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canice

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The sidewall says the max pressure, but that's not necessarily what you have to run. I keep mine at around 90psi most of the time. Figure out what's most comfortable for you with regards to effort you have to put into pedaling and comfort.

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if the kilo tt is in stock, do it. you don't have to worry about learning a ton about parts immediately and for $350, you have a couple extra bills to powder coat it any color you want or you can spray paint it for like $15 and use the rest to upgrade your new whip.

immediate upgrades i would do on those things: tires/tubes, velox rim tape (i don't think they ship with any. you will get flats all the time), pedals (sylvan kit from ben's bike).

other than that, it'll come down to how you want to ride it and the fit - bars, stems, saddles.

QFT! thats why i bought a kilo tt. mine should be delivered today. we all know it comes with shitty components but i think its a good start to learn the basics and stuff.

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The sidewall says the max pressure, but that's not necessarily what you have to run. I keep mine at around 90psi most of the time. Figure out what's most comfortable for you with regards to effort you have to put into pedaling and comfort.

wtf 90psi. i would say dont go below 100 if u plan to ever ride in the street. my front wheel is at 180psi

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ok i gotta post up pics of my kona. i'm back to fixed for a bit as i had some fun ass sprints yesterday and won most of em.

gotta get some drops if i wanna be doing more of them

So people still ride fixed? I thought the hype was gone.
Do you do anything other than bitch about fixed gears? Definitely seems like a case of transference to me.

1234567890

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wtf 90psi. i would say dont go below 100 if u plan to ever ride in the street. my front wheel is at 180psi

Appropriate tire pressure depends a lot on tire size. I ride 700x28s and 180 would make them explode, anything down to 80-85 is fine, though I tend to keep them right at 115.

Just throwing a number out there is kind of useless.

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Appropriate tire pressure depends a lot on tire size. I ride 700x28s and 180 would make them explode, anything down to 80-85 is fine, though I tend to keep them right at 115.

Just throwing a number out there is kind of useless.

it depends on the tire. different tires have different PSIs. my gatorskin sprinter has a lower PSI of 115

omg criticize me criticize me

im back to fixed because i'm currently not lifting heavy since my elbows are hurting

fuck you ethug

u give the best quotes

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Damnit, there is such a lack of good used bikes here. I've been looking for a decent used frame (with useable parts hopefully) for a conversion for a while now, but everything used is like supercycle or sears.

If all i could get was a decent frame and had to buy everything else (tires included) new, should i just go with a new complete? To stay within budget, it'd end up being a steamroller or something if i went completely new.

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In order to check that it would require me to purchase the straps beforehand having had known. Sorry for not trolling the pages in a search that could be so inconsistent on a thread with 864874984096 pages. I'm used to the search option being rather incohesive. I appreciate the response!

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WTF y'alllssssss's's's runnin your tires so hot for? Loving the punishment?

Most rims won't like anything over 115, and that's the high end for heavy fellers with skinny tires.

You can go down to ~85 or so on a clincher before worrying about pinch flats, unless you hit potholes a lot or stairs/curbs a lot.

I use 30-35psi on my cross bike with 32mm tires--granted--for racing. But still, yo, still.

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Can anyone speak to whether this 1990 Trek 330 is worth around $290?

It apparently has new handlebars and has been "recently tuned", so I assume it is in good shape.

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I can't tell what components are on there, and I don't know how good the Trek 330 frame is.

Wait..are those shifters on the stem? Pass.

(FWIW, I got a Titanium Miyata w/ Shimano 600 components for ~$300 off of eBay, so you can do better IMO)

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I can't tell what components are on there, and I don't know how good the Trek 330 frame is.

Wait..are those shifters on the stem? Pass.

(FWIW, I got a Titanium Miyata w/ Shimano 600 components for ~$300 off of eBay, so you can do better IMO)

It's got a Shimano 200 GS gearbox/shifter. According to the 1990 Trek brochure, the frame is a "Tange double butted Cro-moly". I think I saw somewhere that it's a Reynolds 531, but I can't swear by that. Definitely not going to be as light as aluminum (or titanium), but any idea how the quality is?

And why are stem-shifters bad? Are they worse than shift levers mounted on the lower tube?

Wanna sell me your titanium miyata?

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need some guidance....

going to repaint my windsor hour frame from gunmetal matte grey to white...would i need to sand the whole bike down prior to priming it. also what are some quality products (primer, paint, lacquer) to use?

Thanks.

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It's got a Shimano 200 GS gearbox/shifter. According to the 1990 Trek brochure, the frame is a "Tange double butted Cro-moly". I think I saw somewhere that it's a Reynolds 531, but I can't swear by that. Definitely not going to be as light as aluminum (or titanium), but any idea how the quality is?

And why are stem-shifters bad? Are they worse than shift levers mounted on the lower tube?

Wanna sell me your titanium miyata?

No way bro, the Miyata is worth it's weight in gold to me.

Stem shifters are usually a sign of a lower-end bike...

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just ordered the kilo tt from bikesdirect.

I CANNOT FUCKING WAIT! can't remember the last time i was this excited over a purchase.

ahhhh, just got my 53 black in the mail yesterday. the thing is SWEET. my intro to the whole biking world, so i'm pretty satisfied.

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