Loopwheeled/Vintage T-Shirts

[Double 0 Soul]

ok, i need to reassess this, as I have a solid foot of height on you.  I dont want to end up with belly shirts, lol

 

Im going to stick my neck on the line and say snake is 5'10" or 6'0" I think its a typo. Unless my Sunday morning bleary eyed view of perspective is way out.

[Foxy2]

I found this interesting, which is a comparison of traditional loopwheel 'Tsuriami-ki' machine and modern circular knitting machine. Perhaps a source of this misrepresentation as they both knit in a circular or loop fashion?

 

http://kanekichi-turi.com/weben/machine/comparison/

Great - that should enable everybody to understand the basic differences in efficiency and machinery!

There are also limitations in terms of what types of knitting structure and effects are possible with these old machines compared to modern circular knit machines.

Now, we only need to get people to understand that tubular knits can be cut open enabling a fully cut 'n' sewn tee (or any other type of garment) construction and not only tubular tees.

The other question that had been raised frequently was regarding the possibility to clearly distinguish between "loopwheeled" and regular knits by just looking at the knits...

[Snake]

Im going to stick my neck on the line and say snake is 5'10" or 6'0" I think its a typo. Unless my Sunday morning bleary eyed view of perspective is way out.

Good catch. I am 5'10". It's a typo.

[Double 0 Soul]

To be honest snake i was more surprised to hear gardens claims of being 6'10"

[Snake]

Now, we only need to get people to understand that tubular knits can be cut open enabling a fully cut 'n' sewn tee (or any other type of garment) construction and not only tubular tees.

The other question that had been raised frequently was regarding the possibility to clearly distinguish between "loopwheeled" and regular knits by just looking at the knits...

I agree. Tezomeya and Flat Head loopwheeled fabrics are on the opposite ends of the spectrum.

Both in feel of the fabric and looks.

[garden gnomes in space]

Good catch. I am 5'10". It's a typo.

haha, I thought as much, but didnt want to assume.  The last time I called out a 5 foot, 42" chested guy...wasnt pretty

[Foxy2]

Tezomeya organic cotton loopwheeled T, grape color.

...

Neck construction. You can see that the inner fabric is much smoother.

...

Just as a reminder - same neck hole binding as for Pure Blue Japan Indigo dyed tees:

Edited May 19, 2013 by Foxy2

[itsbenhere]

I've only had experience with Flat Head and Iron Heart so far, but for me Iron Heart tees definitely are superlative.  Very thick, comfortable, and in my opinion drape fantastically.  I take a medium as I do in almost all Japanese stuff.

 

[Foxy2]

I agree. Tezomeya and Flat Head loopwheeled fabrics are on the opposite ends of the spectrum.

Both in feel of the fabric and looks.

Just to make sure: The Flat Head THC series are not "loopwheeled" - most of their other tees are.

[rmc]

I've only had experience with Flat Head and Iron Heart so far, but for me Iron Heart tees definitely are superlative.  Very thick, comfortable, and in my opinion drape fantastically.  I take a medium as I do in almost all Japanese stuff.

 

Interesting, I thought most preferred FH loopwheeled over IH loopwheeled shirts. Are the IH shirt fabric a lot softer, more comfy to wear or are they pretty close?

[itsbenhere]

Well, to be fair I've only had experience with the THC series but It's supposed to be very very similar to their loopwheeled fabric.  They're both comfortable to wear but I think that IH tees are heavier and drape as a heavier fabric would.  I think Flat Head has a smoother hand but IH is definitely comfortably soft and feels more supple, to me at least.

[S-Town]

^{IH shirts have neck holes that accommodate adult heads.  FH shirts are for the shrunken head dude in Beatlejuice.}

[garden gnomes in space]

I like IH tee's also, but Im getting tired of all heavy weight everything.  the fucking things are like a lead blanket.  Construction and feel are second to none however.  The Flat Head tee's have shoulders that are too wide for my usual 40-42 chest.  Part of the reason, aside from the dye's, that I am interested in the Tenzomeya shirts is because they are a normal weight.  

[louisbosco]

Flathead collar stitching is also one particular point I like. Triple lock stitch if I'm not wrong.

[Snake]

Just to make sure: The Flat Head THC series are not "loopwheeled" - most of their other tees are.

Yes. Thanks for pointing that out. I need to stop drinking while writing.

To clarify, the comparisons I wrote earlier is with THC series since that's the most common type of flathead t-shirt, at least I think they are, maybe not. Comparing FH loopwheeled fabric and Tezomeya, when I say opposite, I mean this: FH loopwheeled fabric is more uniform and heavier. Tezomeya is irregular and lighter weight. The only FH tee I have that's loopwheeled is the FLT-01.

