Slash Overalls

[Broark]

Slash Overalls is a one man brand operating in Shizuoka Japan, and has been operating since around ~2021.
Originally he started offering custom jeans, allowing his customers to pick various details: denim, pocket and yoke shape, pocket bag fabrics, cut, etc.
Most of these jeans were loosely based on different historical eras that we all know and love. However they were not always marketed as strict reproductions, but more creative interpretations.
Many of these had (quite distinct) arcs, which he has since moved away from. Below are a few examples of his earlier offerings ('37, '40s, late 1890s Miner Jeans).

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram)

He also ran a series of "grunge models", which had more irregular sewing features. These might seem haphazard, but as mentioned in his blog post the irregular sewing details are intentional and quite difficult to reproduce.

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

In his pursuit of creating a more accurate repro, he graduated to working directly with denim mills on developing his own fabrics to use.
With this change in production mentality, he stopped offering custom made jeans and began releasing products in batches. 
I can't quite figure out the exact rhyme or reason to how each different batch aligns which the denim used, but they are all slight variations.
One of the first offerings was the LF44, then NP01, SO02 (aka NP02,), and SL01 (developed in collaboration with Okamoto Textile Co.).
LF44: 
LF44, aged: 
NP01: 
NP01, 1 year of wear: 
SO02: 
SL01: 
(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog and Instagram)
The last two are more recent releases (late '24), and thus I don't think I've seen any faded photos yet.

As seen above, he also makes a few variations of denim jackets, mostly inspired by WWII models and late 40's type I's.
One interesting aspect of the way he sizes and grades the patterns for his denim jackets is that he does not adjust the body or sleeve length for larger sizes.
He doesn't list the body or sleeve length on product pages, and says that one should be able to size his jackets based on chest and shoulder measurements.
I've seen an Instagram post where he states this is how Levi's used to pattern and size their jackets, but I personally am not sure if this is 100% accurate.
I haven't gotten one of the jackets yet, but I'm hoping to add one in the future.



(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls Instagram and IG user oto_ten)

Alongside his mainline jeans, his most recent undertaking is the XX Grade project.
Focusing on reproducing jeans in the most accurate way possible, down to the materials used. These have only just started to be released, but my understanding is that he has been working with different machinists to recreate the machinery used in creating vintage two prong buttons. This line carries a steep price tag, but I haven't been able to track down a pair myself...yet. 


(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

He also has been working on a line of "vintage aged" denim, assuming this is a similar oxidation process that we've seen from some other makers previously.
This line has yet to be released, but I'm interested in the results once he is ready to release the finished product.

(*Photo credit: Slash Overalls blog)

[Broark]

Been meaning to get this thread started for a little while, was just waiting for my second pair to arrive.
The first pair (which was previously posted in the Unknown JP brands thead), was produced in the later half of '23 using the LF44 denim.
This second pair (which I just received over the weekend) are made using the SO02 denim and are similarly based on a '47.

The one thing that I find very interesting and hard to describe with this jeans is the "three-dimensionality" that you can feel in all the folds where different layers of fabric intersect.
He mentions it often on his blog and Instagram, but there's something about it in person that is very unique.








And here's some comparison shots, I haven't washed the SO02 yet and I've been wearing the LF44 a bit.

[Lorcan]

Awesome. Nice to see the comparison between the different denims.  I have a pair of the jeans on the way that I found on Mercari - I'm hoping they're the same denim as my S06 jacket (which I think is LF44) but I'm not sure.

[Broark]

11 minutes ago, Lorcan said:

Awesome. Nice to see the comparison between the different denims.  I have a pair of the jeans on the way that I found on Mercari - I'm hoping they're the same denim as my S06 jacket (which I think is LF44) but I'm not sure.

Looking forward to seeing them once you get them in. Post some photos and I might be able to help!
Honestly it's pretty hard to track down specific details on each denim since he doesn't directly sell to us international folks.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

Thanks for posting!

How are his patterns? What are the measurements?

[Broark]

28 minutes ago, beautiful_FrEaK said:

How are his patterns? What are the measurements?

Posted the pre and post wash measurements for the LF44 model previously, reposting them below.

LF44
Unwashed
Waist: 38 in.
Front rise: 14 in.
Back rise: 17.75 in. 
Thigh: 14.5 in.
Knee: 11 in.
Hem: 10 in.
Inseam: 32 in. 

