Both fits look spot on to the style of the jeans. The 55 cut takes some getting used to, but you have a good build for it.....I just looked even fatter 

[Megatron1505]

http://denimworldchampionship.com/dwc-faq/

[karanimal]

How do i know what the weight of my jeans will be post soak? I'm assuming that my flat head 14.5oz jeans will be over 15oz after a hot soak, is there a measuring technique for this? 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

^cut out a square yard of your denim and put in on a scale

 

Or if you have cut offs from hemming, you can do it with a square inch of fabric and extrapolate.

 

Or you just estimate by checking the shrinking rate. Say the denim shrinks 10%, it is a consent that the weigh will increase by 10%. Meaning for your 14,5oz denim and 10% shrinkage = nearly 16oz post wash

[setterman]

How do i know what the weight of my jeans will be post soak? I'm assuming that my flat head 14.5oz jeans will be over 15oz after a hot soak, is there a measuring technique for this? 

 

There isn't, that's why I assumed the weight classes were raw weight.  

 

1.5 oz increase in weight post wash is a safe assumption though.  So basically any un-sanforized denim weighing 13.5 oz to 14.9 oz when raw will be middle weight instead of lightweight. 

[Foxy2]

Like BF said, if you have cut-offs you can measure/weight them...

(I did that a while ago with slightly more professional equipment in the RJB thread - just go a few pages back.)

Knowing the raw weight and shrinkage helps as well, but take into account the shrinkage in weft and warp (usually, they are different in value) to estimate the total shrinkage.

[Cold Summer]

Threw on my DWC garb today - I love the fit on this shirt, it's the best-fitting shirt I own.  The only way my other FH shirts could be better is if they were all cut like this one.  Anyway, the shirt and jeans have a near-identical texture, but the color's a little different - the shirt has a darker, more purpley hue, while the jeans are a bit turquoise in comparison.  I'm really interested in seeing the differences in denim evo as I wear them together.  

 

[the spirit]

^cut out a square yard of your denim and put in on a scale

 

Or if you have cut offs from hemming, you can do it with a square inch of fabric and extrapolate.

 

Or you just estimate by checking the shrinking rate. Say the denim shrinks 10%, it is a consent that the weigh will increase by 10%. Meaning for your 14,5oz denim and 10% shrinkage = nearly 16oz post wash

Not so fast! 

 

If we want to get technical: shrinkage is typically given as percentage change in linear measurement while weight is given per unit area.  This means you need to divide the denim weight by the new AREA of the shrunken fabric to give you the new weight.  So for example, if your denim is 14.5oz and you get 10% shrinkage, you'd need to do this:

 

14.5oz / (0.9 x 0.9) = 17.9oz*

 

I believe the difference is much larger than most people expect.  (What it also means is is that those 22 or whatever ounce sanforized IH jeans, while badass indeed, are not quite as badass as you may think, relative to other "lesser" weight raw jeans).

 

(*this is a correction from my previously flawed math!!! - the change is even bigger than I thought!)

 

---

 

On other news, I'm not just lurking here to show off my mad math skills - I'm actually considering doing this competition thing.  Been eyeballing some Joe Mccoys (991xh).  Gonna see if they'll work for me.  Wasn't planning on resting my FC's at this point, but maybe...

Edited March 2, 2015 by the spirit

[louisbosco]

i feel this is getting way to complicated. why worry about which division/category you're in. just wear em and enjoy the process!

[Foxy2]

Not so fast! 

 

If we want to get technical: shrinkage is typically given as percentage change in linear measurement while weight is given per unit area.  This means you need to divide the denim weight by the new AREA of the shrunken fabric to give you the new weight.  So for example, if your denim is 14.5oz and you get 10% shrinkage, you'd need to do this:

 

14.5oz / (0.9 x 0.9) = 17.9oz*

 

I believe the difference is much larger than most people expect.  (What it also means is is that those 22 or whatever ounce sanforized IH jeans, while badass indeed, are not quite as badass as you may think, relative to other "lesser" weight raw jeans).

 

(*this is a correction from my previously flawed math!!! - the change is even bigger than I thought!)

 

---

 

On other news, I'm not just lurking here to show off my mad math skills - I'm actually considering doing this competition thing.  Been eyeballing some Joe Mccoys (991xh).  Gonna see if they'll work for me.  Wasn't planning on resting my FC's at this point, but maybe...

The math is right, like I said above.

Typical shrinkage is between 4-6% for weft and warp individually - the combined shrinkage can easily sum up to 10% or slightly more.

20% in total shrinkage would be rather unusual, though...

[FLDenim211]

I want to enter, as I haven't bee in a denim comp before, but... I don't know what to enter in yet. 

 

I have a couple of jeans in mind that I could wear in the comp, but undecided. 16oz? 25oz? For to wear the same pair year round, somewhere around 18-20oz would be ideal. It get cold in the winter and hot in the summer in the Rockies.

 

I'm seriously thinking about the tux, but I'd do a jacket instead of a shirt. I could commit to a jeans and a denim jacket for two years, but I'd have a hard time wearing just one shirt for that long. 

 

And, if I can get some boots sorted, I'd enter the boot division too. 

 

to be continued... 

 

Personally if its a matter of picking something with year-round comfort go with something between 15-18, just my vote.  I can't really press you to hard on that since I am submitting myself to another 2 years of Heavyweight after complaining that I would never do it again in the Florida weather.

[Max Power]

I'm getting more and more confused...Wouldn't it have been easier to use the indicated weight for the weight classes? that's the only information that is undoubtable and available - or should we all now calculate on our own? I will change your class in this thread of course, when you are in the wrong section.

