Belts

[Duke Mantee]

[Duke Mantee]

2x layers of Japanese leather, exotic overlays, real gemstones, steel (both stainless and nickel plated) hardware and a LOT of saddle stitching

[Duke Mantee]

[Duke Mantee]

[Duke Mantee]

[julian-wolf]

7 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

This is a beauty; I’d love one just like it. Are you still taking new commissions these days? Any chance you have more of the hardware around?

[Duke Mantee]

4 hours ago, julian-wolf said:

This is a beauty; I’d love one just like it. Are you still taking new commissions these days? Any chance you have more of the hardware around?

Yep - can do mate. That buckle (set) comes in 1” and 1.25”

[julian-wolf]

@Duke Mantee That’s great news—1 1/4” is always me sweet spot. I’ll shoot you a message later to talk details

[FurnitureMaker]

The photos look great, but I’ve never been able to see an Ace Western Belt  in real life. Does anyone have experience with them?  Positive or negative?

Edited April 16 by FurnitureMaker
Typo

[Duke Mantee]

2 hours ago, FurnitureMaker said:

The photos look great, but I’ve never been able to see an Ace Western Belt  in real life. Does anyone have experience with them?  Positive or negative?

If you want an exact replica of an old Sears or Montgomery Ward et al then they are your guys. 

Not as good as my belts tho’ …

Edited April 16 by Duke Mantee

[FurnitureMaker]

4 hours ago, Duke Mantee said:

 

Not as good as my belts tho’ …

Duke, you use this thread to make sales and to promote your work. Fair enough. Here is my take, basing my judgement from pictures alone (I’ve not seen your belts in person either).

I strongly disagree with you. Your bespoke craftsmanship might have an edge over the mass production approach of Ace. Maybe. Your leather options probably does the most to set you apart, most being of higher quality, I assume.

But, your belts seem sterile to me. Lacking an intangible quality that Ace has in spades. I am so curious about the Ace belts and I don’t have an interest in yours. They are over thought out and fussy. Lacking spontaneity. 

And I haven’t gotten to the second main component of a belt. The buckles. Ace gets their own buckles made to their specs. Hard to compete with that. 

It triggers me to see someone with an obvious conflict of interest put themselves above another maker. If your claim is true, and it might well be, (certainly the opinion of almost everyone on this forum), isn’t it better to have them make the claim so you don’t have to?

All right, I’ve got that off my chest.  If I haven’t completely offended you and you are willing to humor me this bit of advice I’ll end it with this. I encourage you to make a small line of belts that put your talent on full display while showing your personal style. Along with your custom work, it would be cool to see a few signature pieces. 
 

 

[Duke Mantee]

9 hours ago, FurnitureMaker said:

Duke, you use this thread to make sales and to promote your work. Fair enough. Here is my take, basing my judgement from pictures alone (I’ve not seen your belts in person either).

I strongly disagree with you. Your bespoke craftsmanship might have an edge over the mass production approach of Ace. Maybe. Your leather options probably does the most to set you apart, most being of higher quality, I assume.

But, your belts seem sterile to me. Lacking an intangible quality that Ace has in spades. I am so curious about the Ace belts and I don’t have an interest in yours. They are over thought out and fussy. Lacking spontaneity. 

And I haven’t gotten to the second main component of a belt. The buckles. Ace gets their own buckles made to their specs. Hard to compete with that. 

It triggers me to see someone with an obvious conflict of interest put themselves above another maker. If your claim is true, and it might well be, (certainly the opinion of almost everyone on this forum), isn’t it better to have them make the claim so you don’t have to?

All right, I’ve got that off my chest.  If I haven’t completely offended you and you are willing to humor me this bit of advice I’ll end it with this. I encourage you to make a small line of belts that put your talent on full display while showing your personal style. Along with your custom work, it would be cool to see a few signature pieces. 
 

 

I was making a joke … but if you feel better after your broadside then I’ve succeeded even though you didn’t see the humour.