Warm soaked for an hour and then a quick trip through the washing machine on cold / gentle cycle.
Waist: 36 in.
Front rise: 13.25 in.
Back rise: 17 in.
Thigh: 14 in.
Knee: 10.5 in.
Hem: 9.5 in.
Inseam: 30 in.

I haven't washed the SO02 yet, but I'll likely get around to it this weekend and will post pre and post wash measurements.
I'll also get around to some fit pics, been recovering from a bug the last few days so I haven't been wearing jeans at all lately. 
I find that I really like the fit of the LF44 pair: ample rise, plenty of room in the legs, accessible front pocket openings. They just feel like a solid pair of jeans.
The LF44 denim feels much more dense and fluffy, while the SO02 feels more irregular (pre-wash, at least) and has a bit more nep (especially on the weft).

[Broark]

Quick fit pics of the LF44 pair, haven't bothered with cuffing them but probably couldn't hurt.

[MJF9]

Nice jeans @Broark

Anyone copping this 😉?  It was shared by a friend

Edited August 8, 2025 by MJF9

[Broark]

30 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Anyone copping this 😉?  It was shared by a friend

I might be careless with my money at times, but I'm not that stupid. 

[beautiful_FrEaK]

42 minutes ago, MJF9 said:

Nice jeans @Broark

Anyone copping this 😉?  It was shared by a friend

From a friend, for a friend 😅

[JohnM]

These look great Broark -- thanks for posting.  Something about his pics and details make these tempting.  Also interesting are his comments about dimensionality.  Reminds me a bit of photography forum discussions regarding 'Leica glow', but I think I get it.  The fit of a pair of jeans is not predicted perfectly by the standard measurements.

[Lorcan]

Unworn/unwashed pair in a size 36, in NP01 denim, popped up on mercari

[Lorcan]

Jeans came in, same dark denim & pink-selvedge line as my jacket - LF44 I believe @Broark?

Seller had washed pretty gently but I needed a fair bit more shrinkage for a size 34 to work, so chucked them in a 40 wash / 1600 rpm spin-cycle and a short run through the dryer on low heat. Definitely brought them to life (making me tempted to give the jacket the same treatment but don't need the shrinkage with it). Fit is good now and not too short in the inseam luckily. Looking through old Mercari listings (trying to gauge what shrinkage other people might have gotten) I spotted the same lot number visible on an older listing for a still raw pair, so I'm actually the third owner it seems 😅.

Some before and after washing (with a day's wearing in):

 

With the jacket (which is tub soaked only). It's the only matching denim tux I own but still doesn't look like it matches 😂. Well at least for now anyway.

 

[Broark]

That does look like the LF44 denim, nice pickup!
I still haven't gotten around to washing my SO02 pair yet, been trying to practice some delayed gratification. I'll wash them once it cools off maybe.

[Broark]

Anyone going to be in Osaka on September 21st?
Slash is releasing a tux at the Samurai shop, he's done these pairs in the past where he uses Samurai's denim and hardware.
Would love a pair, I tried on some of the S2000HX (which I think use the same 15 oz. denim) but talked myself out of them.
Here's a link to the Instagram post, and the Osaka shop has a few other posts referencing the previous releases.

[chicote]

Wow, I’d love a pair of those!

[julian-wolf]

Yeah those look sweet. I’ve always loved how Samurai’s denims age, but their standard cuts & detailing have never spoken to me. If I could get in on this run I probably would

[yung_flynn]

23 hours ago, Broark said:

Would love a pair, I tried on some of the S2000HX (which I think use the same 15 oz. denim) but talked myself out of them.

I actually ended up grabbing a pair of the S2000HX. The vignette about the Slash collaboration made me curious about an Otokogi denim WW2 model and the simplified detailing and cut of the S2000HX looked pretty good (measurements seem very close to Rockets on paper).

I decided that the S2000HX would be far easier to get than the Slash-Samurai collaboration and the Slash inseams that I have seen are far too short for me anyway.

[Broark]

Well if anyone can make it to Osaka on September 21st I've got first dibs. 

The S2000HX are very nice. I think the war details are nice and set them apart from most standard Samurai offerings and the cut is properly wide / straight.

[beautiful_FrEaK]

@Broark Are your bases covered?

