Little Hand

[MJF9]

I treated myself to a new tux from Little Hand - aka Yuki Murase – so it made sense to open a new thread. 

There has been some chit-chat about Little Hand before elsewhere so he’s not new to Sufu.  I won’t repeat the information already online… see IG and online store.

In Little Hand's own words...

“We make denim products by hand using vintage sewing machines.

I just love old things, so I make them on a vintage sewing machine! It's all my own style!

I’ve never taken any lessons or been taught by anyone, so I just make things however I like!

We enjoy making them, and we hope you enjoy wearing them”

… which all sound good to me...

Yuki hadn’t heard of Sufu before, but he has now… 

[MJF9]

OK, onto the denim…

The glitch edition WW2 set up took my eye, so I pinged Little Hand on Instagram and had some real-time back and forth banter before ordering it. 

It uses his LH7 WW2 denim which is 13.5oz, 14.5oz post wash.  I went large for this one – W36 jeans which shrink down to cW34, and a size 48 jacket as I want to wear layers underneath it and didn’t want to risk the size 46 given the pattern unknowns with any new maker.  It turns out a 46 would have worked really well, but I’m cool with a spacious 48 too. 

Little Hand will do custom lengths so I went for inside leg of 80cm and 61cm jacket length post-wash.  Both came in bang-on target… and he chopped off all the loose ‘glitch’ threads on the jacket for me too

Great service from Yuki throughout – responsive, helpful, really easy to deal with and good English comms.

Anyway, enough words… here’s some pictures…       

[MJF9]

... and the jacket...

[Broark]

Will be following along with this one, I've thought about grabbing a pair of his jeans for some time now.
Glad you took the jump, nice looking tux!

[Dr_Heech]

Was wondering @MJF9 how the Littlehand WW2 blouse compares to the Super collectable SC WW2 blouse?

No rush 😁

[MJF9]

@Dr_Heech which year Doc - 43 or 45 😉😂... will take some side by side pics soon mate

[Dr_Heech]

8 hours ago, MJF9 said:

@Dr_Heech which year Doc - 43 or 45 😉😂... will take some side by side pics soon mate

Not sure which one, just that the new LH blouse reminded me of (one of) your SC WW2 blouses, the one with super wonky pleat stitch boxes.

Also the jeans have something of the TCB 40s about them, with that back pocket and tab placement. 

[scooby]

Jacket looks 10/10

Awesome

[MJF9]

OK then... some before and after washing shots...I could have gone with a size smaller waist and jacket but I have many that sized 'fit' already.  Jeans are super comfy and jacket has space for layers so all good.

I can post measurements later for completeness

Before - Raw before washing

After washing

(Edit.  I've since done a 60C wash which has 'tightened' the jacket up a touch)

Edited June 13 by MJF9

[indigoeagle]

@MJF9Both fits look great. Yeah, the shoulder seams are a bit over the shoulders, but this is a not a formal suit

Interestingly all jackets are now made bigger. I've got e.g. the RMC Zielinski jacket in 42. I recently checked the measurements of the current version. They're much bigger than mine of fifteen years or so ago. Shoulders: 50cm and chest 62cm vs. mine of 47 and 58 resp..
Same with a EG Bedford jacket. 

[scooby]

I love how the jacket is fitting - after a break in and a few washes down the road it’ll be just right

[MJF9]

On 6/6/2026 at 3:54 PM, Dr_Heech said:

Was wondering @MJF9 how the Littlehand WW2 blouse compares to the Super collectable SC WW2 blouse?

No rush 😁

A few pics... LH v SCSC 43... LH is size 48 and bigger than SCSC size 46

LH is the first pic, SCSC 43 follows on all comparison pics

[Dr_Heech]

Wow, almost identical twins separated at birth @MJF9 - maybe copied from the same original S506XX??

Edited June 27 by Dr_Heech

[MJF9]

Very similar Doc.  First time I've looked is in taking the photos.  I can try ask LH about the original it was based on.  The hem stitching is different, and the pocket size is bigger on the LH.  But that aside, yeah agree they are la familia!!  

Edited June 20 by MJF9

[Lorcan]

Yeah seen other examples also probably inspired by the same original - eg. Dad's 1943

vintage jacket appears in this video:

 

 

[CSL]

That 1943 jacket is truly nuts. I had been one of the doubters about the extreme extent of wonkyness in vintage examples but the proof is right there.

