Shoes that look better with age...

[LeicaLad]

I cannot believe the amount of mind-time (brain space, day-dreaming, day-wasting, whatever) that has gone into consideration(s) of the LeatherSoul order options. I do NOT feel good that the latest group order has, as Familyman so nicely puts it, “gone pear shaped.†I really think it’s a great thing to do group orders, the modest savings being only the smallest part of the collective pleasure. BUT.. .. Just how much do I need a pair of special order shell cordovan Aldens? Really? They are so really good looking, but do I need to order such shoes while I’m in the mountains of Pakistan?

Well, to get a bit of perspective on this question, I spent the last couple days up in Mansehra, which is the District Office township near to the earthquake zone in northwest Pakistan. It’s been rainy this past week, so it was totally muddy. Thus, I did get a chance to muck through trails of gooey mud and puddles of very questionable content. Nice way to break in my brand new Genson Ilkley boots, eh?

While I was there, I popped in on a Burmese friend who is the head of the WHO (World Health Org.) office in that area. The setting includes multiple tarp-&-tent-city camps of people living rough as they come through their second winter season since the big earthquakes destroyed their homes October 8, 2005. Most of these people have very basic foot protection. Some even have shoes. Let’s just say that, with those new English brogue boots, I felt like I was wearing black oxfords with tennis whites at a funeral. If I was making a sartorial statement, let’s say it was a footwear version of “let them eat cake.†(Or, possibly: “There goes yet another rich journalist coming to make a story about the interminable suffering of the poor.â€)

I’ll keep this short. Let’s just say that, suddenly, the idea of those beautiful cigar shell cordovan boots with leather soles doesn’t seem very practically. Gawd knows they ARE beautiful, and I would really like a pair, BUT. . . me thinks I will put off that order until a later date. Anyway, I am still doing guesswork on exact sizing on Alden shoes. If I can only resist until I get back to the US to visit sometime later this coming summer. I wonder.

I will shortly be posting my musings on my latest –two- new pair of boots: the aforementioned Grenson Ilkley boots, and a new pair of Alden 307 work boots.

The Alden boots came as an E-prey surprise. I thought I had purchased a pair of “Dress Chukkas from the Bootmaker Series.†You know the ones. I mean, that IS what the auction listing said. When they arrived, however, they were something very different. BUT, I got ‘em cheap, sending them back seemed such a hassle, and it wouldn’t bring the other boots. Plus, the seller was selling off NOS for a charity, so I simply accepted them. These are on the CDI last, so pretty useless for guessing fit with other Alden lasts. But, all that said, they’re pretty interesting casual boots. Anyway, those musings are still to be written.

The question for the day. To the Boot Men of SuFu (Miz, FamilyMan, GregNYC, Skalogre, and you others with so many cool boots):

IF you had to pick only one or two pair of your boots based entirely on comfort for a really long day of walking (or, say, a couple weeks on the Appalachian Trail), which boots would they be?

Yes, it’s a sub-species of your favorites. Humor me, please. For the moment, I’m curious which boots actually feel the best to wear. We can return to the “which boots really look the coolest?†-- a totally valid and very satisfying question, of course -- later.

Musings on the new Grenson Ilkley boots shortly.

[familyman]

I'll have to see though... dunno if I should have 2 cigar Alden boots... Thoughts?

It's likely going to happen to me. My wife just smiled and shook her head and laughed at me.

[familyman]

IF you had to pick only one or two pair of your boots based entirely on comfort for a really long day of walking (or, say, a couple weeks on the Appalachian Trail), which boots would they be?

The first pair would be my Russells. They're not attractive the same way that my Aldens are attractive but they are made to fit my feet and they do that perfectly. Top notch materials and construction and lots of options when ordering to get a boot set up just like you want it. They're my go to boots when it's wet or when I'm heading to the woods hiking or hunting. They always clean and polish up nicely at the end of the trip. Infinately resoleable and reparable. Unassuing boots, very nice.

