Cone Mills White Oak

[jerrylee]

A lovely bit (40 yards!) of vintage Cone Deeptone denim. Light weight (9-10 ozs?), two to one twill. I know the Deeptone name was used over a few decades, but perhaps a few details might narrow down the dating. The width is 43 inches, and there is 1/2 percent poly in the selvedge.

Great find! If it's not revealing a source, may I ask where you found this denim? Hope you'll post some projects that you make with it!

[Joseph Hill]

It was just a one shot find, so it's not really a source that would be helpful. I'm always sniffing around for good stuff. I'm a junk hound from way back. You've just got to keep at it, nose around and always keep your eyes and ears open. (and keep cash on hand, 'cause if you blink it'll be gone) It'll probably be a while before it finds it's way into any of my projects, as I'm still in the early skill developement stage. And on thinking, if ROY wanted to use some, I would get it to him. It would be hard to say no to that guy.

[PhillyFresh]

Is there a list of brands that use cone mills denim? I bought some Roys but im hesitant as to how these will age and fade, and for $340 Im not sure I wanna gamble.

I was thinking maybe experiment with another brand that uses cone mills and then see if I would like Roys in the future?

[darly900]

^ Cone Mills is a large company and produces many different denims each with varying characteristics there isn't just one type of selvedge denim they produce that all fades the same and it depends on how you wear and wash your jeans as to how they will fade. People get differing fades wearing jeans made from the same denim so you can't accurately predict exactly how they'll turn out.

[Goominim]

How difficult would it be to order a bolt of brown duck, black-line selvedge or any kind of denim from Cone? How about a SuFu group buy?

[jerrylee]

How difficult would it be to order a bolt of brown duck, black-line selvedge or any kind of denim from Cone? How about a SuFu group buy?

Since I mostly make custom and small editions of clothing my yardage requirments are fairly small. I contacted Cone last year in an attempt to buy wholesale and after receieving a fairly dismissive email I wrote back and complained about what I percieved as poor customer service and recieved another email directing me to a list of jobbers that sell Cone denim wholesale. I emailed all of them, two of the emails bounced and one of the jobbers wrote back with yet another dismissive email. I responded that I was in fact serious about buying a large quantity of denim and the jobber wrote back and said that the minimum I could order was 500 yards. in any case I love the idea of a group order if it's possible to get enough people on board to meet a minimum order. Have you checked to see if Pacific Blue or Premium Denim Outlet has the duck fabric? Don't get me wrong, I love Cone's product and it's the only denim I use but I'll skip the jobber run around and go straight to Premium Denim Outlet who have always demonstrated outstanding customer service, but again if someone else managed to get a deal on a managable amount of duck you can count me in!

[Goominim]

jerrylee,

a group buy could be 20 people getting 25 yards each, or 10 getting 50. i think there's enough interest, but it has to go through a single trusted member … and that's a lot of hassle for one dude. i'd be totally stoked, though. would be cheaper to go direct instead of an outlet.

[indigoeagle]

I've heard that Cone won't produce the nice indigo duck anymore.

Any confirmations on this?

[Somar]

@Erk You list on the first post could use an update!

[jiphat]

awsome

[congejunior]

so interesting threads

Precise warp, weft, configuration, and dyeing techniques that were used in the thirties are applied on the making of this fabric.

one of indonesian used cone fabric is seagull studios brand, they choose unsanforized denim 12.5ounce from greensboro, north carolina. the most softest and subtle fabric rather than japanese mills like okayama kaihara etc

Edited December 21, 2012 by congejunior

[erk]

What needs to go up on the list? Tell me and I'll change it.

[Somar]

For now

Noble denim: http://www.nobledenim.com

Railcar Fine Goods: http://www.railcarfinegoods.com

[oranswell]

I got a question for the cone heads here. How much fabric is typically in a roll? I know Roy sources some of his stuff from cone, is that typical or are most of the indie companies working with fabric from cone getting it from someone like premium denim outlet?