Outside of the general sloppy sewing, I wonder if the mismatch in the front panels was due to an assemble line approach where perhaps different workers produced the left and right front panels (i.e. not being able to eyeball the opposite panel while sewing the pleat tacks hence guessing the location)? 

[Lorcan]

23 minutes ago, CSL said:

That 1943 jacket is truly nuts. I had been one of the doubters about the extreme extent of wonkyness in vintage examples but the proof is right there.

Outside of the general sloppy sewing, I wonder if the mismatch in the front panels was due to an assemble line approach where perhaps different workers produced the left and right front panels (i.e. not being able to eyeball the opposite panel while sewing the pleat tacks hence guessing the location)? 

Yeah definitely, although I think the repro makers do like fetishise the rougher sewn examples to the point it potentially misrepresents how common it was.

The slightly different heights of box stitching does seem to appear fairly frequently- nice example on an otherwise less wonky jacket here. Another one where it looks like the top and middle box stitching was super uneven heights (although harder to see as there's stitching missing and Capri's photos are never the best). Your assembly line theory is interesting, I wonder if its maybe also to do with the pleats being added earlier in the sewing process and then by the time the front panels are attached to the yoke and back panel its easier for them to get misaligned even if they started off being measured at the same spacing.

[CSL]

9 hours ago, Lorcan said:

I wonder if its maybe also to do with the pleats being added earlier in the sewing process and then by the time the front panels are attached to the yoke and back panel its easier for them to get misaligned even if they started off being measured at the same spacing.

Yes. Quite possible. Perhaps the only factor that can only be attributed to pure carelessness is when the box stitches are sewn at a slight (or not so slight...) diagonal.  Actually it's a fun little window into humanity. Kinda like looking at cave paintings.

[Dr_Heech]

Don't forget on original S506XX jackets, they were made at one factory going into WW2 and 2 (or possibly 3) coming through by 1945/6.

Alot of untrained/new to the sewing business employees would have surely been a major contributing factor. When you look either side of the USA's involvement in the second world war, you rarely see that poor quality being accepted by QC at the end of the line in found examples. Couple that with peeps who were desperate for workwear during the war effort but unable to get their hands on the garments, the bar was probably severely lowered in order to get clothes on workers bodies.

Just my tuppence worth

Edited June 21 by Dr_Heech
To make sense

[shredwin_206]

@MJF9 what models does he offer? I was chatting with him because I stumbled across Jason Momoa wearing a little hand tux and he told me it’s a custom wide model? 

[MJF9]

@shredwin_206 I also have the wide WW2 model.  He sent me specs for standard and wide.  The extra rise and thigh space won it for me. 

LH will customise his standard dimensions e.g. I had my jacket made to 61cm.

It was the WW2 glitch model that I was chatting with LH about.  I see he's also done '37, '42 with cinch, '22 models, and a chore too.  There's even been some black denim in there.  I never checked if he produces the same years in batch cycles.  He's a friendly guy so I'd just shoot him a question if I wanted a particular repro year.

Are you going to get some?

[shredwin_206]

@MJF9 just researching for future  

[CSL]

It's feeling like this will likely be the direction for the next contest.

[shredwin_206]

@CSL @MJF9 a Little Hand contest could be fun…..might finally get Shredwin in one. 

[Dr_Heech]

14 hours ago, CSL said:

It's feeling like this will likely be the direction for the next contest.

 

10 hours ago, shredwin_206 said:

@CSL @MJF9 a Little Hand contest could be fun…..might finally get Shredwin in one. 

Hey @MJF9 not a bad idea, l may even be up for it mate 👍 

[MJF9]

Gents, I reckon LH would be a great match for a Sufu contest... in the same way that Simo was, and has been, on the WoMCon.  Direct contact with a one-person maker feels the right way to go.  I sent LH the link to this thread on Sufu so he's at least heard about us 👍. 

The WomCon was the first contest I've ever done because I struggle to focus on a single pair of jeans beyond a month or so, so I doubt I'll be in but never say never!!  That said, I'd been chatting with @Broark on this previously and I think he might be up for getting some Sufu ideas flowing and interest checked

[shredwin_206]

[eeejayaich]

I just got a pair from @GF305, and I love the fit and feel of the denim. The lemon yellow stitching is a great touch, too. 

[shredwin_206]

@eeejayaich post some fit shots

[Jared_Lee]

The pair of WWII Wide that I got from @GF305 are already on their way to @shredwin_206. The fit was awful on me. The waist was good, but diapered out around the hips, seat and crotch. The heavier denim didn't help things any. Final takeaway for me - no more WWII jeans. Not my bag.