For another pair it really depends on where you are in life. It's practical for me to wear a nice leather soled boot at least a couple of days a week so I like to do that. I love my Aldens, I really do. I also want to try some other boots (those grenson's interest me greatly) to get a feel for what's out there but I'm just as likely to get one more pair of Alden cordovan boots first because I'm so incredibly happy with the fit and the construction and the leather that the boots are made of.

For what you're doing, I don't know, you've got different stuff going on for sure. When I'm driving the kids to shool in the minivan this morning I'm going to be more that a bit jealous of your current travels.

EDIT: Ok, the real question, for comfort, hiking it would be my Russells, no question, no other boot I've ever owned (I've owned Montrail and Lowa and several other high end hiking boots) come close.

[mizanation]

thanks leicalad, your reality and the reality of those in pakisatan are much realer than what we experience in the states, i think.

for comfort in the mountains--without consideration of style, i'm gonna be straight with you. timberland makes some of the most comfortable boots you can wear in the mountains. i'm not talking about their construction boots. their well padded hiking boots feel great and will take a beating. i once ran about three miles and afterwards played basketball in a pair of timberlands.

[synthi]

So the Leathersoul situation is looking bleak I really wanted to order a pair of thise wingtip cordo boots. Familyman apologies if you know this already, but AOC are presently taking preorders for the cigar shell indy cordo w/ commando sole. I believe the only difference between these and the LS ones are the sole, I believe the indy's via Tom will feature a double leather sole.

Re. Crockett & Jones, I would heartily recommend them and the Coniston also caught my eye till I saw the Villiers model which isn't listed on their website (the Boots I bought last month also are not featured on their site). In their catalogue they're listed under the 'handgrade' category with the following details: Chestnut antique calf (a gorgeous colour btw), Oak bark sole E fitting on last 337 with sizes 5 - 12 inc. 1/2 sizes. They share a lot of the looks with the Conistons but the last has more of a sharper taper and the leather will be smooth rather than grained so these would be easier to dress up and down. The Villiers also feature a leather sole rather than the Dainite studded sole featured on the Conistons. I can snap a pic of them in the catalogue if you like?

[Superstar]

thinking of getting these

from a US surplusstock here in denmark.. 75$ is a nice deal on these...

[LeicaLad]

Hi Guys!

Thanks for the kind thoughts. I am sorta the odd man out here, but I feel happy to be among others who strive to be the “odd man out†where ever they may be!

Actually, my gig here is one of the most boring I’ve ever had, simply because the security precautions sometimes border on silliness. Waaay too many days are spent under a form of house arrest, ‘cause “intelligence†(sic) suggest some unspecified danger. On the other hand, all next week I’ll be Taliban target practice, as I’ll be up in helicopters taking part in the annual poppy survey along the Pak-Afghan border. :eek:

Thanks for the thoughts on the most comfortable boots. The Russell boots sound really interesting, Familyman. You might post photos, at some point, just ‘cause I’m sure others would join in that discussion, too. I like to have the perspective of others on the full spectrum. Those of you with a range of really fine footgear have a wider perspective (and bigger closets). Even if only vicariously, I really enjoy the show.

All that said, I really do see me getting a pair of Alden cordovan boots. But, I really think I first need to stick my feet into a couple of Aldens on the different lasts: Barrie, Plaza, Hampton, Leydon, Grant (who knows anything about THAT last?). It’s pretty dumb to spend $500+ for shoes with zero knowledge of how they’ll fit. Spend half that amount on Grenson, Trickers, or something equally cool? You bet. So those will be my short-term objectives until I can get into an Alden dealership, sometime / somewhere. In the meantime, as the Grenson Ilkley is a wing tip boot, the cap toe boot is now at the top of my “wish list†(which, itself, is pretty damn long).

Synthi - I think we’d all like to see snaps of the C&J Villiers!

The AoC cigar shell boots are on the Barrie last rather than Plaza. Some people think the Plaza is a nicer last, but what would I know? OTOH, they have the hooks on the upper half instead of all blind eyelets. I rather like the hooks for speed lacing.