[Broark]

The dying and texture on that Tezomeya tee looks awesome.

Thinking about picking a couple up if I can figure out my sizing.

Japanese sizing always worries me since I'm not the smallest dude.

[Snake]

Size 175

Sleeve length(shoulder to hem): 22.5 cm

Sleeve length(pit to hem): 11 cm

Arm hole: 20cm x 2

[Mich]

 

 

Fit pic

 

Snake, what jeans are you wearing here?

It's a superb fit.

[Snake]

Thanks Mich, It's Rising Sun Blacksmith with loomstate Cone denim.

[Megatron1505]

Top tee shirt tip from me, if you're looking for natural cotton, natural indigo dipped, soft, comfortable, with a neck hole that will not stretch. Check out Indonesia's Bluesville, I have three of their tee's and they are all superb.

[garden gnomes in space]

are they blank tee's Mega?  Loopwheeled?

[Megatron1505]

Nope and nope, been discussing loop wheeled tees this evening, and frankly the comfort, fit and quality of the cotton is waaaay more important to me than whether they were made by wizards, up a mountain in Okayama, using unicorn teeth to loop wheel them.

[garden gnomes in space]

I agree about the fit and comfort.  But if most places want $70 + for a ts hirt, it better damn well be made by a wizard using Unicorn teeth..

 

I found Bluesville, and while some of thier stuff looks great, I cant go for the  graphics that they do.  

[Megatron1505]

A lot of it is very military retro, but I know they have some very interesting natural dyed tees coming through.

The whole unicorn teeth thing, Bluesville dye their stuff by hand, using local craftsmen, in an area with hundreds of years worth of textile craft experience. Just a different unicorn.

[Kyle@TFH]

For what it's worth, I've handled all the different tees Flat Head makes, and the THC ones are by far my favorite.  Both the fabric and neck design are the best of any T-shirt I've ever worn.  Personally, I think loopwheeling makes a bigger difference when it comes to making sweatshirts than T-shirts.

 

Also, the necks on FH tees are small when new because it's designed to stretch to accommodate the size of your neck without stretching out.  Most people take neck stretch for granted because modern tees are usually made with a large percentage of synthetic material in the fabric; making a 100% cotton tee that won't stretch out is actually pretty difficult.  Flat Head does it through a combination of the smaller initially neck hole size, and the triple-stitching technique where two of the stitches are on the neck, and one on the body right beneath the neck.

[Sugar Mountain]

I for one love the collars on TFH tees (both the THC ones and whatever you call the Glory Park versions). It's one of my main concerns with tshirts that they don't have a large neck opening and a broad collar. Nearly impossible to wear anything from anyone else once you've had 'Head!

[Megatron1505]

Bluesville tees have the same tight neck opening.

[the bandanna almanac]

I agree. Tezomeya and Flat Head loopwheeled fabrics are on the opposite ends of the spectrum.

Both in feel of the fabric and looks.

Just wanted to let you know I'll be at Tezomeya tomorrow and Masaaki just wanted to say thanks or sharing his stuff. Also thanks for linking back to me too. Glad you're enjoying your t-shirts. Also that purple one is dye with insect galls.

[the bandanna almanac]

Nope and nope, been discussing loop wheeled tees this evening, and frankly the comfort, fit and quality of the cotton is waaaay more important to me than whether they were made by wizards, up a mountain in Okayama, using unicorn teeth to loop wheel them.

Just wanted to correct one thing. Most of the knitting in Japan is done in Nara and Wakayama, not Okayama.

[rmc]

For what it's worth, I've handled all the different tees Flat Head makes, and the THC ones are by far my favorite.  Both the fabric and neck design are the best of any T-shirt I've ever worn.  Personally, I think loopwheeling makes a bigger difference when it comes to making sweatshirts than T-shirts.

 

Also, the necks on FH tees are small when new because it's designed to stretch to accommodate the size of your neck without stretching out.  Most people take neck stretch for granted because modern tees are usually made with a large percentage of synthetic material in the fabric; making a 100% cotton tee that won't stretch out is actually pretty difficult.  Flat Head does it through a combination of the smaller initially neck hole size, and the triple-stitching technique where two of the stitches are on the neck, and one on the body right beneath the neck.

Since you work for FH, maybe you can answer this. Do you know why they don't make v-necks in size 44-46 like they do in shirts? Also, do the THC series heavy cotton get softer as they age/get washed n worn?