MISTER FREEDOM

[dralfonzo]

ha been waiting for that. have to say I am loving the denim porn on cottons blog I spent a good hour looking at it the other week.

on those boots; I dont own any MF stuff although I do like the look of it. By all accounts the quality is amazing and I can 100% understand how those boots would cost what they do because of development costs and small runs. That said, I have to agree with rnr that just because they are 'justified' in asking that much for the boots, it does not necessarily mean that is there true value

Then again, I know for a fact that I have spent more money on jeans / outerwear in the past that friends think I am clinically insane for doing. As someone said, it all comes down to if you can afford it and like it then fuck what everyone else says...

[rnrswitch]

Cotton duck's website kills for beautifully worn denim pieces, especially the MF stuff. I think some of his worn in stuff looks better than Christophe's.

[zissou]

If I could add my two cents, I don't think there is anyone here who just blindly buys any and all MF pieces. I think I am up to 7 now, and there are plenty that I am just not interested in. But, I don't make a point of saying I don't like a particular piece or it doesn't meet my standards of value. What would be the point in that? It's just stating the obvious that certain things appeal to some enough to pay a premium and not to others. About 98.5% of the world would think that any of us is insane for spending what we do even for just a pair of jeans.

Enough said on my part. I am just going to go back to my reading...

MFSC 7161

[Charlie Delta]

You guys are too fast, was still busy cross posting...

But here is the post anyway, figured it was about time this thread had some pics in it again, heh.

(Note that the colour between all these pictures differs quite a bit, I found it really hard to capture the true colour of the piece. The indigo is super dark blue, but gets lighter because of the salt-&-pepper nature of the fabric. Under certain light the shirt almost seems to be a deep purple.)

Sizing, soaking and shrinkage:

As the fit is similar to the other MFSC shirts I own (a bit roomier throughout than the 645 Utility chambray but smaller than the "Liberty Issue" CPO) I went with my regular raw Large which, after shrinking, ends up exactly as a Medium.

I threw it in the tub with the hottest water from the tap, left it in for about and hour and hung it to dry afterwards.

Soaking softened the fabric up quite a bit as it got rid of excess starch still in the garment.

The shirt fits a little looser than the Utility chambray and easily fits a thermal under it but still looks great worn under a tight sweater.

It is again fairly long but this allows it to be tucked in no problem!

(While typing this I realize I should have included a pictured of how it looks tucked in...)

The curve of the back yoke returns in the clever solution for an elbow reinforcement, as seen below.

Triple stitched throughout the biggest part of the garment

Chainstitch run-off and the fabric's selvedge which is solid indigo, finished with a "salt & pepper" ply yarn ID.

Rayon label with stamped the items name and size. I personally was a bit sad to see the Naval Tailor labels go as they allowed for great customization, might have to add a name tag myself... This picture also shows how dark the collar facing is.

Union ticket and a closer look at the painted metal buttons, here still shiny and new.

[Charlie Delta]

The collar facing vs the buttons facing. While the latter is the same indigo cotton as previously used on the chambray's, the fabric used for the collar is an indigo, 1920's deadstock French popeline that promises to fade down to a purplish black/blue. That second button hole on the tab is actually quite clever as it allows for the shirt to be fully buttoned up without being uncomfortably tight.

The popeline on the button facing, here seen side by side with the facing on my chambray, worn daily since January. The off-white piece of fabric seen on the mechanic shirt serves as reinforcement behind the pocket opening.

Subtly used exposed selvedge on the chest pockets. The offset pocket flap still allows for you to reach into the pocket and get things out,

but prevents things from flying out. Smart!

The button facing popeline returns to reinforce both the buttonhole and the fabric the small white shirt button itself is sewn unto.

The fabric itself, a "light" (roughly 8oz) covert cloth, is also quite something. Developed specifically for MF it was based on a swatch from a 1920's French shop-coat.

Covert cloth has been around since the late 1800's but hardly get's any love these days. It is a twill, but unlike denim which traditionally has an indigo warp and a white weft, covert cloth has a twisted "ply yarn" warp, one of which is white, giving it it's distinct "salt & pepper" look.

The weft is indigo.

Even on this close-up of the fabric it isn't easy to make out, but as the charming knot of "loomchatter" kindly illustrates the weft is indeed all indigo.

This bit of yarn, plucked from a buttonhole clearly shows what exactly is going on with the warp.

Up next: the Riders Dungarees.

[akuma no uta]

TOTAL BEARD WORSHIP!!!! Is the shirt the same material as the pockets for the dungarees? If so it develops a wonderful slubbiness very quickly!