Familyman -- I sure wish I could be driving my 9 year-old daughter to school. She & the wife are camped in Bangkok, and I see them only every 3 months. Right now, I’d happily trade! (Could you throw in the boots, too? )

Notes on the Grenson’s forthcoming.. ..

[synthi]

Hey LeicaLad No no I meant the indy's which afaik are always on the trubalance last :confused:

I own C&J model called Skye which is a wingtip boot with a double leather sole, akin to the Trickers Malton but imo an all round nicer model. The last for instance is more elegant to my eye although both are purported to be country boots with a nod to the equestrian lifesyle of the classic British countryside (that I know nothing about!) so I guess they're supposed to be function over form but they're beauties nonetheless. I am in love with the colour.

Believe it or not, just since posting my previous message above, I took the opportunity to take some pics of the Skye's (nice subject to test run the new lens on my DSLR ) so will post asap with a pic of the Villiers from the C&J catalogue.

[LeicaLad]

I'd love to see these. Why don't these show up on any of the C&J catalogs that we can see online (he asked rhetorically)?

On the Aldens: You're right on the Indys. I thought we were talking about the wingtip boots like Familyman has. Those are the ones on the Barrie last.

Cheers!

[skalogre]

LeicaLad, true that you have a unique perspective on all this right now .

Would the cordovan boots really be better functionally than calfskin biits at half the price or will they merely at best last a few montsh longer? Don't know, I don't have any cordovan but I have my suspicions...

Now romping boots for me... if I still had them, the early 1990's British MOD issue combat boots were supremely comfortable and understated (and with a huge tongue gusset) but they were really unsuited to the terrain in Cyprus with the jagged rocks and lack of grass as far as durability was concerned (I actually ended up destroying them while I was doing my conscription, the not as nice local boots I was issued were tougher and better suited). I would assume they would not fare that well in Pakistan either.

The RM Williams would probably be out due to the leather sole I would say although they could work almost anywhere.

Now, my hiking boots would work well I think (don;'t remember what they are right now for some reason). But for proven all around practicality for my situation I think you know what boots I wouild mention

Edit:

The hikers are Vasque - don't remember the model.

[gimmegimme]

I've been noting all the suggestions and info in this thread...but I'm curious to know if a leather sole is preferential to a rubber sole and why? Seems like most charge more for the leather sole (ie Church's), but I dont' know why anyone would want leather when its so slippery and looks like hell after wearing only a few times (which I realize some like the look of I guess).

[skalogre]

I've been noting all the suggestions and info in this thread...but I'm curious to know if a leather sole is preferential to a rubber sole and why? Seems like most charge more for the leather sole (ie Church's), but I dont' know why anyone would want leather when its so slippery and looks like hell after wearing only a few times (which I realize some like the look of I guess).

The look, feel when walking, sound on dry surfaces, sleekness, breathability (although that is rather contested).

[mizanation]

The look, feel when walking, sound on dry surfaces, sleekness, breathability (although that is rather contested).

i actually prefer vibram over leather.

[familyman]

Familyman -- I sure wish I could be driving my 9 year-old daughter to school. She & the wife are camped in Bangkok, and I see them only every 3 months. Right now, I’d happily trade! (Could you throw in the boots, too? )

I knew as soon as I hit the submit button that I was saying a jackassish thing. I quit field work to do the job I have now. Sorry man, I'm an ass.

About the Russells.

They're the Russell Hiker. The only thing I did different than normal was to have the uppers lined to give them a bit more support. If I was doing it again I'd do two things differently.

1. A single vamp boot leaks, it just does. I thought I'd appreciate the lighter weight over the leaking as I'm in Texas. Turns out I'm in wet stuff more than I thought I was. I'd go double (or triple) on the next one.

2. I'd upgrade to the french veal leather. The standard leather is nice but really, the upgrade doesn't cost that much and it's supposed to be a much finer grain. I didn't think I'd be as enamored with polishing them as I am but a nicer leather would polish better.

I've worn them about 100 days since I got them a year ago. They've only see about 15 days of real work hunting or hiking though. Life is pretty easy for them.