FWIW I would never claim anything I make is better than anything by anyone else, it would be arrogant and most probably false … and on a few occasions I’ve used those beautiful ACE buckles you mention (gotten to know them reasonably well too).

I appreciate your advice on what I should do with my ‘business’ (such as it is) but I’m happy enough making what any interested party asks me to make - won’t be too many more now anyway.

Edited April 17 by Duke Mantee

[Double 0 Soul]

Jesus fkin Christ Duke!.. did you learn nothing from DB?

Not everyone gets it! that's what these are for..

..and if you're still not sure, use some of these

I'm not going to tell you again..

[Broark]

1 hour ago, Duke Mantee said:

won’t be too many more now anyway.

Now now, you can't quit just yet. I still haven't gotten my teacore belt made by you yet!

[Double 0 Soul]

1 minute ago, Broark said:

 

See.. @Broark gets it

[Duke Mantee]

16 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Jesus fkin Christ Duke!.. did you learn nothing from DB?

Not everyone gets it! that's what these are for..

..and if you're still not sure, use some of these

I'm not going to tell you again..

🤣

👆 … that ok mate?

[Duke Mantee]

9 minutes ago, Broark said:

Now now, you can't quit just yet. I still haven't gotten my teacore belt made by you yet!

Have you got new boots that you need this teacore belt to match? 😉 (👈 see, I’m catching on)

[Broark]

Just now, Duke Mantee said:

Have you got new boots that you need this teacore belt to match? 😉 (👈 see, I’m catching on)

I'll have the boots shortly after I have the matching leather jacket.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

6 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Have you got new boots that you need this teacore belt to match? 😉 (👈 see, I’m catching on)

I feel this is directed at me 😮

[Double 0 Soul]

23 minutes ago, Broark said:

Now now, you can't quit just yet.

He's coming out of retirement ..

 

[Duke Mantee]

[Duke Mantee]

3 and half years ago after a fair bit of chat and a lot of encouragement from my mate @Flash I started making belts with some purpose.

The purpose was that I had retired to look after my little girl who has multiple disabilities and in intervening hours I wanted to do something to slow down brain atrophy coupled with the fact that I’d bought a Warehouse belt which transpired to be shit.

Since then, and much to my very genuine surprise, I’ve now made a little over 200 belts … slightly better than 1 belt every week. That’s the extent of my ‘business’.

Each belt is made to the requirements and specifications set out by the customer. Each belt is made entirely by hand - no electrically or manually operated machines whatsoever. Skiving, edge bevelling, burnishing and the like are done according to how I ‘read’ each piece of leather being used. I have never made the same belt twice - some are similar, but respectfully that’s down to the request and invariably there will still be fundamental differences.

Because every belt is different, there is no easy way (or wish) to standardise the process or materials. This also means I cannot easily plan ahead or take advantage of cost savings in ‘bulk’ purchasing.

In terms of the money I ‘make’ from this enterprise - I charge exactly what I pay for any materials and add the honest number hours labour (at UK minimum wage).

If I take a picture of a belt - I’ll normally display it here, and post it on IG (if the owner allows). I guess that can be considered as advertising but I don’t look for new opportunities or sales. If I’m asked, I’m asked, if I’m not then it makes no difference - I’ve just explained that it’s not a source of income that makes any substantive impact on household income, even if it was predictable.

Because Standard Rivet has closed down I can no longer replenish my studs/spots, so my ‘business’ will soon close down … that should be good news to Miho at ACE

But anyway, thank you to everyone who has trusted me with their hard earned, I hope I’ve never let you down.

[ATWM]

@Duke Mantee I’m not sure if you take the same pleasure or interest in making other leather goods, but I am quite happy to own two different bags you’ve made as well, and look forward to using them for some long time or even passing down an old weathered version of one if they make it. And the one simple belt is far and away the nicest one I’ve ever owned, and one that I’m proud to wear when the occasion calls for it. 

