Post your DUCKS!

[davichan]

davichan, the über duck pants imo are the rising sun neustadter pants; if i had the cash for those they would be mine long time ago. They are not cheap (500$) and not exactely slim though

Thanks Slab

good to know, ok, so that looks like the top of the chart on Duck pants if i am to say so... they look nice, and i am sure worth it for some folks, but it would be hard for me to spend more $$$ on Ducks then on my denim..

i am still on the hunt!

my best,

-davichan

[pepper davies]

*

ADH92 that bag looks strangely similar to my own...

*

It's a 15 inch Mailbag by Scott Willis. The only thing I told him specifically was that I wanted Celtic tooling on the shoulder pad. All the other details/leather/etc came from him. You have the one from faith, right?

[oboy_oboy]

Is there a non denim pants thread in superdenim, I've looked and can't find one. As much as this might sounds like an oxymoron it would give people a place to find cords, ducks, chinos, etc. that fit like cuts of jeans they like.

I love this idea, since the only way you can find out about those is by brand, and that assumes you know that Brand X makes a cord/chino/duck pant. Many of the MIJ brands do make those, but it's a pain to track down info by brand thread, or google translate (I just plain don't have time for the latter at all).

Perhaps one is calling....

[devilish]

The opening is 9" on my pair. They don't feel extremely slim, but I only sized down 1. You could definitely size down 2. I purchased mine from Meet Bernard on sale for 45 USD.

http://www.meetbernard.com/shop/catalogue/carhartt/roper_pant/carhartt_brown_rigid

And finally, here's an old fit picture.

Not to contradict you but I'd be very careful with sizing down on Ropers, they have a short top block with very little rise. This can be a quite tight on the 'family jewels' and expose quite a lot of butt crack. Try them on first if at all possible.

[Joseph Hill]

American Apparel has a new duck 'work pant' that look like chinos. Not super heavyweight, but not paper thin either. Plus they're made in the US and 75$. I didn't look too close, but I'd assume they're a modern slim style (judging by the rest of what they make).

[pepper davies]

Not to contradict you but I'd be very careful with sizing down on Ropers, they have a short top block with very little rise. This can be a quite tight on the 'family jewels' and expose quite a lot of butt crack. Try them on first if at all possible.

No, I completely agree with you. I would definitely appreciate more rise, but I don't think it's ever become a situation of indecent exposure. The situation isn't helped by the fact that I'm around 6'3''.

[mikecch]

It's a 15 inch Mailbag by Scott Willis. The only thing I told him specifically was that I wanted Celtic tooling on the shoulder pad. All the other details/leather/etc came from him. You have the one from faith, right?

No, mine was from Scott - I gave him a modified version of faith's 1950s to 1960s design to work with.

Haha, I guess he adopted it into his regular production

http://dontmournorganize.wordpress.com/2010/09/30/postal-repro/

It is a very nice bag!!!

ADH92, could you post up a pic of the tooling on the leather thread, if it's not too much trouble?

I have not had any tooling done by Unlucky, would like to see his skills.

[jigrushable]

I am still confused as to what duck canvas is.

Wikipedia says it is linen canvas, but LVC has those duck trousers which are 100% cotton.

Can someone please post macro shots?

[pepper davies]

Here's a quote from Paul T.

Got the definitive answer today from a fabrics expert.

They are similar fabrics, but duck is designed from the outset to be more watertight. Hence it's a tighter weave, altho in an identical configuration, and the yarn itself is spun tighter: the generally tighter construction means water is more likely to run off.

There is speculation about the derivation of the name, too. For another time...

In my experience Duck has been cotton.

[Paul T]

SNippet from Ralph Tharpe about Cotton Duck. I do have more technical stuff about the weaves used in the Cone duck but it's uncorrected, I'll add if possible. But, for the first time, we can verify that the old legend about early Levi's being made from Sailcloth, is in fact true.

