Levi's Vintage Clothing

[airfrogusmc]

So its a miss print 1954 XX501 in the Fall Winter Inside Out catalog?

[prochek]

So its a miss print 1954 XX501 in the Fall Winter Inside Out catalog?

Yes .. and no 1955

[airfrogusmc]

It will be interesting to get the 1915 and 1917 examples side by side - especially once they're washed.

There are so many different opinions on the relative qualities of Cone and Kurabo. Some experts reckon the Cone isn't as good as the japanese fabric - some reckon LVC don't spec the early fabric as carefully (Cone certainly go to great trouble to replicate the different eras of the 501). Not all of them can be right.

I have a pair of the 17s that will be up for first soak in Sept. They're already starting to get some whiskers and combs and its only been a couple of weeks. Very nice denim. Reminds me of the first pair of 1901s I had.

[electrum]

It will be interesting to get the 1915 and 1917 examples side by side - especially once they're washed.

There are so many different opinions on the relative qualities of Cone and Kurabo. Some experts reckon the Cone isn't as good as the japanese fabric - some reckon LVC don't spec the early fabric as carefully (Cone certainly go to great trouble to replicate the different eras of the 501). Not all of them can be right.

I didn't like the Japanese denim (Kurabo?) of my 1873's. It was very flimsy and soft almost like it was pre-washed and the weave was not as tight as my '33 Cone. Although it was natural indigo, the tone was very light which was a turn off too. I think Japanese denim is sometimes over rated, IMO.

Anyway Paul, while searching for info about 20th cent. Levi's denim weights, I ran across the following historic brief about Proximity Cotton Mill that I thought you might find interesting if you haven't seen already:

http://www.proximityhotel.com/history.htm

[electrum]

There's been much talk here about the '55 and '54, yet denim weight is never mentioned. Does anyone know what the denim weight is for those two models?

Thanks,

[erk]

There's been much talk here about the '55 and '54, yet denim weight is never mentioned. Does anyone know what the denim weight is for those two models?

Thanks,

i wouldn't think you would be interested in something like denim weight. thats totally out of character...

[prochek]

1954: 12Oz (12,5oz?) Cone Mill Denim.

1955 differs..I´ve got "the fault edition" that is made of 14oz Kurabo denim. But think the most common is 12 / 12,5Oz Cone Mill.

[Paul T]

Whyat's the fault edition? Tell me more!

The 1873 denim is interesting... I disagree about the weight/rigidity, it was about right given that older jeans were made from lighter denim, but I agree that the model is underwhelming - I wasn't impressed with how it aged, one head honcho in the Levi's design deparmtnet did agree that it wasn't their most successful denim.

Erk, +rep...

All the 55 US repros should have the saame denim, Cone XX50, usually spec'd as 12oz pre-soak.

[prochek]

On the 2 horse patch say 50155-0116 instead 501XX. A miss print back in the 50´s that was picked up in the LVC SS2006. nice 14oz denim.

I hemmed them to short by accident so now they just lying and doing no good

[blm14]

To anyone who didnt notice the blog link above, I wanted to post this (also so that it will be here for posterity):

top row: 1890, 1901, 1915, 1927, 1933, 1937 Left: 1890, 1901, 1915, 1927, 1933, 1937

bottom row: 1944, 1947, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1983 Left: 1944, 1947, 1954, 1966, 1978, 1983

[erk]

the difference between cone and kurabo in texture and tone is very apparent in that first pic of the 1890,1901, and 1915. the kurabo appears to be more vertically streaky while the cone has kind of an overall slub to it. very cool.

I'd like to see a comparison with the 1917 kurabo...or even a comparison of the 1915 cone with the 1917 cone and the 1917 kurabo! I can only wonder what the differences are...

[ChuckO]

swedish blogg but here´s some pictures and stuff from "inside out".

www.mindenim.se

The 1954 from this site confuses me. It doesn't look anywhere near as tapered as the shot on Cultizm and I can't tell how it's different than the '47 or '55.

[erk]

The 1954 from this site confuses me. It doesn't look anywhere near as tapered as the shot on Cultizm and I can't tell how it's different than the '47 or '55.

in the blog he mentions something about the rise being higher than the 1947 but being a tighter fit than the 55. but thats from my awesome google translation.

[ChuckO]

in the blog he mentions something about the rise being higher than the 1947 but being a tighter fit than the 55. but thats from my awesome google translation.

^

Thanks!

This '83 looks like the point at which Levi's fit's went to hell. My '55's are Loose but still fit cool. These look like the modern 505 that just doesn't hang cool.

[ChuckO]

These do look a lot like Brando in "The Wild Ones".

[partytaco]

anyone else have a problem with the how the red tab on the LVC line doesn't fray and curl up like it does on the originals or even the Japanese repros? My girlfriend has worn in deadstock 40's and 60's Levi's and on both the red tab curled up and started to fray within the first month and all on just about all the LVC line jeans no mater how worn the red tab still looks close to new. I am sure it's due to a material change but that along with the lousy denim on the 40's and 50's cuts keep me from buying what I would love...an American made jean.

[electrum]

All the 55 US repros should have the saame denim, Cone XX50, usually spec'd as 12oz pre-soak.