[ThisSunday]

zissou congrats on finally getting your hands on the f&e navy-ism issue. hope you didn't have to spend too much

[zissou]

Thanks. What a great issue! I keep meaning to PM you back about the Real McCoy's book. have you seen it lately?

Fantastic review as always, cotton! Great work on the beard. I had always thought that, on salt and pepper fabric, that both the warp and weft were colored and white threads, but you've cleared that up. Looks delicious.

[Charlie Delta]

Thanks for the comments guys!

Is the shirt the same material as the pockets for the dungarees? If so it develops a wonderful slubbiness very quickly!

I'm guessing you're talking about the lining of the pockets on the dungarees, as the pockets themselves are 11oz 301, but yes indeed, same fabric, and indeed lovely.

[tmadd]

the one thing that's bumming me out the most about this boot discussion is everyone throwing around the words "custom" and "bespoke" when talking about them.

please correct me if i'm wrong, but these boots are not being made for the end users, and therefore are neither custom nor bespoke. if you are trying to say they are custom to Christophe's specifications, then they are no more custom or bespoke than a pair of chuck taylors - someone designed those too.

My apologies for the apparent lack of clarity in the way I used these terms. I wrote the response you are referring to shortly after waking up, and while I certainly meant exactly what I said, I could have been a little more easy to decipher. I also get bummed when people misuse or abuse the terms custom and bespoke, especially for nefarious dollar grabbing purposes...what I was saying, was, that the guy that is actually making the boots is a guy who mostly custom and bespoke work. I have no delusions that this makes the shoes anymore anything than if they were produced in the Whites factory as a limited run, I was merely trying to explain that the actual manufacturing situation for the boots is one that is designed primarily for one offs, and as it would follow, likely charges more for a run of twenty or so boots, than would a place that is designed to make numerous pairs of the same boot.

You are correct that my intention was to say they are essentially custom made to Christophe's specifications. What differentiates these from Chuck Taylors is that the product that reaches end user is being produced by someone who's rates are based on custom shoe making, not scaled production, and thusly for Christophe to make any money, he has to upcharge like any retailer. What I meant to say, is that someone has to decide whether they like the boots enough to pay the price that they could likely have similar boots made to their own specifications (custom boots) by the same guy. That is a high bar to pass, but it is a reasonable, informed and accurate way to assess the pricing of these boots.

Like anything else these boots are only worth it if specific things matter to you. If all that you care about is having a pair of boots that looks good, and is super durable and comfortable, then it probably doesn't make sense to get these over a pair of custom wescos or vibergs. However, if things like character of hide, last shape, toe shape, make an appreciable difference to you, and you like how these are done way better than anything available anywhere else, then you would be a fool to "save money" and buy something you didn't like as much. Inherent worth is a flawed concept anyways, especially for a bunch of guys that spend tons of time on the internet talking about their reasonably priced $250 jeans. They are after all just pants, and what you like about them, or what you see as important characteristics is what makes certain things justifiable.

[Tiro]

Inherent worth is a flawed concept anyways, especially for a bunch of guys that spend tons of time on the internet talking about their reasonably priced $250 jeans. They are after all just pants, and what you like about them, or what you see as important characteristics is what makes certain things justifiable.

so true, so so true!

and we are all in this boat together

[tmadd]

I guess what I miss is the occasional post that says "I don't like this or that piece", that still doesn't have to mean the piece in question isn't well constructed or whatever, it would just illustrate that people aren't blindly liking everything that comes with an MF label on it.

the thing that really had me thinking: "oh yeah, you're paying $50 for the beanie and $90 for the brandname" was the watchcap tho, for the boots it's alot easier to see where the price comes from.

I am all for posts that offer insightful reasons on why people don't like certain pieces, although recently those have caused shitstorms too because the people who have not liked specific pieces have decided to turn there non-interest in a piece of clothing into a grounds for insinuating all sorts of questions about the motive for the design. The other thing that is nuts (at least for me) about this line is the huge difference between seeing a piece online, seeing it in person, and actually trying it on. With a lot of the pieces there is so much going on, both in terms of subtle and not so subtle details that until you have tried the it on its pretty difficult to have accurately assessed the piece as a whole. I know I have been guilty of this before, thinking that a piece wasn't that interesting, or didn't have much going on with it, then trying it on and being blown away on a couple different levels. This isn't to say that trying on the pieces would make anyone want any of the pieces, but I do think it gives someone a much better grasp on what they are actually critiquing.

