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Denim World Championship - SuFu Division


Max Power

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@Gavatron, you made you're decision before I had a chance to give my opinion. ;-) Bottom line is it's your call. 

 

I was curious about raw chambray as well, as I was considering a chambray shirt too. I think it's just as valid as duck. If you allow any other fabrics other than denim, where do you draw the line? The door has been open to debate. 

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, 'cuz that's entirely possible, but denim, chambray, duck, canvas, etc are types types of fabrics defined by their weaves. Most commonly these fabrics are made with cotton, but not exclusively. Linen is a type of plant fiber, like cotton, and can be woven into any of these fabrics. Denim can and has been woven with multiple combinations of cotton, silk, wool and linen, and who knows what else. Just take a gander at N&F (if you dare...). 

 

To say that chambray isn't a valid fabric option because it's not as heavy as denim or duck isn't a valid argument. There are chambray shirts that are heavier weight than some denim jeans. Typically, chambray is a lighter weight fabric than denim. To say that chambray shouldn't be allowed because it doesn't fade like denim is also an invalid argument. Isn't the point of the comp to see how a garment progresses over 2 years of constant wear, with fading being just one aspect? 

 

Would this shirt not be allowed, just because it's chambray? It's (presumably) raw, sanforized, selvedge, indigo dyed. The fabric is a 1x1 weave with both warp and weft died indigo. How about this shirt

 

Since duck has been allowed, I don't see a problem with chambray also being allowed. These fabrics are all in the same family of historical work wear, and very similar to each other in many ways. And that's where I recommend the line be drawn - denim, duck, chambray (regardless of the actual fiber materials, dying methods, etc). 

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^^^^ I agree 100% with your argument especially when chambray being ruled about because of its weight. you can easily find 6-8oz denim shirts all day. I highly doubt everyone is going to opt for 12-15oz shirts just because they're denim when there are light weight options. Hell we are even allowing a flyweight category for jeans which is the sole base of this contest! But I'm really okay with whatever decision is ruled there is just some really nice chambray shirts out there Haha

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Thank you guys for the comments and the interest in our Artisan-Challenge projekt.

Ruttloff Garments is a one man brand from my hometown Dresden and was founded 2010 by my good friend Johann Ruttloff.
He started from nothing with just a old Textima sewing machine from the East German garment industry.
Over the time Johann get a nice collection of sewing machines, mostly classic modells by Union Special, Juki, Dürkopp and Singer.
Only 4 years later, he is able to make real amazing jeans. They fit great, are well built and have nice details.

Johann makes bespoke Garments, but his focus is on the jeans.

You can find some of his work here.https://de-de.facebook.com/RuttloffGarments

His workshop is located in a old industrial facility, which offers space for many creative people.

 

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I´ll post informations to our Artisan-Challenge project on a regular basis, so stay tuned. Next...pocket fabric.

Edited by straightxedge
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Just registered for the Tux division! haven't decided on what ill be wearing yet. Also may jump into the BWC as i just got a new pair of rough out chippewas!

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I'd be inclined to allow all cotton based fabrics that have a workwear heritage in, so:

  • Denim
  • Duck
  • Chambray
  • Herringbone
  • Hickory
  • Wabash

Denim, Wabash and Hickory are twill weaves, but differ from how they're dyed. Duck and Chambray are plain weaves. And Herringbone has, err, a herringbone weave. :)

 

Chambray would also be a useful option for those of us in warmer climes. I'm now in Melbourne, possibly heading up to Sydney in a few weeks, and wearing a heavy denim shirt or jacket in the summer isn't going to be a fun pastime!

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I'd be inclined to allow all cotton based fabrics that have a workwear heritage in, so:

  • Denim
  • Duck
  • Chambray
  • Herringbone
  • Hickory
  • Wabash

Denim, Wabash and Hickory are twill weaves, but differ from how they're dyed. Duck and Chambray are plain weaves. And Herringbone has, err, a herringbone weave. :)

Isn't Wabash a type fabric that's been printed on top of, after it's been dyed? Is there a weave that's specific to Wabash? 

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@Graeme, I don't personally disagree with you, but I opened it up for debate and the majority of those involved in that debate (here and elsewhere), felt differently.

 

The decision originally to allow duck was mainly due to the amount of companies releasing indigo dyed duck, and I though it would be interesting to give denim a little competition, but extending that competition looks like a no go.

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Stopped in BIG today and saw the indigoxblack linen denim shirt. Oh my is that a nice looking shirt! To bad it's not allowed :(

Edited by itschrisb
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here is a "little" update as today marks the 16th amnesty wear...

still, i didn't figure out how to make use of both of these forums.... doubleposting kinda sucks, but if i don't, i bet, only 1/10 read my DWC-thread (not that i am that bad a sucker for attention honestly...) but the DWC forum doesn't make communication very easy  <_<

its the opposite of "all in one place"!

 

 

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Edited by Blue Nemo
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I stopped by SFNY yesterday to find a pair of jeans and I decided on the Stevenson Overall Co 714 Valencia. 16oz post soak weight putting me in the middleweight category. I have yet to pick my shirt or jacket for the tux division entry.

Here are a couple post soak pictures. I'm very pleased with the fit.

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Nice updates everyone! I have to agree on the forum - it' hard td follow other's updates and the posting takes (me) very long as well. Is there no chance we can simply insert all the codes and post multiple pictures at once? Editing all the -codes off and uploading / inserting every single picture makes posting pretty annoying.

 

(I know how many time you put into this but hope it can improve still).

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Only 16 days?! What do you do in your jeans. Looking good so far!

 

i use my jeans as a towel...

then again, i work at a store, if i don't stand, i sit on my ass doing this and that, or cleaning the salesarea, sometimes kneeling.

and i have a little child, we kick ass on the playgrounds often!

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Guys, the forum has to work in such a way with images because otherwise the bandwidth will be totally eaten, unfortunately we don't have the $'s a month it costs to run something with high bandwidth allowing unlimited size image upload.

 

The forum will be well worth it by the end of the contest when it will be possible to see everyone's denim journeys from start to finish simply by accessing their thread. I agree that from a community aspect a thread like this on an unlimited forum is much easier, but for judging a contest, and seeing who has done what, when, how and with what it is a nightmare.

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To expand that point a little further, when the DWC was first imagined, and I consulted with quite a few people in the denim world who I respect, the same point kept coming back.

 

"How can you believe that you will cover cost when you don't know how many people will join?"

 

Imagine if we had gone balls out and built a forum like this one, at a cost of god knows what and then only 10 people had signed up. It's simply not practical.

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I know I sounded like whining. And I was....

 

 

To stir things up again, Bela alias Hepville Taylor has posted a sneak of his Artisan Challenge Dungarees.

 

From what I can see he uses an indigo dyed herringbone twill....  ^_^

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Any images hosted on another site wouldn't eat bandwidth, but for some reason sites like Photobucket etc.... don't like their image code shared on a wordpress based forum , I have no idea why.

There is a way to do it with the image code but I am not familiar with the technicalities. I see that some posters have figured it out though.

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