Understanding it is not exactly a profitable enterprise for you I very much appreciate the task you’ve set out for yourself, as my son went through a pretty rough journey some years ago that made me have to really revisit my priorities and responsibilities in life. It’s a different situation of course, but it makes the things I’ve gotten from you that little bit much more important. I hope you’ll keep working with leather even if Standard is closed, but if not, I am grateful for having gotten the chance to own some of the thoughtfully made pieces you’ve spent your time on. 

Edited April 17 by ATWM

[Double 0 Soul]

So there is only one place in the world where you can buy your hardwear?

How come? .. where will other leather workers get theirs?

[Duke Mantee]

10 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

So there is only one place in the world where you can buy your hardwear?

How come? .. where will other leather workers get theirs?

Standard Rivet were ‘the’ suppliers - almost right back to the earliest days. There’s another company, SX Industries, who make similar … similar isn’t the same (sizes and specs), plus they’re not geared to tiny business - pretty big minimum orders on stuff you need, but don’t need much of; for example I could buy 1000 spots which would do maybe 4 or 5 belts, but the ring spots (for jewels) are also 1000 min which is closer to 100 belts 🤷‍♂️

Edited April 17 by Duke Mantee

[Duke Mantee]

22 minutes ago, ATWM said:

@Duke Mantee I’m not sure if you take the same pleasure or interest in making other leather goods, but I am quite happy to own two different bags you’ve made as well, and look forward to using them for some long time or even passing down an old weathered version of one if they make it. And the one simple belt is far and away the nicest one I’ve ever owned, and one that I’m proud to wear when the occasion calls for it. 

Understanding it is not exactly a profitable enterprise for you I very much appreciate the task you’ve set out for yourself, as my son went through a pretty rough journey some years ago that made me have to really revisit my priorities and responsibilities in life. It’s a different situation of course, but it makes the things I’ve gotten from you that little bit much more important. I hope you’ll keep working with leather even if Standard is closed, but if not, I am grateful for having gotten the chance to own some of the thoughtfully made pieces you’ve spent your time on. 

Thank you very very much for that

[Double 0 Soul]

10 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Standard Rivet were ‘the’ suppliers - almost right back to the earliest days. There’s another company, SX Industries, who make similar … similar isn’t the same (sizes and specs), plus they’re not geared to tiny business - pretty big minimum orders on stuff you need,but don’t need much of; for example I could buy 1000 spots which would do maybe 4 or 5 belts, but the ring spots (for jewels) are also 1000 min which is closer to 100 belts 🤷‍♂️

Have you spoken to them.. re- a custom order, ie- less units /item but large enough order value to be worthwhile?

.. or maybe a co-op with other leather workers.. surely everyone will feel the pinch and be looking for alternatives.

Do Standard Rivet manufacture the spots or just order them in and sell them on?

Edited April 17 by Double 0 Soul

[Duke Mantee]

3 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Have you spoken to them.. re- a custom order, ie- less units /item but large enough order value to be worthwhile?

.. or maybe a co-op with other leather workers.. surely everyone will feel the pinch and be looking for alternatives.

Yep - and no

But I can’t be arsed pursuing other ‘options’ - as I said, it was never about money. I’ll pass my time with wallets and bags. I enjoy spending the time; it’s a different type of project and the bigger items can take a week or more so you really get your teeth into it 

[Double 0 Soul]

2 minutes ago, Duke Mantee said:

Yep - and no

But I can’t be arsed pursuing other ‘options’ - as I said, it was never about money.

Maybe not, but you're still making something that folks want to buy and if the demand is there and you enjoy making them.. then why not?

[Duke Mantee]

2 minutes ago, Double 0 Soul said:

Maybe not, but you're still making something that folks want to buy and if the demand is there and you enjoy making them.. then why not?

Demand is dying out - nobody wants to buy a sterile, over thought out and fussy belt 😉

 

(see? I’m learning 😄)