EDIT: Forgot to give my 2 cents on the beanie...its a deadstock watchcap from the WW2 era, that doesn't make it better or worth more or anything else (other than more musty smelling) than a repro like the rickson watchcap. It does make it vintage and limited and add a bit of whimsy to it, and with certain people being the way they are about vintage stuff, I understand the pricing, but its not for me and doesn't really make a lot of sense in my book unless vintage means something to you. Thing is, in the context of the MF the store, not MFSC, it makes a lot more sense. There are tons of vintage items there, some deadstock, some reappropriated or repurposed or what have you, and while the prices don't necessarily fit my ideas of great value, that has everything to do with my preference for taking something new and making it my own.

[zissou]

^I agree with this. Seeing a photo of a MF piece and seeing it in person are two totally different things. I do not value opinions of MF if it hasn't been seen in person (although I do not make a point of saying that on an individual basis). Even just seeing cotton duck's detailed photos of the Mechanic's shirt has made me understand and appreciate it more... and I had pretty much written off most of the new line (ok, mostly because I don't have the money to buy any of it!).

[akuma no uta]

Haha yeah, so stoked to be able to try a lot of it on and see it in person this weekend at SENY, see if I can figure out a size for the mulhulland master...

[eltopo]

Cotton! Incredible but wouldn't expect less! Thanks for the details and photos.

[glimmertwins]

Thanks, Cotton! That's exactly what I wanted to see. The mechanics shirt was the one piece I was most interested in some better photos of. Wanted to make sure it didn't look like another chambray shirt(have too many of those in my closet). I bet it will age to a thing of beauty.

Hope there are still a few of these around in late January for me to pick - I imagine there is always a run on specific MF items after you post those great photos.

One question to those who have handled this - is it a heavy shirt or is this something that can be worn in the summer too? The Texas sun obliges me to ask. Winter only clothes don't get a lot of play around here.

[Opie]

so true, so so true!

and we are all in this boat together

Yeah, but what a boat!

[Charlie Delta]

I don't know if you've handled the CPO or chambray, I'd say it's somewhere in between those two in weight was well.

Now, I'm not used to Texas summers, but for what it's worth I do plan on wearing my Mechanic shirt during Amsterdam summers and don't think it'll be too heavy. Just with a white tank under it, and unbuttoned if it gets really unbearable.

[mlproject]

(late, but...) amazing post cotton duck!

zissou congrats on finally getting your hands on the f&e navy-ism issue. hope you didn't have to spend too much

what's up with the j crew store selling this for $45!? it's $14.

[glimmertwins]

I don't know if you've handled the CPO or chambray, I'd say it's somewhere in between those two in weight was well.

Now, I'm not used to Texas summers, but for what it's worth I do plan on wearing my Mechanic shirt during Amsterdam summers and don't think it'll be too heavy. Just with a white tank under it, and unbuttoned if it gets really unbearable.

That helps - thanks! I'm actually wearing the CPO now and have handled the chambray.

[ThisSunday]

My copy of Inventory Magazine showed up yesterday. I enjoyed the Mister Freedom feature. I definitely want to make it out to LA soon to check out the shop. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other reason to go to LA right now.

[jake431]

My copy of Inventory Magazine showed up yesterday. I enjoyed the Mister Freedom feature. I definitely want to make it out to LA soon to check out the shop. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other reason to go to LA right now.

Craft. ten char

[rnrswitch]

Craft. ten char

Hollywood trading company on beverly blvd is nice as well. They have some nice workwear shirts.

Rising Sun in pasadena is also pretty nice. You can walk through the factory where their jeans are made behind the store.

[kiya]

My copy of Inventory Magazine showed up yesterday. I enjoyed the Mister Freedom feature. I definitely want to make it out to LA soon to check out the shop. Unfortunately, I can't think of any other reason to go to LA right now.

Chuck's Vintage will make your mind melt.

[jake431]

Chuck's Vintage will make your mind melt.

Oh yeah. What ever happened to that thread?

[kiya]

Oh yeah. What ever happened to that thread?

It was a sponsored thread and therefore had to be paid for.. i'm assuming they stopped paying.

[ThisSunday]

Thanks guys, but I meant I can't think of a reason to go to LA besides to shop

[akuma no uta]

I'm sure there are some fun tomes to be had in LA...

Fucking fedex delivered my CPO to the wrong address today, now I won't get it until tomorrow. Gives me very little soak/dry time before I leave for a trip...

[rnrswitch]

Uhhhh, the weather, the girls. Need I say more.

I have traveled throughout the country and I would like to take this time to say that the hottest chicks are from california (kim kardashian anyone?). I would also like to say that they pay a pretty penny to look that good as well.

[akuma no uta]

In the tub now I can already tell it's going to fit a hell of a lot betterthan the xl