You know there's some Cone cotton duck in the detailing of these jeans. Have you learned much about that fabric since Cone started reproducing it?

I was asking Neil [bell, of Levi's], why do I have to put the selvage line so far from the edge, and he was simply saying, That's the way I want it. Then Michael Harris sent me a scrap he'd found – made exactly like Neil wanted. Brown duck with a black selvage line.. and the selvage line is away and on the outside of the garment. And this is in a scrap from 1870.

I was doing research, in the Callaway Textile Dictionary and elsewhere, looking up the weaves and it referred me to sailcloths. I looked at the sailcloth definition and it said, in the UK the stuff was 24 inches wide, in the US 22 inches, 10oz per linear yard – and there was a line in the fabric that was the guide for sewing the pieces together when making sails. The further the line from the edge, the heavier the product. So without any question, things made from cotton duck with the line further away are Sail Fabrics! It is beautiful! I want to do more research on sailcloth. But can you imagine, in San Francisco in the 1870s, how there would be tons and tons of sailcloth around?

Was Cone making duck at the turn of the century?

Yes they were – although I don't know if they kept the selvage further away like that.

[Sansome1877]

SNippet from Ralph Tharpe about Cotton Duck. I do have more technical stuff about the weaves used in the Cone duck but it's uncorrected, I'll add if possible. But, for the first time, we can verify that the old legend about early Levi's being made from Sailcloth, is in fact true.

You know there's some Cone cotton duck in the detailing of these jeans. Have you learned much about that fabric since Cone started reproducing it?

I was asking Neil [bell, of Levi's], why do I have to put the selvage line so far from the edge, and he was simply saying, That's the way I want it. Then Michael Harris sent me a scrap he'd found – made exactly like Neil wanted. Brown duck with a black selvage line.. and the selvage line is away and on the outside of the garment. And this is in a scrap from 1870.

I was doing research, in the Callaway Textile Dictionary and elsewhere, looking up the weaves and it referred me to sailcloths. I looked at the sailcloth definition and it said, in the UK the stuff was 24 inches wide, in the US 22 inches, 10oz per linear yard – and there was a line in the fabric that was the guide for sewing the pieces together when making sails. The further the line from the edge, the heavier the product. So without any question, things made from cotton duck with the line further away are Sail Fabrics! It is beautiful! I want to do more research on sailcloth. But can you imagine, in San Francisco in the 1870s, how there would be tons and tons of sailcloth around?

Was Cone making duck at the turn of the century?

Yes they were – although I don't know if they kept the selvage further away like that.

Here is an example of the selvage line, being just under an inch away from the edge. This is a pocket from a 1874-76 Levi duck blouse. Great work Paul!! Rnr I don't think that ship sail had a selvage line, I will check it out. I posted some other duck examples on this thread, page 43.

[fardin]

i wish lvc or warehouse would bring out a nice duck blouse, . i'd love to have one insted of a jean jacket. nice with pleads and all

[Dr_Heech]

i wish lvc or warehouse would bring out a nice duck blouse, . i'd love to have one insted of a jean jacket. nice with pleads and all

Fardin,

did you get my pm a few days ago about the Blue highway/Unionville duck type one jacket? I included some pics that Douglas (BH) sent me of the prototype.

Looks awesome, especially with those 111MJ side strap adjusters.

.

[Joseph Hill]

Why would a sailmaker/sailor need a selvedge line to show them where to sew? For all we know, there's just some arbitrary reason for the spacing. Maybe the guy tieing the warps on the loom just used his thumb joint to gauge where to put the line.

[Paul T]

Why would a sailmaker/sailor need a selvedge line to show them where to sew? For all we know, there's just some arbitrary reason for the spacing. Maybe the guy tieing the warps on the loom just used his thumb joint to gauge where to put the line.

Ralph's refernece was a textile manual from the 1940s, and I can't see any reason why it woudn't be accurate - sailcloth would still be in produciton then, or within living memory. A heavier sailcloth would need a wider stitch margin, to avoid the heavier sections ripping.