Edited March 3, 2015 by Max Power

[garden gnomes in space]

fucking mange coming through with some Jelado.  really interested in following the progression of those, as they are very under-represented.  

[Megatron1505]

Most manufacturers publish a pre a post soak weight, but as Louis said, the important thing is wearing and enjoying rather than getting hung up on being super exact on the weight.

As a rule of thumb if people add 2oz to the published raw weight and select their category based on that, I think we will be fine.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

^^^ I am kinda with Max. Just take the weight that is advertised by the brand and stick with it.

 

I agree with you Gavin (and with Louis): just wear and enjoy. But what is if you have some Flathead 3001 in 2 different categories. Always remember, there is money involved and money to win. So it is likely that some take it very serious (although legal actions are quite unlikely )

[Megatron1505]

Ha ha, if people want to take it that seriously because of financial reasons then they are probably better off at the Bookmakers or in Vegas.

The spirit of this, and previous, contests has always been about people having fun through a shared experience.

[mpukas]

@MegaGav - forgive me for being thick, but can you clarify the tux "no rotation" rule? 

 

i.e. - if I'm wearing 20oz whatever jeans in the tux division, does no rotation mean I cannot wear any other jeans, period? or does it mean I cannot enter any other jeans in any other divisions? 

 

Similarly with shirt/jacket - does no rotation mean I cannot wear any other button front shirt, period? Or does it mean I cannot wear any other denim shirt (or jacket)?

 

Also - just curious - are there bonus points points if one does a Super Tux - jeans, shirt and jacket? What about extra bonus points for all the same brand? LOL Cheers! mpp

[mpukas]

@mange - what size are your Jelado? JMHO, but I think you could have sized down one. I get that they're supposed to be a fuller fit, but they look really big on you, and I bet they'll stretch out with wear. 

[mpukas]

Personally if its a matter of picking something with year-round comfort go with something between 15-18, just my vote.  I can't really press you to hard on that since I am submitting myself to another 2 years of Heavyweight after complaining that I would never do it again in the Florida weather.

heavyweights in FL??? Year round??? (well, it's not like there's much change in season there anyway - just kidding). Your'e mad!!! 

 

BTW - w/ the 21/23 oz jeans you're wearing, and the recent discussion about unsanforized denim increasing in weight when washed/soaked, shouldn't you be in the super heavyweight division, not heavyweight division? 

 

Yeah, CO is s bit cooler year round than FL, that's why I think I could swing a 20oz year round. Depends on the weave too. Last year I wore my Samurai 25oz until July 2nd. Wore them in SoCal for a week and half in May too, and I was OK. I do believe you become acclimatized. After I wore lighter weight denim in the summer, even in the fall the 25oz felt hot for a while. 

[mpukas]

Looks like I'm gonna do the boot champs. 

 

I sold my Chip x Role Club v1.0. 

 

Miraculously, I found one - JUST ONE - other pair of cordovan in the size I was looking for. The 1901Mxx engineer boot is currently not in production, and couldn't find the size I wanted anywhere (except on Rakuten - that was a back-up plan). 

 

Sent them off to Brian at Role Club today for Chippewa x Role Club 1901M49 Engineer Boots v2.0. Can't wait to get those amnesty wears in! 

[Megatron1505]

No rotation within the contest is all that means dude, I can't police what people on the other side of the world wear in their free time ha ha.

Great ideas on the super tux and branded tux, maybe next time :-)

[mange]

mpukas - the Jelado Denim is a size 33 (my normal size would be 31) and you are probably right that I could have pulled off a size 31. The denim is quite soft and stretchy but I was worried that they would be uncomfortable to stretch due to the higher rise. As it is now they are very comfortable (and actually fits perfectly in the waist without stretching) and they are growing on me, but as you say, they are big in the legs and the fit needs some time getting used to.

[Max Power]

^Nevertheless, I like the fit on you and have rarely seem that crazy shrinkage on any pair.

[the spirit]

i feel this is getting way to complicated. why worry about which division/category you're in. just wear em and enjoy the process!

[the spirit]

Too complicated? Perhaps, ha ha! I mean who'd think to take something as basic as jeans and scrutinize every last detail through hours upon years of fine-point discussion, comparison, selfie sharing, etc.? I can't think of a group of people who would do such a thing, can you?

[Bobbo]

mpukas - the Jelado Denim is a size 33 (my normal size would be 31) and you are probably right that I could have pulled off a size 31. The denim is quite soft and stretchy but I was worried that they would be uncomfortable to stretch due to the higher rise. As it is now they are very comfortable (and actually fits perfectly in the waist without stretching) and they are growing on me, but as you say, they are big in the legs and the fit needs some time getting used to.

I think they fit you very well. Sure you could have sized down but then it would no longer be a proper '50s cut. It took me a little while to get used to proper straight cuts too but now that's all I ever wear. So damn comfortable and a classic look that works great both with chucks and boots.

[setterman]

I'm getting more and more confused...Wouldn't it have been easier to use the indicated weight for the weight classes? 

 

Yes since that's the only known number and the only number we speak of when we have a conversation here (or anywhere else online that I'm aware of) it would make perfect sense to use that one.

 

I'm not trying to make things complicated or take the fun out of things, and I don't care what class my jeans end up in as long as it's the one the contest creators want them in.  I just want to be aware of the rules, and follow them. The last contest I was in, after a two year investment of time the rules were waived in the final judging.  It left a bad taste in my mouth and I've avoided contests since.    

Edited March 3, 2015 by setterman