In the woolen trade mills deal in a 'piece' which is 60 metres. For weavers in linen and cotton, and particularly in 'narrow goods' aka 'single width' or selvedge denim minimums can be higher, some will sell pieces at 50/60 metres and some will do production runs from 200 metres for instance.

[jo3 b]

Carter's is using a Neppy Cone for a buckle back denim trouser as well as a slimmer 5 pocket style.

We also have a Cone Duck in the traditional orangey tone as well as an indigo one.

They're also a really awesome price now with in store sales

[kiya]

Cone is doing a limited edition book and wanted to use some of my photographs i shot last year while producing the Roy x Cone video. When i went to look for the photos i found a little bit of footage i shot while the video was being shot, thought i'd throw it up on Youtube.

(as always this looks best in HD and full-screen)

Edited April 9, 2013 by kiya

[tvshooter]

it is insanely loud in that room. i loved the way that place smelled too.

[oranswell]

 I believe cone has made an commitment to levis to not sell unsanforized denim to anyone else. I tried to get a custom denim produced but i could bring myself to buy 5000 yards of shiny, flat denim (sanforized).

 

Nope, apart from Roy, Gustin were able to let loomstate from Cone, but didn't use it in the end.  Here's the Gustin unsanforised discussion on reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1oj1w1/who_would_actually_buy_normal_unsanforized_denim/

 

 

10yds of Cone STF on ebay too http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cone-Mills-USA-White-Oak-SHRINK-TO-FIT-Selvage-Denim-Fabric-14-5oz-Textile-10y-/141165502546?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item20de1ea052

Edited January 20, 2014 by oranswell

[kiya]

Nope, apart from Roy, Gustin were able to let loomstate from Cone, but didn't use it in the end.  Here's the Gustin unsanforised discussion on reddit: http://www.reddit.com/r/rawdenim/comments/1oj1w1/who_would_actually_buy_normal_unsanforized_denim/

 

 

10yds of Cone STF on ebay too http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cone-Mills-USA-White-Oak-SHRINK-TO-FIT-Selvage-Denim-Fabric-14-5oz-Textile-10y-/141165502546?pt=US_Fabric&hash=item20de1ea052

 

 

You can BUY loomstate denim from a jobber, aka a broker that deals in 2nd rate fabric or excess fabric.  Any brand can do that, you can do that yourself if you dig around enough.  

What Roy is doing is designing the fabric and buying it directly from Cone Mills, this is something that only Roy and Levi's has ever done.  Any brand or person buying unsanforized Cone fabric outside of Roy and Levi's is buying it from eBay, Craigslist, a jobber, etc..

Edited January 20, 2014 by kiya

[itsbenhere]

I don't understand why anyone would want a pair of Gustins....

[altoclefchris]

I think it's a combination of lack of proper exposure to the denim world and a desire to spend a small amount of money.

[oranswell]

You can BUY loomstate denim from a jobber, aka a broker that deals in 2nd rate fabric or excess fabric.  Any brand can do that, you can do that yourself if you dig around enough.  

What Roy is doing is designing the fabric and buying it directly from Cone Mills, this is something that only Roy and Levi's has ever done.  Any brand or person buying unsanforized Cone fabric outside of Roy and Levi's is buying it from eBay, Craigslist, a jobber, etc..

 

 

AFAIK Cone will sell unsanforised denim directly now, something they did not do in the past. Ruell & Ray had unsanforised as well.  As for seconds, in cloth terms its what a lot of denimheads would like specifically:  irregularity.  I don't buy Roy designing the cloth himself, not for a plain cloth like denim.  You can specify the type of twill weave as in 2x1, 3x1 rht or lht, weight and finishing.  End of the day its the mills job to weave what you want if you have the money, its not rocket science.

 

 

 

I don't understand why anyone would want a pair of Gustins....

 

 

In 1960 a pair of 501s was $6, which is $45 today.  Stan Ray's are $29, decent made in the USA needn't be three digit figures.  Denim started as workwear for ordinary Joes, you appreciate a certain aesthetic, others something else.

