Shoes that look better with age...

[percy]

correct. they only make them for yuketen who sell mainly to the japanese market.

[GregNYC]

Wearing these cigar shell chukkas today. Very comfortable!

[fre-co]

Looking good Greg! I finally managed to see them in person along with some of the other cordovan lovelies in the Alden store on Madison. I managed to resist the almost overpowering urge to splash out.

I just heard that my Semi-dress have been shipped to my friend. I'll be getting them in May. Woot!

[GregNYC]

From what I understand metal pegging is not as good as wood pegs. Apparently the metal does not expand/contract with weather conditions and moisture like a wood peg does and this will eventually cause the metal pegs to fall out when a wooden one would not.

Never heard that, but I've also never heard of steel pegs falling out either. They are more like nails and are hammered in. I can think of arguments in favor of metal over wood too, like it lasts longer, resists rot, etc. Collecting Panerai watches and fine watch straps over the years, I have seen leather watch straps shrink and stretch with water, and it's true - the loops holding the strap to the watch tend to expand and get floppy and sloppy with repeated soaking. The degree of expansion is too severe for wood to save the day.

Also, does anybody know of a good place to get a heel replaced/switched on White's Semi Dress? I'd like to put a lower heel with a straight slant/rake instead of the higher curved one that comes with them.

What country/city are you in? I'd look around, and find a cobbler who is proud of how long they've been in business. Who does more repairs than shines. Who has some high-quality leather soles in stock.... They would be the ones I'd entrust a pair of White's to.

[viv1984viv]

MOMA

being suede or nubuck or whatever they probably wont look better with age.

[braid]

viv, i really like those Moma's.

I broke down and bought a pair of Alden 4060's from Shoe Mart.

Check out the obvious stitching screw up on the toe. How does something this obvious make it past inspection?

[Leonard Leroy]

^Fuck. Fuck.

I dropped my cheap CT jodhpurs at B Nelson for a resole. Its 85 bucks for a refurbish and resole with Rendenbach soles. Fucking sole'd.

[RustyRyan]

viv, i really like those Moma's.

I broke down and bought a pair of Alden 4060's from Shoe Mart.

Check out the obvious stitching screw up on the toe. How does something this obvious make it past inspection?

As much as I love Alden, that sort of thing seems all to common...a bit rough around the edges with quality

[Heritage.]

More new arrivals in the store!

Now in stock: White's Semi-Dress in Distressed Roughout, natural (unstained) single leather heels and soles. Copper Hardware

I really dig this semi-dress. Is the roughout leather any less durable in the long run? Seems like it wouldn't deal as well with snow/water/mud.

[skalogre]

As much as I love Alden, that sort of thing seems all to common...a bit rough around the edges with quality

Costs have to be cut somewhere, even if it will be with lax QC. Hope you have contacted them for an exchange, Braidkid.

[Bill2]

I really dig this semi-dress. Is the roughout leather any less durable in the long run? Seems like it wouldn't deal as well with snow/water/mud.

Nope. All of White's Roughout boots are oil tanned leather (in colors: Distressed, Brown and Black). They are the same leather used in the Smoke Jumper Boot, but used Rough-side-out to hide scuffs, scratches etc...

[GregNYC]

viv, i really like those Moma's.

I broke down and bought a pair of Alden 4060's from Shoe Mart.

Check out the obvious stitching screw up on the toe. How does something this obvious make it past inspection?

Shoe Mart's site says you can get a refund if the shoes are in unworn condition. Maybe an exchange as well...

[indigo_junkie]

viv, i really like those Moma's.

I broke down and bought a pair of Alden 4060's from Shoe Mart.

Check out the obvious stitching screw up on the toe. How does something this obvious make it past inspection?

I've seen this sloppy work on their Indy's, but to see them on their cordovans (which is supposed to be 'New England' quality) is making me want them less and less.

[jo3 b]

that's a mean shine.

fre$co i had the same problem when going to the alden shop.

you should have walked down a couple blocks more to brooks brothers to see the black fleece shoes which are apparently made by alden as well, only with 2 times the price tag.

[amlai]

I've seen this sloppy work on their Indy's, but to see them on their cordovans (which is supposed to be 'New England' quality) is making me want them less and less.

I own five pairs of their cordovans, and I have never had anything like that. They're definitely not finished as nicely as my Edward Greens or my bespoke shoes, so I'd say you get what pay for. If you're unhappy with them, I'm pretty sure ShoeMart will replace them, and if not Alden will. Based on everything I've heard, Alden has some of the best customer service in the business.

[braid]

Yes, I plan to return them to Shoe Mart. I just can't imagine how something like this gets outside the Alden factory. Do they think no one will notice or care?

[GregNYC]

Yes, I plan to return them to Shoe Mart. I just can't imagine how something like this gets outside the Alden factory. Do they think no one will notice or care?

One Alden employee told me even he thought their QC isn't always very good....

[Tarmac]

I've seen far worse on Allen Edmonds.