Thanks Paul. I bet that semi-meaty 12oz. denim gives them that vintage biker vibe look/feel? Now I add the '55 to my want list along with '01, '15 and the '20 201 being top priority. What to do -- so many jeans so little time? Btw, if there's anyone interested, I ran across nwot '20 201 "555" tagged 32x34 (33 actual waist) for sale at this Japanese site for 40,800 yen(around400USD) while searching for '20. I'd buy them if were my size, check 'em out very nice:

http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=ja&u=http://www.pavementclothing.jp/%3Fpid%3D12755042&ei=q6PsSZqTMoigM431lNUF&sa=X&oi=translate&resnum=8&ct=result&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dlevi%2527s%2B1920%2B201%2Bjeans%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DN%26start%3D40

[erk]

lousy denim? i've heard people complain about the 47s denim before (which i dont really understand) but I've heard nothing but good in regards to the 44 and 55...

what makes the denim lousy? I like the denim on both of my 47s. and my red tab is beat up, dirty, and semi fraying.

[partytaco]

let me rephrase.....far from accurate. and the red tabs aren't even close. look at any pair of washed vintage...the red tab is always curled and usually fraying. the LVC tabs take forever to fray and don't seem to curl.

lousy denim? i've heard people complain about the 47s denim before (which i dont really understand) but I've heard nothing but good in regards to the 44 and 55...

what makes the denim lousy? I like the denim on both of my 47s. and my red tab is beat up, dirty, and semi fraying.

[erk]

is the denim really that far from accurate? from what paul T says the people at cone are vary dedicated to this process of recreating these denims. After all they are the same company that made the denim in the first place.

could it be that we are lead to believe that japanese repros are more accurate?

I'm not trying to pick a fight or anything, I'm just interested in what it is that makes people believe this. I've never held an original or anything like that, so I can't tell you. In fact the only original i've held was my dad's 1974 type 3 jacket.

also. what's not accurate about the denim?

[airfrogusmc]

The denim on some Japanese denim is its to heavy and to slubby as compared to original Levis. I'm not saying its not great denim, it is, its just not accurate as compared to denim on original Levis. If I'm not mistaken on 501s if the denim was overly streaky on slubby it was rejected because most folks at the time didn't want that type of denim on premium work wear. I've seen RAW original 50s denim on NWT mid 50s 501s laying next to a pair of NWTs 55 501s from a few years back and the weight and texture were very close.

[partytaco]

look at the way the denim fades on any pair of 40 or 50's pair of Levi's and then look at the repros.

for originals

http://www.marvins-jp.com/

for LVC look at the evolution thread or at any of those featured in this thread,

the LVC lack that grainy look when faded that made the pre-sulfer 40's and 50's originals IMO look great. i don't know if this is Cone's fault or whoever they are having indigo dye their yarn.

If you're happy that's all that matters.

[partytaco]

i agree but most are not trying to be accurate repros. I do think that while the denim doesn't have the same hand (it's far too soft because of the Zimbabwe cotton and weave is too loose) i think the color is fairly accurate to the originals same with the warehouse 1000x denim which is even closer IMO...maybe just a little bit too slubby though.

The denim on some Japanese denim is its to heavy and to slubby as compared to original Levis. I'm not saying its not great denim, it is, its just not accurate as compared to denim on original Levis. If I'm not mistaken on 501s if the denim was overly streaky on slubby it was rejected because most folks at the time didn't want that type of denim on premium work wear. I've seen RAW original 50s denim on NWT mid 50s 501s laying next to a pair of NWTs 55 501s from a few years back and the weight and texture were very close.

[partytaco]

one more thing...the yellow and orange stitching on the LVC line doesn't come close to fading down the same way as it does on the originals. not a problem on most japanese repros.

[blm14]

Just soaked the 33s I got from cultizm. VERY nice jeans. They shrank a lot in length - maybe 3ish inches. Lots of bleeding and fit is spot on. Now all I need is some braces

[RRLselvageDenim]

For those of you in Los Angeles, a good place to see some Vintage Levis Originals is a New Store Called "What Comes Around Goes Around" - It's on Cahuenga in Hollywood. The Original store is in SOHO, NYC. Cool place for any Denim affecionado

[erk]

Just soaked the 33s I got from cultizm. VERY nice jeans. They shrank a lot in length - maybe 3ish inches. Lots of bleeding and fit is spot on. Now all I need is some braces

pics or it didnt happen.

[Happy Hooligan]

Just soaked the 33s I got from cultizm. VERY nice jeans. They shrank a lot in length - maybe 3ish inches. Lots of bleeding and fit is spot on. Now all I need is some braces

I"m on day 3 now wearing mine... Love them. the Denim is very stiff and thick. It's my first pair of LVC's that are true to size... I hope they don't shrink too much...

I'm happy with my 33' purchase!

[airfrogusmc]

look at the way the denim fades on any pair of 40 or 50's pair of Levi's and then look at the repros.

for originals

http://www.marvins-jp.com/

for LVC look at the evolution thread or at any of those featured in this thread,

the LVC lack that grainy look when faded that made the pre-sulfer 40's and 50's originals IMO look great. i don't know if this is Cone's fault or whoever they are having indigo dye their yarn.

If you're happy that's all that matters.

Well I thought we were talking about accuracy and I have seen some really good LVC fades. Paul actaully has a pair and compared very nicely to origianls. Paul said he has actually been to Cone and talked with real experts and he has also commented that the some of the new denim they are producing is accurate and from what I've seen to I think he's right. To me he has a good deal of credibility because he has not only written a denim book but has also talked to real experts and seen the archives.

[partytaco]

great fades for sure but they just lack that grainy look/texture that makes the 50's denim so cool. Look at the Marvin's site and take a look at all the late 40's/early 50's pairs and look at the areas that typically don't receive alot of wear like the lower leg and compare that with a similarly worn LVC piece from 47 or 55.