[synthi]

Here are my Crockett & Jones Skye which, as reported a few posts ago, I bought as a 29th birthday present for myself around this time last month. The weather in London today is weird, cloudy one minute then bright & sunny the next so apologies for the inconsistent quality:

And the C&J catalogue . .

. . featuring the Villiers

They are part of the Hand Grade collection and cost £345 :eek:

[skalogre]

Here are my Crockett & Jones Skye which, as reported a few posts ago, I bought as a 29th birthday present for myself around this time last month. The weather in London today is weird, cloudy one minute then bright & sunny the next so apologies for the inconsistent quality:

http://www.inbox.demon.co.uk/icw/c&jskye2.jpg

http://www.inbox.demon.co.uk/icw/c&jskye3.jpg

http://www.inbox.demon.co.uk/icw/c&jskye4.jpg

http://www.inbox.demon.co.uk/icw/c&jskye5.jpg

Is the colour really that reddish? I love their patina!

[familyman]

And pictures of my Alden cigar cordovan wingtip boots on the plaza last. Just because I was outside with the camera anyway.

I suck at pictures I think.

[synthi]

Is the colour really that reddish? I love their patina!

I just checked the shoe against the monitor and the colour as shown in the first pic is actual. Strange thing is, on the box they're marked as 'Chestnut Burnished Calf' however, a casual glance through the C&J catalogue indicates that the colour for CBC varies a great deal which would make mail order very procarious or exiting depending on your disposition I guess. The colour on my CBC Skye's for instance seems identical to the Chestnut Antique Calf shown for the Villiers. Hmm :confused:

[LeicaLad]

Man! You gotta LOVE this thread.

notes is whatever order:

First, Familyman you are NOT an ass. Please, no possible sense of offense was even perceived. My reply was with a wink. Yeah, an undertone of serious, but, really, we’re on friendly turf here. I’ve ALWAYS appreciated your posts. If you remember, you and Miz were my reason to sign up here.

Anyway, great photos of the Russell boots. I grew up hunting and fishing in Kansas, so have a real appreciation for an appropriate field boot. I really wonder if my cousins will kick me out if I show up wearing my Grensons! I’ll take note of your advice, too. Good stuff.

Damn fine photos of those Cordovans, too. They are truly beautiful boots. As noted, I’m a little be grateful that the Leathersoul group buy went all pear shaped. (But still open to contributing to the contract on the jerk that screwed the pooch, just on principle.)

Miz: As much as I’ve looked at the AF60, the cap toe shell cordo boot, I’ve wondered whether the Vibram sole detracts too much from it’s dressiness. I’d want these for cutting an unusual figure in high dress, even formal. Hence, I’m still thinking of leather sole for these. Which version do you have of the cap toe boot? (I seem to remember your black ones are cap toe, yes?) But, for most other purposes, I agree that Vibram is great.

For Gimmiegimmie:

The leather soles are really nice on the dance floor or when smooth and elegant are on tap. Some of these dress boots can be worn with blazers and sport coats, but the leather soles are definitely dressier. I agree with Skalogre that good leather soled shoes can be very nice, as long as you’re in control of the general setting.

There are plenty of days for me where commando soles are not needed. The Consulate guys all wear cheap leather bluchers. The management types wear tacky horse-bit-type loafers. The spook boys all wear beat-up light hikers. It’s a real picture of collective American style. The tromping boots are only needed when I escape the cloistered compounds, which ain’t often enough.

The R.M.Williams jodhpur will make it to my wardrobe at some point. (Skal: You GOTTA explain to me how you can wear a 9 in RMW and a 10 in Grensons. I still can’t get my mind around it.)

There’s a pair of RMW jodhpurs going cheap in Eprey right now in size 9G (about 10 in US). They went without bid first time around. Only one bid now with about 7 hours left. See: http://cgi.ebay.com/R-M-WILLIAMS-JODPHER-BOOTS_W0QQitemZ120091105888QQihZ002QQcategoryZ63850QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Synthi: WOW! How interesting that the Skye looks so much like the Ilkley, although it is probably sleeker, plus with the double leather sole. With love and attention that color will probably really get better and better.