If you paid full price, I would exchange. But something like that on an ebay shoe / discount is perfectly acceptable to me.

[braid]

Thanks guys, I called Shoe Mart and they emailed me a return shipping label. I placed another order so I guess it's sit around and wait another week.

[Tiro]

I was wondering, do any of you guys have any experience with Wesco bee-oil?

I just ordered a 4oz. bottle, but I'm curious, is it similar to mink oil or what?

[jo3 b]

hey-

if i wear a sz 7 in the standard width in aldens, ( the barrie last) does anyone know what size i'd be in allen edmonds? specifically the macneil model.

thanks in advance!

[digups]

Just got these vintage Florsheim Imperials and I love them.

They have the metal v-cleat in the heels but to my surprise the signature 5 nails in the waist aren't there... they could of course have been resoled but I doubt that.

If anyone can enlighten me about the finer details on vintage Florsheim I'd be chuffed.

[Opie]

I don't know jack about that, but that those are just gorgeous! what leather is that?

[digups]

^ Pebbled Calf aka Scotch Grain.

[GregNYC]

Just got these vintage Florsheim Imperials and I love them.

They have the metal v-cleat in the heels but to my surprise the signature 5 nails in the waist aren't there... they could of course have been resoled but I doubt that.

If anyone can enlighten me about the finer details on vintage Florsheim I'd be chuffed.

Great pick-up! I don't have hard facts or anything on the brand. But I know that when I was in the Army (we're talking the mid-70's/Vietnam era) and overseas in Germany and Panama, Florsheims were considered to be the best shoe you could buy from stores. Of course these weren't the same kind super-conscious folks who would have scoured the world for the best bespoke maker. But for everyday folks, you couldn't do better than Florsheim.

Could you take some shots of the shoes themselves, the sole, heel and other stuff?

[digups]

^ They're one beast of a shoe sir.

Could you take some shots of the shoes themselves, the sole, heel and other stuff?

Yeah in fact I was just doing that.

I must say the picture doesn't do their patina justice.

Been looking at vintage longwings for a minute and these seem to be a rare beast.

First of all, after I decided I wanted some dark brown pebbled leather ones it took me a while to find a pair. Lots of black and tan, some cordovan but not these. Also, every US made Florsheim longwing I've seen had the eyestay panel stitched onto the vamp rather than tucked under the brogued panel. And most have 5 nails in the waist. These don't, although they're marked "union made", in the US that is. Finally, they have a blue label inside instead of the usual green one I keep seeing.

I'm by no means an expert on these, so like I said earlier I'd love it if someone could tell me more about them (or US made longwings in general).

Cheers.

[fre-co]

Nice photos and some nice details on them.... not too keen on the long wing style myself but did you se these new old stock ones on the bay?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Florsheim-Imperial-Wingtips-11-5-E-V-Cleats_W0QQitemZ110242833690QQihZ001QQcategoryZ63850QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The sole looks great.

[GregNYC]

Here's a bit of Kenmmor history from StyleForum:

http://www.styleforum.net/archive/index.php/t-47072.html

=======================Tarmac

October 22nd, 2007, 08:15 PM

Among Florsheim Imperials, there are 2 different animals here, one is current and the other is vintage.

Currently sold line Kenmoor is $225 retail and is probably way overpriced. They are not bad shoes, they are still leather lined and double leather full welted soles. But the workmanship and the surface leathers arent that great and they don't make shell cordovan at all, of course. At $225 there are better values out there.

Vintage Kenmoors are a beautiful beast. There is quite a range, my guess is that most of the vintage ones you see on ebay are from the late 60s to the late 80s, I don't think they are much older than that, no matter how old school Leave It To Beaver they look. The most desirable are the Kenmoors with full flat nail heels with V cleat, and 5 nails in the waist. There are other, more recent variations missing either the V cleat or the nails or both, but there are plenty of the every era to go around. Personally I'm a big fan and I think, due to their ubiquity on ebay, they are a great, great value, especially in shell cordovan. I also think the aesthetic is coming back into vogue - see Thom Browne, which is about as bleeding edge as you can get in adult men's fashion.

=========================

[digups]

There we go, I had read that before and I guess it answers some of my questions, thanks. Come to think of it my pair might just be a another model, because the Kenmoors I've seen all have different panelling.

Anyone else think this thread is a bit boot-heavy? While I enjoy seeing them I wouldn't mind if people posted more shoe-shoes. Keep it up.

[fre-co]

It is a boot heavy thread at the moment, I think because it is in superdenim it's quite workwear/boot oriented and dress shoes are a little overlooked. I know Greg has some lovely C&J shoes and Amlai has some stunning shoes, but recenly it's all been white's semi-dress, alden indies and cat's paw soles around here.

Greg how are the superleather indies coming along? any wear on the soles yet? Did you get a chance to stop by Eleven yet? My whites have landed in NYC now and will be coming across the atlantic in a few weeks.