Edited January 21, 2014 by oranswell

[itsbenhere]

Maybe, but aren't 501 stf's not that expensive?  Just for giggles I was looking at some gustins and imo run of the mill stfs look way better.

 

Edit: Case in point...

 

 

Edited January 21, 2014 by itsbenhere

[oranswell]

Maybe, but aren't 501 stf's not that expensive?  Just for giggles I was looking at some gustins and imo run of the mill stfs look way better.

 

Regular 501 stfs are not made in the USA.  The made in USA 501s are $180+ from LVC.  As for which looks better you're not really comparing like with like with Gustin as they don't have a long history and most of their stuff isn't old enough to know how it fades and wears.

[jonmhenderson]

Here's my Cone I+W, 15 months, no soak, no wash.

[Paul T]

AFAIK Cone will sell unsanforised denim directly now, something they did not do in the past. Ruell & Ray had unsanforised as well.  As for seconds, in cloth terms its what a lot of denimheads would like specifically:  irregularity.  I don't buy Roy designing the cloth himself, not for a plain cloth like denim.  You can specify the type of twill weave as in 2x1, 3x1 rht or lht, weight and finishing.  End of the day its the mills job to weave what you want if you have the money, its not rocket science.

 

 

 

 

 

In 1960 a pair of 501s was $6, which is $45 today.  Stan Ray's are $29, decent made in the USA needn't be three digit figures.  Denim started as workwear for ordinary Joes, you appreciate a certain aesthetic, others something else.

Roy does design the denim; in essence, he'll specify both yarns and the dye job. That's what we did for the contest Roy x Cone pairs. Those variables, plus the loom, give an infinite variety of looks. Maybe it's not rocket science, but you don't seem to understand it!

[lance]

didn't know where to post this so chose the Cone Denim Mills thread. There is a fine article on RawrDenim today differentiating among the types of looms. It is a basic, very clear explanation with a youtube video showing many of the looms in action - check it out

Edited October 12, 2014 by lance

[Paul T]

I've run a few Cone stories on my blog.

 

Here's perhaps the most denim-nerd story of them all. It's all about the yarns.

[aaronmetcalf]

I've run a few Cone stories on my blog.

 

Here's perhaps the most denim-nerd story of them all. It's all about the yarns.

that was a great read Paul T.  Thanks!

[ColonelAngus]

I don't understand why anyone would want a pair of Gustins....

 

 

I think it's a combination of lack of proper exposure to the denim world and a desire to spend a small amount of money.

 

old responses but I thought I'd share my experiences. Gustin is the gateway denim for those who are new to raw denim, and I would agree with this. I own 4 pairs of Gustin jeans and they're all perfectly fine - 2 are Cone Mills and the other 2 are Japanese denim. When I got into the raw/selvedge denim world I didn't know what I was looking for. It took me 1.5 to 2 yrs to really dial in my fit. When you're new to selvedge denim the idea of spending $200-300 for a pair of jeans is absurd. It doesn't matter what bells and whistles a pair of jeans has, for most people spending that kinda money means you really have to know your fit and what it is that specifically appeals to you in a pair of jeans.

 

I've since graduated to better brands but if someone were to ask which company to buy from to get a taste of raw selvedge denim (without breaking the bank) i'd steer them towards Gustin, that is, if people don't mind waiting. There are plenty of other low cost alternatives out there like Bravestar, N&F, United Stock Dry Goods, etc., but most people don't have an expendable income to drop on a single pair of PBJ's, The Strike Gold or Iron Heart. I've noticed that there are quite a few denim heads who start with Gustin and then move onto better brands once they've educated themselves on what else there is in the market. I have a harder time spending $200-300 on jeans made from Cone Mills denim than from Japanese denim, only because Japanese denim is more interesting to me. I'm talking about the dying techniques and they way they're woven, compared to Cone Mills denim which seems fairly generic.

 

I know i'm preaching to the choir here but just trying to offer some perspective on why some choose Gustin, regardless of your personal feelings on their jeans.