This is the catalog photo of the Ilkley:

I gotta write C&J to get a catalog. Like I need the distraction -- or the temptation!

[synthi]

Wow LeicaLad they do bear a striking resemblance eh. Amazing for me to see how the sole alone can dramatically change the look of the shoe. The Skye's are my first pair of 'real' shoes. Familyman has given rise to a new fixation in the shape of those completely gorgeous Alden cordo wingtip boots, I'd love to get a pair of those one day. And a pair of the Villiers too. Might look into male escourting cos I'm damned if I know how I'll pay for all these!

[gimmegimme]

For Gimmiegimmie:

The leather soles are really nice on the dance floor or when smooth and elegant are on tap. Some of these dress boots can be worn with blazers and sport coats, but the leather soles are definitely dressier. I agree with Skalogre that good leather soled shoes can be very nice, as long as you’re in control of the general setting.

By rubber soles I didn't necessarily mean a big clunky sole with inches of grip..but the very thin piece of rubber with a slight grid in it...sorry, should have been more specific!

I wear a pair of Miu Miu chelsea-type boots that I've had for years that have a thin rubber sole...I'd never go back to leather again if I had a choice!

[dave023]

Altough I'm partial to Paraboot www.paraboot.com ( I just love their comfort)

I must admit that I've seen some of the most beautiful shoes in this thread!!!

[mizanation]

leicalad, i have the cap toe boots in #8. updated pics are long overdue, i know...

[superBobo]

Dave, paraboots? you´re partial to Red Wings!

[lowrider]

And pictures of my Alden cigar cordovan wingtip boots on the plaza last. Just because I was outside with the camera anyway.

I suck at pictures I think.

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h124/sethclothes/100_3341.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h124/sethclothes/100_3342.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h124/sethclothes/100_3343.jpg

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h124/sethclothes/100_3344.jpg

I really try not to be a biter but I think I need these boots... Thanks for the pics familyguy!

[Curious_George]

With a couple people talking about the Ilkley I figured I'd snap a few shots of my pair. I've been wearing them since December. The photos make them appear a tiny bit darker than they are, but it's not an extreme difference.

[GregNYC]

Hey Leica,

I totally get where you're coming from about shoes where you currently are. The love of it is part of you, yet it won't fit your circumstances till you return. I've had this same kind of thing many times with my different obsessions and travels to Asia, Europe and Latin America.

The boots I'd recommend would be the 8" Matterhorn waterproof insulated boot. I'll look up the number of mine this evening. Here's a link:

http://www.lapolicegear.com/mame8waleinc.html

Thick waffle Vibram soles. Overall the boot is light, comfortable, never hot on the feet. You can get non-insulated waterproof ones too. What I like most about them is the lace lock between the loops and the speed-lace hooks. So you tighten up the lower portion, then pull tight and the laces lock. in place Then you start the speed lace portion. Matterhorns are the real thing, not wannabees. They have several govt contracts, and the Marines use them. I've had mine for 5 years and during winter, in rain and snow I don't even know I have feet they are so comfortable.

Like you said, they don't fall into the category of looking better with age, they don't give that retro look I usually demand of all my shoes, but they do their job!

Sometimes I like insoles too. Currently I like the Mephisto, made of leather and felt and rubber....

[GregNYC]

Synthi, I'm a big C&J fan too, and know what you're saying about the Dainite soles. I have the Conistons. Sometimes you want the dressy (or in my case the retro) look of a hand-crafted leather sole. So the C&J rep here in NYC told me you can special order them in double-thickness leather sole too. I might do that!

[thelion1856]

hey family man nice pics of those alden cigar cordo wingtips. those look sweet. i have been thinking of going with an alden wingtip but dont know what style or color. could you post pics of you wearing them with some jeans?

[__3xL]

k synthi just fucked my head up with his Crockett & Jones pick up ..

VERY nice ..