[Broark]

@beautiful_FrEaK generally speaking? Yes, I really shouldn't be buying anything right now. 
But in regards to the Samurai collab this weekend, I might actually have someone who can try to get me a pair.
I'll update this thread accordingly once I know for sure, right now tbd.

So far I'm really enjoying my LF44 pair, been wearing them for about two months so far. I'll try to get some photos up soon.
Also, it looks like there will be some updates to the standard production war model according to this blog post.
If I don't land the Samurai pair I'll likely try to get a standard production war model.

[Lorcan]

Will be stoked to see if it comes off with the Samurai model Broark!

1946 SO02 jacket... more pics later when I've given it a wash

[Broark]

Sadly it doesn't look like the Samurai pair is meant to be, but that's okay.
Going to keep wearing my LF44 pair for another month or two, then I'll wash and start wearing the SO02 pair once it's a little cooler.
Your jacket looks great @Lorcan! I'm hoping to get one the next time he releases a size 48 online.

[Lorcan]

Post wash

Machine washed at 40C and 1600rpm spin has encouraged the wrinkling (although I think it would have been pronounced however I washed -it had very puckered seams for a raw jacket to begin with)

Slash's trademark waistband wrinkles

Different, grainier leather patch compared to my other slash jacket. Hasn't stained the surrounding denim like that one did either (that might have also been my fault running it under the tap when enthusiastically handwashing). Note the XXE...

Got a larger size 46. First T-back I've owned.

The Slash pattern grading philosophy in action - it's the same length as my size 42 (which is on top) but wider. Although they had quite different washing regimes so there could be more of a difference.

Proportionally things are slightly different (ie. the yoke is longer on the 46 relative to the overall length). Fit is still good for me but obviously a bit boxier (can fit a sweatshirt nicely). Probably not an ideal brand if you're very tall (30in inseams on the jeans as well).

Thread colour is bit different (slightly more orange on 1946 SO02) but doesn't show in photos easily.

 

[shredwin_206]

@Lorcan could we get a fit shot of the two compared? 

[indigoeagle]

Can you post the measurements?

[Lorcan]

Haha no problem. Slow Saturday here 😛

1946 SO02 S06XX size 46 (40C machine wash/ high spin cycle):

Shoulder to Shoulder: 52cm

Pit to Pit: c 58.5-59cm (stretchier than the other jacket)

Back length (bottom of collar to hem): 57cm flattening the hem wrinkling out, otherwise nearer 56cm

Sleeve length: 55.5cm

 

1947 LF44 S06XX size 42 (Handwash only):

Shoulder to Shoulder: 50.5cm

Pit to Pit: c 57.5cm

Back length (bottom of collar to hem): 56.5cm

Sleeve length: 59cm

According to the website (google translated) the 1946 is:

Quote

The pattern of the Great War and the pattern after the 1947 are mixed, and it has 47 details, but the rough atmosphere of the Great War remains.

So I assume there are slight differences in cut between the two models.

I forgot to measure before washing but going by jackets listed on his site in the same size- I got just under 9% shrinkage in the chest and shoulders. He doesn't list lengths 😂 On his blog he mentions NP01 denim (which the SO02 evolved from/is a tweaked version of) has around 10% shrinkage Vs the LF44 denim having 8%. I've only got maybe 4% shrinkage out of my LF44 jacket soaking/handwashing. Not planning on ever machine washing it but I guess I'll get a little more out with subsequent soaks.

 As for the Slash sizing philosophy.. you do see vintage T-back jackets that are very short lengths eg. https://vintage-mushroom.net/?pid=179335488. On the other hand you do see them a bit longer too like this one https://vintage-mushroom.net/?pid=176487626. The second one has waistband wrinkles that would make the Slash guy happy.

They also have a non-washed (or hand washed?) size 42 with tag size intact (I love Mushroom) with measurements https://vintage-mushroom.net/?pid=181718719

I think he is trying to replicate vintage size grading more than most brands, but maybe cherry picks the vintage sizing examples to fit his taste in pattern too?

[Lorcan]

1947 first / 1946 second

[indigoeagle]

Wow, that is really short. I think, I had seen some on Mercari with 60cm back length.
The 46 is cut also quite small shoulder and chest wise.
Similar to TCB it seems.

 

[indigoeagle]

They both look great on you.
The 46 is super with the wrinkling and puckering.

 But the 42 and 46 sizes look similar, probably due to the hand wash of the 47.