66 Diary: LVC vs. SUGAR CANES

[volvo240thebest]

PaoloT

re jeans and brogues, that's the look I'm after. nice and clean silhouette, hem short enough to be proud of the footwear down below!

Cant pull it off with any of my pairs at the moment since my old Edwins are gone with the wind (too destroyed to be worn).

[Mr-Bielby]

Studio D'Artisan D60-199 is a nice cut.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

maybe we should really start a separate '66-Thread instead of deraling this one?!

Just a thought

[Mr-Bielby]

Please do. I be got plenty to post up

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[volvo240thebest]

great idea

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I'll do it when I have some more time (which might be not before weekend)...so if one of our gents is willing to start something earlier, please do!

 

(I'm looking directly at you Hoggy )

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[beautiful_FrEaK]

That is exactly like I would have done it, yes. Maybe some pics for motivation. But yeah, first the details that make '66 model and then a list of representive cuts.

 

I think I did it similarly years ago for the '40s/'50s-cuts

[exaptavist]

.

Edited October 9, 2015 by hoggreaser

[beautiful_FrEaK]

For reference: http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/103392-japanese-50s-cut-repros/

 

Please make it better than I did I just saw I didnÄt include the usual '50s details in my thread... 

[volvo240thebest]

done!

http://supertalk.superfuture.com/index.php/topic/158798-66-type-jeans/

 

BF you set the bar high. i did it quick and dirty but I promise will edit and update with more details soon enough!

[setterman]

^ Funnily I sometimes see the Fullcount 1108 advertized as a '66 cut. Although it is a quite straight leg and according to Setterman, he would qualify it as a '47 cut.

 

That's what it reminds me of, but it's much too slim to be a true late 40s repro.  The 1101 on the other hand, has nearly identical measurements to my LVC '66s.  As Paul mentioned, every '66 repro is making some sorta compromise. Don't know why, it shouldn't be that hard to get right!        

[aho]

The thing is, just as in other decades, there was much fluidity between what was "standard" for Levi's during the 60s into the 70s, all of which can be considered 1966 pairs which is why there's so much variation. I'll have to add some of these details to whatever thread when I get a chance!

[Paul T]

the tooling was very worn by the late '60s; pocket shapes varied hugely, as did other aspects, and it's quite likely the fit varied somewhat between sizes.

[garden gnomes in space]

Volvo, I know you kicked around the idea of the OOE OA02xx... is it off the table?  

 

RE: authenticity of repro cuts...i gave up trying to keep track of what was considered authentic and what was not.  

[volvo240thebest]

not yet Gnome, but it's out of stock either in 36 or 38 (the two only sizes I could consider for OOE). Also to be honest the price of OOE it's a bit over what I am happy to pay for a pair of jeans.

[aho]

^The Ooe's, it should be mentioned, are a early to mid-60's cut at which point the 501 still had hidden rivets, v-stitch, paper patch, and (a return to) centered belt loop, although the pocket rivets inside were nickel in color rather than copper (not sure if Ooe does this?). This is different than what we consider the "66" cut which had all the details we're familiar with such as chain stitch coin pocket, paper patch, #6 top button, etc. etc. which lasted into the 70's.

 

My favorite iteration of 60's jeans is actually the A, S, F rating 501's which I don't believe I've seen a repro for. The SC66's are pretty spot on for the standard route 66 archetype IMO for what it's worth!

[garden gnomes in space]

the rivets are nickel colored Aho

[unionmade]

On 25.12.2010 at 8:29 PM, dr.house said:

I’d like to invite you to my new project (besides the coming ROY-contest):

a comparison between the original 1966 501 repro by LVC and the Sugar Canes 1966 US model, 1st series (with arcs). Cone vs. Japanese Denim.

I own both jeans brand new and I’ll wear them in rotation exactly for, hmm, let’s say 100 times at least to see how both pairs develop within this time. Soaked together, washed together and so on.

For a reference I’ve got my beautiful Denime 66xx, one year old and worn a lot:

The 1966 model is one of the milestones in the history of the 501- the cut is slimmer with tapered legs (some call it ‘carot-shape’) and more modern compared to the older models. Today it’s one of the favorite cuts for us denimheads. Bar tacks instead of hidden rivets, a lower rise and the disappearance of the coin pocket-selvage line are some of the changes compared to it’s predecessors.

LVC 1966

The fabric of the LVC66 is a typical cone denim- flat and clean with a greyish touch, less stiff than the 47’s fabric e.g.

PRESOAK MEASUREMENTS (tagged 32x34”)

Waist 33“

Front Rise 11.5“

Back Rise 15.5”

Upper Thigh 11.5”

Knee 9.5”

Hem 8”

Inseam 32.5”

(all measurements BiG-Style. Right, the inseam is really short in inches, but it isn't too short, at least 4me. Maybe I've grabbed a wrong tagged model?)

SUGAR CANES 1966

The SC1966 is made in the USA from japanese Denim (at least that's what most ppl suggest. BiG says it's from the US, but I really don't think so). The fabric is a 100% Double ring-spun Cotton, lot more irregular, thicker and, yeah, really 'more japanese' than the LVC's.

PRESOAK MEASUREMENTS (tagged 31x34”)

Waist 32“

Front Rise 12“

Back Rise 15.5”

Upper Thigh 12”

Knee 9.5”

Hem 8”

Inseam 35.5”

Note the huge and real square backpockets on both models.

Note the longer yoke of the Canes.

Nearly identical silhouette.

Paper patch on the LVC's...

...and the Canes. I'm not a big friend of this loud "Made in USA"-stamp.

(---)

Great post! When did Sugar Cane remove arcs from their jeans? why and when? Seems all arcs are gone for the 17 collection at least (except the hawaiian version). 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

I think they phased out the arcs from 2007 onwards after the Levi’s lawsuit. You can read a lot about that here on Sufu or other sites.

[mousemouse]

Anyone have experience with the more recent made in japan sc42966? Im going back to sugarcanes after a 2 year break from the brand.