Very little about the picks etc on the loom would be arbitrary - and iit would all be documented, these fabrics might be Victorain or Edwardian, but companies relied on consistency and repeat business just as much as manufacturers do today.

[lance]

Fardin,

did you get my pm a few days ago about the Blue highway/Unionville duck type one jacket? I included some pics that Douglas (BH) sent me of the prototype.

Looks awesome, especially with those 111MJ side strap adjusters.

.

Dr Heech - Would love to see those pics too. How about posting them for all?

[Dr_Heech]

Ok Lance, here goes -

http://www.bluehighwaydenim.com/Post/321/Cotton-duck-jackets.bh

On a sad note, just had an email from Douglas saying that this prototype will probably not go into production, due to the fact they dont have any more cotton duck ( I replied by asking if they could purchase some more, maybe ask Cone?)

It's a beauty nonetheless!

.

[lance]

^ Thanks Dr Heech, it really is a beauty. Think I'd prefer a regular pointed collar to the round one but love all the other details; especially the leather cinches, donut buttons and patch pockets with rivets. Encourage him to do it!

[Dr_Heech]

^ Thanks Dr Heech, it really is a beauty. Think I'd prefer a regular pointed collar to the round one but love all the other details; especially the leather cinches and patch pockets. Encourage him to do it!

He said they could make me a denim version ( I explained that I'd had several originals pass through my hands, and plenty of repros - settling on the 1934 Lee 101J )

I know what you mean about the collar, but I quite like the period shape.

My only request was that it came with a duck cinch-back like the levi's pleated blouse (He didn't want to change this) and could i go for a custom-fit?

Still, nice to know someone out there is passionate about the early stuff.

.

[devilish]

Someone find them some Duck and quickly! That jacket is so beautiful it has to put into production. I recently talked with Pointer Brand about their duck chore coat and they said they won't be making any more of those because they can't get the fabric either. Is duck going to disappear? Have Carhartt bought it all up?

[smittybat]

I think the problem is that most of duck manufacturing has moved offshore and what's left is expensive.

[SLAB]

seriously, that duck jacket is amazingly beautiful; they need to find some other high quality duck fabric and bring it into production. Its exactely what i am looking for

[djarrow]

FYI... I'm selling a Levi's 201 Red Brick Canvas pants (34x31).

http://www.superfuture.com/supertalk/showthread.php?t=254237

[rnrswitch]

Rising sun Duck Ranch Jacket.

[djarrow]

Nice pick-up with the duck ranch jacket. Love the button RS engraving.

I'm waiting on the duck worker pants.. will post when I get em.

[grooveholmes]

That cinch and those button details is tops.

[Dr_Heech]

Nice shots rnr, your jacket has some nice detailing, especially the laurel wreath buttons and the rivets.

Like the Lee 101J inspired pocket shapes too. Truly a quality item.

Will look forward to how that cotton duck fades.

Cant quite see from the pic, what is the material reinforcing the waistband - denim?

.

[Bigyen]

Grabbed a pair of SD Ducks in a size 32 from BiG (they just got a new shipment) and am super pleased. The fit is spot on and exactly what I was looking for. The material is like armor-- thicker and tougher then most raw denims I've dealt with. I'm psyched to see what some wear and time does to these

[Biff15]

...NICE!!!

Was looking for a pair of ducks, but they seemed to be sold out everywhere I looked... Glad to know BiG just got a new shipment... Just may have to check these out...

[rnrswitch]

Nice shots rnr, your jacket has some nice detailing, especially the laurel wreath buttons and the rivets.

Like the Lee 101J inspired pocket shapes too. Truly a quality item.

Will look forward to how that cotton duck fades.

Cant quite see from the pic, what is the material reinforcing the waistband - denim?

.

That fabric actually lines the waistband, the cuffs, and the pocket flaps. It is mossy green herringbone fabric, much like the vest posted in this thread.